Qtin

Good afternoon Tsa
As per SANS 10142:2006 the maximum allowable current for PVC insulated cables in a single phase installation when the cable is enclosed in conduit fixed to a wall or trunking fixed to a wall are as follows. For Multi-Phase the currents are lower.
For GP cable - That is the individual Black, Red, Blue, White, Yellow, Yellow and Green cables which are not bundled together with a second insulation over the individual cores and with 1 solid core or multiple thick strands
1.5 mm2: 17.5A, 2.5 mm2: 24A, 4.0 mm2: 32A, 6.0 mm2: 41A, 10.0 mm2: 57A, 16.0 mm2: 76A, 25.0 mm2: 101A
For Surfix and Twin and Earth  - A cable with more than 1 cores with 1 solid core or multiple thick strands individually insulated with a second insulation over the individual cores
1.5 mm2: 16.5A, 2.5 mm2: 23A, 4.0 mm2: 30A, 6.0 mm2: 38A, 10.0 mm2: 52A, 16.0 mm2: 69A, 25.0 mm2: 90A
The maximum cable operating temperature are not allowed to exceed 70 degree Celsius, if the temperature exceeds 70 degree Celsius a thicker cable must be used.
Cabtyre -A flexible cable with thin strands used for appliances, power tools, extension leads etc are not allowed in a DB.
The gap between the clamp of the MCB and the start of the insulation may not exceed 2mm.
There is also a limit of the number of cables entering or leaving an MCB and that limit is 3.
Another point that is misunderstood is that the MCB protects the cable and not the load supplied by the cable.
If a cable leaving the DB is joined and the cable that is joined is thicker or thinner than the other cable then the MCB must be rated for the thinner cable, for example a gate motor is to be installed and the cable leaving the house is 2.5 mm2 but you cannot get a 2.5 mm2 cable only 1.5 mm2 is available then the MCB must be rated for the 1.5mm2 cable.
Circuits are not allowed to be mixed on the MCB's eg Lights and Socket outlets on the same MCB.
Open spaces in the cover of the DB must be closed off so that you are protected from a electric shock and to keep insects, bugs, spiders, bees and wasps out of the DB.
MCB's must be marked with indelible ink or a proper label which is not easily removed.
If a DB is supplied by another DB then the sub DB and the supplying DB must be properly marked the same way MCB's are marked.
A Switch Dis-connector (isolator) must disconnect both L & N for single phase installations and all P's & N for multi-phase installations.
A 2 pole or 4 pole MCB are not allowed to be used as a switch dis-connector (isolator).
A MCB must trip all P's for multi-phase installations if there is a over current in any of the phases.
An Earth leakage must disconnect both L & N for single phase installations and all P's & N for multi-phase installations
PS CB is short for Miniature Circuit Breaker.

That theory is solid. Precisely how my Solis operates.
Geyser and Oven are the only 2 circuits I classified as non-essential and is wired grid side. All other circuits are on a separate SUB-DB. CT Clamp on incoming grid feed.
Geyser heats up through various ways depending on PV availability. Enough PV and it heats up using solar entirely. Not enough PV it uses a combination of Solar and Battery. Not enough solar and battery (combined), it uses whatever it can from solar, battery and supplements differences from the grid.
If grid is lost, the inverter does not feedback at all to non-essential circuits (by design). For me, that means, Geyser and Oven completely unavailable during grid loss.

Though the battery has a 200A max continuous discharge, in the Solis settings you can still choose not to have the inverter use the full max charge and discharge current and set it to lower levels, which is what I have done within my setup in order to try conserve my battery. Am intending to add another 2 but still will not allow the inverter (using the settings) to draw at maximum for purposes of enabling battery longevity.

What you are saying makes perfect sense.
Here you should take my comments with a pinch of salt - rather take it from someone who actually uses or installs Solis - because I'm just comparing the operation to my Deye hybrid which is the competitor product, and I'm looking through the manual and spec sheets.
But yes, the theory is, with the CT cable/CT coil that comes with the inverter, it should be able to divert solar and battery power to the non-essential devices on the grid port, and that is all controlled by the current-sensing feedback that this CT cable gives to the inverter. It should inject just enough power to the grid port, so that you don't send power past the CT coil and on to the grid. Works well enough on my Deye, but it only works as long as there is power on the grid. The non-essentials like the geyser would then not be backed up by battery.
Regarding the panels, I think you should find an online solar calculator and work out for your location what would be the actual power generated for those panels facing South-West, before installing them, to see if it's worth it. I understand the thinking to make the best of the situation, it's just naturally sub-optimal. I think your best bet would be to take special attention with the choice and layout of the North-West panels, to get the best in terms of efficiency-level of the panel, outer dimensions, Voltage level, etc to squeeze as much as you safely can facing that direction. On good sunny days the 8 panels should still be enough to replenish your battery

@GVC ok cool I see.
Thanks for all the info, much appreciated.

I got this one from LiveStainable. Good price as well.
Eurolux DB Board Plastic Flush TXM-36P – LiveStainable