Daniel128

Good morning too all
 Thank you for all the feedback and advice I really appreciate it.
 I did some fault finding this weekend and did some changes and it looks like it has paid off.
 I also got my hands on a load tester and tested all the batteries and all of them look to be in good order.
 I also disconnected all my batteries and charged them all to full capacity with a C Tec charger and left them for a couple of hours to settle.
 Did final testing to make sure all of the batteries are full and did read the same or as close as possible and re connected them.
 I also put new connectors on all of my cables and left the system to charge the howl Sunday and to go into float to balance them all off.
 On the inverter AXPERT 5KVA in program 29 low DC cut off voltage I see it is set to 42v would you recommend I change it to 48v because that’s where my batteries read 50% discharged but I have read it interferes with the soc?

No, don't set it to 48V. 
48V or 12V per battery is in your case a SOC of 50% under no load condition. (The exact voltages differs slightly between battery brands and types etc.)
If the inverter needs to supply a load and current is drawn from the batteries the voltage might drop to way below 48V while the SOC might still be much more than 50%. The higher the current drawn from the batteries, the lower the voltage reading will be - that is determined by the internal resistance of the batteries. Once you remove the load from the inverter the battery voltage will rise and stabilize at a higher value, depending on the SOC at that moment.
As discussed many times before on this forum and others, the Voltronic inverters use battery voltage to determine the SOC of the battery bank and that is unfortunately not the best method and is very inaccurate.  A more accurate method to determine the SOC of the battery bank is to make use of a proper battery monitor and that is why so many people on this forum refer to the Victron battery monitors e.g. the BMV702.
To get back to the low DC cut-off voltage, do not change it to 48V, because your inverter will trip under load while the SOC of the battery bank is still fine, rather leave it on 42 V and invest in a proper battery monitor and use the battery monitor to control the load or inverter at a specific SOC.  If you feel very uncomfortable with 42V, set it to 44V then, but it might still cut out unnecessarily.

Looking at the photos, I would think that this phenomena is purely due to the cabling. i.e. the Negative cable runs to the first (right hand) bank, then a long cable to the 2nd bank. In a DC system, volts is drawn through the negative cable - more precisely: electrons flow from negative to positive. I suspect there could be high resistance, either in the wires, or the 2nd battery bank, that cause the imbalance.
@Daniel128 as a suggestion, try and re-arrange your batteries so the cables between the 2 banks are as short as physically possible. Either stack them on top of each other, connect the positives and negatives of each battery bank to a bus bar (or a simple connection) so that each battery bank has the same cable length from the inverter. Look at the image below to see what I mean. 
Then take a multi meter and measure the ohms, and volts between all the links. Try and get it as close together as possible. If need buy use a battery balancer. You would need 3x Victron battery balancers on 48V.
 

Will do...

Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk
Need to get to a pc...

Thank you for the help Mark.
 I will really appreciate it if you can help me with that drawing and then ill know exactly if I must buy anything more this weekend because I also want to install the fuse on the battery lines and pv input

My philosophy too. The 52.30 is the firmware for the inverter and 01.24 is for the SCC. 52.30 is problematic with generators. I have  firmware 72.40 and can confirm it works with a cheap four grand gennie. The inverter made an odd hum so I would not run it as a rule on a cheap gennie.

You're welcome. Yes, it can be updated, you can download newer versions of the firmware here: http://www.ostrovni-elektrarny.cz/index.php?page=podpora
They also have instructions. There are theads on here that describe the changes between versions but maybe you have to consider first what you would like to achieve (fix) with an upgrade. Some people had problems connecting external generators to the Axpert, think some later versions fixed it. Chris would be able to comment on that.
Otherwise, maybe if it aint broken, don't fix it?

It shows the two firmware versions installed on your inverter: 52.30 and 01.24

Lucky you, every time I switch my inverters off and on settings are lost  then I must call an expert  to bring everything back to normal

I have this as well even though I only have one inverter.  No visible issues so far.  I think it may be that the inverter was tested in the factory in a parallel setup...?

Thanks Ibiza
Maybe that means the previous people tried to add another inverter and then took it down for some reason

SIG=single

Symbol "HS" is in fact "MS" and stands for master in parallel connection, when you have two or more inverters connecting together.

Good morning everyone
 I just want to thank all of you for the over whelming help and advice I really appreciate it.
 Hopefully one day soon I can do the same and pay it forward with the ability to help someone else like you all are helping me.
 I have made some changes to the system last night and its looking good and im feeling more confident that the system will start running more reliable and im off to a good start to make it more safer and comply with the set safety specifications to get an coc for it soon.
 Ill post new pictures soon.

Hi Daniel
From the photo it looks like the bridge cables connecting the individual batteries are not even in length.
Just check.
 
Chris

The new settings for the charging and float charging

Good morning everyone
 I just want to thank all of you for the over whelming help and advice I really appreciate it.
 Hopefully one day soon I can do the same and pay it forward with the ability to help someone else like you all are helping me.
 I have made some changes to the system last night and its looking good and im feeling more confident that the system will start running more reliable and im off to a good start to make it more safer and comply with the set safety specifications to get an coc for it soon.
 Ill post new pictures soon.

This is allowed as long as 1) the wire going down can handle the current, 2) the wire used is proper solar cable that can handle UV and other weather conditions, 3) you have fuses between the strings (each set of 3) where it connects to the common wire.
This means fuses on the roof, which generally means water right fuse boxes and stuff like that, and getting onto the roof whenever you need to work on it. It's therefore better to rather use a cable for each string and combine them below. I have a setup myself where I parallel them on the roof: But my panels are on a flat roof and easy to reach: It's an acceptable compromise.
3-core wire? For AC? Rip it out immediately and put in the right stuff.
I must say this is an odd setup. Those Microcare controllers aren't cheap. I mean, they are cheaper than Victron or Outback, but a 40A unit is around 5.5k (iirc), so you have around 15k worth in charge controllers there, combined with a cheap inverter and a botch job in the cabling... maybe the previous owner got the controllers for dirt cheap somewhere... because given the rest of the setup I'd have expected something cheap....

Okay, time to answer your questions.
On the back of the panel, it says Open Circuit Voltage is 36.8V for the one and 22.4V for the other. Lets make that 37 and 23 to make the math easy.
Those MicroCare Controllers have a Voc rating of 150V. So you can put panels in series as long as you remain under 150V total. 4 Panels in series will put you a bit too close to 150V (148V), so three panels in series (of the larger type) is what you can do.
With the 12V panels (those with the 22.4V Voc), you can series up to 6.
But... without getting too technical. An MPPT is a buck converter, and they usually have design constraints where they work best, the inductor, capacitor and frequency used by the converter is chosen to fit such a range. It's best to stay within a voltage that is between 2 and 3 times the battery voltage. With a 48V bank, that means aim for 100V to about 135V (just to leave enough space at the top).
I would keep the panels and controllers. The MC units are good.... not top of the range, but a great deal better than anything else made in this country or in China.