Sc00bs

5 min interval is where it averages the data, even if you did disconnect every 4 minutes, the datalogger still needs time to reconnect, fetch data, and upload. I have been experimenting with this for months and is extremely unreliable, one or the other dataset will be unreliable at the end of the day. There are other modbus rules that need to be adhered to as well.
The inverter can only have a single master, period. Either the datalogger, or your pc, raspi, etc. It just doesn't have multiple slave ports like other inverters, and the only way to add more, is by using a waveshare which proxies the inverters data to multiple masters (datalogger and rs485 connection)

Will just take a bit longer to heat up
Omni Calculator
Water Heating Calculator
Use the water heating calculator to determine how much time and energy you'll need to increase the temperature of the water.

Would just put a 3kw element in.

From Deepseek :-)
If the voltage supplying your 4kW geyser increases from 230V to 250V, the geyser will indeed use more power. Here's a concise explanation:
Power Calculation: The geyser's power rating of 4kW (4000 watts) is at 230V. Using the formula P=V2RP=RV2, where RR is resistance, we calculate the resistance at 230V as R=23024000≈13.225R=40002302≈13.225 ohms.
Increased Voltage Impact: At 250V, the current becomes I=25013.225≈18.9I=13.225250≈18.9 amps. The new power consumption is P=250×18.9≈4725P=250×18.9≈4725 watts or 4.725kW, an increase of approximately 0.725kW.
Considerations:
Energy Use: The geyser may heat water faster, but total energy over time might remain similar if controlled by a thermostat.
Safety: Operating at a higher voltage than rated can cause overheating, reducing the geyser's lifespan.
Voltage Fluctuations: Consistently high voltage may require a voltage stabilizer to prevent damage.
In conclusion, the increased voltage will make the geyser use more power, potentially leading to faster heating but also safety risks. It's advisable to ensure the geyser is rated for the higher voltage or use protective measures.

So then they can't be wired in parallel as the 100ah is 15 cells and the 200ah is 16 cells.

Agree that they should share the current proportionally, but what I have noticed from experimenting with different brand LFP batteries (all 100A) in the same system is that there are differences between them resulting in different discharge and charge rates between the different brands.
During charging, one battery might reach 100% SOC while a different brand is still on 95%. In this case the full current is passed to the remaining battery which might (or might not) exceeds the recommended charge current. The same happens during discharge.
I used to manage this with SA by tapering down the charge and discharge currents at certain SOC levels.
Here is a recent example, yellow and red are different brands to blue and green (so 3 different brands in 1 system). All have PACE BMS. I am reading the data into SA through the RS485 B port on the 1st battery. Dip switches were set slave 1, slave 2, slave 3 and slave 4 (no master). It does not matter is which order I connect the 4 batteries to the busbar, the result is always the same. 

8 Cells is a 24V battery, not a good idea to connect a 24V battery in parallel with a 48v battery. 
Some "48V" batteries have 15 cells and some have 16 cells, you can't mix them due to the different operating voltages. 
A 16-cell LiFePO4 battery typically has a nominal voltage of 51.2 volts. This is because each individual LiFePO4 cell has a nominal voltage of around 3.2 volts, and 16 cells multiplied by 3.2 volts equals 51.2 volts. 
Key points about 16-cell LiFePO4 batteries:
Nominal Voltage: 51.2 volts
Full Charge Voltage: Around 57.6 volts (depending on the specific battery)
Discharge Cut-off Voltage: Around 48 volts 
A 15-cell LiFePO4 battery typically has a nominal voltage of 48 volts as each cell in a LiFePO4 battery is considered to have a nominal voltage of 3.2 volts, so 15 cells in series would equal 48 volts (15 x 3.2 = 48). 
Key points about a 15-cell LiFePO4 battery:
Nominal voltage: 48 volts
Per cell voltage: 3.2 volts
Application: Often used in systems requiring a 48 volt power supply 
I disagree with @I84RiS on the max charging amperage of the batteries. The power absorption of the batteries will be higher when they are in parallel than each of them individually so you can set to the max charge amperage of the larger battery quite safely as the current will be spread across the batteries proportionally to their capacity. i.e. If you have a 200Ah and 100Ah in parallel and give it 30A, 20A will be absorbed by the 200Ah and 10A by the 100Ah. 
 
