BigotedUncle

Ah... I see. I currently use 3 x Dyness B3 batteries (The dumb ones), in an actual server rack. (Connected to a SunSynk inverter) It's been a year and a half with no issues. I also chose to go with multiple small batteries (3.6Kwh) instead of 1 big one (10Kwh). In case there is a failure i do not lose the whole battery. But there are many other options from Deye to Pylontech to Revov, Hubble Sunsynk etc. But to be honest, the actual (High End brand names) batteries, i think, are not too far apart in quality. What usually sets these batteries apart is the after sales support. To be on the safe side, i would pay a little bit extra and go for the known brands that are available and supported locally. E.g. SunSynk, Revov or Dyness, (but the smart ones with BMS monitoring and SW updating over wi-fi) . I do not know LUMO, so maybe it also has pedigree. (P.S. I saw the Dyness B3s were only R13K on geewiz which is a steal). I paid R18k to 22k per battery less than 2 years ago.

Hi there... I can't say i can answer you, but can you share what you mean by stack? You mean the ESS options by Deye, or do you mean the rackmount type batteries? Can you share links to, or an images of, the Lumo and Deye stack you saw?

I'm curious what the alternator would be doing in the system you're thinking of. E.g. Are you replacing the batteries? So instead of having a 12V battery feeding the inverter, you want to put an alternator? Typically inverters state what power they can take in the INPUT, e.g. Petrol/diesel Generators, DC is usually batteries., Solar or Grid AC (Eskom), but in ALL cases, there are working parameters that the INPTUT source must meet (Hz, V min and max etc). I do not your an alternators specs, (how suitable or clean the power it produces is), to feed into an inverter, but i highly doubt a typical inverter can handle the power coming from al alternator effectively. Lastly, looking at the image below, it looks like it only wants AC or Solar in... The built in battery provides the DC voltage. So bot sure where you wanted to put the alternator?

UPS is something else. 😜 But I would not recommend these all in one solutions. Where if 1 thing breaks the whole thing must go in. Depending on the space you have, you could build a VERY simple solution of 2 to 3kw, from as little as R10K if you want to backup basics like light fridge TV/Computer etc

Generally you should not have to, as the manufacturer should already earth it... If you do (as extra precaution), it should not be a problem. Do you have a diagram on how you want to connect it to the DB Board and what you are backing up?

P.S. Looks like RCT Zone is now selling the same inverter, but with LiFePo batteries. 🤨 After telling me the inverter won't support LiFePo batteries🤔

So far so good...😃 I am trying to use some remote monitoring tool from homebug, poor choice of name 😅 (https://homebug.com/product/ebug-blue/) , but no luck... I want to be able to monitor the batteries bms even when remote, over wi-fi. (instead of only when standing next to them) the device only shows the Battery Equalizer (which shows a good ballance), but not the actual battery BMSs in the batteries... I contacted https://homebug.com/ Asking them for support. wish me luck P.S. Locally the 8 cells are between 3,440 and 3.448 Volts and the Battery Monitor is looking at the Battery Equalizer. This i can view remotely thanks to the home bug.

Thanks for the best wishes. I guess I'm not doing it. The poor BMS is. 😅 P.s. Incase you're curious, this is a snap shot of how the REVOV batteries maintain the 13.7 float voltage of the battery manufacturer. I'll keep watching them!

I wish I could tell you what you want to hear, but I'd be lying🥲 Yes, both the battery manufacturer and the sales persons make a huge effort to warn you about the settings, but the inverter does not have a lithium option. The only settings i can change, that is relevant, is charge voltage, but that maxes out at 27.6 or 13.8V per battery. YET, so far, it seems to charge according to the batterys needs. Even hitting the 14.1v after loadshedding/load reduction, which is strange or, more likely, i don't understand my own setup.

Update: all works fine. The BMS's have have registered their first full cycle with me. They came with 1 from factory. I've suspect their quality checking. But they've never hit zero %, so I suspect the BMS counts a cycle each time the batteries produce 100Ah or 100% of their capacity? E.g. the 2x50% discharges I've done now = 1 cycle?

