Derek Ramos

It seems like dc surge protection is hard to come by in a 600v 20ka and 40ka rating. question, is a 60ka rating ok to use for your solar pv DB as I was quoted on a 40ka but my suppliers don’t have stock, only 60ka

@Shafonice install… did you land up connecting the main supply for the inverter before or after the earth leakage from your main DB

https://www.sunsynk.org/lithium-batteries spec sheet for the one on the power store I think the sslb1 is the other sunsynk battery that is a 0.5c. Which is the one I posted earlier of the product manual

This is straight from my sunsynk sslb1 battery product manual. Excuse the bad picture. I’ve got 3 lithium batteries still waiting to be installed yet I sit here taking photos by candlelight 😂 mine are 0.5C , max continuous discharge 50amps

@AC-DCyour installation is great! This install with the use of your trunking and layout is what inspired my install 👍🏼 Thanks

@Piper well I was hoping this exercise would be similar to building my crypto mining rig, built every, fiddled for a month or so to get it running at its most efficient state and now I only look at it once it awhile. It’s just works! But I’ll take your word for it and of many others that this isn’t going to be a once off and forget. I’ll check back in at 6 months if I’m still fiddling 😂

@Steve87, @YellowTapemeasure, @Tariq, thank you for all your encouraging comments!

Thank you… after some great advise from my wife 😀I have made a few changes to my original idea which will work out much better because I have to add another separate trunking for my dc cables. Either way I now have a very clear picture to the end. Will keep posting updates 👍🏼

Here is the link for my install. If anyone wants to have a look. 👍🏼

So after lots of research on this forum and a crazy amount of help supplied by the members from the forum I am finally on my way with my install. equipment used: 1x 8kw sunsynk inverter 3 x 5.12kw sunsynk SSLB1 batteries 16 x Jinko 545watt panels(S&W says18 is to much) 1 x Merson 160amp battery disconnect with 160amp fuses. OBO trunking and fittings from o-line, will be using 25mm sunsynk battery cables doubled up to the battery disconnect, 35mm cable from the battery disconnect to the inverter. 90% of my switchgear will be Onesto from MCE. special thanks to @WannabeSolarSparkyfor providing me with a great amount of information regarding this install. Because I am only one man doing this install it will take a couple of weeks so I’ll post progression pictures as I go along. I’ll also be able to answer any questions but MOST of all I would like any criticism or advise from all the experts on how or what I could do to better the install. panels and dc electrics will come in the following 2 weeks or so thanks gentlemen!

@Nexussthanks so much

Earth neutral bonding on the sunsynk inverters…

@NexussSo you saying that adding an extra cable on each end of the batteries, one on positive and one on negative on those open battery connectors is correct. So essentially I will have 4 cables, 2 positive and two negative going into my battery disconnect fuses. like this attached picture?

@Nexuss thanks for the replay I’ve attached a picture of my cable, -40 to 125 degrees. Doesn’t say much else @Jacques Ester thanks for the reply, i would consider a busbar but it’s just going to mess up my half built install. But I can still install it if I had no other choice. Regarding that install could I connect the busbar under my dc fuse disconnect and the run each battery separately to the busbar? So I’ll have 3 positives and 3 negatives on a busbar connected to my disconnect. please also seen attached picture, when you say double up the cables would I just connect an extra positive cable and extra negative cable on the spares connectors on opposite ends of the battery pack @P1000thanks for the reply, are you talking about what I have just asked Jacques in the above quote of adding an extra cable on each side of the battery on the spare connectors ?

Perfect, thank you.

Hi, I have 3 x 5.12kw 100ah batteries from sunsynk(sslb1). The sunsynk battery cable pack has 25mm cable size with the plug connectors. Are these cable sizes sufficient? i read the Hubble vs pylontech topic and @Leshenmention that the pylontech 25mm cables were not sufficient. So im not sure what to do. I can join the connectors to 35mm cable but the connectors will remain 25mm. Someone also mentioned that I can add a 25mm cable on the spare connector on the last batteries positive and on the first batteries negative. So going into the battery disconnect fuses I will have 2x 25mm positive and 2x25mm negative cables . Then from the top of the fuse box I can wire in 35mm or 50mm cable to the 8kw sunsynk inverter? Would this help or is it a kak idea? thanks

Someone told me that I should put my DC wiring from my panels in a separate trunking from my ac wiring? Is this correct or doesn’t it matter. when dc and ac wiring gets to the inverter they all close together so why would you need separate trunking?

