Stu_D

Connect inverter to battery via CAN bus using normal CAN or LAN cable. Select BMS on the inverter. I think it’s the default type ‘1’. DIP switches are set according to the number of batteries. See pic from manual.

I am told it may be due to an earth fault on one of the MPPT strings. Managed to reset the inverter with the DC turned off. I will keep you posted.

Hi. I have a Deye 8Kw inverter with two mppt strings and two 5Kw batteries. Been working fine for 18 months. Suddenly I have a F26 fault which I managed to rest once and it came back again after a couple of hours. Does anyone have any suggestions to resolve this issue. The inverter works like a bypass for mains power when this fault is present with no loads shown.

I resolved the issue by connecting to 2.4Ghz network instead of 5Ghz. Regards.

Nope it didn’t help. Current is now being clipped at 19.3 Amps.

Just supply your S/N of your inverter.

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Since I have the same problem, I contacted Deye support and they have updated the firmware to increase the pv current to "that stated in the manual" In my manual that is 22A but the online manual states 26A. I am waiting for an ideal sunny day to see what it tops out at.

I have a fairly new Deye 8kW system - installed in December 2022 and I also have clipping at 20A. My theoretical max is 26A. The clipping happens on my North string which comprises of 12 x 545w panels (2series strings in parallel) My South string has 6 x 545w panels and is pretty useless in winter.

I am having similar problems with the POWR316. I have two installed and one works perfectly. The other disconnects after about 24 hours even though the power stays on. I have a basic switch right next to the POWR which never goes off so the problem is unique to the POWR and unlikely to be WiFi related. It is a pain to cycle the power as I am not always at home to do it and wish I could reconnect the POWR remotely.

It is a Deye 8kW and has a maximum mppt current of 22 Amps per mppt. The inverter pegs out the current at 20 Amps. I also checked my output in the history from one day to the next when I originally split the string into two and there was absolutely no difference in kW output afterwards. This leaves me to believe the bypass diodes are very effective and I should still get maximum output if I do an even split of 9 panels North and South. 10 panels will push the limit for the Voc as it will be nearly 500V.

When I first installed I had 6 North panels paralleled with 6 south panels and I didnt notice any significant change when I split the strings into a North and South string. I have read that my panels (Canadian solar) have built in bypass diodes so that shaded panels do not affect performance of the entire string. With this in mind it may be better to do what I proposed earlier to reduce the Amperage.

So here is the latest… I now have 12 panels facing North on one string. (2 series strings in parallel) and 6 panels facing South in a series string. A new problem appears to be that the North string is reaching the maximum current of 20Amps and then pegging out. I can solve this by splitting the 2 strings to have 9 panels each with both strings having 6 North panels and 3 South panels. I am wondering if this will affect the output as the south panels may drag the north panels down.

My Solar assistant arrives soon and I have exactly the same question. Where and how to connect the PI power supply. The battery lugs in the inverter are huge and the power supply lugs are tiny.

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