Cakrawerdi

I don't hink you need to buy BMS software, it is usually free, you just need to know the exact BMS.
For Shoto a lot of them use the seplos BMS which you can find software for here: https://www.seplos.com/download.html?group_id=6318
For the others you may be able to use PBMSTools.

I have a Sunsynk 8kW and a 200Ahr Narada btty. I made the comms cable as per manual (Inv pin 1 to btty pin 3; pin 2 to 2 & Pin 3 to 1); Btty setup Li; RS485 Protokol 16; Activated is ticked; Inverter firmware is CommE426 & MCU6022-1724; I cannot get the Inverter and the Btty to communicate. What else do I need to do? Plse help!!

Sama2 pak

Another update on my LAB...
Couple of days ago, I did a small improvement on my 160L geyser. This project had two parts:
1) Clean the geyser
2) Use the solar energy to heat the water while keeping the grid as automatic backup
The unit is 7 years old and since the purchase, I performed zero maintenance on it. So I drained the tank, opened the flange and took a peek on the guts.
This is flange cover, with the casing for heating element and termostat probes. It's fully covered by the "limestone" sediments and the magnesium sacrifice rod is totally dissolved:

 
Inside the tank, there was a full bucket of lime sediments:

 
Luckilly, after a quick cleaning I realized that there was virtually no corrosion inside:

 
I've put old flange cover in the garbage, since I already had a new one, with the casing suitable for the larger heating element. Also ordered a new sacrifice rod and a ceramic element in a standard 3-phase configuration (star):
L1=1333 W
L2=1333 W
L2=1333 W
I rewired the element and split it into two parts. One will be fed by solar, the other will be connected to a grid and will switch-on only if there will be bad weather for a number of days.
L Solar = 2666 W
L Grid = 1333 W
Ceramic heater rewired:

 
The original panel had just one thermostat (plus one safety thermostat). So, I've added a second thermostat, some wires and LED's in a way that allows me to control each half of the heating element independently:

 
The actual wiring of the panel:

Upper part will be fed from Inverter. Bottom part will be fed from the grid and it's thermostat will be set to a minimum temperature suitable for taking a shower or bath Drawing on the side represents the location of the probes for each thermostat. Since hot water tends to collect in upper levels, grid thermostat has it's probe located the most high. Therefore, it will turn-on heating only if the water in the tank will be really cold. Contrary, the thermostat associated with the Inverter is located at the bottom, so whenever the water at the bottom will be even slighly cold, it will turn the heating on.

Very interesting thread you have going here @system32.  One area I have not seen discussed is the method of connecting the batteries.  I'm especially interested in the 4 x AM2 type configurations, as looking at the issues around parallel connectivity and the fact incorrect connections could/would impact individual batteries.
Example is looking at Victron's (Their diagrams - hence the mention) write up on battery connectivity, where standard parallel connections will impact the first and last battery.  Hence the need for diagonal or other methods to be used. 
You have a great configuration going here, could you confirm the connection method and cable type (mm2) used for your 4 x AM2 connection.

Bought another cheap Narada but had issues with the communication software. Tried a few others ... To found out that the EG4 lifepower4 monitoring software (BMS test) also works.
Available here :
https://eg4electronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/BMS-Test.zip

123456

hello guys,
Someone know the administrator password for PMODBUSTOOS  (I guess it is the same as for the PBMSTOOLS) ?
This Pmodbustoos is the only software that works, I cannot make the Pbmstools to work, it times out on the "serial port" - same cable, same com-port
I use the USB to RS485 adapter.

Yeah, the BMS is quite an impressive machine. I calibrated the time a few times, but it always seems to be out so I stopped bothering. The balancing is passive so it burns off the charge in the higher cells above 3.5V, but it is only 100mA or something like that so it can take some time. I did change my float voltage to 54.5V so it still does some balancing when the inverter switches to float before 100% SOC. It might just take some time for the cells to balance nicely as the battery is new. I faffed with comms for more than 2 months so my battery was 'worn in' by the time I got the software connected. I fiddled around with the settings a lot in the beginning chasing the 100% SOC, I turned of the intermittent charge, lowered the equalization voltage to 3.4V, increased the charge voltage to 57V and few other things and realized after a while that the default BMS settings work fine, it was just my expectations that were wrong.

