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Everything posted by Sc00bs

  1. What inverter are you connecting the batteries to @JacquesVDM ? Might be easier just to get the SOC from the inverter
  2. Updated cabling for the USB-RS485 adapter, only requires these three cables when connected up to a RJ45 wired in 568B This apparently (needs confirmation someone) also has the advantage that it will work if plugged into the CANBUS port, handy if you have a battery that connects to the RS485 port.
  3. Thank you for sharing the graph @Tinuva I actually use the solar forecast so as to decide whether to switch my pool pump on or not with Node Red. I haven't been using it to forecast the actual production number as my batteries are usually full by 12:00 so I have quite a lot of solar power I don't use in summer, but rather just to give me an indication as to how much solar radiation we will have available for the day.
  4. @Tinuva That is very cool, could you post the code for it perhaps?
  5. Thanks @kellerza that makes more sense. So more like the power info on the inverter display. Going to have to spend some time to see if I can get my head around it
  6. Hi @Sarel Have looked at the built in one in HA, the Tesla Clone one allows for some added functionality from what I can see. Need to play around with it a bit more
  7. Also decides whether to switch the Pool pump on or not depending on the Solar Forecast for the day.
  8. Hi @Parrot I had exactly the same problem. My non-essential loads were only non-essential when they was no sun and they would have to run off battery power, if the sun is out my Inverter is making more than enough power to run everything. I have Home Assistant running and it is connected to my Sunsynk to pull all the interesting data from the inverter. All my loads are connected to the essential load side of the inverter and have smart breaker switches in the DB Board that can switch the loads on/off using Home assistant & Node Red. I have set up a rule that if the Grid Frequency on the Inverter drops to less than 45hz (Load Shedding) and the PV Power being generated is less than 2kw then all the heavy loads are disconnected. Is not crazy expensive to setup yourself, breakers switches are +-R600 each locally and a Home Assistant setup will cost you +-R2k on a Pi4
  9. Found this power card for Home Assistant, a very neat way of showing what's happening with the power in your solar system. https://github.com/reptilex/tesla-style-solar-power-card
  10. @NoordSolar You could automate it with Node Red using information it gets from the inverter, is pretty easy to do as long as you don't mind spending a few hours watching Youtube video's. My Node Red cycles through my heavy loads based on a SOC, current Solar PV production from the inverter and from the smart breaker switches (current load on the breaker when switched on) that send power to the heavy loads i.e. geysers/Borehole/Pool etc. When one geyser is up to temp the load on it drops and it can cycle to the next load. I also decide whether to switch the pool on in the morning based on solar weather forecast for the day in Home Assistant. As long as the Aircon interfaces with Node Red/Home Assistant it would not be an issue. There seem to be a few options as to how to do this https://community.home-assistant.io/t/smart-ac-control/115764
  11. Forgot to mention, it is important to check the frequency that the Inverter is running at. You can check with a Multimeter pretty easily. Mine was running at 46kz and as a result when load was added it slowed slightly which went out of the acceptable range for the Inverter, the inverter then disconnected. I adjusted the frequency by adjusting the screw on the throttle linkage (Youtube it if you are unsure) and set it at 52hz which seems to have helped a lot.
  12. Sc00bs


    What's the load when you switch the Eskom power off?
  13. Had a look in my records and it has happened a few times to my data as well. Interesting that they are all exactly the same figure i.e. 6.55Mwh
  14. Yes, unfortunately it looks like we are going to have to buy new dongle's if we want to use it though. Was hoping that we would just be able to flash the old ones with some new firmware and use them. Maybe someone will come up with a hack of some sorts
  15. I run mine on an Intel i5 NUC running on a 256gb SSD, works like a charm and way faster than a Pi. Purchased of Facebook for R2k
  16. Max in the settings is 12kw, maximum it can invert is 8kw, rest goes to the batteries.
  17. Highest voltage when it is really cold and the sun comes out from behind the clouds at peak solar time.
  18. I have no idea what the 370V number is, on the Ellies spec sheet for the Sunsynk 8kw, it doesn't have it. My understanding is that the 500V number is the one to worry about and to stay well clear off. Max. DC Input Voltage (V) 500V MPPT Range (V) 125V-425V Start-up Voltage (V) 150V Not sure what happens if you go over 425V, smoke and flames over 500V. I would speak to the guy at support for Sunsynk SA and ask him for confirmation, would be nice to know what he says. My own array peaks at 382V
  19. Max voltage is 550V You could put 12 panels per string, would give you 492V & 7140 Watts per string 2 Strings would give you 14280Watts of panels, bearing in mind that the inverter cannot generate more than 12000Watts of power and generate more than 8kw of AC, that would be a huge overkill and probably result in a quite lot of power being wasted. I have an East/West Split with 12740W of panels which works very well with my Sunsynk 8kw, peak solar power at the moment is about 11.2kw and because it is East/West I get it over a longer period of time than North facing panels. 2 Strings of 10 panels each would probably be the way to go I would think and that would give you 11,900Watts of solar panels
  20. You can safely over wattage the Inverter, there is a video on the Sunsynk youtube channel about it as the Inverter can control the amperage going through it by adjusting the resistance of the inverter. It will not draw more than the rated amps from the panels. The thing to be concerned about is the voltage. The inverter cannot lower the Voltage so you need to make sure you stay well clear of the maximum voltages and take into account spikes due to cold panels etc. Otherwise you can expect flames and smoke! I have 12,740Watts of panels on and East/West split on my 8kw Sunsynk Inverter without any issues.
  21. @Nabotech Try reading the three posts prior to your post? No need to add a Sonoff
  22. CBI stuff all uses the Tuya microcontrollers, you can control them in Home Assistant using LocalTuya or one of those plugins. You can also use theSmartlife phone app if you prefer to the CBI app
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