coachpotato

Hi Gerrie. I'm a complete novice with this stuff but, from what I read and understood: If you set the charge/discharge values on the inverter to be higher than the BMS levels, then the BMS will use it's own values. If you set the charge/discharge values on the inverter to be lower than the BMS levels, then it charges/discharges at those lower levels and not the higher BMS level as the inverter is only pushing out the lower level. With this in mind, I just copied the BMS values into the Battery Setup page as it doesn't do it automatically. I should have a look at all the BMS values while the batteries are charging, then I would be able to verify it all. I've just been to busy.

SOOOOO, it took a year, due to municipality & architect shenanigans, but I eventually got that "NE facing structure (that could double as an entertainment area)" built and completed. "I am going to put 1 string of 7 panels on that 15 degree roof facing 310 degrees (almost NW) and then 1 string of 7 panels on a new steel structure facing 40 degrees (almost NE)" Tick, and Tick. They are adding a 1m high turbo cowl on top of the chimney, so the heat from the chimney shouldn't be a problem. I changed my geyser element from a standard 3kw to a 2kw Titanium one (as I've had a Geyserwise for a while) and added a third Pylontech US3000C. I updated my Sunsynk firmware. I haven't fiddled with the battery firmware. All in all, it's running very well. I'm happy. I think the NE facing array will help big time with the Winter sun and early morning generation. Next project is changing from electric hob to gas hob.

I see that nobody replied to your post. I haven't actually checked my settings since last year really. "If it aint broke, dun fix it". BUT, with the latest round of load shedding, I added another US3000C, so I have 3 of them now. I also updated my firmware on Friday so my values are different. I don't know if the update changed it, or adding another battery did, or what what.

Will do. From what I remember of the pics you posted in another thread, it looked identical. They replied again and said: "Good day, COM updating, need 30min" It seems like only the COMM changed to e415. The rest stayed the same.

The big boy, 8kw.

How long should the update take? I contacted Sunsynk, supplied the SN for the inverter and logger and I got an email this morning at 07:45 saying "Ok. Updating...Please wait.". All the power on the essential circuit went off (including my fibre router. DOH) but then nothing happened for about 15 minutes. I went and checked everything and noticed that the essential DB Earth Leakage had tripped. So I clicked it back up and added a little CCTV battery backup device to the fibre router (just in case they try again) but I don't think anything updated: COMM: e413 / MCU: 3876 COMM was "e413" when it was installed but I can't remember what MCU was. I emailed them again to query what happened.

To me, just an average Joe, this seems like a bad idea. Putting any type of electrical cabling in metal housing is asking for trouble. If the cable is "nicked" or perished, and it touches the metal, then there could be big problems. It is one massive conductor after all.

It is a big problem for us non DIY'ers because most of us average people don't know any rules or regulations, because we are not in that industry. We put our trust in the solar installer and electrician and we have no way of knowing if it is correct or not. Or if it follows regulations and/or standards. I have a COC from the electrician for the AC side of things. Is there something similar for the DC side of things?

The installer is going to redo the trunking next week.

Sorry I forgot that the 56 degree from that solar handbook, is the top angle, no the bottom angle - which is the actual pitch of the roof. So when that solar handbook calculator says 56 degrees degrees is optimal, they actually mean 34 degrees pitch.

The main roof is at a 15 degree angle and the new steel structure will be 20 degrees. I'm still waiting for the architects to design that. I just decided to use the angles I have available instead of trying to optimise it to the perfect angle, for maybe 20 extra kw over the whole year.

Thanks a lot. It's going to be an interesting conversation with the installer in the morning.

THanks @Vassen @Achmat @YellowTapemeasure Oh fok. So is it a big deal? I will need to ask them to change it. The cables also go through the same hole in the wall. Is this an issue as well? I will take a pic of the panels tomorrow.

So I'm up and running. 8kw Sunsynk + 2 x US3000C + 7 x 455w JA Solar Mono (single string on the main roof facing NW). The other 7 panels are going on a new structure facing NE - but awaiting design from architect. I've been trying to read all the info about the Pylons on this forum, and it is a lot to take in and understand. , 1.) Charge Amps are set to 40A and should be 74A? 2.) Float V looks higher than all the discussions I found on search (e.g. from @Coulomb @Vassen) . My understanding is it should be lower? 3.) Are the Absorption V and Equalization V correct? 4.) The Battery Voltage at 100% SOC was only 51.48V.

I'm torn with the monitoring... I just want something neat and tidy in the DB that doesn't have cables all over the show. I've checked OEM emonTx, Iotawatt, etc. They need extra plug in adapters. The Shelly looks cool but I don't want the relay part of it. I'm not interested in switching. I wish they made a Shelly PM with no switching. These "63A 1P Smart Circuit Breaker with monitoring - eWelink" look interesting but they like R700 each. But then I think there will be a lot of interference in that DB with so many things trying to connect to WIFI. I assume it would be the same with lots of Shelly's in the there too. CBI Nanoview might just be the neatest solution. And then forgo the cloud monitoring.

Cool thanks. I will find out.

