James 1

Sunsynk was actually not just a middle man They saw a solid product that was not functioning optimally They entered into an agreement with Deye Sunsynk developed their own software and tested it extensively They get Deye to install the Sunsynk software at the Deye factory when the inverter is made It is Deye that has now "caught up" on the Sunsynk software Sunsynk continue to do the research and development Deye manufactures

My main concern is that the council may charge an "availability" fee for those that choose to go fully off grid

It is the software that makes the difference

The last Deye that I installed was 2023 Backfeed simply didn't work as effective as Sunsynk then You could quite easily see it on the screen when non essential loads went on It kind of worked but not as quick to respond as Sunsynk to non essential loads

There is a big gap in the market that the city could be using At peak the city is paying over R 9 a unit to Eskom The city could incentifise it so that everyone with solar could install one more battery and sell the close on 5 units to Eskom at this peak If the city payed say R 6/ unit for peak to the customer selling back, everyone would score It would be worth investing in an extra battery

I did see this before, but no mention of the maximum AC pass through current A very important factor when selecting an inverter Also no mention of it been able to backfeed non essential loads without exporting Also very important

I have also been looking at Solis But can't find enough info What is the maximum AC pass through current? Do they back feed to loads that are not on the inverter like Sunsynk does? I can't find this info on data sheet or on manual

I have not had experience with the newest Deye, but on the older ones definitely a difference between Deye and Sunsynk Deye App sucks Installed both and Sunsynk definitely seems to work better and be more efficient especially back feeding to non essential loads So generally I would choose Sunsynk over Deye same hardware different software As for new model or old model, it will depend on your needs and setup The newer version can take more solar power but if you don't need it then it doesn't matter Also Sunsynk and I presume Deye has an even newer version just landed in SA Wireless CT and one wireless smart switch and can add another 9 smart switches About R 2 k difference in price between newer version and latest version i. e. Version 2 and 3 Voltex is selling all this stuff at close to cost or below cost to get rid of excess stock They bought in to much stuff just before loadshedding ended Speak to the salesman, they will split up those specials so you can get batteries from them and if you want newest inverter you can get elsewhere Workout what the best price for you will be

I am looking for preferably free solar design software. It needs to be able work out roof dimensions and angle and orientation It should also be able to show shading and when the shading will come into effect Basically I want to be able to see solar yield for every month per hour of the day Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Hi Yes on a 60A supply you can only feedback a maximum of 15 Amps Also, for a residential supply, you are not supposed to feedback more than you buy from council At least not get paid for excess This is still something that some people in council seem to be unsure about Then you need to have an AMI meter installed somewhere around R7k but price is supposed to come down This AMI meter must be installed in a 3 phase meter box on the boundary and accessible from the street Depending on your current setup, the cost of installing all of this, it could take between 5 and 10 years to pay back for the AMI meter installation. Maybe even longer

I think that the answer to this is possibly quite a lot simpler than most of you are looking for I suspect that the inverter is just getting to hot and is therefore limiting the amount of solar power coming in I find this quite often in inverters that don't have active cooling or inadequate ventilation

Only managed to get hold of them via email

I am trying to get hold of Sunsynk for a faulty new inverter 0101003589 just goes to voice mail and mail box is full Got sorted Thanks

Some brands of solar wire tend to "stick" to the conduit more than others Can be a problem even on short runs l

In theory, you should have one common earth The earth at your main DB should be the same everywhere The only way to get this is to run an earth wire. On such a size installation, an extra roll of earth wire will be a small cost Just remember that solar wire can be difficult to pull through a conduit Make sure you use an oversized conduit

No It is 1000 volt wire to wire (both have their own insulation) and 600 volt wire to earth Although there is still another layer of plastic before the armouring

My first advice would be to wait 4 to 6 weeks minimum before getting your water tested after having pumped for at least a few hours a day. A lot will depend on your test You could possibly get away from big Blues, but it will depend on the test and what you are wanting to use the water for If you are wanting to use it in the house, how will you sterilize it? If you are going to use a UV filter ( light), then it is recommended to have a 1 micron filter. So you would probably need at least one big blue Most bead, sand, glass or resin filters only go to 5 microns at best

I would use proper solar cables rated at 1500 volts. I would run it in a large conduit 6mm wire should be fine , about 1.6% volt drop

Generally, Sunsynk recommends a 50 mm wire size for 8 kW inverter If the cables are very short and preferably not enclosed in conduit, then it should be fine, but right on the limit. 79 mm or two 35 mm would be better Depending on how you run your wires to the DB and what type of wire you use, on a 50Amp circuit breaker, you should be able to use 10 mm wire without excess volt drop or overloading

You have wired it to the wrong neutral bar

In the case above, a few things to consider Why was both positive and negative fused on the panel side? It is a requirement that if you are running your solar wires in the same conduit, they must be fused on the panel side The fuse rating should be 125% of maximum current. Remember that the fuse is generally to protect the wire, not the panel Why was there a fire and the fuse didn't blow? Fire was most likely started by a loose/bad connection. This will create heat and start burning. In DC much worse than AC And when referring to welding, generally in the low 20 volts, so very little volts needed. You can quite successfully weld with 2 car batteries. You will normally have to even put in a resistor like a piece of bloudraad to limit the current. Don't mix up DC isolaters and DC breakers Most DC isolaters and even AC isolaters are not rated to isolate under full load. But a DC breakers should be able to isolate under a full load. That's what they are there for Personally, as I normally run positive and negative in the same conduit, I use inline fuses from the panels. I then use a double pole fuse with a DC surge arrestor in my DC box (not a combiner box unless using Victron) and I use a double pole DC breakers as my isolaters. Can quite easily just switch off the circuit breaker, before going to the panels and disconnecting MC 4 connectors if I am wanting to make any changes. I don't have to shut down the whole system and remove all loads This is for the average domestic situation

Always a good idea when adding a battery to a long existing battery to set old be batteries to 100% charge for a few hours at least to let them fully balance Then disconnect and do the same with the new battery Then connect them all together All should now be balanced and at 100%

Definitely 0.5 C recommend So definitely can't be called a true 1C Thanks for the reply

Off topic, but I am also looking at the same batteries When 2 connected to a 8 kW Sunsynk inverter, I see that the automatic Inverter BMS data shows Charge current limit 100 A Discharge current limit 100A Does it allow you to change your discharge limit to make use of the full 8 kW of the inverter? These batteries are rated 0.5 C But Data Sheet says max charge and discharge 100 A per battery and peak (2 minutes) 150 A Just wanting to know anyone with experience with Sunsynk batteries I normally use Hubble AM 5 or Pylons Warranty is the same on the Hubble with unlimited cycles But Sunsynk batteries change inverter warranty from 5 years with other makes of batteries to ten years if you use Sunsynk batteries

Sunsynk and Dye don't have similar software. They are physically the exact same inverter, made in the same factory, but with different operating systems Think if Windows 10 and windows 95 Online Sunsynk definitely much better. They also have a 24 hour call center manned by actual engineers. I have used this and it actually works Sunsynk App is good Dye you generally have to go through a third-party like Solar Man More features on Sunsynk But I have heard that repairs are quicker on Dye I had a Sunsynk fail in Cape Town 21 days to repair, but I think that quite a few of those was due to the supplier that I purchased from in Cape Town being slack with the shipping to Johannesburg and back