Jaxone

@fhocorp I've run with it for a while now just to see how it works as one of the Pylontech cells is fcked ... but I realized the passive BMS not good enough for balancing so I started going the other way around. Installed JK BMS on the Pylontech pouches ... that goes a bit better :)
Although JK is not the best when measuring SOC it still better to balance.
Now I am in the process of replacing ALL the Pylontech BMS boards with JK.
In order to be able to control both JK and Pylontech at the same time , I have installed one iBMS for JK batteries and one iBMS for the Pylontech, this way I sum up the data and send one stream to the inverter so everything works together.
Link to iBMS : https://shop.jamestronics.com/

Will make a review in a short time :) and explain the functions and how all works together.

@fhocorp I've run with it for a while now just to see how it works as one of the Pylontech cells is fcked ... but I realized the passive BMS not good enough for balancing so I started going the other way around. Installed JK BMS on the Pylontech pouches ... that goes a bit better :)
Although JK is not the best when measuring SOC it still better to balance.
Now I am in the process of replacing ALL the Pylontech BMS boards with JK.
In order to be able to control both JK and Pylontech at the same time , I have installed one iBMS for JK batteries and one iBMS for the Pylontech, this way I sum up the data and send one stream to the inverter so everything works together.
Link to iBMS : https://shop.jamestronics.com/

Will make a review in a short time :) and explain the functions and how all works together.

@fhocorp I've run with it for a while now just to see how it works as one of the Pylontech cells is fcked ... but I realized the passive BMS not good enough for balancing so I started going the other way around. Installed JK BMS on the Pylontech pouches ... that goes a bit better :)
Although JK is not the best when measuring SOC it still better to balance.
Now I am in the process of replacing ALL the Pylontech BMS boards with JK.
In order to be able to control both JK and Pylontech at the same time , I have installed one iBMS for JK batteries and one iBMS for the Pylontech, this way I sum up the data and send one stream to the inverter so everything works together.
Link to iBMS : https://shop.jamestronics.com/

Will make a review in a short time :) and explain the functions and how all works together.

I only got RS485 between Deye and Pylontech to work after wiring pin 6 as GND. Without that, they won’t talk—Deye won’t communicate with Pylontech. Tested on US5000 (master).
RJ45 wiring:
PIN 6 – GND PIN 7 – RS485A PIN 8 – RS485BInverter: Lithium, protocol 12 (Pylontech RS485)
Pylontech DIP (master): ON OFF OFF OFF

Update: Problem solved. I have replaced the flimsy wires that came with the battery case that were going from BMS to battery and terminals and from battery to the terminals.
Now the battery works as intended (or as I think it should) and draws same or more power than the 74Ah Pylontechs in any load conditions.

@Scorp007 Not sure I follow what you mean with the 2A ? Usually I calibrate with lab power supply and 10A.

Thanks everyone for the input.

Update: Problem solved. I have replaced the flimsy wires that came with the battery case that were going from BMS to battery and terminals and from battery to the terminals.
Now the battery works as intended (or as I think it should) and draws same or more power than the 74Ah Pylontechs in any load conditions.

@Scorp007 Not sure I follow what you mean with the 2A ? Usually I calibrate with lab power supply and 10A.

Thanks everyone for the input.

I got 2A from this statement placed yesterday. Glad to see you got all sorted out.
the Pylontech are discharging with 100-115W and the JK (even being an 100Ah battery) is only pulling 67-70W

You might find at such low levels like 2A you calibrate it just to find at over 50A you are having another mismatch. This happens a lot with the wide range of measurement. The same we can get on power meters when measuring say 5W when the meter is capable of 80x230=18400W.

This exactly support current measurement error theory.

Each battery has a slightly different internal resistance, even if they’re the same brand, age, and model. A typical 48 V LiFePO4 battery might have: R₁ = 20 mΩ, R₂ = 22 mΩ R₃ = 19 mΩ When placed in parallel, current divides inversely proportional to resistance:
I1 : I2 : I3 = 1/R1 : 1/R2 : 1/R3 So, the lowest-impedance battery will carry slightly more current.
At small loads (say <10 A per battery), the difference might be <1 A.
At higher loads (e.g. 100 A total), the spread could be 5–10 A or more between units. Even if the batteries are identical, unequal cable lengths, lugs, or terminal tightness can add milliohms of resistance — enough to skew current sharing. For example: 0.5 m of 35 mm² copper = ~0.25 mΩ.
If one cable is 20 cm longer or has an extra crimp, it can make a 2–3 % current difference at 100 A. That’s why busbar symmetry (same-length, same-gauge cables) is critical.
Batteries with slightly different state of charge or voltage calibration (BMS offsets, etc.) can also change current flow: The one with the highest resting voltage tends to discharge more. During charging, the one with lower voltage tends to accept more current (until it catches up). Over time, the BMS balancing compensates for this, but in systems mixing different ages or brands, differences can persist.

