1 hour ago, YellowTapemeasure said:

The SNA 5000 does not, but the more expensive ones do.

Price is the key to which model. 

The LXP-5K is the hybrid model. Interesting most posts are around the off grid model. 

Edited February 7, 20233 yr by Scorp007

2 minutes ago, Scorp007 said:

Price is the key to which model. 

The LXP-5K is the hybrid model. Interesting most posts are around the off grid model. 

Yes, the SNA5000 is a very well priced and capable device, blends grid, PV, and battery. As for the capability to service non-essentials from extra PV, with our current load-shedding environment that is simply frustrating, especially if one is using it for anything more than water heating.   

Thank you. 

Edited February 7, 20233 yr by Calli

On 2023/02/07 at 6:41 AM, YellowTapemeasure said:

Yes, the SNA5000 is a very well priced and capable device, blends grid, PV, and battery. As for the capability to service non-essentials from extra PV, with our current load-shedding environment that is simply frustrating, especially if one is using it for anything more than water heating.   

If I may, another question please:

Which battery would you pair with the  Sunsynk 5kW Hybrid Inverter

1. Sunsynk 5kwh batteries to extend warranty to 10 years

2. Freedom Won eTower LiFePO4 Battery 5kW 52V

3. Solarwize Lithium Wall Mount 120Ah 48V 5,8KW

If at a later stage when I add PV, I can always add another Sunsynk 5kW Hybrid Inverter, or should I rather install a Sunsynk Hybrid 8kW Inverter now? 

Your thoughts and assistance is greatly appreciated. 

9 hours ago, Calli said:

If I may, another question please:

Which battery would you pair with the  Sunsynk 5kW Hybrid Inverter

1. Sunsynk 5kwh batteries to extend warranty to 10 years

2. Freedom Won eTower LiFePO4 Battery 5kW 52V

3. Solarwize Lithium Wall Mount 120Ah 48V 5,8KW

If at a later stage when I add PV, I can always add another Sunsynk 5kW Hybrid Inverter, or should I rather install a Sunsynk Hybrid 8kW Inverter now? 

Your thoughts and assistance is greatly appreciated. 

That's quite a few questions, last one first: Yes, you can parallel all hybrid Sunsynks, up to 16 of them. There are some caveats wrt generator and aux usage, and they are fussy wrt parallel cable lengths and you need the exact software versions on all, but apart from that they work well in parallel.

Although the 8K Sunsynk is hugely popular, I do suspect that many installs are oversized though, where a 5K Sunsynk would suffice. It also depends on your simultaneous appliance usage: If you want to make toast, boil eggs, make coffee and fry bacon in the airfryer all at once, and then your large geyser kicks in, you will have a problem. If your monthly utilisation is under say 500 kWh and you have people in the household that are aware of the limitation, and prepared to juggle loads, you can still get away with it, just put the geyser on a timer. And then again there is budget: A 5K inverter inverter today is better than an 8K inverter in 6-12 months' time.

On batteries, once again it depends on your load requirements, and budget, because they do not all allow discharge and charge at the same rate. This means that if you buy only one, and its max continuous discharge is 50A, then the maximum load that it will support during load shedding is (roughly) 50Ax48V= 2400W. Two in parallel would bring you closer to 5K, but may break your budget. Some allow discharge at 100A (1C), so if you only have budget for one, and you plan for heavy loads from the battery, then you would want to consider one of these rather. There are different models of Sunsynk batteries, some are capable of continuous discharge at 100A (1C), some not, so be aware of this. The 10 year extended warranty is great if you can get hold of one that is 1C. AFAIK the Freedom Won eTower is also 1C, but I speak under correction, you need to check. Other 1C batteries to consider are Greenrich / Kodak, BSLBatt and Hubble AM2.

It sounds like you need some good advice from a trusted source, so I would advise giving the Powerforumstore a call, In the past In have found that Steve can help you with all the sizing stuff, and will always give you the best advice. The bonus is that they are very competitively priced.

Thank you. I appreciate your explanation.

I will give Steve a call.

I read through all the posts and I want to add a few quest. Given that a Sunsynk is better than a Kodak inverter and that the municipality is allowing me 63A = +-14.5kW, thus far I am fine with the 14.5kw not mentioning load shedding and power cuts. The kodak I am looking at is a typical Axpert inverter but from my understanding the inverter can supply the 48VDC BUS from GRID, Solar and batteries meaning that the 3 sources will be blended to provide the 5kw output. Any larger output will go into overload for a short time then switch over to the GRID or the inverter will switch off or fail. You can also supply the same 48VDC BUS using a separate MPTT string / wind generator or 48V charger of sorts.

Currently a Synsynk 8.8kW will cost R44k and a Kodak 5kW cost R13k depending on were you buy. At that cost I can easily see that 3x kodak's in parallel will cost R39k but in total I'll have a 15kw inverter. It is then better to compare 1x Sunsynk 8.8kw with 3x kodak's. 15kW is also more than what I currently get from Tshwane. The kodaks inverters in combination will also have more MPTT's and better battery charging capabilities than the Sunsynk as well as some redundancy. Going off-grid from an inverter output perspective seems to be in reasonable, not looking at battery capacity or solar energy during cloudy days. The Kodak x3 needs a 15kwh battery where the Synsynk 8.8kw needs a 9kwh battery which makes the kodak x3 a little more expensive but lets ignore that for now... Which one is best in a off-grid scenario: Sunsynk 8.8kW R44k or 3x Kodak 15kW R39?