@WannabeSolarSparkythanks for the help, I’ll look through the manuals and see what I can find

No not really, I’ve posted about this and someone sent me a diagram, but the diagram doesn’t have surge protection or fuse sizing. So it’s not really helpful I do commercial refrigeration so I am constantly wiring up 3 phase control circuits and I’m generally working on 400amp - 1000amp ac plants. The wiring is no problem and the common sense is an essential tool 😀 as I have made mistakes in the past 16 years that’s blown my eyelashes away so I’m well aware of the dangers involved in electrical. I just don’t understand why it’s a big deal to get the information, I mean for example I have a 63amp earth leakage on my house broad (90% of South African homes have this). Im using a 8kw interver, Half the guys that have solar use an 8kw inverter, isn’t there a standard that says right… you should use this breaker with that size surge protector with these size fuses before it goes to the inverter. I mean this would be standard sizing for everyone that has an 8kw inverter and 63amp earth leakage. Size may differ if you have a 5kw inverter. then from the 8kw inverter to your essential load the standard should be, right… you have a 8kw inverter and your essential load is Xamps, your breaker size should be this and your surge protection should be that. If some asks me these question about a refrigeration plant I can tell you almost anything just out of my head regarding electrical. I understand that it’s different when you have dc panels because of the amps and strings, but I mean how many people use 545watt panel that draw 13amps, I mean surely there is a standard for these things. If I walk into a solar shop they will tell me exactly what size cable I need for the panels but then suck there thumb when I ask about the size fuses and surge protection. it’s like I have to go hire a solar company to come out to tell me what surge protection I need but then some might not be willing because I didn’t buy the equipment from them. So if there are any solar companies on this forum then maybe I must just pay someone to give me the correct sizing? I don’t know 🤷🏻‍♂️

@WannabeSolarSparky Hi, so I’ve started my install, I got sunsynk batteries because Ellie’s gave me a great price, haven’t got the panels yet but I will in the next week. Could you please give me some information regarding your electrical boards? 1. Your Incoming grid board, what size ac breaker do you use? My main house board has a 63amp earth leakage, should I also use a 63amp ac breaker in the boards going to my inverter? What size surge protectors do you use and do you connect one the live and one on the neutral, or do you only have one on the live? Do you need any fuses in this board? 2. Your essential load board, what’s the size of your 2 pole breaker and your surge protection? This boards supply is coming from your inverter to your essential loads DB? Could you also explain why you have a earth/neutral bond relay and what’s it for? 3. battery protection, I’m assuming because I have 3 x 5.12kw batteries that a 160amp fuse would be sufficient. But because I might get a 4th battery later that I could get a 200amp disconnect and use 160amp fuses until I get the 4th battery and only then change the fuses to 200amp? 4. My solar panels will be 13odd amps per string, could I use a double pole disconnect breaker for the live and neutral? What size should it be? And my fuses, one for the live and one for the neutral per string? I’m guessing that 15-18 amp fuses should be enough? But I’m unsure on the size of the surge protectors, what sizes do you use. im sorry for all the questions but it seems like getting info on the right size electrics is becoming challenging. I can’t find any info on the internet and not to many people are willing to help. I have no problem wiring it all up it’s just I don’t know what sizes. any info you have will be greatly appreciated

I’ve just bought a sunsynk 8kw inverter and 3 x 5.12kw sunsynk batteries from Ellie’s because they are one of my suppliers. So once I’m all installed and I’ve issued my paperwork for warranty purposes I will let you know if they have extended my warranty to 10years.

@giorgosThank you so much

@giorgosthank you

Hi, could someone please point me in the right direction on building my DB boards for an 8kw sunsynk. so of what I’ve read is that I need a DB board for my panels with a dc breaker and dc fuses before it goes into my inverter(18x 545watt Jinko, 2 strings) then a dc fuse box from my batteries to my inverter( 3x 5.12kw sunsynk 100ah), then I need a DB board from my inverter that will supply my essentials to my house DB board my ac power from my meter should have a board just before my inverter to protect it from power spikes and lighting and that same ac power will also supply my non essentials. please correct me if I am wrong in any of this and if possible please help me with the sizing of any of the switch gear for the components I have. Please note that I’m not just winging this without experience, I understand house electrical and for me to wire up a house DB board is a piece of pie, also my main line of work is commercial refrigeration and I am constantly wiring up control circuits for industrial 3 phase refrigeration plants. (16years) my problem is I’m not familiar with solar and with dc power, which is why I’m trying to learn. thank you, any information will be greatly appreciated

As far as I can tell after doing this exercise, everyone who has a Hubble loves them and performs well, everyone who has a pylontech loves them and performs well, there was also testing down on these batteries in Australia and they performed really well. A couple of installers really like the BSL batteries. I found dyness batteries at a really good price and spoke to an installer which thinks they are also great batteries. i think with the batteries I’ve mentioned, buying any one of them would be a good buy and you shouldn’t have any problems. I have also read that dyness are batteries made by pylontech staff that left pylontech and branched off to make there own battery. Not sure how true this is though. as to my very limited knowledge, pylontech are the only batteries I know of that have gone through a proper test (around 3000 cycles I think) in Australia with a number of other batteries and they were one of the top performers saying that they were looking at a 60% state of health after 4900 cycles. im new to solar so this is just based on research done.