Needs to be more accurate than that.

1. Red DIP switches – config only.
2. Green 4-pin terminal block → RS485 / CAN port (for inverters / Modbus).
3. RJ45 #1 (with yellow cable) → UART1
4. RJ45 #2 (next to it, empty) → UART2
5. RJ45 #3 (next, empty) → UART3
6. RJ45 #4 (far right, empty) → reserved / internal use (some boards label this for RS232 / debug / factory flashing).
Here’s the standard JK layout (viewing the RJ45 socket from the front, clip up):
Pin 1 (leftmost) → GND
Pin 2 → TX
Pin 3 → RX
Pin 4 → VCC (5V out, limited)
Pin 5 → NC
Pin 6 → NC
Pin 7 → NC
Pin 8 (rightmost) → NC

In order to hit 100% all the cells have to be at 3,480V.

Thanks for taking the time :)
I never charge with more than 150A ... and never discharge with more than that either , so hitting the limit is not the main concern.. It was just me wanting to set up everything as close to "reality" as possible.
I have been monitoring the system for the past 2 days and everything seems to work as it should be... one thing I saw was the Farnkie never hit 100SOC , was always at 99 ... but did not had to much
sun last few days here in Northern europe , so we will see in the future.
The DYI case I bought came with a JK BMS ... to bad it can't talk with the Pylontechs in some way , else I would have tested the JK also.... Pyllontech board is to wide to fit into the custom 105ah DYI case
so I had to wrap something just to test.
Will see if I can somehow 3D print a custom case for the Pylontech BMS to smack it on the top of the case instead :) Time till tell.
Also gave it a proper name now 🤣

For the past 3 years I have been running with a Deye12KW and 10x Pylontech US3000C.
Back in 2023 I sent a notice to Pylontech about one battery misbehaving and they told me to charge it full and let the stack sit for 24-48h ... since then I forgot about it and now it started to throw OV and of course Pylontech denied my warranty until now... we are still arguing and debating about the BMS role and #(^T#*$^T@#$T #HFIG#F ....

Anyway as I still have 10 good batteries and can not run Pylontech BMS with any other BMS on the market I needed to replace this run away battery and still be able to work with a PACK and control the batteries by BMS rather
than voltage.. So I decided to play around a bit ... bought a defective US2000C , bought 16x 105AH Prismatic cells and built a little Frankenstein. Frankenstain was not pretty but was alive :)


Now , all good but we know the US2000C only has 50Ah .. same BMS though as the US3000C .. so I changed the capacity of the BMS to 100Ah (seems only possible to change to 50Ah , 74Ah and 100Ah ) as 105Ah not possible.
Then battery model changed into UP5000 ....


I've set the Frankenstein UP5000 as a master and put it in the pack...
All good until now , until I realized the UP5000 is rated (in the manual) at 0.5C / 50Ah.
Will this be an issue ?
Also when charging I can see this little Frankenstein will charge at almost 3 times the rate of the other 10 ?


Is there any firmware for US5000C floating around ? Willing to take the risk and try and flash it.
Ideas

Hi guys, let me share the recent update of my solar lab!
Originally I had 20kWp of PV on the roof, which was great, but the available space was not utilized optimally. Namely because there was the chimney blocking part of the west roof. Not to mention long shadows it casted each winter. After a couple of years I demolished that chimney (with the big help of my friend Kobra) and built a new fireplace, plus new chimney that freed the space on the roof.
For a shame, width and height of the panels that I had was not ideal, so even with the chimney removed I was still unable to utilize space optimally:

Therefore, I was continuously looking at the PV modules market each year, in order to find new panels that would fit better. As you might know, the manufacturers of PV modules are introducing new models each year, with their dimensions derived from the physical size of the actual solar cells used. And as solar cell makers are gradually able to produce bigger silicone crystals (that the cells are cut from), the PV modules are getting bigger and bigger, even when the number of cells per module stays within the standard amounts (like 72, 144 etc.).
Finally, in 2025 I found PV modules with the size of 1961 x 1134 mm, which was perfect for me as it would fill the roof from side to side almost completely, while still allowing me to put 4 rows of panels on it. So I went for 500Wp double-glass/bifacial, all-black panels and bought 3 palettes of them. Although these panels are bifacial, they are NOT transparent as the space between the cells is of opaque black color. On the other hand, putting bifacial panels on the dark roof makes no sense anyway. The price was excellent (for me) 77USD + VAT per panel. Let's see how these double-glass panels will hold up in the long run.