Some how I expect the answer to be more about after sales service, expected lifetime, load capabilities like large machinery, reliability, warranties, compatibility with batteries, simplicity in design and repair, low frequency vs high frequency inverter.

I am not to concerned about resistive loads but inductive loads can cause issues. If the following loads are considered : boar hole 0.75kw, water pressure pump 0.75kw, lawn mower 2.2kw, swimming pool pump 1.1kw, pressure spray 1.4kw, circular saw 1.2kw, large grinder 1.1kw. Not all of these loads will be run at the same time but two of them can be run at the same time as well as other resistive loads, thus overloading is a reality but both inverter allows for about 50% - 100% overload for a short time. Which one is best in a off-grid scenario: Sunsynk 8.8kW R44k or 3x Kodak 15kW R39?

Is it worth while to rather take the plunge for a more expensive proper low frequency inverter to handle typical house hold DIY loads or are the high frequency Sunsynk and Kondak inverter okay with this?

It would seem that in South Africa you only get 5 year warranties and in some cases 10 years no matter the cost of the inverter. Also no matter the cost of the inverter, the question needs to be asked if the installer, supplier, distributer or manufacturer will still be here 5 or 10 years later to service a warranty or repair. Even worse, inverter seems like they are changing as quickly as PC's changed the last 30 years. That means that 5 - 10 years from now you will probably want to buy a new and much improved inverter rather than repairing an old inverter through a warranty claim or payment.

We have a brand-new Kodak OG 5.48 5kW inverter but can't get it to take any charge at all from our 6.5kW generator. According to Kodak we need a minimum 7.5kW gennie to charge. They say the generator has to be 50% 'bigger' than the inverter. This seems to apply only to Kodak inverters since we have experience with Victron, Microcare and Sunsynk, all of which will charge from a smaller generator.

Does anybody have any comments/advice?

We had a technician visit yesterday and he told us that we might need to switch the inverter from BATTERY MODE to LINE MODE to make it take a charge, but couldn't work out how it's done.

Any ideas?

On 2022/06/02 at 2:09 PM, Bobster. said:

Well you're certainly always ready to spring to Hubble's defence. I'd wager that if @isetech had mentioned Victron and Freedom Won, you'd have not bothered replying.

I made no claim about 48 hours, I was talking about service and how we find out about it, and how we can't take it for granted. So I don't feel any need to accept your request to support a claim I never made.

It is true that another battery maker was marked down, so to speak, recently (I'll add that it was not by me) because they didn't want to disclose certain information over the telephone.

 

You seem to be very negative about everyone's products (same industry but totally different products) and instead of adding value to this discussion you are criticizing one of the people who are actually adding useful and informative feedback regarding batteries and inverters which we all want to read about. If you want to complain about comments and products then rather go to Hellopeter where equally negative people like to hang out. This is about batteries and inverters and has nothing at all to do with your personal gripe with Hilti or your love for Fluke.

Sorry to be so blunt, but the last thing we need on this forum is for someone to undermine information which the rest of us want to read and you could possibly stop someone with knowledge actually sharing their views. If you have value and informative comments then please continue to post but if you choose to undermine people and make their comments seem invalid then rather keep your thoughts to yourself. I doubt I am the only one in this forum that would prefer you to do so! And no, I do not know the person posting comments, nor am I affiliated in any way to the companies you are trying to discredit.

Can I trouble you for some advice please:

I just had an Installation of Sunsynk Single-Phase 5.5kW Hybrid Inverter and a Sunsynk Sun-Batt 5.32 done.

All the essentials were connected to the Sunsynk and the following items were left connected to Eskom Power:

Smeg Induction Hob (4 months old), Oven Geysers, Swimming pool and Jacuzzi.

Issue: Once the Sunsynk system is powered up, the Smeg Induction Hob, switches on, but does not work further – no zones can be selected and the automatic pan selection does not work.

When the inverter input is switched off, the Smeg Hob works perfectly.

Also, if the system is switched over to battery only, Hob also works seamlessly.

All connections, cabling etc have been checked, even the power supply to the Hob – this boils a kettle perfectly.

Seams that there is a frequency interference once the Sunsynk is powered up, even though the Hob works with Eskom and is not part of the Essentials connected to the Sunsynk.

The installation companies engineer has suggested that the issue lies with the inverter’s frequency 'causing an arc' and thus affecting the functioning of the Smeg Hob.

He suggested we install an EMI filter.

Is this correct? What Filter would you recommend and where would you install – inline at source or just at the Hob?

As I have 3 phase in the house should I perhaps use a 3 phase EMI filter.

Your opinion and advice will be greatly appreciated greatly.