 
 

8 Cells is a 24V battery, not a good idea to connect a 24V battery in parallel with a 48v battery. 
Some "48V" batteries have 15 cells and some have 16 cells, you can't mix them due to the different operating voltages. 
A 16-cell LiFePO4 battery typically has a nominal voltage of 51.2 volts. This is because each individual LiFePO4 cell has a nominal voltage of around 3.2 volts, and 16 cells multiplied by 3.2 volts equals 51.2 volts. 
Key points about 16-cell LiFePO4 batteries:
Nominal Voltage: 51.2 volts
Full Charge Voltage: Around 57.6 volts (depending on the specific battery)
Discharge Cut-off Voltage: Around 48 volts 
A 15-cell LiFePO4 battery typically has a nominal voltage of 48 volts as each cell in a LiFePO4 battery is considered to have a nominal voltage of 3.2 volts, so 15 cells in series would equal 48 volts (15 x 3.2 = 48). 
Key points about a 15-cell LiFePO4 battery:
Nominal voltage: 48 volts
Per cell voltage: 3.2 volts
Application: Often used in systems requiring a 48 volt power supply 
I disagree with @I84RiS on the max charging amperage of the batteries. The power absorption of the batteries will be higher when they are in parallel than each of them individually so you can set to the max charge amperage of the larger battery quite safely as the current will be spread across the batteries proportionally to their capacity. i.e. If you have a 200Ah and 100Ah in parallel and give it 30A, 20A will be absorbed by the 200Ah and 10A by the 100Ah. 
 
 
 

Hi Guys 
Just wanted to share my latest video on installation and connecting your inverter to Home Assistant using the new RS485 shield and ESP32C board. 
Makes life much easier to set the thing up, no soldering and you only need to connect the power up inside the inverter to a 12V power supply and the RS485 cables so dead easy. 
You can get the board and an ESP32 from https://smarthomeintegrations.co.za/ for R400 and get delivery in a day or so. 
Slipx06 (Paul) has also included some cool new YAML code to calculate Daily energy production and consumption in the ESP32 and send that info to HA as well. 
Let me know what you guys think of the video please
 
 

Updated 🙂 
Code is way simple 
 
 
esphome:   name: esphome-web-c99f28   friendly_name: LCD Display   esp32:   board: esp32dev   framework:     type: arduino   # Enable logging logger:   # Enable Home Assistant API api:   encryption:     key: "?????????????????????????????????????????"   ota:   wifi:   ssid: !secret wifi_ssid   password: !secret wifi_password     # Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails   ap:     ssid: "Esphome-Web-C99F28"     password: "GjiirKa2VeFe"   captive_portal:   # Example configuration entry i2c:   sda: 21   scl: 22   sensor:   - platform: homeassistant     id: battery_soc     entity_id: sensor.ss_battery_soc     internal: true     - platform: homeassistant     id: grid_frequency     entity_id: sensor.ss_grid_frequency     internal: true     - platform: homeassistant     id: inverter_power     entity_id: sensor.ss_inverter_output_power     internal: true     - platform: homeassistant     id: total_pv     entity_id: sensor.ss_total_pv_power     internal: true   display:   - platform: lcd_pcf8574     dimensions: 20x4     address: 0x27     update_interval: 5s     lambda: |-       it.printf(0, 0, " SOC: %.1f %", id(battery_soc).state);       it.printf(0, 1, " Grid Freq: %.1f Hz", id(grid_frequency).state);       it.printf(0, 2, " Inver Power: %.1f W", id(inverter_power).state);       it.printf(0, 3, " Total PV: %.1f W", id(total_pv).state);

So this is evolving quite quickly into my new favorite tool for managing everything
Remember to like and subscribe on the video if you want to see all the weird gadgety/coding things I get up to when I am bored.

