HedgeSlammer

The 'arms' - about 150mm long. Might need to be a couple of mm wider/deeper to accommodate the 74HC595 chips at the back. The whole display will be around 500mm x 500mm... Not sure about the 'inverter' thing in the middle... might just do a model of the Victron Multiplus II, and reproduce the status LEDs from the front panel. I hope Santa brings me some more hot glue sticks. 😁

What Scorp said ^^^ In addition... somewhere in there will be a mechanism for sensing the water flow (from turning on a tap) or water pressure (which drops when you turn on a tap). Is there a little black thing with two wires coming off it clipped to the water inlet pipe (right hand side)? If so, it's essentially a reed switch that is operated by a magnet that moves inside the pipe when the water flows. Could it have moved out of position? If you have a multimeter and another magnet, you can unplug it and check it's working. If it is, maybe the magnet could be sticking?

Thanks Gary & Pho3niX... I did give the gears a good dosing of white lithium grease when I put it together, but it could probably do with another dollup. I've got some sticky backed acoustic foam somewhere, so - if I can locate it - I might try sticking some of that to the back of the board to dampen it a little as you suggest. I could also have taken a lot more care in making the gears! But really, the noise isn't a problem for us. The new 'LED flow meter' project will be completely silent, though. I think I've settled more-or-less on how to do it... A 3D printed 'frame' - essentially a strip of plastic of whatever shape and length with a slot the width of the LEDs (5mm) in it. This is laid face down on a silicone mat, then hot glue fills the slot. Before it sets, another (previously prepared) 3D printed part, the same shape and size but with individual holes for the LEDs (rather than a slot) filled with the LEDs is pressed into the glue. The idea is that the (set) milky-white glue acts as a diffuser for the LEDs, as well as holding it all together. Here's a test piece I made up with 8 LEDs to try it out, just running off an arduino: https://sendvid.com/5ay3wpud I think I might try making the glue a bit deeper, so as to increase the diffusion effect. For running the LEDs themselves, I looked at 3 options. Neo pixels (individually addressable LEDs) would be cool, but aren't that cheap, although they might be easiest to work with - especially for wiring. I2C port expanders (PCF8574 etc) would do the job, but again, not that cheap and I would need a few. The there's the 74HC595N 8-bit shift registers... I have loads of them already, they're cheap as chips (heh) and I can cascade them as much as I like. So that's what I'm going with. They need 3 pins (clock, data and latch), but I think I can get away with sharing a single clock between 4 of them (or rather 12... 4 channels of 3 chips, 24 LEDs on each channel). It will take me into unfamiliar territory as far as coding goes, which isn't a bad thing. Both of the above last two options lack the ability to dim individual LEDs (well, except the 74HC595N will if you want to use a special library which interferes with all sorts of other things), which is quite important if I don't want the thing to look all 'blinky' like a '70s star ship. A smooth transition between adjacent LEDs will make it look more 'flow' like. So the idea I (and likely thousands of others, if I searched Github) hit upon is to have two negative 'buses', with alternate LEDs connected to each (so no two adjacent LEDs are on the same bus), then I can use PWM on the negatives to have one getting brighter, while it's next door neighbour is getting dimmer. This way I can control the intensity of as many LEDs as I like, but only use 2 of my precious PWM-capable pins (per 'line') on the ESP. The two PWM pins ramp up and down, but opposed (one is going up while one is going down) at a rate proportional to the rate the LED 'positives' are switched on in sequence (only ever 2 on at any time). So LED 1 is turned on and ramps up, then LED2 is turned on and ramps up while 1 is ramping down, 1 turns off, then 3 is turned on and ramps up as 2 ramps down and so on. You can see this principle working in the video above (8 LEDs), or a little better in this one (24 LEDs): https://sendvid.com/gddno1tj I'm quite please with that, but if I can figure out a way to do 3 PWM negative channels (x4), so have one dimming, one on and one ramping up, all the better. 🤔😁 Anyway, have a good Christmas or whatever you're having. Comments/suggestions most welcome! 🙂

