admiral

@Hannes7212 - what is meant by this line: "Please note that the system as in the single line as provided is a Passive standby UPS utilised as off-grid hybrid SSEG." That is a list of all possible classifications of inverters mixed together in one line?

I'm thinking either a Ritar 105Ah AGM deep cycle, or a Dixon 105Ah deep cycle (flooded). The Dixon may be a bit cheaper than the Ritar.

It looks like you should cut it somehow, but it is not obvious...

I am uncertain how / what I should cut from this expensive battery disconnect to allow 70mm2 cables to be connected. If someone is willing to post a picture of what they'd done that would be great.

This quote was from batteriesonline.co.za - they're associated with Deltec in Paarden Island, and prices are generally quite good. What was your R1850 battery's brand and specs?

Cheap in a 100Ah battery is sadly not very cheap 🙂 Got a quote for a Ritar 100Ah deep cycle AGM @ R2600.

I previously had a 105Ah Deltec High Cycle for my camping fridge, with a 120W panel and CTEK D250S charger to keep it topped up. The battery has recently gone to battery heaven, and I need to replace it with something else now. Any suggestions? A proper deep cycle battery, perhaps?

Ok great, thanks. Will see if I have time to quickly come up with a test.

Thank you kindly 🙂 I did not even think they'd have it.

Where did you buy it?

I am really trying to come up with something elegant here, but just struggling to find hardware. I saw @plonkster's nice earth bars that he used for his battery bus bars, but I've been unable to find anything like that up until now. Is there anything particularly wrong with just screwing the terminals together on an M8 bolt? You are obviously limited in how many connections you can make, but it is quite simple?

Yes, this is a strange question 🙂 The electrician is coming tomorrow to connect the inverter DB to the house DB, and at some stage there will be electricity on the AC IN of the inverter. But, the batteries are not yet in place - still busy with the cables and layout of all the bits and pieces. I do not want to make the 70mm2 cable runs too short! Will the inverter survive if it just has 220v on the AC IN, but nothing else connected to it? I assume, even if it is switched on, it won't do anything?

Yes, it is an armoured cable, and overcurrent protection.

As long as it is safe, I am happy. The only reason I was wondering about this - the inverter is fed by a armoured cable running from the house to the garage. What happens if you somehow pierced this cable?

And struggling to find one. Most are 100mm deep, or worse. I am looking for something that is perhaps 70mm deep - so anything without a door. I am in Cape Town, any suggestions most welcome!

Here is a question that I'd really like an answer to - in my diagram I have the connection to the AC in on my inverter coming from behind the earth leakage of the main house DB. I.e. the inverter's input is "protected" by the main DB earth leakage / RCD. My electrician is saying that the inverter should be running directly from the main switch - i.e. not protected by the main DB's earth leakage / RCD. This is similar to how my house's lights, stove and geyser is wired - i.e. only the plugs are really on the earth leakage / RCD. What is the general consensus about this?

And, if you register a new system after 31 May - what does it cost then?

Great thank you @CarlT I contacted Bussmann as well, and they have confirmed the fuse I initially mentioned is 250Vdc rated. But, it is really important to confirm the fuse(s) you're getting are indeed rated for DC. The arc a DC circuit can make is very impressive, and also impressively scary.

It is unclear to me if you can keep the batteries charged with this setup, with the Solis grid-tied inverter on the Victron output - in case of load shedding or a power outage? It does not seem obviously possible to me, but perhaps there is some kind of Victron magic involved 😄

Yes, in this case I'd like to be more than double sure! And like I said - even the Jean Müller fuses are not clearly marked for DC use (that I could find).

@Coulomb - I agree that is the correct way to go; i.e. to get a fuse with a DC rating. I was just curious as to how the Jean Müller setup (Keto) works with fuses that does not have a clear DC rating - and it is generally suggested as a good battery disconnect on this site. In my case - I bought this fuse: https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7038655 I bought it from a local supplier (Electroparts in Cape Town). It does have a DC rating according to that RS Online site. However, if I search for it on the Bussmann site it does not have a DC rating there? I.e. here: http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/iec-electrical/resources/data-sheets/bus-iec-ds-10164_nh500voltsfuselinks.pdf @SilverNodashi - I think you mentioned somewhere that the NH fuses are ok?

Ok, I agree that is a safe way to look at this. I would like to find the DC rating for the fuses used in the Jean Müller Keto disconnector - these fuses: https://thepowerstore.co.za/products/nh-fuse-link-125a-for-keto-00 It is not on the Powerstore website as far as I can see. I searched for the SKU (N5014607), and got to this page: https://www.jeanmueller.de/produkte/jean/en_GB/1322637050548/NH fuse-link 500V combi indicator M00 GL 125 ISM/PR/N5014607/additionalInfos/index.xhtml#product_tabs There is no information on DC equivalent voltages there. I am truly curious as to what fuse should then be used with the Keto disconnector?

I bought this fuse (and its holder) for my battery fuse and disconnect: https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7038655 It is a Bussmann 125A NH00 size fuse that is rated for 500Vac - if you check the specs for it you will see it is also rated for 250Vdc. Similarly the popular Jean Müller Keto disconnector also uses this NH00 fuses - also a 500Vac fuse, and I can't find its equivalent Vdc rating. So my question is - are all the size NH00 500Vac fuses 250Vdc equivalent?

What is the voltage drop percentage I should be aiming for? I can then try to calculate cross section on amperage. The peak power for this inverter is listed as 5500 watt, but as far as I know this is for a few seconds. If we used peak power for calculating the max current that is a whopping 115 amp, but I think that is a bit crazy?

I am looking at the manual, but I am not sure if they are referring to total cable length, or distance from the batteries? In my case the total cable run (positive and negative combined) would be around 7.5 meter, or 3.75 meter away from the inverter.