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Everything posted by Rdelete

  1. Also still learning, Sunsynk 8kw with bulls. I have my setting like this. As I experiment and learn, I am hoping to get @Leshen on site to help with the Earth Bonding, and would have asked, But as we are on a same journey as you and I was to afraid to ask what you have now asked .......... I am controlling my battery output like this. I seem to be to only one doing this. I also have the max sell to 40w. seem to remember this has a influence on back to the meter?? But not sure. Setting those to less watts as I have done means the battery never exeeds over the wattage. Why? well I should have installed 50mm for battery cable but at the time only did 35mm. Then I discovered that the battery will exceed the drawn amps on the cable. Yes I can change the cables, but lets learn first. This steps it down gradually nicely .....
  2. I am also keen to learn on this issue as I have two 6 x 450w strings that are similar and one always is different to the other in watts, amps etc and hope to learn from your issue. Maybe post a picture on your panels and what you see??? The visual may help
  3. I replaced all my 7AH with the 8AH from take a lot at around R550 a battery long before inverter purchase. Thats Electric fence (Exactly the same as yours), centurion swing gate motor and the alarm which was a big problem when on 4 hours load shedding the gate and alarm stop working. problem solved. Have not replaced a battery since. Your gate / garage doors dont work without a battery. Lucky the fence does with out battery but has to have AC all the time. I have not replaced any battery yet, definitely more than two years. https://www.takealot.com/12v-8ah-battery-lead-acid-gel/PLID59533565
  4. I can certainly comment on the Inverter Sunsynk / Deye etc. Brilliant choice. We have ours working with a basic install about 10 days now. I setup the solarman app and its telling me I am 95 percent utilizing my own generated power. I have a smaller UPS Essential load like you, House plugs, But that said its Dishwasher (day use on PV only, not battery at night). fridge washing machine. But the amazing part is how it back feeds into the non essential using PV and Battery. geyser, pool - Borehole pump in the day from solar after a full battery. The nighttime I am still learning. I have the BLSB (Bulls) battery.
  5. Thanks, I was wondering what it was and my other mentor >>>> Google came up with that , I would check on this forum if anyone has experience with these. I learned how important a battery is to your installation also being quite new but growing by the day and by reading on this forum. My thoughts are you have a 5 kw Deye and this battery seems to compliment that 5kw. what are your other choices?
  6. You need Eskom and you will have cold water at night time load Shedding, or use up battery to heat water at 2am. You will never have cold water and never be reliant on Eskom. The 48kg are huge, even 19kg lasts long, Have spare like I do and when one is empty I change to the other and have at three months to fill the spare.
  7. I built my home made battery charger to help my people that work at my house. I gave them each a 7AH battery and a china mall R35 LED light. I also gave them a LPG gas single cooker with bottle.Bring back the battery and I give you a charged one. I bought a number of these batteries and solar charge them. The cost was around R240 and R35. Its changed their life. No more paraffin.Good light for at least a week or two. Now imagine Eskom had a few of these power points. You bring me a 7AH and I give you a charged one for say R5.00. And I charge it with solar. You will change the life of 10 Million people, Instead they squandered Billions on cars, houses, overseas holidays etc etc. R275 to change a persons life???
  8. @Deez I was thinking about this topic. My geysers are covered by Home Loan insurance. Lets say they are not, and I have made no PV investment to heat the water. What are my options >> new Geyser. Yes but then a 150l > How do I heat it?? EV tubes. No thanks and pretty costly. PV Maybe but also costly ?? >>>best hot water ?? GAS?? Yes please. Yes yes. No Eskom, no power, far less dependency. The difference it made in our lives taking out the electric hob and Oven and putting in the Gas was Huge. Our gas usage is 19KG about every 4 - 5 months at R500 a cylinder refill. Endless no worries every during every load shedding. Even hot water for coffee on a whistle kettle. imagine a geyser that works on very little gas to heat water when required. Bye bye eskom completely
  9. @phalaborwa This has been a most interesting chat topic. Who would have known. Thank you for your input. Down the line this will be used for some advise and use. If there is a passion it spills over and solar is out passion.
  10. I would not be discourage from using any 2 KW, however the Geysewise has some positives on the PTC element. Either way dont be discouraged using a smaller KW element. I agree with Vassen. it will take longer to heat ,use less power but longer.
  11. @Deez the PV system has a dual element 900w DC and 1500w / 900w recommended for 150l and 2000w AC /900w DC for the 200l. The 900w heats the water via DC (PV) to a special MPPT controller to the PTC element. Yes it heats it. Even at 900w(200l). The day would start at 55C, then the morning people shower/ bath 26C - 30C. At the time I use the water 55C around midday, I am old school and shower quick, now at about 44C, come 3pm to 5pm back at 55C again. I also have the 150L , works even better as its smaller at 900w naturally. This is winter
  12. @Vassen @Deez Exactly. I have three years experience on these. Geyserwise dont use a element in the element if you buy from them. This is the splab on them. Its a bakelite material I believe that does the heating An immersion heater element that offers inherent safety and improved functionality over typical resistance-wire heaters. Our new technology utilises Positive Temperature Co-efficient (PTC) chips as the heat source. You can even buy this for any geyser without all the PV stuff https://www.geyserwise.com/products/elements/2200-w-ptc-ac-element/ So that would not hold true at all about a 2 KW. I always see the geyser as a large kettle. Would a smaller element in a kettle have a big difference. Say you put a 1800w in a 2500w after it broke??