Edited October 25, 20232 yr by Calli
Grammer

1 hour ago, Calli said:

 

The installation companies engineer has suggested that the issue lies with the inverter’s frequency causing an arc and thus affecting the functioning of the Smeg Hob.

He suggested we install an EMI filter.

Is this correct? What Filter would you recommend and where would you install – inline at source or just at the Hob?

As I have 3 phase in the house should I perhaps use a 3 phase EMI filter.

Your opinion and advice will be greatly appreciated greatly.

The answer of the ARC seems to be a strange one.

When working directly from the inverter the Smeg is happy so no problem with the frequency from the inverter. Cannot think you need the EMI filter.

Lets hear from other members.

7 hours ago, Scorp007 said:

The answer of the ARC seems to be a strange one.

Yes, I think the arc reference is a miscommunication or just nonsense. 

7 hours ago, Scorp007 said:

When working directly from the inverter the Smeg is happy so no problem with the frequency from the inverter. 

My reading is that the hob never runs from the inverter output, it seems to be merely the presence of the inverter via its AC input connection that is spooking the hob's electronics.

All I can think of is that pulses from the inverter blending power are upsetting the hob, so that indeed an EMI filter near the hob's AC connection might help.

I assume that the hob runs off a single phase, so a single phase filter should suffice, unless other appliances show signs of confusion. If the hib does connect to two or three phases, then you probably need two or three filters, or one three-phase filter if you can find one. 

Thanks. It's reassuring to hear that an EMI filter might help.

Any suggestions on make and Amps of the EMI Filter?

Thanks once again.

Cheers

4 hours ago, Coulomb said:

Yes, I think the arc reference is a miscommunication or just nonsense. 

My reading is that the hob never runs from the inverter output, it seems to be merely the presence of the inverter via its AC input connection that is spooking the hob's electronics.

All I can think of is that pulses from the inverter blending power are upsetting the hob, so that indeed an EMI filter near the hob's AC connection might help.

I assume that the hob runs off a single phase, so a single phase filter should suffice, unless other appliances show signs of confusion. If the hib does connect to two or three phases, then you probably need two or three filters, or one three-phase filter if you can find one. 

Yes I totally misread the bit that the Smeg is not on the essential side. Need to read 3 times like in an exam 😅😅

Don't stress.

It happens to the best of us. 🫣

4 hours ago, Coulomb said:

All I can think of is that pulses from the inverter blending power are upsetting the hob, so that indeed an EMI filter near the hob's AC connection might help.

@Calli you can  verify this by disabling any export to the non essentials and check wether this makes a difference.

 

8 hours ago, Calli said:

Any suggestions on make and Amps of the EMI Filter?

Any make should do within reason, and the rated current should be the maximum current of the hob when all zones are on; probably the hob has a rated maximum current, and the filter should equal or exceed that.

Thanks for that.

I appreciate your advice.

Cheers

10 hours ago, Calli said:

Any suggestions on make and Amps of the EMI Filter

I have previously use this EMI filter from Digikey on sensitive medical equipment. Get the 40 amp version.

https://www.digikey.co.za/en/products/detail/dit/TB1-40A0D0H/18681379?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax_Product_Low Volume Products&utm_term=&productid=18681379&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-19721096547_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-18681379_sig-CjwKCAjw-eKpBhAbEiwAqFL0mj1fmUubg86hLLUnrxOaVeFBPlBAgKQV-BTA3HoD049dX7Zt2lqyOxoCA1cQAvD_BwE&gclid=CjwKCAjw-eKpBhAbEiwAqFL0mj1fmUubg86hLLUnrxOaVeFBPlBAgKQV-BTA3HoD049dX7Zt2lqyOxoCA1cQAvD_BwE

Thanks for the link. Will look into it.

22 hours ago, Coulomb said:

Any make should do within reason, and the rated current should be the maximum current of the hob when all zones are on; probably the hob has a rated maximum current, and the filter should equal or exceed that.

I've been told that EMI model must also be according to the frequency of the inverter as well.

Does that make sense?

Some feedback.
The good news: the problem has been resolved.
Sunsynk gracefully supplied an EMI Filter (n/c) which was installed and now the Smeg Hob works.
Thanks to all for the discussion and advice.

It looks like that filter might be rated for only 20 A, which means it could be overloaded when more than two hobs are running at once. But at least you know now that it's worth buying a higher current EMI filter.

As per Sunsynk advice.

We moved the EMI filter from under the hob. Sunsynk specified that the filter is specked for the 5KW inverter and should be between the inverter and grid port, this then will not have any current draw through this filter to go to hob.
If not done, I would have to buy a 30+A filter if it remained under hob.

Thankfully, Hob now works well.

I need some clarity re Sunsynk Inverter and App POWER FLOW please:

I flicked the switch to the Grid position – wanted to run house directly from Grid and not through Inverter or the battery.

But the Sunsynk app Power Flow showed that power was coming from the Grid to the Battery and not to the House (screenshot appended).

Inverter showed the Battery as being full at 99%.

Is it correct how it’s showing it?

I would have thought it would have shown the power from the Grid to Home.

No panels installed currently.

Any explanation would be appreciated.

Edited January 3, 20242 yr by Calli