@TaliaB - Yes, very good point about the Y caps in all sorts of everything now. I've had to split stuff down before... all tests fine, then the customer goes and plugs a ton of IT kit in (how inconsiderate of them!). We always split the load between at least 2 RCDs, but now as single-module wide RCBOs are very affordable, critical circuits (freezers etc) or anything special can have their own (provided there's enough height available in the box). It's not that uncommon to find a single RCD as a main switch, though. @Scorp007 - That Heinemann looks to be of a fine vintage, it will likely outlive us all. 😁 How are things usually arranged in .za at a domestic Metering point? Here it's almost always [Grid -> 'company head', which includes Cut out (100/80/sometimes 60A cartirdge fuse, sealed with wire and numbered crimp) -> Meter -> consumer unit] - all either within the property or in a cabinate attached to the wall of the property. That's why they've been pushing smart meters so hard here - so they can cut you off without needing access. Yep, true that working hot is unavoidable sometimes. I have a 'rule of 3', that is 3 things between me and not going home tonight... Usually VDE tools + thick rubber gloves + a rubber mat that I keep on hand. But there's always things out there just waiting to get you. Had a close one a couple of months back: Friday night, a water heater in a tank, awkward access, also fed from an oil boiler loop. Isolated the board from which it was fed + 2-pole isolator next to the unit. Muppet-face here didn't spot that the boiler (inc it's thermostat feed to the tank) was fed via a different board elsewhere in the building. After receiving 'a bit of a tickle', I think I may have invented some completely new swear words that day, mainly directed at plumbers. 😬 But yes, working on live equipment should be strongly discouraged, even if we occasionally do it ourselves. 'Duty of care' and all that. 🤓

Thanks, @TaliaB. 🙂 Yes, the requirement for 30mA is the same in the UK/Europe - I don't know exactly what the the regs in .za state, so I didn't say. Another possibility occurred to me - not generally an issue in the UK, but I've come across it elsewhere: Little creatures! I've seen ants completely filling light switch back boxes and causing earth leakage... I think one ant wanders in to the back of the switch, gets fried and in the process releases a pheromone (We're under attack!), so more ants pile in to join the fight. The end result being literally a solid, square cake of dead ants the same shape as the box. Geckos are pretty good a squeezing into tight spaces, too - their urine is very corrosive to copper. Damp spiders web / nests / eggs will conduct a little. Then there's rats. I recall (here he goes again) an industrial unit that had a tiny leak in the roof - just a drip when it rained hard and the wind was in just the right direction. Where this drip landed was right on top of a twin+earth cable supplying the lighting circuit in the roof. The rats had decided that this was a good place to get a drink, one of them deciding to have a little nibble at the PVC insulation... right on the exact spot where the drip would land, causing a L-E fault. I used to marvel at the rat's apparent ability to chew live copper and get away with it... I've seen 25mm² tails stripped bare where they pass through a wall cavity (a nice surprise!), but there's never any 'body'. 🤔 Then I learned about their 'no man left behind' policy, specifically how they incorporate it into their idea of 'lunch'. Ewww. 🫤 But yes, get that RCD (ELCB) swapped out for a new 30mA one. It being your main switch does complicate thing a little - again, I don't know how it works where you are, but here I would have to pay the DNO (network operator) to do a disconnect/reconnect as the incomer fuse would have to be re-sealed. Under no circumstance should it be attempted 'hot' (live). Better to cut the seals and pull the main fuse (and face the consequences, if any) than risk your life. There's always the 'it was like that when I got here' defence to fall back on. 😉 Possibly not as convincing if you've had the property several years or they do meter readings in person (for that we have the 'some bigger boys did it and ran away' defence). The main issue for you now is that if/when you swap the RCD for the correct one, you'll likely get a lot more tripping - so a bit of a dilemma for you. Spending money to make the 'problem' worse. Try to think of the 'problem' as being the fault(s) that cause the tripping. The tripping itself is the systems solution to the problem (as in 'disconnecting the power before someone gets hurt'). There is quite a lot you can do before getting it checked/swapped out though. With the supply switched off, it can't hurt to methodically take off the switches/sockets and check/clean the back boxes and termination of the wires behind. Even just replacing the switches and sockets could be enough (here in the UK it's one of the few things deemed 'non-notifiable work', so a competent DIYer can legally do for themselves) - they get old, the contacts get oxidised, they wear out. New ones are not that much, + they look so much nicer. Along the way, look for anything that could cause an issue, when you put things back together, try to ensure that the wires behind are not in contact with or squished up against any metal back boxes, where possible. Once you've done what you can for yourself, get an electrician in to do a quick test (or better yet, a full 'Electrical Installation Condition Report', or whatever it's known as locally) and to swap the RCD. Hopefully you'll end up with a safe installation and still be able to afford the electricity to put into it.

