coachpotato

Hi Gerrie. I'm a complete novice with this stuff but, from what I read and understood:
If you set the charge/discharge values on the inverter to be higher than the BMS levels, then the BMS will use it's own values.
If you set the charge/discharge values on the inverter to be lower than the BMS levels, then it charges/discharges at those lower levels and not the higher BMS level as the inverter is only pushing out the lower level.
With this in mind, I just copied the BMS values into the Battery Setup page as it doesn't do it automatically. 
I should have a look at all the BMS values while the batteries are charging, then I would be able to verify it all. I've just been to busy.

SOOOOO, it took a year, due to municipality & architect shenanigans, but I eventually got that "NE facing structure (that could double as an entertainment area)" built and completed. 
"I am going to put 1 string of 7 panels on that 15 degree roof facing 310 degrees (almost NW) and then 1 string of 7 panels on a new steel structure facing 40 degrees (almost NE)"
Tick, and Tick. They are adding a 1m high turbo cowl on top of the chimney, so the heat from the chimney shouldn't be a problem.
I changed my geyser element from a standard 3kw to a 2kw Titanium one (as I've had a Geyserwise for a while) and added a third Pylontech US3000C.
I updated my Sunsynk firmware. I haven't fiddled with the battery firmware.
All in all, it's running very well. I'm happy.
I think the NE facing array will help big time with the Winter sun and early morning generation.
Next project is changing from electric hob to gas hob. 

I see that nobody replied to your post. 
I haven't actually checked my settings since last year really. "If it aint broke, dun fix it". BUT, with the latest round of load shedding, I added another US3000C, so I have 3 of them now. I also updated my firmware on Friday so my values are different. I don't know if the update changed it, or adding another battery did, or what what.

Let me just rant a bit here.  Because a lot of the guys who CAN issues CoCs shouldn't.  Or they issue it for things that are outside their wheel house.  My partner works in the building industry as a professional engineer for the HVAC and wet services side.  Granted electrical isn't the area she signs for, but the problem is wide.
As an engineer you design a system and the installer that issues the CoC should follow the instructions to the T.  Engineers are designers and installers are doers.  Whenever the installer deviates you are screwing a system that was built using very specialized calculations and was approved by the local municipality.  If it sounds elitist, it is only because you haven't been on the other side.  The software and calculations involved are super expensive and have years of study behind them (ie. thermodynamics for liquid based services).
The electrical industry is different here, there are not professional engineers that sign for electrical installs.  Probably because electrical is so old.  But this is, in my opinion, why every yahoo installs it their own way.  A solar install shouldn't be designed by an electrician.  The overall design should be done by a competent engineer.  If they copy that design for multiple install sites, fair enough.  But electricians are following guidelines, they lack a significant amount of theory you get when doing a degree.  The problem with electricians doing the design is, they don't know what they don't know.  They know the regs and nothing more.  So if a safety device should be there but it isn't mentioned in the current version of the regs, well it isn't even going to get considered.
CoC covers the entire installation of the house.  Unless the CoC was only issued for a part of the install. A CoC is about covering the electrical install of a home.  The same happens for a Geyser (also need a CoC there).

To me, just an average Joe, this seems like a bad idea. Putting any type of electrical cabling in metal housing is asking for trouble. If the cable is "nicked" or perished, and it touches the metal, then there could be big problems. It is one massive conductor after all.

I deal with this crap on a daily basis ... the problem in the electrcial industry is not the standards (they change all the time to attempt to create a safer environment for YOU) ... its the customer support ... no policing in the industry ... it seems we dont have enough suitably qualified people working in the DOL to investigate illegal installtations ... another issue ... you as the customer have to file a complaint ... then pay for the investigation ... then get quotes to get the installation bought up to standard ... pay for it to be done ... then claim all the costs from the contractor who did the illegal installation ( I wish you luck with that ... you gonna need it)
To clear up something else  ... yes YOU as the customer are responsible for the electrical installation on your property ... it is your responsibilty to employ the services of a sutiably qualified person/company to carry out work on your property ... if you want to DIY ... and break the rules or get someone to sign over the project on completion without even following the progress ... or advising you of the correct proceedures ... its all on YOU. 
I know of installations which have been signed off without the inspector even visitng the site ... then people cry when the insurnace company rejects claims ... It is not pleasant when you get called out to an investigation where a 2 year old child is dead because some clever dick decided ... disconnecting his stove DIY ... leaving the wires exposed ... was a cheaper option.
I went to a fire where fortunately the aircon exploded and blew out across the room and hit the kitchen cupboard ... waking up the eperson who was asleep in the  granny flat... it pretty much saved her life ... the building was guttered ... until it happens to you or you see the result of your actions ... rules and regs are not that important
Now with every man and his dog being experts in this field ... it just makes it that much worse. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Yes I said that. You're not the guy putting words into my mouth and attacking on the basis of me adhering to some imagined ideology. 
And I stand by that. It costs City Power money to maintain a connection to my house, but they don't get much payment for it. It would be ridiculous of me to assert that I'm subsidising somebody else. 
This may depend on where you live. In the area supplied by City Power, post paid customers have had that network charge for a decade or more. Now I didn't like it and I was happy to say goodbye to it when I switched to prepaid. But I understand why it's there. It costs the city the same to provide a 60a single phase connection to any house, irrespective of how much they consume. I acknowledge that, because it is so. 
If we have some other supply and are satisfied that we are self sufficient then the remedy is simple. 
If, like me, you think that well, maybe one day I'll need a bit from the grid then you need that connection and somebody has to cover the cost of keeping it in good working order. 
I'm happy to be in my present situation, BUT I can see the provider's POV as well. 
Yes.  But OK. Forget it's Eskom (a word guaranteed to spoil the mood at any dinner party). Suppose it's BobVolt, a private company, supplying to Jhb. What do you think they will do if consumption drops but they bear the same burden of maintaining infrastructure? They will do the only thing they can do - increase prices. 
I do think the press have been mischievous here. They are inventing the notion that Eskom are punishing those of us with solar panels, ignoring the other factors that you mention. 
Eskom are merely trying to split the bill into a fixed component for having a connection and a charge per for usage and they are wanting to do that for all users. It may have the affect of increasing bills for solar users in some areas, but I don't see anything to suggest that that is their motive, that they are being vengeful. 
 