Firstly, I had and idea to remove all the old panels by myself, but found it being too labor-intensive. Looks like I am getting old, to be honest. So, after removing 18 panels out of 72 (with the help of my friend Vitek) I gave-up and called a third friend of mine, David, who is running a business of building large PV power plants for factories and other commercial customers. David's guys were amazing and after a couple of days, all the old panels were down, aluminium rails repositioned and leveled. Also, the new rails for fourth row of panels were added and finaly there was 86 panels installed.
West roof:
East roof:
Now it's 43 kWp of solar, composed of 6 strings:
East: 14s + 14s +14s
West: 14x +14s +16s
To be continued...

For those who want to combine older US2000 batteries with new UP5000 batteries:

After back and forth communications with Pylontech ZA who wanted me to bring my US2000 batteries in for them to check, I eventually got them so far to provide me with version 3.4 Firmware for the batteries.

After upgrading a stack of 4 x US2000 batteries with new firmware version 3.4, my 4 x UP5000 stack now communicates correctly with the US2000 batteries.  Everything looks balanced and also works with the 2 x Growatt inverters on Li04 - 36 setting.
I used a USB to serial (DB9m) converter and made another crosslink cable from DP9F to RJ11 to link to the batteries. Batteryview 3.0.33 worked fine

The Firmware works for the standard US2000 and US2000B Plus
Here's the firmwareus2000B_Plus_V3.4_Crc.bin

Just wanted to say thanks very much, particularly to  @Youda
We are off grid so totally dependant on the system working.  We bought 3 new US3000C to add to our existing 12 and felt it was wise to get them all updated particularly with the overvoltage issues.
Follow the guides and all went well.  Having both files in the zip really does make it "idiot proof".
So thanks for the awesome resource and sharing.  🙂

No, it does not fit (but it shows there are issues with decoding values correctly). I don't use CT coils. The alarms are probably  increasing as the Watt-meter values (importedWh, exportedWh) are accumulating since Wattmeter-reset and the higher values seem to be more affected by the decoding bug...
PS: The alarms still appear in the updated firmware (hmi: 1001-c037, main: 200x-1140-0824)

I tried to explain this to Deye tech team ... it seems they are aware of the issue but still blame Eastron and cable and anything else than the inverter
I poked them again and reminded them of the issue , let's say maybe they will require come more logs. Will let you know and thanks for sharing.
 

I have replaced the cable now (now it's a shielded twisted pair cable, before it was just a twisted pair cable). And this time, I have connected pins 1,8 and pins 2,7 and pins 3,6 at the Eastron meter side too (each pair connected together). Last time I just connected pins 1,2,3 however this could be the problem (because those unconnected pins are connected at the Deye side, and then you have 'open wires' in the cable - basically those act likes antennas and then may receive noise signals...)

 
Addendum: The error just appeared again (also with replaced cable)... 🤣
 

And here is the remote display/panel(U2: 80.35)) firmware for EASUN/POWLAND...IGRID SV IV 5.6K (parallel)
Remote Panel - 3573-08S7 INFINISOLAR V IV 80.35.zip

After a long fight with EASUN costumer service, i managed to get the 2 firmwares for IGRID SV IV 5.6K (parallel function).
For what ever reason, flashing DSP (U1: 54.04) worked flowlessly, even with the Inverter "bricked" with error 32. (charged battery connected, switch on, like the manual recommend).
Display firmware, (U2: 8035), also worked
So now my inverter works again, except that i have lost WIFI function in the process... so it seems that i have to change remote card anyway...But its another story...
If you have IGRID SV IV 5.6K parallel, (mine is from DEC 21 in the sticker),  and you have no success with the firmwares shared on this forum or from voltronic FTP, i am sharing the 2 files given by EASUN.
cheers,
3570-02S2 Upgrade_2809_DSP INFINI V IV 5.6K 54.04.zip

It worked fine for 8 months or so ... problem appeared 2-3 months back ?
As I said meter talks with inverter fine 99.9% of the time and only throws a warning for 1 second or so.
Tried with pins 1-2 and also 7-8 on meter port.

Normal panels don't work well inside a garage😊
If panels are connected to a on grid inverter it can be used like the guidance on using a micro grid inverter via the Aux port.