BarendD

Saturday was a hot, sunny day, and we had a kid's party.  That involved people camping on the grounds in a caravan with an AC, as well as a jumping castle thing.  Because a lot of power was drawn the whole day, we actually produced more than 50kW during the day from the panels.  Incredible!

Off topic but I'm doing my application for SSEG and want to find out who did this diagram for you? If you did it yourself would you consider doing one for a fee? I have no idea how to do any of it.

Overstrand requires them. Can you advise on where I can get the coct drawings? You also have a WhatsApp message from me

It's a hand build custom stove. I was stupid when I ordered it to go all electric on the oven side. Sould have gone 2 electric and 1 gas. By the time I realised my mistake it was in a container on its way from France. 

@BarendD, are you located in Cape Town, if so, you don't have to do a line drawing, it is part of the online application, if not, you can use a drawing provided by CoCT.
I have always pointed the arrow on the CT towards the inverter in my installations and reversed the wires at the inverter if the CT is showing negative.

in your inverter box should be the manual, the diagrams are in there.
Or go here:
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I do not think those diagrams are suitable for SSEG applications. I may be wrong, I am sure some of the installers here on the forum could guide you on that.

Great to have helped, especially if it saves hard earned money. This powerforum has also saved me a lot too, so thumbs up to the system ops and users. 👍

Have you not missed a Zero or two on that amount. 🤔
What you could do is get a power monitor and see your general usage and peak usage for the month.
This way you can plan a system more accurately.
An example device is shown below.
https://sonoffafrica.co.za/product/sonoff-pow-ring-smart-power-meter/
 

Yip, limit is 60A. But based on my understanding there is some variance allowed.
Pulling more than 60A for extended time will cause issues... Good idea is to switch-off the geysers when starting the oven 😉 Buy yes there are some homes that will exceed this limit
 
 
 
 
 

Been looking at them now. Didn't know they exist. You just saved me so much money. Wifi/RF switches I was going to use is R1k+ a switch. They sell 4 channel switches for R800. Im going complete smart home and until now I needed about 5 apps to run everything. They sell everything I need and everything runs off 1 app! 
THANK YOU!!!

If you were talking about the diagram @WannabeSolarSparky posted on Thursday - it is from the Sunsynk manual with some editing I guess. 

My 2c, the simplest to avoid getting lost in terminology and how it gets applied, is in SA to speak of an aircon for room temperature control and making sure in the specs it has dual heating and cooling functions. Many modern aircons do anyway.
In other parts of the world an aircon seems to refer to cooling-only devices, as opposed to heat pumps that are ducted for both heating and cooling of rooms, so it's effectively usable all year round.
And as you said, a heat pump in SA generally refers to air-to-water-heat transfer devices, but you also get heat pump tumble driers that transfer heat from air-to-air. But nobody calls his fridge a heat pump though it works on a similar air-to-air principle just with the heat transfer directed outward of the appliance.

I'm in the design phase of a new house and want to run mostly off solar. I currently have a 8kw inverter and 7.5kw battery with a 3.9kw array so I understand some basics.
 
New property is in the WC and unfortunately due to the erf layout the roof will be east west. I also have a roof limit of 9 pannels per side because of HOA rules on having to have dormer windows.
I'm considering a 16kw Deye or Sunsync inverter with 15-30kw batteries. I'm trying to figure out what are the largest pannels I can use. I see many adverts saying the Deye/Sunsync has a limit of 8 x 550w pannels per mppt with 3 mppt's. This means I would be limited to 8 a side. 
Any insight into the max pannel capacity and or other options would be greatly appreciated. 
 
Thanks in advance

AFAIK the MPPT range is where it is most effecient. My personal experience has been that the efficiency is the same even when operating at the lower value. 50V in my case. There is the school that propose to get to the middle of the MPPT range. This operating voltage is then the Vmp as per specs on the panels. 

@BarendD Bottom line is, it will work well enough. But the panels will not operate at 5x48Voc, it will mainly operate at around 5xVmp. Thumbsuck around 5x40V=200V. As long as that value is somewhere comfortably within the MPPT operating range of 150-425V, you should be fine, it should work, even if it's not bang on the nominal 370V. As long as 5xVoc is not below the start-up Voltage, and 5xVmp is not close to the very bottom end of the MPPT's operating range.
I used to run a set of panels with Voc=260V and Vmp around 210V, so it's not far off from what you're planning here, and it was okay.

I don't think it's bad to start thinking about your system now but be open to listening to your installer as well. With the benefit of a site visit he should be able to add insights that are not said or seen by the forumites. You're on the right track with thinking to add the carport onto the 3rd MPPT. On the other hand, maybe the 250 degree panels facing slightly South-West could be iffy.
Voc - Open circuit Voltage
Vmp - Voltage at maximum power point
Isc - Short-circuit current
Imp - Current at maximum power.
Basically, check these specs on the panel's datasheet, and make sure that in your panel configuration you keep within the limits of the inverter's input requirements. If you search the forum there are probably more than a few discussions on this, but you could also ask your installer to check and confirm.