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Deye 5kw not displaying correctly ?

Featured Replies

Hi guys,

I need some help, I recently had my deye 5kw installed with 10 panels and 2x hubble am-2 batteries and im not sure if the system in working correctly?

On the unit screen it shows im pulling from solar and feeding to the grid but my house is not pulling any power at all? and on other occasions it shows no solar wattage at all but its still feeding the grid? im not sure if its setup incorrectly but i have a perpaid meter and not a smart meter so im not sure how its feeding the grid and im not drawing any power? 

when i have load shedding the system keeps my house up and during the day the battery stays at 100%

is it possible its working but just not displaying correctly ?

 

any help would be much appreciated .

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

if anyone has a similar issue my problem was two things the ct was installed backwards and the neutral wire running to the inverter from municipal power was in the wrong place in the main db board

 

cheers

15 minutes ago, Nick555 said:

if anyone has a similar issue my problem was two things the ct was installed backwards and the neutral wire running to the inverter from municipal power was in the wrong place in the main db board

 

cheers

Hi Nick

glad it got resolved - just 2 things stand out for me:

1 - You have grid charge selected for all timeslots of the day while you have solar - this is inefficient because if your SOC drops below that % it will use the grid (while there is sun) to recharge the batteries - so you are not saving / gaining anything during the day

2 - You are not using the CAN comms properly between inverter and battery - instead its set to use Battery % [On Batt Mode screen] - it should be Lithium with CAN and the protocol. this will enable the BMS to read and manage battery % better

  • Author
41 minutes ago, mzezman said:

Hi Nick

glad it got resolved - just 2 things stand out for me:

1 - You have grid charge selected for all timeslots of the day while you have solar - this is inefficient because if your SOC drops below that % it will use the grid (while there is sun) to recharge the batteries - so you are not saving / gaining anything during the day

2 - You are not using the CAN comms properly between inverter and battery - instead its set to use Battery % [On Batt Mode screen] - it should be Lithium with CAN and the protocol. this will enable the BMS to read and manage battery % better

thanks for the input , this is how the service provider set up the inverter , what do you suggest  i change the settings to?

3 minutes ago, Nick555 said:

thanks for the input , this is how the service provider set up the inverter , what do you suggest  i change the settings to?

The easy one - If you want to use your panels most efficiently i would untick grid charge for the first 3 of your timeslots. Let the PV charge the batteries and get used by the home then ONLY really rely on Eskom for the night slots

The slightly more challenging one - Deye and Hubble can communicate using the CAN cable the protocol so you should be able to select Lithium on the battery mode screen. If you select your LiBMS screen you should then see the battery % as reported by the BMS

  • Author
17 minutes ago, mzezman said:

The easy one - If you want to use your panels most efficiently i would untick grid charge for the first 3 of your timeslots. Let the PV charge the batteries and get used by the home then ONLY really rely on Eskom for the night slots

The slightly more challenging one - Deye and Hubble can communicate using the CAN cable the protocol so you should be able to select Lithium on the battery mode screen. If you select your LiBMS screen you should then see the battery % as reported by the BMS

thanks il have a look at the time slots , in terms of the batteries il be honest im slightly worried to change the settings there, would there be any big down side to not changing it over ?

2 hours ago, Nick555 said:

thanks il have a look at the time slots , in terms of the batteries il be honest im slightly worried to change the settings there, would there be any big down side to not changing it over ?

The battery % might not be the best for lithium and BMS would be more accurate but that's up to you

  • Author
14 hours ago, mzezman said:

The battery % might not be the best for lithium and BMS would be more accurate but that's up to you

thanks for all the help much appreciated,  if i do change the battery settings would the rest stay the same such as volts etc ? i would just be selecting lithium ?

2 hours ago, Nick555 said:

thanks for all the help much appreciated,  if i do change the battery settings would the rest stay the same such as volts etc ? i would just be selecting lithium ?

Yes that should be all - i am assuming the installer setup the voltages when they installed?

19 hours ago, Nick555 said:

thanks il have a look at the time slots , in terms of the batteries il be honest im slightly worried to change the settings there, would there be any big down side to not changing it over ?

The inverter will not be able to tell you accurately how much power is in the batteries as it has no comms to the batteries at the moment.

