Charl Joubert

Hi! Did you get your voltage up through the update? I sent Deye a WhatsApp a little while ago but they never responded.

Hmmm ja I get you. I think considering both options are only 300w difference then I'll go with the "safer" setup of 13, 13 and 5. The 31 panels are already on my roof so it's just a simple rewire (I say like I know what I'm talking about). Thanks all for helping me think.

Ah I didn't realise that was a factor. Tell me if my thinking is right then... The datasheet tells me that the VoC at 20 degrees is 43.1v - so then 15 would make it 646.5v. How much wiggle room is there!? Between 25 degrees and 5 degrees there's about a 3v difference. Geez I feel like I'm going to have a few spare solar panels... My brian is telling me 13 and 13 with 5 on one MPPT 2. But my heart wants to do 15 and 15 with 1 not connected at all. Doing some napkin maths on the 20 degree Vmp of 36.1... 26 will give me 16219.01w plus... 5 current limited by the inverter at 12.5A giving 2256.25w... That's 18475.26w but is "safe" because 14 of them with that VoC will go up to 603.4v giving me more headroom. If I do 2 x 15 I get 18714.24w but I fly very close to the sun. I don't think 300w difference is worth it. Captain Disillusion tells me to love with my heart and use my brain for everything else. I think I know what should be done. I'll have a chat with my installer. Seems like a nice dude. I hope this won't be too much of a mission to rewire AGAIN. But I think the 4kW gain is worth it.

Been a while since I posted here, all has been good with my system but now in summer I'm encountering a problem. I think for the sake of simplicity I'll speak on only the ONE inverter since I'll basically mirror what I do on the master to the slave. 16 x Solar Panels (CS7N-665): Vmp - 38.5v Imp - 17.25A Pmax - 665W Inverter (Deye 12kVA 3ph): MPPT voltage range - 200v-650v PV Input Current - 26A and 13A (This I understand as to mean 26A max for using the 1st MPPT's 1st string or 13A max per string on the 1st MPPT - this is important because of the Solar panels' voltages) I didn't know this information at first and just trusted my installer. I had all 16 panels on the 1st MPPT 1st string. I was maxing out at 26A quite a lot recently so I felt things weren't correct. I had a different installer come check it out to see why my amps were maxing out (the graph was flat for a large portion of the day) and he basically split it into two strings (one for each MPPT). NOW I'm maxing out at 26A and 13A for most of the day and my wattage is also maxed at 14kW for most of the day. The voltages for each MPPT is sitting at about 190v as well. So the 2nd installer ballanced everything very well... but it's wrong in my opinion. I think the installer should have looked at these numbers before hand and not made assumptoins. But hey, we all make mistakes. My suspicion on BOTH setups is that there's parallelling happening somewhere which makes the amps max out. Now that I've looked up the numbers... of course yes... I can't parallel at ALL because 17.25 x 2 is 34.5... more than the 25.5A the inverter can take. SO if he puts the 16 panels in series (no parallel anywhere) into the 1st string of the 1st MPPT I'll be getting: Max power output: 10644.48W Max power voltage (Vmp): 616V Max power current (Imp): 17.28A Which fits within the parameters of the inverter correct? Have I done my maths right? I've sent a video of my calculations to my new installer and he's going to give it a watch and get back to me, but a 2nd opinion is always welcome.

Did you ever get sorted? On my Deye (basically SunSynk) to my Freedom Won you go from 4 and 5 to 7 and 8. Let me get the exact thing in the manual: And... So you'll connect Pin 4 - 7 and then 5 - 8. Then on the inverter you set your lithium mode to 00 and battery type to Lithium.

I can't find anywhere that says you can, or even should. My only source is talking to someone from Sunsynk by Malibongwe. As for anything that says you shouldn't the only thing I've found is what @P1000 pointed out, and the only reason for it is that the generator and grid could have a frequency conflict which doesn't seem to apply in the case of using it as Aux. My other source is that mine has been fine since Friday (that's four days as of the date of posting). It's actually behaving correctly and nothing out of the ordinary is happening. I promise that if anything DOES explode or go wrong I'll post it here. Ja that makes sense to me too. But as I said, if anything goes wrong I'll post here. It's been fine so far.