I'd suggest you look at the cause of the ELCB tripping before anything else. It shouldn't trip whatever voltage fluctuations are thrown at it. The ELCB (Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker, known elsewhere as a Residual Current Breaker, or RCD) will/should only trip if it detects a leakage of current to earth somewhere on your side of it. It does this by essentially measuring the current flowing in both the live and neutral conductors, and if it sees a difference (of over ~80mA, in your case), it trips. It could be a number of things causing it to trip... It may be faulty (it's done pretty well at 40+ years) and tripping at a very low leakage current, in which case, it needs replacing. Or it could actually be working fine, it's just that there's already a small amount of earth leakage in the circuits throughout the house, which gets a little bit worse in wet weather... just worse enough to push the RCD over it's trigger threshold. If any part of the house wiring is anywhere near as old as the RCD, I'd say this is most likely to be the cause. A build up of dust and dirt behind any of the socket outlets or switches, or junction boxes, etc could easily create a low resistance path to earth - that gets worse when there's a bit of moisture in the air. If you can find a competent electrician, they should be able to test the RCD for you, to establish whether it's working as it should. Then they'd hopefully do a 'whole house' insulation resistance test, which will highlight if there is any significant earth leakage - and if there is, start to identify which particular circuit(s) are the cause of the issue. If you have any circuits that run outside of the house (outside lighting, spurs off to a shed, etc), that might be a good place to start. Look for signs of water ingress, failing rubber seals, that sort of thing. Other likely culprits include water heaters, washing machines etc. But do get that RCD checked - at 40+ years, it's done it's bit. It might just save your life one day. 🙂

BMS = 'Battery Management System'... Basically, a small computer that lives inside each of the batteries which is in charge of deciding whether the battery is full, empty or whatever. It means that the battery is able to tell the inverter what it wants or can offer in the way of power, set limits etc, rather than the inverter trying to work it out for itself. This 'discussion' all goes on via those thin network cables between the batteries and inverter.

Cheers! I'm just glad it amuses someone else, too. Video (with 'Ziiiiurp!'), as requested: Booting up: https://sendvid.com/in7wrlwm 'Test' mode: https://sendvid.com/v0ax5cka Kettle on: https://sendvid.com/evb63wvq Charging from grid: https://sendvid.com/q79l236l Yep, we had an old Android tablet stuck to the wall for a while (OK, so it's still there) with the 'Victron Remote Console' displayed, then a Grafana dashboard. The thing just kept turning itself off after a while (no matter what I did), so it was never on when you looked at it. Then I made this rough-as-rats LED meter to display SOC: But it's pretty ugly... I figured that six of them would be (at least) six times as ugly. Like I said, I got pretty lucky with the RC servos - despite some of them being different makes, hence the slightly differing arcs of travel seen in the videos... also, making the 23-toothed internal splined bit of the bigger gear was a challenge... but you can get the smaller servos for a couple of GBP each and they would do the job, I reckon. The first (single servo, no gears [so only 90°] PV generation) meter I made just had a cable tie end as the needle. But if anyone wants a crack at making something similar, I'm happy to help where I can. I've attached a zip below with all of the .stl files (for 3D printing), including a 'drilling template' to help get the holes in the face in the right place. I've an idea for my next project (visualisation again)... Basically, a hardware rendition of the 'animated power flow lines' as displayed on some inverter front panels, the Victron VRM/Remote Console and @slipxs' beautiful Home Assistant cards. Using an ESP8266 (or 32) to drive a ton of 74HC595N 8-bit shift registers to light LEDs in sequence, with the speed/direction/intensity(maybe?) proportional to the live system data. The thing I'm stuck on is how to make it NOT look like that LED stick above... I tried some of that twin-wall extruded PVC shower panel material (it's like a bunch of square tubes next to each other), then only poking the LEDs through one wall, but the light leaks too much. I thought about clear PVC tube (for that 'Buck Rogers' vibe), but too many wires unless I manage to stuff the shift register chips in there, too. I'll find something, though. I always do. 🤔 Oh, yes! It goes really well with a dash of Brandy... so well that you can get away with buying the cheap stuff. 😉 Power_meters_v2_All_STL_Files.zip

Cheers... that indicates that someway somehow S-A is aware of both of the batteries... (7.1kWh = 2 x 3.55kWh US3000Cs). Mighty odd that it doesn't appear to be getting the temp data, though. S-A seem to suggest that the detailed battery info (like I posted before) is available via the 'inverter' icon in the main dashboard: 'From the dashboard you can click on the main inverter icon to get a detailed view.' Can you humour me and post what that shows? I'm rather suspecting it's a firmware issue somewhere that might need updating... Can you see the firmware version on the Inverter? The batteries will have to wait until you get the RS232 cable. Incidentally, when the cable arrives, you should be able to get at the battery firmware version / data from your Macbook with a terminal emulator (no need for windows) - I'd recommend Roger Meier's 'CoolTerm' (free) - I can walk you through that if needed. You'd still need a Windows (probably 11) machine to flash the new firmware to the batteries if needed, though.