I'm just going to put some screenshots of all the default BMS settings here for reference and for anyone interested who doesn't have comms set up...

Ah yes, I found this very confusing at first, but then figured out why it looks like it's only charged to 98%... this is because it has already reached 100% SOC and the BMS won't allow charging again until it reaches 96%. That is what the "Intermittent Power Supply Waiting" message tells you, it is basically "Battery Waiting (to be discharged)". If you pull the history data you might be able to catch where it was at 100% SOC, but you need to be quick as it only gives the last 500 rows and when the battery reaches 100% the data is filled every few seconds with status changes. I did turn this off for a day or so to see what happens, but I didn't like the idea of the battery sitting at 100% all day.
The "Monomer High Voltage Alarm" basically means "Single-Cell High Voltage Alarm" and is triggered when any cell goes over 3.5V, but the passive equalization also only activates at 3.5V, so these warnings are 'normal'. They will go away as the battery settles after charging. My guess is pack1 reached 100% a little earlier and the cells have already settled. It makes sense that the slightly older battery has had time to equalize better.
As for the capacity change, I have not seen this yet, but technically yes the BMS is supposed to learn with time and update the SOH and capacity as it goes, usually it goes down though.
On the cycles, the BMS has a setting that counts as cycle at 20% cumulative discharge which is incorrect, so you will probably see the cycles counting a lot quicker than you expect. That can be changed in the parameters.

Pack1 and Pack2, with charging parameters of 56.4v bulk/54v float

I've got soo many questions and concerns actually, I bought 2 of those shoto 5.12kwh and a couple of days apart and linked them up in parallel, the first one have 10 cycles and second one have 5 cycles, but the first battery says Total capacity: 103.05 Ah and the second battery says, 100 Ah, how does that work?, does the BMS learn with time or what? and with the bms software, it looks messy, just warnings and red batteries mostly, and the SOC is about 98% max, I'm going to add a picture of my previous shoto battery and everything looks perfect!!  Shoto SDA10-48100L5 4,8kW

Updating here as I have finally managed to get the 2 wire USB-RS485 adapter working with my shoto. Thanks to @jetleewho gave me the names of drivers that worked for his Narada battery on another topic, I found an extra driver from Device Monitoring Studio that must have been conflicting.
The drivers needed for this FTDI adapter should be automatically installed/found by windows: ftser2k.sys, serenum.sys, ftcserco.dll, ftserui2.dll
Once I found out that the shoto uses a Seplos 100A BMS I managed to find a ton of info on diysolarforum and on boards.ie, so shout out to those guys over there, they've done a lot of research on the seplos.
The pinout is as follows: Pin 1 on the RJ45 plug goes to B (D-) on the adapter and pin 2 goes to A (D+)

You can also use pins 8 & 7 (respectively) instead as the pinout is mirrored on RS485 port. I've actually used 1&8 for D- and 2&7 for D+ for a better connection with these flimsy wires as they are joined anyway as per the image below.

The software needed to connect is called "Battery Monitor V2.1.8" by Seplos and you can find all the necessary info and files here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10pxgNLHovcDZRVGrCZsSkfecBrRw-AdW
Please read the manual before playing around as there are some things that need to be set up before connecting to the battery and make sure you set the baud rate to 19200.
All the info you need, including 6 temp sensors, SOC, Cycles, real time logging and lots more:

 
Enjoy!
 

@Youda Just to be clear, I am trying to crimp a serial cable for a UP2500 to ICC and I note the pin assignment is different for this battery RJ11
GND RXD TXD GND Am I right to crimp RJ11 to DB9:
Null ---> 2 ---> 3 -----> 5