Maybe. Eskom should be able to provide data to support that claim. This should be the least arguable part of their proposition. If they can show the duck curve then that argument is over and the debate moves to what should be done about it.
They will get asked about this, and if the data isn't there then they have a considerable amount of egg on their face. So I would expect that they have the data. They also appeal nearly every day for a reduction of use between 17:00 and 21:00. You may not be causing that, and I am pretty sure that I'm not because 5pm is about when my batteries start discharging. That doesn't mean it isn't happening. 
 
Well see above, who said it's all? What you say is the case for hybrid systems, but solar doesn't have to be hybrid. 
I agree on that solution, but doing it requires lots of land and lots of outlay and a technology other than the batteries we have right now which will need replacing at regular intervals. 

The main roof is at a 15 degree angle and the new steel structure will be 20 degrees. I'm still waiting for the architects to design that.
I just decided to use the angles I have available instead of trying to optimise it to the perfect angle, for maybe 20 extra kw over the whole year.

The installer is going to redo the trunking next week. 

The main roof is at a 15 degree angle and the new steel structure will be 20 degrees. I'm still waiting for the architects to design that.
I just decided to use the angles I have available instead of trying to optimise it to the perfect angle, for maybe 20 extra kw over the whole year.

That's a cool install, congratulations. Agreed with @vassen on the separation of AC and DC circuits though.
The pics are never complete if we do not get to see the solar panels, please consider posting a few pics of those 455W Bad Boys? 😍

My bms shows 53.5 volts at 100 % SOC, @coachpotatoshows 51.5 volts also using Pylontechs, any ideas why the bms on the same battery manufacturer would differ

So I'm up and running. 🥳
8kw Sunsynk + 2 x US3000C + 7 x 455w JA Solar Mono (single string on the main roof facing NW). The other 7 panels are going on a new structure facing NE - but awaiting design from architect.
I've been trying to read all the info about the Pylons on this forum, and it is a lot to take in and understand. ,
1.)  Charge Amps are set to 40A and should be 74A?
2.) Float V looks higher than all the discussions I found on search (e.g. from @Coulomb @Vassen) . My understanding is it should be lower?
3.) Are the Absorption V and Equalization V correct? 
4.) The Battery Voltage at 100% SOC was only 51.48V. 

Nice. 
First thing you should do is request an update if you are not yet on the latest version. 
You don't need to bother with 1 to 4 as the BMS overrides the settings in the invert. 
On the first pic it does that the BMS is limiting charge and discharge currents. 
Welcome to the sunsynk club. 

If only the Tesla Solar Roof were available in SA, and cost effective, you'd be an ideal candidate.

When it rains it pours...
My house has an asbestos roof (like thousands of other houses, schools, hospitals, etc.) and I got Wilcote in to refurbish it 4 years ago. I was told that it would now last for a very long time and their products have a 10 year guarantee.
Well, the paint has thinned and lichen is growing through. I emailed pictures and called them and now they say that the government changed the asbestos regulations in NOV 2020 and they can no longer clean or prepare the roof. Government is trying to eradicate it.
I said it looks like they didn't clean and prepare it properly and what happens now with the 10 year guarantee. He chuckled and said that there was no way, at that time, of them knowing the regulations would change and that they are not allowed to clean or prep so there isn't anything they can do. It might require a new roof. 
So I have to decide if I want to attempt another encapsulation process with a different company (that has a license for the new regulations) or replace the whole dam thing. 160m2. It is going to be dam expensive. Sigh.
I've bought a 8kw Sunsynk and 2 x US3000C and paid the deposit for the panels and install. It is all going to just sit there, gathering dust, waiting until the roof situation is sorted.
 

