2 hours ago, Scorp007 said:

Those 2 are great settings and not considered. They are to the user's requirements and needs to be changed when having LS or not. 

I don't like APL as a setting for no2 as the voltage range can be bad for some loads. I only use UPS. Too many people get flickering LEDs and PCs switching off due to the longer time to switch over when grid is lost. 

Due to rainy weather causes my winter yields for 2023 to be close to summer yield. Yes looking at peak yields in summer can be better than winter but systems all differ and no way can I say the next guy will have the same yield or better or worse than mine. LS is also another variable out of our control just like the weather. 

2023 yields in picture. 

well new development since changing those settings.  My microwave wont go off ...seems to be working on its own but very slowly...

44 minutes ago, NickPowell said:

well new development since changing those settings.  My microwave wont go off ...seems to be working on its own but very slowly...

What else can happen? 🤔

Cannot explain it. We're you feeding from the battery or from the grid?

2 hours ago, NickPowell said:

Yes true.  What would the voltage setting be then for 95% and 45%?  they are 48v 200ah batteries.

Thanks

Nick

There's a couple charts floating around the forum showing rough SOC Vs voltage for 15s and 16s batteries

Use them as a guide, not gospel

1 hour ago, madness_za said:

There's a couple charts floating around the forum showing rough SOC Vs voltage for 15s and 16s batteries

Use them as a guide, not gospel

This table per cell in the left column can be used. The 48V column is for 16 cell 48V batteries. 

 

21 hours ago, Scorp007 said:

Yes looking at peak yields in summer can be better than winter but systems all differ and no way can I say the next guy will have the same yield or better or worse than mine. LS is also another variable out of our control just like the weather. 

100% agree but IMO there's no way of planning/designing for success/efficiency unless there's a clear answer to this:

On 2024/01/24 at 1:14 PM, JayMardern said:

Is your idea to keep some battery capacity on standby so that you don't need to worry about the burden of fully charging them from empty? Do you have an idea as to your household's daytime vs nighttime usage?

 

1 hour ago, JayMardern said:

100% agree but IMO there's no way of planning/designing for success/efficiency unless there's a clear answer to this:

 

Great content provided on your system and the proposed doubling up. The OP already has a system in place and that cannot be changed for now. 

I read the critical thing now is to try and help @NickPowell with charging his batteries in a better way. For comms related I cannot help and would try using USR to prevent charging hassles. 

Anybody that can contribute why the microwave won't switch off after some very minor changes to battery levels of charging. 

Edited January 25, 20242 yr by Scorp007

Hi Everyone,

I have spent time last night reading up and understanding bulk and float charges.  As I am using the USE setting with my batteries which are 48V batteries, I have calculated that 57V as a bulk charge will charge batteries to 95% and a float charge of 52V will keep the batteries from discharging below 70%

From the discussion I see I might have not cleared what im trying to achieve with my setup.

Essentially I am trying to be offgrid but only using the grid charge for emergencies where theres not much sunlight to keep the batteries charged.  The idea is that during the day, the solar panels only will charge the batteries to 95%.  At night the batteries will work exclusively but must not discharge below 50%.  If the batteries go below say 48% then utility must come on if solar is not available to charge the batteries until the sun is available again then utility will switch off and the solar will charge the batteries.  BUT the idea is that theres enough capacity between 50% and 95% of the battery to run the house so it never discharges below 50% but if it ever does thats where utility must come on to charge as well.

Now that i think the bulk and float charges are set.  I still need to set program 20 and program 21 as well as program 60 and 61.

Program 20 - Battery stop discharging when grid is available --> 48v (not sure here)
So the battery can discharge even if grid is avaiable so ive set this low like 44v
Program 21 - Battery stop Charging voltage when grid is available --> 50v but sometimes set to FUL (full).  I need to charge only to 95%
Solar is to charge the battery even if grid is available.  Do I set this low as well or high?
Program 60 - Low DC Cut off Voltage on AC output 2 --> 45.5v (not sure here... battery specified is USE so not sure if percentage comes up)
What needs to be set here? Low direct current cut off on AC output 2? DC im assuming is DC from solar or DC from Utility?? or both??  What should the cut off be then in that case considering the solar must charge exclusively and only use utility if battery drops below 50%
Program 61 - Setting discharge time on AC output 2 --> 30 or ddS - not sure here either
Current set on DDS not sure what it shoudl be on
 

Thanks everyone in advance.