It is MUCH better to have communications between the inverter and battery and have no idea why an installer would not have set it up correctly for you on install.  

2 hours ago, Nick555 said:

thanks for all the help much appreciated,  if i do change the battery settings would the rest stay the same such as volts etc ? i would just be selecting lithium ?

The inverter takes over the control of the batteries voltages etc as it is speaking directly to the battery BMS system and supplies as requested by the BMS. 

  • Author
52 minutes ago, mzezman said:

Yes that should be all - i am assuming the installer setup the voltages when they installed?

yes they did, thanks il take photos before i change over in-case i need to swap back

  • Author
45 minutes ago, Sc00bs said:

The inverter will not be able to tell you accurately how much power is in the batteries as it has no comms to the batteries at the moment.

It is MUCH better to have communications between the inverter and battery and have no idea why an installer would not have set it up correctly for you on install.  

thanks i thought this was the case, when the installer was back to fix my issue i did bring up why it is not set to lithium and they told me they have been instructed to set it up this way.

22 minutes ago, Nick555 said:

thanks i thought this was the case, when the installer was back to fix my issue i did bring up why it is not set to lithium and they told me they have been instructed to set it up this way.

Wonder why they were told to set it up like that...and by whom? Its an interesting landscape the solar space with different batteries and inverters

  • Author
19 hours ago, mzezman said:

Wonder why they were told to set it up like that...and by whom? Its an interesting landscape the solar space with different batteries and inverters

Hi Bud one last question i changed the settings as you suggested this morning but under battery settings i see lithium mode should i just leave that default ?

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19 minutes ago, Nick555 said:

Hi Bud one last question i changed the settings as you suggested this morning but under battery settings i see lithium mode should i just leave that default ?

 

There are different modes for different battery communication protocols. 

Is there a data cable between the battery and the inverter? 

Check what the BMS screen says, if it is reporting the battery information correctly then it is speaking to the battery.  

I personally would insist that the installer comes back and sets the batteries up correctly for you

  • Author
3 minutes ago, Sc00bs said:

There are different modes for different battery communication protocols. 

Is there a data cable between the battery and the inverter? 

Check what the BMS screen says, if it is reporting the battery information correctly then it is speaking to the battery.  

I personally would insist that the installer comes back and sets the batteries up correctly for you

yes there is a cable and after i changed it over the battery percentage seemed more accurate if that makes sense ?

if i call them back they just going to put it back onto battery % i guarantee you that

42 minutes ago, Nick555 said:

Hi Bud one last question i changed the settings as you suggested this morning but under battery settings i see lithium mode should i just leave that default ?

20230511_074918_resized.jpg

Lithium mode 00 is the correct ne for Hubble. Explain the "SOC % seems more accurate?" statement?

  • Author
2 hours ago, mzezman said:

Lithium mode 00 is the correct ne for Hubble. Explain the "SOC % seems more accurate?" statement?

well the battery was reading at 83% and as soon as i swapped over it  to lithium it read at 79% . then the battery "percentage lights " (if you call them that) on the unit itself displayed one had more power than the other by one bar instead of them both displaying they had the same "percentage " like usual .

23 minutes ago, Nick555 said:

well the battery was reading at 83% and as soon as i swapped over it  to lithium it read at 79% . then the battery "percentage lights " (if you call them that) on the unit itself displayed one had more power than the other by one bar instead of them both displaying they had the same "percentage " like usual .

Oh ok - interesting

On 2023/05/11 at 8:27 AM, Nick555 said:

yes there is a cable and after i changed it over the battery percentage seemed more accurate if that makes sense ?

if i call them back they just going to put it back onto battery % i guarantee you that

It is impossible to get an accurate battery SOC on a lithium battery using the battery voltage due to the way the Lithium cells discharge. 

Lead-acid batteries voltage is pretty much linear so you can get a reasonably accurate SOC from the battery voltage. 

In the Lithium batteries the voltage changes  are only at the extreme ends of charge i.e. 95-100% & 15-0%. Voltage difference between 80% SOC and 20% SOC is maybe 1V and that voltage reading varies based on load et. The only way to get an accurate reading is to speak to the battery packs BMS which usually have a shunt to measure the amount of power going in/out the battery and as a result has an accurate idea as to how much power is still available.  

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