  13. @Leshen I see you are often doing updates to the Sunsynk. Would it be possible to share with us how that is achieved? Who does the update and how is the serial number found? Thank you for all your wise help and time
  14. My thoughts when I read this. I have a torch. I used it until there was only a faint light, It has four batteries in parallel, I open and only change two. Torch is working great after only changing two of the four. The other two are old and not the same voltage/ amp anymore. Should not be a problem? Lots of conflicting information. Did you pay R4000.00 for two 200w or was there other things? Do you have a china mall. I made a small battery solar charger a few years back with a 100w panal and a PVM charge controller to charge a 7AH(gate , security etc battery). I think the whole lot set me back under R800.00. Something like this. https://www.takealot.com/all?_sb=1&_r=1&_si=059e7f3422a6404cd83dffe1afcb9847&qsearch=Solar Charge Controller
  15. @EdDeehttps://www.quora.com/What-happens-when-connecting-two-batteries-of-different-amp-hour-rating-in-parallel
  16. This is what having a battery looks like. this was around 830pm. My self usage on this Sunsynk after setting up solarman and monitoring three days so far - 95 percent self usage. In other words my usage from city power is 5 percent when either battery or PV are not able to support the installation. Thats allowing the Sunsynk to use essential and non essential load. My essential is low as per my diagram. Fridge, deep freeze , house plugs, lights etc. non essential has the high power Amps. Geyser, pool pump, borehole, oven, garrage.
  17. I have the BLSB, The deal was 29k for a 6.2kw, but in hindsight the Hubble gets installed by Leshen, and with this will be the @leshen support, and he has a 10 out of 10 rating. On the BLSB I was on my own, was dropped off on the paving, it did not even come with a manual, and calling the support number was very disappointing, but its a great battery, just, you are on you own.There was going to be a charge for installation, cables, fuses etc, on top of the battery purchase. Since then I have been given a copy of the install. Its got the cable sizes and some sunsynk setting, however no mention of much else. Like I want to know the best install location. Vertically or Horizontal, Is there a cabinet available, Is there rails? How many are supported in a single location and probably more questions i dont know yet. Whats the support if there are problems??
  18. You are reducing the two new 100amp/hr to 80amp/hr in series, and in this config you cannot keep them separate as @Vassen said. I played around with this kind of home made for some years, this year we only went into solar properly because of eskom. We have debated at length the geyers. I have the Geyserwise system (12K at the time), most people use the solar inverter. So far best solution is gas, do you have good gas supplies in your town look into using a gas setup for geyser. The geyser is just a much bigger kettle really? A gas setup is by far also the most cost effective.
  19. If everything is correct it can only be the firmware, I have a 8kw so it wont be the same but he E-416 is the same
  20. Everything here is correct but you are not feeding back to the house. Suspicion is CT clamp wrong position or house is powering on somewhere else, say another phase.
  21. My Understanding is this should be before any Earth or circuit breaker but after the municipality meter/CB in feed. Like the other guys here, mine is before anything in the DB board. I had to extend the incoming *RED cable, and I am only using the "red", to accommodate the CT around it prior to the earth leakage. Our house is three phase so putting it on the red before was important to work properly. My thoughts are I want you , Sunsynk to cover all non essential circuits not configured to the load also , feed back to incoming grid but not past CT clamp expect if battery needs from PV or Grid. In my case this is, Geyser when on Eskom, pool pump, now running in the day and not at night, borehole pump, oven. My self usage today was 95 percent on solarman. Regards
  22. This is certainly is looking correct. CT is correct, Battery is working, Load good, Strange how you have no use on the house like Nexuss said>>??? This is now taken in the day and the other was when there is no PV voltage (Watts) I am keen to know what your digital said the usage from grid was compared to what its showing here. Your 100w is working as well, thats good that I learned as well from Kieth. Also maybe go back to the evening when there is no PV. That certainly did not add up to me.
  23. That make so much sense, When you watch the sun on your panels , I see some getting the sun, or loosing , before others. My one string is always better then the other , even though they are identical in make and size and in a row. I can only guess its the way the sun gets to the first string or maybe cable length. Having the string panel partly on another roof will really affect the effectiveness of the panels. Thank you for your valuable input ...
  24. Hi, Having just gone through this, I installed 12 X 450w, 2 strings of 6 on a 8kw Sunsynk. My surprise was that I get no where near 5400w, Because its winter. The most I saw was about 4200w. I have still to setup my monitoring and to get the proper numbers. Summer will be much better. Also my panels are 11a, Most I have seen is 9.6A. Your two important values. Startup voltage, max voltage allowed per MPPT, including panel Amps (I read sunsynk can clip if higher than spek)( each PV input on the inverter). Dont go over that top voltage, ever, There is so much YouTube from Kieth on Sunsynk explaining this. The only advice I could give on the solar panel is make sure its a well known brand and has the Tier one approval. They all offer similar warrentee, around 10 - 15 year but 25 years expected at some loss percentage a year. But I think. What will the value of say a 450w be in 10 years?? So to to me it was important to say, Whats my budget, what can I get for the money and what is the biggest Watts I can use and buy up front that will fit the inverter. Fewer panels more wattage less roof space, but I dont want to go over the inverter specs. And I love the Sunsynk, that was a great buy.
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