🤣🤣🤣

Got tired of replacing Sealed Lead Acid batteries Decided to try Li-Fe on the trolley inverter with no lithium charging option. The REVOV 12v battery is supposedly a drop in replacement for lead acidand has a built in BMS you can monitor via bluetooth So far so good! Wish me, and the poor BMS luck🫣

I got mine 2 years ago. Replaced the batteries 3 times. At the end of the day, these SLA inverters are not worth the energy. I dropped in a lithium battery with a BMS. Seems to work but something will eventually break, according to the Internet.

👍

I asked the installer if one phase gets above 4kw, he said it will shut down, so that is why I thought the Deye was better But clearly he and I were wrong. I just downloaded the manual for the 12kW and it states: "These amazing three-phase inverters have a unique feature. They can operate and balance the load, which means you can have 20% connected to one phase, 20% to another, and 60% to the third phase, and it still gives perfect phase rotation. No other inverter in their class can offer this feature. " Ironically the last statement is also wrong as the Deye can. So I'll stick with sunsynk.

But currently? I don't think so

Wow... That's so smart... I wonder if Sunsynk does or will ever do that...

Does anyone have a 3 Phase inverter that can output unbalanced loads that exceed the TOTAL kW divided by 3, per phase? e.g. Take a 12kW inverter. L1,L2 and L3 Should output 4kW max each. 3 x 4kW = 12kW. If the load on L1 pulls 5kW then (i assume) a normal 3 phase inverter get's overloaded. But this DEYE claims it can output 6kW max from L1, provided the rest of the lines are below the total 12kW when added together. meaning: L1 is at 2kW out of the total 4kW that it can output. L2 is at 3kW, of the 4kW it has. Then L3 can be up to 6kW. Without overloading the inverter.

I don't work for dyness or know all their products, but by 4800, do you mean the A48100 or 4.8kW? If so then yes, you should be getting more that 3.6kW before any trips. I use 2 x Dyness B3 and they can hit 4.2kW without tripping.f so then yes, 8100

Not to say the cables are faulty, but the standard cables are different to that blue one. If you have tried swapping the ends around (what is in the battery goes to Inverter) and it is still not working, them maybe try order the original cables. They look like the black ones with the yellow tags. (From the battery manufacturer) Also, check you battery DIP switch settings. (Again from battery manufacturer). Different for different batteries. And you set the Dip Switches while battery is OFF. They don't always catch the first time round, especially when system is on.

Yes, but fortunately the BMS/batteries were never in danger as they have+-7Kw output. The 5kW Sunsynk Inverter is being "Maxed" out by both Load 1 and Load 2 (not healthy). On top of that, I desperately needed to add 500W to the existing backup, but that would exceed the Sunsynk inverters threshold 5.5kW in Lab/ideal conditions. So splitting 5.5kW into 3kw on Sunsynk and 2.5Kw on King, will still be below 7kW.) Heck, if it works, I'll add a 4th Battery (On bus bars or 2 x 25mm2) Excuse my crude diagrams... 🙈

*Edit: Sigh. I had misread the diagram.* It's not you, it's the diagram 🤣

"Max continuous discharge is only 5.4kW" Interesting. Why do you say 5.4kW? I thought it would be 3 x all the below. Meaning: Nominal Power 3 x 1.08kW = 2.16kW* Max Power 3 x 2.4kW = 7.2kW* Peak Power 3 x 2.64kW = 7.92kW * *The info above and the image below is from the manual that came with the battery.

From what I know, and see, the Sunsynk 100% relies on the battery BMS (Meaning it ignores ALL settings on Inverter) If it was conscious, it would wonder why the battery is so insatiable...🤣

"You can split the loads (not parallel the outputs); that's OK, but then you might still overload one inverter when the other has capacity" That's the idea, NOT to parellel, but have 2 separate loads, keep in mind Load 1 and load 2 are on separate Neutrals. Would synching still be an issue?. Currently I have both load 1 and 2 on the 5kw sunsynk it is "overloaded" while the old king is sitting in a box, in the storeroom. Still functional.