Thanks, B... What's behind the 'Advanced' button under 'Battery'?

Vital to being able to keep within the inverter output limits (and avoid importing expensive grid power unnecessarily) is having the means to display the relevant information in an immediate and accessible way. That's what I told my wife, anyway. Really, I'd just scored a bunch of old RC servos on ebay for £5 and I wanted to play with them. 😉 In context: It uses 6 servos, a Wemos d1 mini clone and a tri-colour LED. Dial faces are 3D printed, with a filament change from white to black (which turned out much better than I imagined, TBH). The servos only had around 90° of sweep angle, so I 3D printed some little holder/gearbox things to get over 180° and provide a shaft for the needle to go on, plus some 'steampunk' needles. All run buy the obligatory D1 mini and held together using the very latest in 'twist and tape' technology. Yee-haw! 🤠 It gets fed the data from 'node-red' running on a Victron CerboGX via UDP packets over WiFi, updating as often as the data changes (approx 3 second intervals). The LED changes colour according to state, so 'All OK' is green, 'You're getting very close to/exceeding the inverter output limit, so if you don't want to pay for grid, don't turn anything else on' is red, then blue for 'dumping power into the hot water tank'. It's by no means silent in operation. I originally made a single-servo version for just PV generation and coded it so that the meter movements were gradual (a kind of PID to get from one value to the next), but apparently it 'sounded like we have cockroaches' when it made it's ticky-scratchy transitions between values, so the big version just jumps between values with a 'zzziiiiiup!' sound. It's actually quite reassuring to have an audible indication when the sun comes out for 5 seconds, or it starts charging at night. I'd also put a little radar sensor in there, with the aim of having it detect when there was nobody around, so it could stop displaying to save power/noise. Unfortunately, that meant that every time you entered the room, all 6 needles would suddenly move at the same time, making you jump out of your skin and spill your horlicks, so we just leave it 'on' all the time now. There's also a basic web UI, so you can see the same data on your phone or whatever, plus it's useful for troubleshooting: I had fun and learned loads making it - and now it's become a family game to try to cook dinner without making the red light come on. 🙂 Libraries used are 'ESPUI' and 'servo', plus 'arduinoOTA'. Code, FreeCad file for the gearbox & stl file for the arrow-head needle are all in the attached zip. Power_meters_v2..zip

Just to clarify... Are you saying that this setting (circled in red): is now (and is usually) set to 'Use inverter values', and not set to 'USB Voltronic LIB RS485', as pictured - meaning that you changed it to 'USB Voltronic LIB RS485' just to show that it doesn't work (which it wouldn't, as you don't have a USB->RS485 cable)? If that's the case, can you post a screenshot of what it says with 'Use inverter values' selected (also the 'Inverter' and 'Battery' screens in the Dashboard)?

In the drop-down menu under 'Battery', can you change from 'USB Voltronic LIB RS485' to 'Use inverter values'? It looks like S-A is trying to find the battery via a USB->RS485 adaptor directly plugged into the battery, hence not finding 'matching devices'. From the S-A website: https://solar-assistant.io/help/battery/configuration Also worth checking that the dip switch (labelled 'ADD') on the master battery has '1' switched 'ON' (and the others 'OFF'), this sets the baud rate to 9600. Be aware that the switches are upside down on most US3000Cs, so the far right hand one is '1', and 'ON' is 'down'.

...Or maybe not, as according to this thread, the flashing battery icon is a good sign - it means the battery is communicating. But still curious that there's no temp data displayed. Which sockets on the batteries is the data link cable using? (The battery with the empty link port 0 is the 'master battery' so should also have the RS485 cable attached to it, with 'link 1' connected to 'link 0' on the second battery).

