Tracsec

Hi guys, 
Have a look at the below YouTube link at 7:40 minutes. It has the pin outs. 
 
 

Growatt = BMS port and Battery = IN port
Also double check your Dip switches to be on 0110 on host battery, 0000 on all slaves. 
Double check the comms cable pin outs are correct as well. 

Morning All,
I was actually onsite as well assisting with the firmware loads I received them from Growatt - but file names, versions and sizes matches what @SiliconKid supplied 100%. Tried on two sites where the Growatts were supplied by the same installer - and in both cases only firmware 1 loaded. I gave feedback to Growatt and will update if I receive a response. The 2nd firmware didn't error - it just never started - counted down on the "sending start"  from 999 to 0 - then starts again - nothing happens..
@Tsa - I'm battling to find the manual or link that refers to the CORRECT pin outs - The V2.0 Growatt manual (page 8 only shows the one side - IE - Pin1, Pin2 - not the crossed side  - but I clearly remember seeing this somewhere - maybe Growatt sent me the engineering schematics of the pin outs at some point - trying to find it again. Where did you find the correct pin outs?
Whats interesting is that I assume a correct BMS cable is not supplied in the box - seems some distributors throw a cable in the box, others not - so wondering if this is not the reason why people are struggling - incorrect cables mostly.
What also seems to be a challenge is different manual versions. Dyness Powerbox (lets say V1.0) shows the dip switches like the pictures earlier posted -  off/on/off/off for Growatt - but the latest powerbox manual (V2?)  makes a distinction. It says : "for Growatt uses off/on/off/off" - but then also "for Growatt SPF off/on/on/off" - added in a later revision.. confusing as hell.
Just glad people are finally having some success with it talking properly.
Both sites seem to show the "newer" FW:

Edit:  Found this is a Dyness manual:
Seems Pin out is 1 - > 2, 3 -> 1

 

I have been through the process with Dyness & Growatt and still have an issue where my batteries would switch off supply for a second, basically trip house power,  and then reconnect as if nothing was ever wrong. 
This would happen at random times when running off battery only. Sometimes minutes after switching to battery, other times after 5+ hours only. SOC at that stage is still 75%+ based on battery SOC LEDs. This only happens when running setting (05) as Li and profile L01. When running as USE it works perfectly, not such power disconnect issue.. What I have seen when this happens is Warning 04 (low battery) and warning 20 (BMS comms issue) when this dip occurs. 
Dip switches I was told to set to 0 1 1 0 on master and also using the cable that was supplied with inverter(black) which goes from BMS on inverter to the master. (not the straight through BMS cable supplies with batteries). 
I have not done the FW upgrade yet, but after speaking to the guys at Dyness they confirmed that this is a battery FW issue and that FW needs updating. They however do not supply this to customers, but plan on coming to SA once Covid clears and travel is allowed. Still not sure how this will resolve the FW issue on MY batteries, but have asked them to keep me updated on this. Apparently their remote upgrade facility is still in development. 
Would be great if someone else with Dyness and Growatt can test the same. Maybe its a faulty cable in my case, or something else, but Dyness confirming FW issue, I stopped further troubleshooting and just run it in USE no issues (as suggested by Dyness). 
Also gave me these parameters to set in USE mode. 
"parameters,max charge voltage 53.5 V,float voltage 51V,cut off voltage46V,max charge/discharge current 50A(for 2 units(batteries)"
 

Share your system mode screen. 
CT is only needed if you want to supply loads before the inverter and not needed if you only using it for the essential load. 

Summary of findings/testing of Sunsynk 8.8kW using Aux Circuit for load shedding.
I put together the attached doc to save future buyers like me having to spend so long in finding out what should be explained in user manual, as well as installer manual.
Thanks @Achmat and @Johann1982 for your assistance and patience.
Hope this is of assistance. 
                        Sunsynk Aux Circuit.pdf    

There are 3 connections on the inverter. 
Grid connection. This is the grid input connection but is also an output if the grid is available. If there are loads after the municipal meter but before the inverter, these loads can be supplied by the inverter from either solar or batteries up to a maximum of 8kw
Load or UPS connection. This is the primary load connection for what you want to power in the event of grid failure. The loads that can be supplied from either solar or batteries is limited to 8kw. If your loads on this connection exceed 8kw, the inverter will pull the difference from the grid if its available. The maximum pass through from the grid is 90A. As an example, if your loads are 12kw on this connection, the inverter will draw 8kw from solar or batteries if available and the balance of 4kw from the grid. Pass through value is what the inverter will pull from the grid for loads supplied by the inverter that is more than the available DC battery or solar availability. 
Aux connection. This is a configurable input or output connection. If its used as a secondary output, the same pass through principle is applied. Total pass through of 90A is shared between these two connections. 
If the grid is down the inverter can still invert up to 16kw for 10 seconds from available DC sources. 
I do think they assume that the installer or electrician would be aware of what these terms are as they do state pass through limit on the specifications and they would explain these to the homeowner. 

Thank you. I may very well have to do it like this. 3 storeys up though so if I can avoid this I will try!

I am not sure what the regs require, but my install has a separate galvanised pipe and sprague for the panels' earth conduit.