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Axpert vs Sunsynk vs Kodak

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33 minutes ago, Calli said:

I need some clarity re Sunsynk Inverter and App POWER FLOW please:

I flicked the switch to the Grid position – wanted to run house directly from Grid and not through Inverter or the battery.

But the Sunsynk app Power Flow showed that power was coming from the Grid to the Battery and not to the House (screenshot appended).

Inverter showed the Battery as being full at 99%.

Is it correct how it’s showing it?

I would have thought it would have shown the power from the Grid to Home.

No panels installed currently.

Any explanation would be appreciated.

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  • Yellow Measure
    Yellow Measure

    My apologies, I was busy at the time, I didn't have the capacity to respond in full. Axpert inverters typically work well if all you want is a UPS, keeping essential loads going during a power fa

  • Scorp007
    Scorp007

    Sunsynk even if it was R8000 more expensive

  • Yellow Measure
    Yellow Measure

    It's actually an unfair comparison to be honest, the Sunsynk is in a different league completely to the Axpert-types. That said, if budget is tight, an Axpert type (particularly the Kodak due to its g

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7 hours ago, Calli said:

I need some clarity re Sunsynk Inverter and App POWER FLOW please:

I flicked the switch to the Grid position – wanted to run house directly from Grid and not through Inverter or the battery.

But the Sunsynk app Power Flow showed that power was coming from the Grid to the Battery and not to the House (screenshot appended).

Inverter showed the Battery as being full at 99%.

Is it correct how it’s showing it?

I would have thought it would have shown the power from the Grid to Home.

No panels installed currently.

Any explanation would be appreciated.

Sunsynk App Power Flow.png

Depending on how the Change-Over switch is wired, it’s common for the inverter to still remain connected to municipal power regardless since Change-Over is acting only on the inverter output, not the input - i.e. depending on how it’s wired, it doesn’t actually disconnect the inverter from municipal supply when Grid is selected; it rather swaps the output to municipal so that the inverter no longer supplies those loads.

To do a complete bypass, you should have a separate Inverter AC Supply breaker which will cut it off from muncipal. So to completely bypass, you’d flick Change-Over to ‘Grid’, Inverter AC to ‘Off’ (and turn ‘Off’ PV if it were installed).

The above is how my installation is wired, I’m guessing yours is the same…

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