Can you post a screenshot of what Solar-Assistant is showing you? Now I'm wondering if the battery is communicating with the inverter at all, and whether S-A is merely showing what the inverter *thinks* the SOC is, based on the battery voltage. 🤔 The blinking battery icon - is that on the inverter display or in S-A? Does anything change (the SOC, the blinking icon) if you unplug the RS485 cable? Also, what is the exact model number/name of the inverter? Sorry for all the questions! 🙂

And now I'm feeling a bit short changed by Victron... ..since I know that there's more data than that available on the CAN-BUS. 😟

As I understand it: Currently, you have an RS485 cable between the master battery and the Axpert, plus a USB cable between the Axpert and the Pi runnung Solar-Assistant... The RS485 cable allows the battery to tell the Axpert whether it wants charge, or is OK to supply power ('pylontech battery control mode' means that the battery is in control, telling the inverter/charger what it wants), plus a few other details (SOC, highest and lowest voltages and temps of the individual cells in the packs). The Axpert then makes this battery data available to Solar-Assistant. Solar-Assistant (I assume) displays the data something like this (which shows 7 batteries): https://solar-assistant.io/shop/products/pylontech_usc#screenshots Which is pretty much the same as the data available to other inverters, such as Victron, and (I assume - everything else is greyed out in the RS485 protocols I've seen) is all that is available over the battery's CAN and RS485 ports. The adjustment of inverter settings can be done via the inverter itself or through the Solar-Assistant interface. So now... The additional RS232->USB cable (that would go between the 'Console' port on the battery and a USB on the RasPi, forming a triangle) should not change any of the above. The only thing it will additionally give you is access to far more detailed data from the batteries - so, instead of just the 'highest' and 'lowest', you get the actual data for each individual cell (the below shows just 1 battery of 15 cells): I have no idea whether (I suspect not) Solar-Assistant will be able to access and use this new data, or even whether it's of use to you... I don't personally log data at this level as I think the 'highest/lowest' is enough to alert me to problems - but it's useful to be able to get the finer details if there are any, plus historical data stored within the battery. If you're finding that Solar-Assistant is not already displaying the data as shown in the first two images, from what I've read, it might possibly be something that can be fixed with a firmware update on the batteries. Either way, you'll need the new cable for that... In fact, looking at that S-A screenshot, you'll need it to even find out what firmware version you are currently on. I found it massively frustrating that the Pylontech 'BatteryView' software would only run on a (native and fully updated) Windows 11 installation... I messed about with virtual machines etc for days before I worked that one out, but got there in the end.

Ah, but only rated 32V... They still want R592.25 (£25) for the 58V rated one. 😲 The Farnell ones are apparently rated at 70V.

I'm a little concerned that I can't see any fuse on the input of that 9-60V DC USB power supply. Presumably they intend the ring terminals to connect directly to the M8 input studs on the inverter (not the terminals on the Pylontechs)? I'd add an inline 1A HRC fuse as close to the ring terminal as possible, in case that cable gets squished or cut. Here's a cautionary tale: On my first sizeable (48v) off grid install 20 odd years ago, we'd used Steca kit (Power Tarom), which uses the DC lines for communications to things like remote genset switches etc. I'd run a 2.5mm twin to one such switch (PA15) and grabbed my meter to check the voltage was present, not noticing my meter was set/plugged for measuring current. 😵‍💫 When the smoke eventually cleared and I'd (thankfully) regained most of my eyesight, I managed to sand most of the scorch marks off the board, then covered the worst of it by moving the PA15 down a bit - which worked out well, since a good inch of the cable had vaporised, leaving it (and my meter probes) a little bit too short. 😅 So, yeah. I'd fuse it. - Another note (I'm full of it today, eh?) on cheap buck converters - especially the ones based on the LM2596 chip. These are only really any good for < 40Vdc input (the magic smoke escapes around 51V), so for 48V systems, you'd need the LM2596HV, which should be good for up to 60V. The trouble is that the market has been flooded with the non-HV versions that just have 'HV' written on them (and '100V' or '63V' marked on the input caps). I have a tub full of them, all with a little melty hole in the lower left where the magic leaked out. I did find a few modules (the CC/CV versions) that were real HV chips eventually, but not many. That said, even a 'real' LM2596HV' would be running too close to it's max rating powering a Pi.

