Get a proper meter measuring real power (W). The efergy and fluke will only measure apparent power (VA). 

 

Does it matter? It will not be out by 3kwh over 8 hours?

Aaah okay, so it's not your QUIESCENT load that's 400W, it's actual night-time load. Phew... :-)

My load is pretty similar. Ranges between 250W and 400W at night. I can get that down significantly... all I have to do is switch everything off, probably leaving on only the fridge. But you know how it goes, the SO says there must be security lights on around the house, the DSTV PVR must remain on to record stuff, there has to be a light on in a nearby room for the kids' bathroom excursions at night, the DSL modem and computers all stay on... etc etc.

 

I simply programmed my Multiplus to go back to grid when the batteries reach a certain voltage (TTT explained elsewhere that it's much better to use an Ah counter, like the Victron BMV-7xx, but this still works for me). This flips back to Eskom around 9pm.

My long term plan is to add solar and batteries until I can coast through the night. Once I reach that point, my entire baseline will be off-grid. This will be a significant accomplishment for me, because my baseline is easily 12kwh a day.

My long term plan is to add solar and batteries until I can coast through the night. Once I reach that point, my entire baseline will be off-grid. This will be a significant accomplishment for me, because my baseline is easily 12kwh a day.

Amen brother!

 

What I learned is to reduce the baseline by replacing the inefficient power devices, costs a small fortune on their own, but, having said that, by replacing it you save a lot more, and your expenditure to power these devices reduce substantially for you have to keep in mind the replacement of parts, panels, batteries over time.

 

Therein this: What do you need to power versus what do you want to power ... huge difference in price. 

 

But, having said all that, nothing is as cheap as switching things off when not in use. 

Just to clarify the 3Kw/h is 400w per hr over 8 hers (3.2kw) this is my total night load, including a AA fridge, alarm, e fence and a few LED security lights. 

 

 

Ah BIG light bulb moment. You are using that energy wisely. You wake in the morning and your wife thinks you are the greatest.

 

Our overnight draw is minimal. I switch the computer, TV and the microwave off.  Once everybody is in bed the only things drawing current are the fridge, freezer, wifi router, DSTV "box" and a night light in my son's bedroom. This amounts to less than 100W unless the fridge and freezer come on at the same time.  

Chris my overnight load is almost exactly the same as yours, ( BTW I'm testing an Auto Switch to move the fridge back to Grid after 11pm until sunup ensuring I stay below 75W all night).  

I hope this will allow the inverter to go into its low power state (economy mode).  

Now this is where I need some help chaps !  

 

How the hell do you put the inverter (Axpert) into this Power Save mode.  

 

I see the option in the manual, but I can select it from the panel.? (Disabled)

I saw this option once in the Watch Power, utility, but then this entire menu disappeared. ?

I think the "Power save mode" is only available when the inverter is in a specific mode of operation ?

 

Has anyone been able to use the 'Power Saving' or 'Economy' or "Sleep' mode successfully ?

Thank you. Keep us posted on how well they work?

Hi TTT

Today the sun has shone brightly and the Chinese battery balancers have worked most of absorb phase. My Victron BMV midpoint alarm (set to 1%) has not sounded at all during the morning so at last after 3 months it appears my batteries have been nudged into balance. My findings are that batteries behave perfectly well during bulk and float and that the only go out of balance during late absorb. The amount of time that they are out of balance gets less and less. An Aussie engineer warned me it would be some time to get the batteries in balance, with one or two stubbornly continuing to go out of balance. A 1% deviation would be equivalent to a 0.2V deviation so about 0.5V from the highest to the lowest. When I started more than 3 months ago there was often more than 1V difference between the highest and lowest. I will keep on monitoring and give feedback.

Chris