4. I can get one of those Geyserwise Titanium PTC elements if it would make a difference? It is just 2 and a half people showering every day, and washing dishes once a day.
 
Ive changed out my x2 geyser elements (3kw each) with 1,5 kw . Works perfect . Company in Cape Town (Montigue Gardens) can make it up for you. Paid R 400  for both..  Abso Industries ( absoheating.co.za). Speak to Bobby the owner . 021 552 7303
You cannot go wrong with the JA panels . x12 on my roof.. Very happy.. 

Thanks a lot for all the information everyone.
You've convinced me, I'm going with the 8kw unit.
I have a GrainFather as well, so I don't want my brew day being screwed up 😀 
 
 

It's too much of a mission, and I have limited space so it will be flat on the roof. 
 
The place I bought is +-45 years old so the old plans I was given, don't indicate the roof pitch. I got into the roof and worked it out, a healthy 15 degrees... It's dam low. You have to crawl around in there.
So I am going to put 1 string of 7 panels on that 15 degree roof facing 310 degrees (almost NW) and then 1 string of 7 panels on a new steel structure facing 40 degrees (almost NE). But, I'm not sure what the best pitch is for the new steel structure. PVWatts tells me 25 degrees gets me more power over the year than 20 and 30.
With those two strings, I should get a nice even spread of power throughout the day, from early morning to late afternoon. If I understand it correctly. And I can add on to both strings at a later stage as well.
I want to try build something like this, facing NE:

Remember that you would need huge gaps between the rows to stop them shading each other when the sun is low.

I have everything on the essential load including the geyser but also have an evacuated tube solar geyser so hardly use the internal element but could run it from batteries if Eskom is down and there is not enough solar generation. 
If you can you should go for the 8kw unit. 

My suggestion would be to rather save the little extra and go for the 8kw unit.  This provides you with more flexibility on both the load and PV side for future.

Hi and welcome to the world of solar.
1. It should work perfectly 
2. The sunsynk had 3 connection. The first is the grid connection. This is both an input and output meaning that when you have excess solar you can push back on this connection to loads before the inverter. Downside is that these loads will not get power of the grid is down. 
The second is your primary or essential load output. 
The third is the aux output which can be configured as a second non essential load or it can be used as an input for a generator, wind turbine or another micro inverter. 
3. During the day of Eskom hours down it will still use Solar first before going to batteries. 
4. No idea about these and if they make any difference. I have a normal 4kw element in my geyser and it's connected to the inverter. I have the 8kw sunsynk with my whole house running from it. No splitting to essential and non essential. 
Regarding the neutral earth bond. I have not done it with my sunsynk and have not had any issues. Its not compulsory and only needed if you have a floating neutral when the grid goes down. 

Good evening all,
I'm new to the crazy world that is solar. I'm looking at getting my first system installed and my word, there is a k@k load to learn.
- I stay on the south coast in the EC
- I have an asbestos roof that faces approximately NW and SE. It is a very low pitch, I would guess below 20. The old building plans I found don't indicate what it is.
- I have a large rear garden where I could build a NE facing structure (that could double as an entertainment area). The wall is 8.8m across and there is about 18m of grass to the shed. I can't go too close to the shed because the neighbors have a huge tree there that would block the low winter sun. 
- we use about 26 units a day
- 0.75kw pool pump running 10 hours a day
- 150L kwikot geyser is outside and on a Geyserwise. Running 6am - 9am and 6pm - 8pm and set to 60 C.
- 0.75kw DAB water pump pushing water form tanks into the house.
- home office running about 200W 14 hours a day.
- lots of LED lights. a gate motor, security alarm, etc.
After checking what some friends have installed (all have Goodwe), and how they using their systems, I'm leaning towards:
- 12 x JA Solar 455W Mono MBB Percium Half-Cell Silver Frame MC4
- 2 or 3 x Pylontech US3000C 3.5kWh 
- Sunsynk 5kW Hybrid Inverter
I'll split the house on essential and non essential circuits. Essential would be home office, all lights, fridge, alarm, gate motor, water pump that get used day and night. Non essential would be all plugs, geyser, pool, oven, stove, dishwasher, washing machine, etc. I hoping that there is excess solar, then it can be used on the non essential circuit when the sun is shining.
1. Do you think that the system above would work nicely?
2. I assume the non essential circuit must still go through the inverter if I want excess solar to go into it? This would mean that I need the 8kw Sunsync?
3. If Eskom goes down, would the solar still be producing power or does it kick over to batteries? 
4. I can get one of those Geyserwise Titanium PTC elements if it would make a difference? It is just 2 and a half people showering every day, and washing dishes once a day.
Your opinions would be greatly appreciated. If I'm way off, please let me know. 
 
P.S. I still don't understand the neutral / live bonding thing on the Sunsync/inverters. That is a story for another day... I need excess brain power for that.