The guys were allowed clean and prep back in 2017. I got quotes from 3 large independent licensed asbestos contractors back then. Wilcote are (maybe WAS now with new regulations) a national asbestos contractor. Asbestos Abatement Regulations - 10 November 2020 No. 43893 - These regulations repealed the 2001 regulations. A lot of people are recommending these. I must do some research, thanks.

Hmm. And I just received my two shiny new US3000C. Thanks for the heads up.

When it rains it pours... My house has an asbestos roof (like thousands of other houses, schools, hospitals, etc.) and I got Wilcote in to refurbish it 4 years ago. I was told that it would now last for a very long time and their products have a 10 year guarantee. Well, the paint has thinned and lichen is growing through. I emailed pictures and called them and now they say that the government changed the asbestos regulations in NOV 2020 and they can no longer clean or prepare the roof. Government is trying to eradicate it. I said it looks like they didn't clean and prepare it properly and what happens now with the 10 year guarantee. He chuckled and said that there was no way, at that time, of them knowing the regulations would change and that they are not allowed to clean or prep so there isn't anything they can do. It might require a new roof. So I have to decide if I want to attempt another encapsulation process with a different company (that has a license for the new regulations) or replace the whole dam thing. 160m2. It is going to be dam expensive. Sigh. I've bought a 8kw Sunsynk and 2 x US3000C and paid the deposit for the panels and install. It is all going to just sit there, gathering dust, waiting until the roof situation is sorted.

Ma se chops! Ok cool. Maybe I'll leave it alone for now. Thanks for the heads up.

It's too much of a mission, and I have limited space so it will be flat on the roof. The place I bought is +-45 years old so the old plans I was given, don't indicate the roof pitch. I got into the roof and worked it out, a healthy 15 degrees... It's dam low. You have to crawl around in there. So I am going to put 1 string of 7 panels on that 15 degree roof facing 310 degrees (almost NW) and then 1 string of 7 panels on a new steel structure facing 40 degrees (almost NE). But, I'm not sure what the best pitch is for the new steel structure. PVWatts tells me 25 degrees gets me more power over the year than 20 and 30. With those two strings, I should get a nice even spread of power throughout the day, from early morning to late afternoon. If I understand it correctly. And I can add on to both strings at a later stage as well. I want to try build something like this, facing NE:

Thanks a lot for all the information everyone. You've convinced me, I'm going with the 8kw unit. I have a GrainFather as well, so I don't want my brew day being screwed up

Hi Achmat, Thanks very much. Awesome. Living on the south coast means LOTS of wind. But I was told the turbines are dam noisy. Is your geyser on the aux output and not using battery power? e.g. Night time or Eskom is down. Maybe I should just cough up for the 8kw and do something like that.

Ah, I forgot that the SolarElectricityHandbook.com Solar Irradiance calculator said my panels should be at 56 degrees for "Optimal Year Round" irradiance. If I build a carport type structure for the panels (which doubles as entertainment area) then that is one hell of a pitch on the roof. It would look better to have a flat roof and then just mount the panels at an angle?

Good evening all, I'm new to the crazy world that is solar. I'm looking at getting my first system installed and my word, there is a k@k load to learn. - I stay on the south coast in the EC - I have an asbestos roof that faces approximately NW and SE. It is a very low pitch, I would guess below 20. The old building plans I found don't indicate what it is. - I have a large rear garden where I could build a NE facing structure (that could double as an entertainment area). The wall is 8.8m across and there is about 18m of grass to the shed. I can't go too close to the shed because the neighbors have a huge tree there that would block the low winter sun. - we use about 26 units a day - 0.75kw pool pump running 10 hours a day - 150L kwikot geyser is outside and on a Geyserwise. Running 6am - 9am and 6pm - 8pm and set to 60 C. - 0.75kw DAB water pump pushing water form tanks into the house. - home office running about 200W 14 hours a day. - lots of LED lights. a gate motor, security alarm, etc. After checking what some friends have installed (all have Goodwe), and how they using their systems, I'm leaning towards: - 12 x JA Solar 455W Mono MBB Percium Half-Cell Silver Frame MC4 - 2 or 3 x Pylontech US3000C 3.5kWh - Sunsynk 5kW Hybrid Inverter I'll split the house on essential and non essential circuits. Essential would be home office, all lights, fridge, alarm, gate motor, water pump that get used day and night. Non essential would be all plugs, geyser, pool, oven, stove, dishwasher, washing machine, etc. I hoping that there is excess solar, then it can be used on the non essential circuit when the sun is shining. 1. Do you think that the system above would work nicely? 2. I assume the non essential circuit must still go through the inverter if I want excess solar to go into it? This would mean that I need the 8kw Sunsync? 3. If Eskom goes down, would the solar still be producing power or does it kick over to batteries? 4. I can get one of those Geyserwise Titanium PTC elements if it would make a difference? It is just 2 and a half people showering every day, and washing dishes once a day. Your opinions would be greatly appreciated. If I'm way off, please let me know. P.S. I still don't understand the neutral / live bonding thing on the Sunsync/inverters. That is a story for another day... I need excess brain power for that.