Kind Regards

Nick

Edited January 25, 20242 yr by NickPowell

 

2 hours ago, Scorp007 said:

The OP already has a system in place and that cannot be changed for now.

 

Supply-side yes, but demand is definitely changing:

 

On 2024/01/22 at 12:28 PM, NickPowell said:

I have 3 x 10KW Solar Lithium Batteries 48v (200ah) soon to add a 4th 10kw.

 

On 2024/01/22 at 3:52 PM, NickPowell said:

I plan on installing a large heatpump for a swimming pool im putting in so hence the decision to add another battery...also there will be yet another pump for the pool as well (so 4 pumps...not necessarily all running at the same time)

 

 

These items items are an additional 20-30kWh (!) or more depending on the pumps' size; on an already marginal supply this 100% needs to be considered for this desire to be feasible:

On 2024/01/22 at 3:52 PM, NickPowell said:

Well im pretty much off grid if I can put it that way - borehole and solar.

 

As for the installation issues - the faulty inverter, sub-optimal battery charging and weird microwave behaviour sound like the installer needs to be called back in, they shouldn't have left it like this!

5 minutes ago, JayMardern said:

 

 

Supply-side yes, but demand is definitely changing:

 

 

 

 

These items items are an additional 20-30kWh (!) or more depending on the pumps' size; on an already marginal supply this 100% needs to be considered for this desire to be feasible:

 

As for the installation issues - the faulty inverter, sub-optimal battery charging and weird microwave behaviour sound like the installer needs to be called back in, they shouldn't have left it like this!

Not all pumps run at the same time.  The borehole pump only comes on when the tanks drop below half.  The irrigation pump comes on at 4am in the morning. The house pump runs all the time but its an energy efficient one.  The pool pump more likely will be a 1.1KW will be set on timer.  I have also installed 9 solar water roof top heaters to heat the pool when its installed so the Heat Pump for the pool will only bridge the gap and not run the whole day.  40KW of battery storage and 24 solar panels generating 8000 to 10 000watts should support the household during the day and the batteries should be fine at night.

however I just need to get the settings on the inverter correct.  Call back the installer....hes here almost daily LOL and its been more trial and error.  Im hoping to get the proper settings without having to estimate and guess.

Thanks

20 hours ago, Scorp007 said:

This table per cell in the left column can be used. The 48V column is for 16 cell 48V batteries. 

 

would we use these values for bulk and float charging? or where would we set these values?

25 minutes ago, NickPowell said:

Not all pumps run at the same time.  The borehole pump only comes on when the tanks drop below half.  The irrigation pump comes on at 4am in the morning. The house pump runs all the time but its an energy efficient one.  The pool pump more likely will be a 1.1KW will be set on timer.  I have also installed 9 solar water roof top heaters to heat the pool when its installed so the Heat Pump for the pool will only bridge the gap and not run the whole day.  40KW of battery storage and 24 solar panels generating 8000 to 10 000watts should support the household during the day and the batteries should be fine at night.

however I just need to get the settings on the inverter correct.  Call back the installer....hes here almost daily LOL and its been more trial and error.  Im hoping to get the proper settings without having to estimate and guess.

Thanks

Although the house pump is energy efficient have you considered a pressure tank to reduce the number of starts/running permanently? This is also needed during non sun periods. 

1 minute ago, NickPowell said:

would we use these values for bulk and float charging? or where would we set these values?

These values are the SOC Vs voltage when not being charged/discharged. The voltage will be higher depending on the rate of charge. The higher the rate the higher the value. 

For 90% SOC you can use a value of about 3.39V and dependent on the age and condition of the battery. Sorry for not being specific but check during use to fine tune. 

16 minutes ago, Scorp007 said:

Although the house pump is energy efficient have you considered a pressure tank to reduce the number of starts/running permanently? This is also needed during non sun periods. 

there is a small presdure tank but would definitely be a good idea to put a bigger one