Jay-Dee

Do you know how many cycles and what the SOH is reporting? Where about in CPT are you?

The final solution was to remove the inverters' ESKOM supply off the RCD. The issue we have since discovered was due to poor earth being supplied mains board but I still to this day dont understand why it was an issue when the panels specifically got wet. The Sunsynks having a different earth bonding to my old Axpert made the poor earth became more of a problem and evident. Since, we have actually renovated and moved the DB and at the same time, resolved the earthing problem. Like a few of you have mentioned, we have (and always had) multiple RCDs. Our issue came in originally is that it would trip the RCD supplying the inverter. Fortunately, while we found a way around the problem at the time, we have also resolved the problem since.

Hi Thaabit. I swore I would never be that guy to say this but if you not able to follow the technicalities of the conversation, please for the sake of safety and as well as expensive equipment, please find another electrician. Each solution will be different. The accounts of this post is what worked for me with my Sunsynk inverter but as mentioned in the post, the problem did not exist with my previous Axpert inverter, so there is nothing to say that it is the same problem as your FoxESS system. I also have other sites with Sunsynks installed matching my original setup and have never had this issue, so it was something unique to my house and my earthing being more sensitive. Your best bet would be to find another electrician who works with solar installations and show them this post. Hopefully if they dont know already, it may point them in the right direction but please note... The opinions of all in this post are DIYers and need to be considered as such and taken at ones own risk

Have a look at the below video... Originally it was the discharge rate and life cycle... Now presumably, it is just the life cycle https://youtu.be/w3rFYIcT-lY

An alternative link if you want to compare and you could message the user to ask re the files

https://portal.segensolar.co.za/reseller/docs/Application note for upgrading UP5000 to 0.9C battery (1).pdf How to and links included

Don’t know about the new model at all. When I reached out to them with BMS issues, I did not get a usable response. So I would not rely on their reputation personally Re the Pylontechs… from my understanding and reading… all UP5000’s get the upgrade… you just need to update to the latest firmware

So, I got my comms working between the Sunsynk and the Narada batteries (I have / had 2) but the issue came in with when I put my setup in "load shedding mode" i.e. only used the batteries in load shedding, the SOC being reported by the BMS was very wonky. The batteries would remote 100% SOC at 49v and obviously then deplete quickly. This was caused when the batteries were floated for a week or more without any load shedding. This issue does not happen when running an Axpert Inverter with ICM or Solar Assistant controlling the system via the BMS, so I know it is a combined Sunsynk and Narada issue. I then moved my batteries to AGM mode on the Sunsynk, controlled the batteries via voltage and completely ignored the SOC of the BMS... This worked perfectly. I then connected the BMS to ICM and compared the SOC readings in there to the voltages to fine tweak the settings on the Sunsynk. I did not have a problem at all with this setup and ran perfectly for about a year. I am not upgrading my setup and did not want invest more into Naradas when it was a make do / work around... Having had Hubbles at another site working almost perfectly, I know how much easier things are when you able to communicate properly and considering the Naradas are not cheaper... I moved things around and am enjoying my Pylontechs. The other big advantage of the Pylontechs is being able to mix and match battery sizes as this has allowed me to purchase lightly used units at great prices. As mentioned originally... If you are purchasing and not re-purposing... I would go Pylontech as the Naradas are not cheaper / much cheaper

Narada's are still working well but I have moved them off my Sunsynk setup and back to Axperts inverters at the office(s). On my Sunsynk, I have gone Pylontech on the one and Hubble on the other... Hubble is great and value for money but I do have to reset the batteries if they drain below the inverters shut off settings (currently set at 20%). The Pylontechs are just rock solid... The 5kw unit has also been upgraded to a 90A charge/discharge rating which makes it very competitive and well priced I had the Narada's working with the Sunsynk but the BMS did not like it 100% and if you are purchasing, I would not recommend. If you have them already, different story

I am busy building myself a Pylontech battery bank and was wondering about the discharge rates when using a mixture of models. Currently I have 2x US 3000C's and 1x UP 5000... I know the US 3000C has a discharge amperage of 37A each and the UP 5000 of 50A. Does this mean when running all together, I will have a total of 124A or would it drop the UP 5000 to match that of the 3000s and result in a 111A total? I have checked the BMS screen on my Sunsynk inverter and it says 124 but I had read a while back that it would drop them to all match. Main reason for asking is the idea was to purchase different sizes as I found decent 2nd hand ones to expand affordably and I wanted to add some US 2000s but don't want to cripple my system with a 25A limit per battery. At the moment, I can test the total 124A as it is connected to a 5KW inverter which maxes out at 100A - first world problems 🤣 (All batteries are connected via a bus bar, so I am not worried about the individual cables and being daisy chained)

Again, thank you... Just downloaded the current version of manual and it is very different to my original printed copy. Going to save changes to the system until the new setup as we will need to do a firmware update too

With this now confirmed for me otherwise, changes my method of setup (knowledge = power) and definitely is going to push me to 2x 5KW to start as if I can drop off the extra load under certain conditions then it may negate the need for the 3rd inverter. Thanks again to both of you

That is amazing to know... I was told and thought otherwise at the time of my original install (good thing, I am getting a different company this time around) Thanks again for confirming

100%... but I also own the 8KW and hence the conundrum. As you mentioned, the MPPT's are a big factor for me and I think that will sway it alone and may also land up pushing / motivating the 3rd unit. My proposed panel setup is going to be as follows 5x 550w NE facing on a garage roof 4x 550w NE facing on the lounge roof 6x 495w (space limitation) NE facing on new bedroom roof 6x 550w E facing on bedroom roof If was to add the additional inverter, I would add another 6 panel West facing on the back of the bedroom roof and have 1x MPPT spare for who knows where 🤣. In an ideal world, I don't want to combine 2 of the sections onto 1 MPPT as shading happens at different times of the day and this would be needed on the 8KW option Going with the 2x 5KW to start would allow me to run the system and work out the cost benefit of the 3rd inverter and additional panels vs our actual consumption as currently it is all theoretical with the geyser, stove and hob all being electric.

That is so interesting... Am I presuming correctly though you are using the AUX and not everything through essentials? If so, am I correct that the AUX items cant be used during load shedding? Also wonder what the long term effect (if any) would be on the inverter