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Axpert King 5kW

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18 hours ago, Marius2001 said:

are there any good reasons to upgrade?

The dual conversion architecture means that you get a nice consistent 230 V from the output even when "blending" with horrible mains. As long as it's not so horrible that the King rejects it. My impression is that South Africa's grid varies significantly in voltage, especially following the all-too-frequent load sheddings.

But this has a slight efficiency impact, so it's not for everyone.

  • 7 months later...
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  • In case you are wondering why I bought this: I need a UPS, I have sensitive equipment I don't have PV and don't need PV This device has claimed 0ms transfer time (maybe double con

  • Unmodified internals:

  • Extra components I had over after re-assembly (post slim down):

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Who can help me? I have a total short circuit on the PV input.
I removed the board 16-500689-02G but it has a short circuit at the PV input.
The short circuit was caused by an overvoltage.
I suspect the capacitors and would like to replace the entire board.
Who can tell me where I can order this board?
Thank you Jürgen

  • 6 months later...
  • 1 year later...
2 hours ago, Benjamin-Rousseau said:

I suspect the switching diode..

I am looking for the reference of this diode ?

[ Edit: Oops! I assumed a high PV voltage model (i.e. an Axpert King II), since high PV voltage models are so common these days. See next post if it's a 145 V PV max model. ]

Since the high PV voltage models use a boost converter, I'd suspect one or both of the boost IGBTs (click on the below for better clarity):

image.png

From https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?p=104621#p104621 . As usual, various driver components may be damaged as well; see the updated driver traced schematic.

Edited by Coulomb
Probably wrong model!

If it's a 145 V max PV model, then I would not expect a zero ohms short circuit across the PV input:

image.png

From this post.

I'd expect to see just the freewheel diodes of the MOSFETs if the diodes are shorted. I suppose that overvoltage could short both the MOSFETs and the diodes (6 of each in total). I've only shown the black half of the circuit above; the red drive looks exactly the same.

On 2025/03/29 at 1:01 AM, Benjamin-Rousseau said:

Here is the photo of the component

Ah. That looks like the 80 A version of the 60 A Solar Charge Controllers that I have (max 145 V PV). So those three big components with the middle one obviously damaged are actually the Transient Voltage Suppressors (TVS), not the switching diodes. They are designed to conduct when there is excessive PV voltage, which is exactly the history of your board. Note the Chinese convention of marking the anode of diodes with a plus sign; the plus signs actually connect to PV- !! That's because these are essentially very high pulse power zener diodes, which should not be forward biased in normal operation. I briefly discuss a similar repair in this post. Be very careful with polarity when replacing these. Without fully checking, I suspect that you want the (cathode?) band or double stripe at the opposite end of the plus symbols. I can't see the stripes in your photo (or mine) to confirm.

Thank you for your reply,

This is indeed the version (max 145V PV)

I found this documentation but still not the TVS2 réfèrence...

Would you have the reference to allow me to purchase this component ?

Tank you for my English French

On 2024/03/22 at 2:06 PM, jfassl said:

Do you still have these components? Then sned me a Mail to [email protected]

image001 (1).png

23 hours ago, Benjamin-Rousseau said:

Would you have the reference to allow me to purchase this component ?

The service manuals never seem to give details on replacement parts. Possibly it's so that they don't help the clone manufacturers, but that's no good for we repairers. Any part like this should do; the link is to the Australian site; it should redirect you to the French site, possibly after asking:

https://www.digikey.com.au/en/products/detail/littelfuse-inc/SMCJ150A/762440

Any unidiectional TVS in an SMC / DO-214AB case and with a 150 V standoff voltage would probably do. The band is at the cathode end, which should have the positive PV rail, which will be the end that is NOT marked with a plus sign on the PCB. It's probably worth checking that with a multimeter before soldering in the new parts. In the Littelfuse line, you want the versions with no C in front of the A in the part number, so you get the unidirectional one.

The same part is available from other online electronic retailers, and similar parts are available from other manufacturers, from DigiKey or other retailers.

Edited by Coulomb
Font went weird.

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