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TonyB

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  1.    Riyad179 reacted to a file: Wiring_Unlimited.pdf
  2.    VictorD reacted to a file: Wiring_Unlimited.pdf
  3.    scyan reacted to a file: Wiring_Unlimited.pdf
  4. If they get physically damaged by hail or something and then, especially if they have water on them, the frame could have a high voltage on it and be dangerous.
  5. @DMAC thanks for the feedback and keep us posted! Yes, I've been following a bit of Roland W except I play his videos at 150% speed 🙂.The TN-S picture I posted above comes from his YouTube channel. As mentioned above, only ground the frames of your PV panels and not the DC current (negative or positive) at all. And also don't connect any battery wires to earth. The frame is ok I suppose but I'm not sure how the inverter would handle it if there were a short?
  6. TonyB replied to MattyP's topic in Batteries
    I noticed the same thing. I think this is just a Typo. In another part of their web site it says 96.6: https://www.voltex.co.za/product/growatt-inverter-5kw-48v-spf5000-greenrich-lithium-battery-4-95kwh-96-6ah-51-2v-u-p5000/ Check with Voltex.
  7.    TonyB reacted to a post in a topic: Sunsynk 8kW + 2 x 5kWh Greenrich + 5.55kWp PV
  8. Hopefully you can monitor each strings performance going forward then and see what's up. Given that they are already in parallel, separating them may not show a massive improvement sadly. Because if one string becomes shaded it just becomes a resistor. The other string should still be operating fine. I suspect that your SW facing ones are the real problem (apart from it being winter), as @Scorp007 says.
  9.    TonyB reacted to a post in a topic: Optimal solar panel wiring configuration
  10.    TonyB reacted to a post in a topic: Optimal solar panel wiring configuration
  11. Ah yes, I would separate them, one to each input.
  12. @Savvoh Have a look at this topic, it may help? https://powerforum.co.za/topic/19328-optimal-solar-panel-wiring-configuration/ ie: Are your panels all in series? In which case you need to split them into a couple of parallel strings. A series panel in the shade will impair the whole string.
  13. @Stu_D Bear in mind that by going parallel you will be reducing the voltage but increasing the amperage. You'll need to check your wiring, and your charge controller, to see if they can handle that. You may need to beef them up somewhat.
  14.    TonyB reacted to a post in a topic: Optimal solar panel wiring configuration
  15. Yip, if some panels are in the shade they become a large resistor!
  16. If your panels are in series in only one string then any panel that is in the shade will shut down the whole operation. You must wire your panels into a number of parallel strings for redundancy. eg: Have 3 separate strings, one string for morning, one for midday and one for afternoon - facing in the appropriate direction. With parallel strings it is important that you have a fuse on the +ve of each string.
  17. Oh dear, sorry to hear that! If the panels are under load then things can happen if you just disconnect them. It's best to cover up the panels, or at least one in each series string first. Then you can isolate the panels and in theory your charge controller should be fine. Unless something else happened?
  18. Here's a good video that shows the potential difference between a Live casing and the Ground (at 0V) because of the impedance going back to the supply Earth. In the event of a fault, and you are touching the case and the ground, this could cause a large current to flow through you, because of the large Voltage drop. This current would likely be insufficient to trip the breaker, but you would get a big shock. So, an RCD is definitely required. And, in order to reduce the Impedance back to the supply, and hence the large Voltage drop and current, a local Earth connected to Neutral would mitigate this and have minimal voltage drop, and thus minimal current flowing through you. The RCD would still pick up the imbalance between Live and Neutral as some of the return current is going back via the "real" Earth. Oh dear, I've just looked deeper into multi-earths. Utilities do this all the time, all the way down your street, but it IS a hazard. So, what's the solution? Relying on an RCD only? Go full TT (with RCD's) throughout without exporting the Earth? ie: The Inverter supply is TN-S but everything downstream is TT. ie: Local Earth not connected to Neutral. As in the picture below? Anyone have a better / safer solution? https://www.ecs.csun.edu/~bruno/MultiGroundedNeutralFinal_4-17-7.pdf And the Pro's and Con's of Single vs Multi: https://www.csemag.com/articles/grounding-points-single-or-multi/#:~:text=Single-point grounding means exactly,are grounded at multiple points. RCD Video and Potential Difference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XN7s4ge1FoQ TT Installation:
  19. ps: just further to your comment. The issue with a remote distribution point is about the potential difference in Voltages between the Earth and Neutral - as far as I understand, hence the need for a local grounding rod. I'll research some more and get back on this....
  20. Thanks! As far as I can see the Neutral has minimal impedance so virtually all of the current will go back via there. If, however, there is a live short to Earth then some of that current will be absorbed by the "real" earth. (Me touching the Caravan). The RCD will see an imbalance in the Live and Neutral currents and trip. I can't see how a downstream earth could cause an imbalance between live and neutral?
  21. Ok, I'm not sure I fully understand. The MEN system (in the image) has downstream connections. I would have thought that in any event the RCD would see an imbalance between Live and Neutral and trip? Other than selectivity issues and false tripping maybe from the downstream one? And if the upstream one trips on a downstream fault that's ok for now. As long as something trips 🙂 If I did feed any other outbuilding I would in any event take it from the main board, to another DB Board with MCB and RCD etc in the outbuilding.so hopefully this is not an issue.
  22. Thanks a mill! Without the Grounding Rod at the Caravan the Voltage difference from a "live" fault on the Steel Frame to the real Earth could be massive, like 100V+, so it's only the RCD saving you really. If you also have a local Earth (rod) then the Potential difference is very small and you will only feel a buzz but not a shock. Thata's also why EV chargers can be dangerous... I see in Australia they use the MEN System. (Multiple Earthed Neutral) with Ground Rods at each outbuilding and the Neutral connected to Earth as well at each DB Board. In fact most utility companies do this all the time. (Mike Holt) ie: Grounding the Neutral at multiple points from the main sub station. This seems to be fine! See links and image.. One does have to be careful where you put the rods. Mine is rural off-grid so no issues but if you put the rod near your neighbour's water pipe and they have a fault it will come over to your place too! https://memberarea.necawa.asn.au/Admin/ViewContentPage?uniqueName=multiple-earthed-neutrals-men https://electricians-success-academy.com/learn/what-is-men-system

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