Shout out to @kellerza @Sc00bs @slipx and everyone else contributing to make all these things work nicely with my gadgets and solar stuff.
 
 

I assume this is 3ph with these reg numbers?
 
Can you write other sensors?
Have you considered using something else than nodered, like my HA addon or the ESP32?
With your current hw, it should be a no brained to get my addon working

Further Update
 
After my initial water analysis, the ph was 6.9 in September 2017. I have done futher tests in December 2018. This what I have found.
I initially filtered my primary irrigation  water with 120 micron mesh filter, then a clinobrite media (swimming pool media),  birm media and finally a 120 disc filter. The household side had a further 4 filters, a 10 micron filter, a solid carbon filter, 5 micron filter and a uv light.
This was not good enough as too much dissolved  iron cand solids came through and contaminated the filters quickly ( 1week) and the water tasted awful.
I then deceided in September 2018 to inject ozone 10g/H and air by means of a venturie.
This has been the results after test done in December 2018.
The ph has dropped to 6.2 before filtering and dropped futher to 5.8 after filtering at 24 degrees celcius.
This has firstly due to less clay colloids which were far more concentrated in the newly drilled borehole.
Secondly after filtering the injected air and ozone reduced the ph due to the absorbtion of carbon dioxide in the water.
This effect has led to other problems.
Firstly birm media needs ph of at least 6.9 to work effectively and secondly the low ph is not good for my plumbing.
I now see when I backwash my birm media that it is clear and this shows that it no longer has any filtering effects.
The  primary clinobrite filter media now works well and drops the iron content from about 5mg/l (TDS 20) to about 0.7mg/l (TDS11) at 24 degrees celcius.
 
I now had to think of something to increase the ph of the water to about 7.5.
There any various methods of increasing the ph and I chosen to use a calcite which is calcium carbonate in pebble form which is slower release. 
This will only be done on the household water side as it is not necessary for irrigation and It is a consumable and will need to be replenished sooner.
I will also remove the birm and fill the vessel with clinobrite.
I have put in 2 more vessels with clinobrite media and  1 for calcite media. Iam hoping the iron (fe) content will drop below 0.3mg/l.
I need to put in a second venturie on the household water side as the flow is less in this line to fill the storage tank and the the primary venturie does not work when it fills the jojo tank and only works for irrigation.
The primary venurie is  20mm. The second one will be a 15mm venturie also joined for ozone injection when the borehole is on.
I will also put in futher big blue filters (3) with carbon and  5 micron filters to improve the taste of the water from thee jojo tank.
I have installed automatic backwash to all ftp vessels (5).
This is a lot of filtering however I need  to be  sure my water is fit for consumption and I do not want to use chlorine injection route in any form.
There can also be anothe complication that the calcite can harden the water however this is not a problem for me as my TDS is 11 before calsite is added.
 
Clinobrite is an inexppensive media  (<R300 a bag) used in swimming pools and koi ponds. It is made from zeolite and can filter out iron (fe) if it is an oxidized form.
I am almost sure other media like clino-x, turbidex and other trade names or simalar media are also made from zeolite at 3x the price.
If anyone kknows if there is any difference please post it.
 
Other media like DMI-65 needs  chlorine predose then the chlorine needs to removed after iron removal.
Maddox or greensand need potassium permanganate (condy's crystals) to regenerate or chlorine predose.
I hope to complete this project early in 2019 and will post pictures and results from changes.
 
Please feel free to comment on any other methods to improve my water quality.
It has been a long and winding road to get to this point.
Peter Topp
 
 
 

Get a DAB Esybox 0.75kw, you won't be unhappy. 
https://waterpumps.co.za/products/dab-e-sybox-mini-3-automatic-pressure-pump-220v-0-75kw
Dead quiet and has a wifi connection, will tell you how much water you are using and there is a setting for higher pressure for a limited time when you want to have a shower etc.
Expensive but well worth it IMO.  

There are videos on my channel on how to do it using automations, works really well Quinton.
 
 
 
etc. etc.

Hi Guys 
Just wanted to share my latest video on installation and connecting your inverter to Home Assistant using the new RS485 shield and ESP32C board. 
Makes life much easier to set the thing up, no soldering and you only need to connect the power up inside the inverter to a 12V power supply and the RS485 cables so dead easy. 
You can get the board and an ESP32 from https://smarthomeintegrations.co.za/ for R400 and get delivery in a day or so. 
Slipx06 (Paul) has also included some cool new YAML code to calculate Daily energy production and consumption in the ESP32 and send that info to HA as well. 
Let me know what you guys think of the video please
 
 

So I used a combination of
@IggyP post from 15 May for the setup, together with your advice to try a different cable and port on my W10 laptop. Started out by resetting the device, then followed each step without touching the device. It worked!

You could also either get an Esp32 (+-R200) or you could use the Solarman Dongle and and connect your inverter to Home Assistant. 
Will allow you to do all sorts of other automations with other smart devices on your network as well as giving you live data reporting. 
Can now also change the "System Work Mode"  settings on the inverter from Home Assistant.
Check out the automation video on https://www.youtube.com/@SolarIntegrations 

There must also be the claim that 'transformerless' is more efficient? (i.e. no losses primary/secondary windings)

Problem resolved, after the reset the Modbus SN was changed to 00, changed it to 01, restarted the inverter and all readings are back to normal.

Hi All, many thanks for all the knowledge I found here. It helped me a lot with my Deye setup.
As a small thanks from my side please check this 3d design of case for SmartDeyeDongle V4 from SmartHomeIntegrations.co.za. I made STL files available on Printables. I hope you guys will find it useful. Cheers :).
https://www.printables.com/model/1048061-mak-housing-for-smart-home-integrations-deye-dongl

Hi Everyone, 
I have done a video on the installation of the KellerZA integration from Johann. I think it is a better option than the Solarman integration as it allows for the writing of settings back to the inverter and gives you an upgrade path if you want a faster refresh. is very flexible and easy to setup. 
Please let me know what you think of the video and if you have any questions please let me know. 
Thanks for the great integration @kellerza 🙂 
 
 

Try emailing [email protected] as they are in charge of switching to prepaid  https://www.joburg.org.za/media_/Newsroom/Pages/2013 articles/2011 & 2012 Articles/Converting-to-prepaid.aspx 
Would like to know where they got the reconnection fee of R12,000 from, from the Citypower website:
For each disconnection and each reconnection of supply:
Disconnection notification only: R145,28 including VAT
Request by customer: R685,14 including VAT
Due to charges in arrear: R685,14 including VAT
Illegally reconnected conventional supply: R2 635,29 including VAT
Meter tampering/prepaid meter bypass/illegal connection: R2635,29 including VAT
Once this amount is paid you will need to go to a City Power depot and apply and pay for a new connection and meter.
Settling overdue accounts after services are disconnected
In the event that services have been removed, you will have to make full payment of the outstanding balance and show your proof of payment before services will be reconnected.
 
I think that the issues is, under what conditions were you disconnected? 
 

IMO there shouldn't be any fine at all unless you are breaking some rule/usage requirement.  
Would ask for the documentation where it says that if you don't use any power for three months they can cut you off, I can't see anything on the Citypower website to that effect and if they can't provide you with anything that they reconnect you. Maybe get a lawyers letter written to that affect. 
Engage with them on Twitter/Facebook  

@Sc00bs was having a good look at the settings and nothing stands out to be incorrect.
And based on your last post you might be correct, CT Coils might still be an issue.