Nothing blew up! I can confirm that on this software version you can in fact bridge the two Smart Loads: For a fuller story see this post. The more I thought about it the more it made logical sense. You bridge everything else and the two inverters basically "share" everything, why not the Smart Load as well.

I have an update (spoiler - I "fixed" it). After lots of back and forth we finally came to the conclusion that we had to bridge the Smart Load as well but that was making matters worse whenever a geyser kicked in. Here's what I did, in this order (and yes I followed shut down and start up procedure correctly every time): Physically: Unbridged Smart Load - Still had grid draw. Settings: Made the slave solo and turned off the master - No grid draw. Made the master solo and turned off the slave - No grid draw (this was a surprise). Swapped master and slave in parallel - grid draw. Swapped back to original master and slave paralell config - grid draw. Factory reset (9999) everything and reinstated original parallel - grid draw (but less strangely). At this point I wasn't sure what to think so I added Smart Load settings and schedule back, gave it 60 seconds to kick in, then switched the working mode to Zero Export to CT and SUDDENLY the grid draw went away. I was now angry because I had been switching between CT and Load mode before and it made no difference! I was very scared to actually touch it now that it was correct. BUT I had to rebridge the Smart Load. So I shut everything down, rebridged it, booted it all up, and still... no grid draw. So now I have my two inverters properly parallelled and both supplying Smart Load to my geysers without unecessarily drawing from the grid. Here are some pictures for the curious: Compared to a usual day where grid draw was happening: And here's my software version:

I took a drive to Sunsynk SA. Funny they're about 5 minutes from my house. I spoke with one of their experts. The guy tells me that if I'm going to use the aux port then everything must be paralelled INCLUDING the aux port. So my installer is going to come back at some point and we're going to bridge them and see what happens. I'll report back when the smoke clears

I'd like to share my experience with my aux port (Smart Load). I think that the main reservation behind it is that there's a lack of experience with it in general. Also to wire it up is a proper mission since you have to totally divorce whatever is wired to it from the rest of the house or it causes issues. I've personally had my six geysers put onto Smart Load purely to force them to use the sun and leave my battery alone at night. I think if I wasn't on a parallel system it would work perfectly fine (We still have some kinks to work out and are converting some to gas). I have also sometimes turned on the "On when on grid" function to force it on when I have a lot of guests. For me it's meant the difference between 2kW draw and 20kW draw and my one battery lasts a lot longer at night. I can now even pick and choose which one runs: So for your case I definitely recommend it, but find yourself a brave... no brave is the wrong word... a determined electrician who is willing to do the leg work and wire things correctly. If you so much as share a single neutral it's a bugger up (which we had in my case). The electrician I had actually popped one of my aircons.

I've found the manual with some Google-Fu! HAHA. It's a bit ambiguous. I'm sort of reading between the lines where it says you can't paralell it, but it doesn't say you can't connect it to just one of the inverters. Do they mean to say you can't use it at all when the system is in parallel? That the ports cannot themselves be connected in parallel but one can be used? My installer is also roping in an expert because it is behaving strangely. Just to give you an idea I have one set of geysers connected to slave and another set to master: When the Smart Master breakers are on, it draws from grid. When the Smart Slave breakers are on, it does NOT draw from grid. When BOTH the Smart Slave and Master breakers are on, it still doesn't draw from grid. I have a very large house and I was excited about being able to manage which geysers are being used from one point and stopping them from draining my battery at night. For now it "works" but I don't think it's "correct".

Ah I see. I only have a user manual. But there's no frequencies to be in conflict. It's not being used as a Gen port. Would you mind sending me that manual so I can read further please?

Doesn't work at all?! My geysers are warm though so can you tell me more? I'm not sure I understand what you mean by it "does not work".

Hi, All! I'm having trouble finding wiring diagrams for the smart load function on these Deye inverters. So far as I can tell for two in parallel your battery runs common between them, the AC runs common between them, the outputs run common between them. Is this now the same for smart load? Because I've got the one inverter going to one set of geysers and the other inverter going to another set of geysers. It works but I'm getting some really weird numbers and strange grid draws close to 3kW depending on which ones are active at the time. SMART LOAD, not the non-essential load before someone asks about my CTs HAHA!

Do you mean these readings? Here's master and slave: Quick add up tells me 552w which matches close enough: