coachpotato

Hi Gerrie. I'm a complete novice with this stuff but, from what I read and understood: If you set the charge/discharge values on the inverter to be higher than the BMS levels, then the BMS will use it's own values. If you set the charge/discharge values on the inverter to be lower than the BMS levels, then it charges/discharges at those lower levels and not the higher BMS level as the inverter is only pushing out the lower level. With this in mind, I just copied the BMS values into the Battery Setup page as it doesn't do it automatically. I should have a look at all the BMS values while the batteries are charging, then I would be able to verify it all. I've just been to busy.

SOOOOO, it took a year, due to municipality & architect shenanigans, but I eventually got that "NE facing structure (that could double as an entertainment area)" built and completed. "I am going to put 1 string of 7 panels on that 15 degree roof facing 310 degrees (almost NW) and then 1 string of 7 panels on a new steel structure facing 40 degrees (almost NE)" Tick, and Tick. They are adding a 1m high turbo cowl on top of the chimney, so the heat from the chimney shouldn't be a problem. I changed my geyser element from a standard 3kw to a 2kw Titanium one (as I've had a Geyserwise for a while) and added a third Pylontech US3000C. I updated my Sunsynk firmware. I haven't fiddled with the battery firmware. All in all, it's running very well. I'm happy. I think the NE facing array will help big time with the Winter sun and early morning generation. Next project is changing from electric hob to gas hob.

I see that nobody replied to your post. I haven't actually checked my settings since last year really. "If it aint broke, dun fix it". BUT, with the latest round of load shedding, I added another US3000C, so I have 3 of them now. I also updated my firmware on Friday so my values are different. I don't know if the update changed it, or adding another battery did, or what what.

Will do. From what I remember of the pics you posted in another thread, it looked identical. They replied again and said: "Good day, COM updating, need 30min" It seems like only the COMM changed to e415. The rest stayed the same.

The big boy, 8kw.

How long should the update take? I contacted Sunsynk, supplied the SN for the inverter and logger and I got an email this morning at 07:45 saying "Ok. Updating...Please wait.". All the power on the essential circuit went off (including my fibre router. DOH) but then nothing happened for about 15 minutes. I went and checked everything and noticed that the essential DB Earth Leakage had tripped. So I clicked it back up and added a little CCTV battery backup device to the fibre router (just in case they try again) but I don't think anything updated: COMM: e413 / MCU: 3876 COMM was "e413" when it was installed but I can't remember what MCU was. I emailed them again to query what happened.

To me, just an average Joe, this seems like a bad idea. Putting any type of electrical cabling in metal housing is asking for trouble. If the cable is "nicked" or perished, and it touches the metal, then there could be big problems. It is one massive conductor after all.

It is a big problem for us non DIY'ers because most of us average people don't know any rules or regulations, because we are not in that industry. We put our trust in the solar installer and electrician and we have no way of knowing if it is correct or not. Or if it follows regulations and/or standards. I have a COC from the electrician for the AC side of things. Is there something similar for the DC side of things?

The installer is going to redo the trunking next week.

Sorry I forgot that the 56 degree from that solar handbook, is the top angle, no the bottom angle - which is the actual pitch of the roof. So when that solar handbook calculator says 56 degrees degrees is optimal, they actually mean 34 degrees pitch.

The main roof is at a 15 degree angle and the new steel structure will be 20 degrees. I'm still waiting for the architects to design that. I just decided to use the angles I have available instead of trying to optimise it to the perfect angle, for maybe 20 extra kw over the whole year.

Thanks a lot. It's going to be an interesting conversation with the installer in the morning.

THanks @Vassen @Achmat @YellowTapemeasure Oh fok. So is it a big deal? I will need to ask them to change it. The cables also go through the same hole in the wall. Is this an issue as well? I will take a pic of the panels tomorrow.

So I'm up and running. 🥳 8kw Sunsynk + 2 x US3000C + 7 x 455w JA Solar Mono (single string on the main roof facing NW). The other 7 panels are going on a new structure facing NE - but awaiting design from architect. I've been trying to read all the info about the Pylons on this forum, and it is a lot to take in and understand. , 1.) Charge Amps are set to 40A and should be 74A? 2.) Float V looks higher than all the discussions I found on search (e.g. from @Coulomb @Vassen) . My understanding is it should be lower? 3.) Are the Absorption V and Equalization V correct? 4.) The Battery Voltage at 100% SOC was only 51.48V.

I'm torn with the monitoring... I just want something neat and tidy in the DB that doesn't have cables all over the show. I've checked OEM emonTx, Iotawatt, etc. They need extra plug in adapters. The Shelly looks cool but I don't want the relay part of it. I'm not interested in switching. I wish they made a Shelly PM with no switching. These "63A 1P Smart Circuit Breaker with monitoring - eWelink" look interesting but they like R700 each. But then I think there will be a lot of interference in that DB with so many things trying to connect to WIFI. I assume it would be the same with lots of Shelly's in the there too. CBI Nanoview might just be the neatest solution. And then forgo the cloud monitoring.