😖 Oops, cheers Scorp007... I'd wondered why kit in ZAR looked so expensive to me. 😅

I recently picked up a pair of these recently for about £12 GBP (R50?)... ..and was pleasantly surprised that they actually worked OK. They can leave a bit of an 'ear', but if you make sure it's facing the back and cover with heatshrink, who's gonna know, right? I even cut a crimp open with an angle grinder after doing it, to see what it was like inside - pretty solid!

Background: I have certain 'trust issues' when it comes to utility supply companies. Whether it was 'Good Energy', who helped themselves to £3,000 from my bank account in the week my first child was born (they apparently transposed two digits on a meter read), or the corporate behemoth 'Octopus Energy', who in the 18 months I was with them (and since) never once managed to produce a bill that reflected the tariff or rates that I was supposedly on, or any number of sh*t-weasels in between, I don't know. Suffice to say, they all rank somewhere beneath Estate Agents in my book. So I like to keep tabs on my energy consumption. We have a 'SMETS2' Smart Meter (Landis + Gyr E470) on a dual-rate tariff. Supposedly, this meter transmits usage data (over the 3G network) to the supply company (via the DCC, or 'Data Collection Company') and it can communicate over the HAN (home area network) with a display unit, to give the customer real-time information on consumption, daily totals, costs etc. In practice, though, forget it. Even if they did eventually send me the display device, the data is only available via the display screen. There are other (expensive) ways of obtaining the data that require a third-party company/device, but not for me. I suspect it's only half-hourly logging, anyway. The only useful information that I can get from the meter itself are the two kWh (import) registers - visible on a tiny LCD panel, and accessible through an undocumented, utterly convoluted and unmemorable series of ninja key presses on the two buttons, plus a solitary blinking red LED that blinks once per Wh imported. Smart, huh? So, I built a device to count the pulses with a 3DU5C Phototransistor, using a L239 comparator to clean the signal and send it on to an ESP8266 (I used a wemos D1 mini, as it's what I had). It's largely based on this project, but adapted for my needs (influxdb). The D1 mini connects to my wifi network and every minute logs the number of pulses it's seen since the last successful database write. It also calculates the current Wattage (simply by multiplying the duration between pulses - (1000 / pulseDuration) * 3600. It also writes to a 'night' db table when the rate changes, then a 'day' table when it changes back - the actual switching of rates I opted to do via a single UDP packet sent from a 'node-red' instance elsewhere, to avoid having to do any time keeping or NTP synchronisation on the device itself (I wouldn't want to risk missing any pulses). I found the pulses from my particular meter to be around 23ms long, so adjusted the MIN / MAX in the code accordingly. Naturally, there is an LED, which changes state whenever a pulse is detected. All housed in my trademark little grey plastic 3D printed box and clipped to the front of the meter (you can just use blu-tac, if you can remember where you put it) and powered via the micro-USB on the D1 mini. Viewed in Grafana, I can select any period of time and sum the number of pulses to get a fairly accurate idea of consumption over that period, enabling me to very quickly check my bills. I've also hard-coded in (to the Grafana dashboard) my tariff rates and standing charge - It also writes a '1' to a separate db table every night when the rate changes, to enable easy calculation of the daily standing charge. You can just about see above that at around 4.45am, my router rebooted (so communication with the db failed for about 90 secs), but the pulse reader just kept totting up the pulses until the db came back online, hence the thin spike. I hope this is useful for someone, or if not, at least interesting. 🙂 The code (I use 'Platformio') including libs is attached: Pulse Meter v0.05.zip

Just thought I'd share a tip, it might be useful for someone... Mainly for Victron users, but applicable elsewhere: If you find yourself needing 'MEGA' fuses for battery installations (68.5mm x 16.5mm, with M8 lugs) - particularly those rated to cope with a 48Vdc system [so 58v +], you'll be hard pressed to find any supplier in Europe offering them for less than about £30 GBP each. 😲 Well, CPC/Farnell (who can ship internationally) do them for about a tenth of the price. That is all. 🙂

I tend to agree. One thing that was clear in the UK Gov study I linked to above, is that they were struggling to find any instances of a fire directly attributable to the battery. Also the amount of effort the firefighters in your video put in to abusing the LFP, and it still won't burn. I like the way that at the end of the 'combustion' test, one of them even sticks an axe into it for good measure. 😁 All quite reassuring, really. I'd still like to see some 'real-world' tests, though. See how they stand up to the 'drunk Father-in-law who thinks he's an electrician', the 'incontinent dog marking his territory', or that most feared adversary of all: the 'curious 6-year-old boy with a stick'. 😬

Thanks. 🙂