Magetsi

Thanks Marius. How does one tell that water level is dropping while pumping. The flow appears steady the whole time. im thinking of filling up my tank then do test run that way.

Hi All, I have a well point water pump that has recently started to behave erratically. It used to run perfectly, but now it runs for about 30 minutes initially, then stops. After that, it starts and runs for approximately 5 minutes before stopping again. Does anyone have any ideas on how to troubleshoot this issue? The pump is used for watering the garden. The graph below shows the pump's activity today. It was switched on at 13:30 and off at 16:30. During this time, the power draw indicates when the pump was starting and stopping on its own.

found out from automation that its back, my loadshedding timer beeped and came back to life

Thanks Bobster and Zsde, I guess I will try the rubber gasket and element first. If this does not work out then will replace. Thanks but, the answer is dictated by the most logical solution. When I have an endless supply of money, I will go with your advice before anything ideas and when water drips onto element, nothing happens. geyser element is permanently off. I use heat pump

Hi all Looking for some advice on my golden oldie kwikot geyser. The geyser has been working flawlessly for the past 7years. I believe the geyser is older than 10 years. My issue is that geyser has developed a leak on the cover plate holding element. The water is dripping and at times the drip is almost running. From various forums I have picked up that possibly the rubber flange and the element might be gone and needs to be replaced. Iam considering replacing the flange and may be the element and then monitor. My plumber recommendation was to claim from insurance and get a new geyser. Iam not keen on this without first being 100% certain that I can squeeze a few more years from this geyser given that newer seem to have lifespan of about 5years. What do you think guys?

Thanks, i will check on that. I didnt know what a strainer is, but now I know. I will check and ensure that it is installed.

Thanks. I guess I can ignore the gauge then and enjoy the heat pump. The metallic sound is not too loud. Its just something that you hear after a while and you have to pay attention in order to hear it possibly because of the age of the unit.

Hi everyone, I'm sharing my experience with reducing reliance on Eskom for hot water heating while using solar panels. Solar Power and Winter Woes I started with a 2.7kW solar panel system, which worked great in summer, keeping my Eskom bill low (around R300-R500). However, winter brought challenges. With additional guests and heavy geyser usage, my bill skyrocketed to R2,000 for 500 units. I realised adding more panels or battery wouldn't help as the geyser draws the most power at night when there's no sun. Enter the Heat Pump After research and discussion on forums, I decided to try a used 4.7kW ITS heat pump. It's been a game-changer! My average daily usage this winter dropped from 28kW (with the 3kW geyser element) to just 4-7kW! The biggest advantage is that the heat pump works even on cloudy days, i could never turnon gyeser when the sun was producing around 1Kw. I'm sold on the technology and plan to replace this used unit with a new one when needed. Heat Pump Questions Gauge Reading: My ITS heat pump has a gauge that moves towards the yellow section when running. It never exceeds 65 degrees or 2.75 on the scale. While I understand red is bad, I can't find information on interpreting this gauge reading. Could someone explain its purpose? Metallic Sound: When the water temperature reaches around 49 degrees, a metallic sound seems to come from the compressor. Is this normal? I'm new to heat pumps and haven't witnessed one in operation before. I hope my experience helps others to make informed decisions about reducing Eskom reliance.

Iam happy on my end. Winter is just unavoidable and i have no more funds to upgrade .

i got my solar in July 5kw Battery and 2.7Kw Panels and noticed the following, Before solar my daily usage averaged 15-17Kw. Heater and Cooker are the heaviest hogs starting at 530PM -through to 1159pm With Solar and my system set to prioritise load. I get 7kw during the day and 8-11kw at night Overal change to bill was zero, before solar Eskom Bill R1000, Now Eskom Bill R1000. No change but I assume i would have paid more without solar. I then changed my system such that my system now prioritises home load, so far it looks good. over the last 30 Days, i am averaging 3-4Kw per day and 11-13 kw battery and solar. but then its summer as well. More sun more power. 10Kw Battery is the best. Thats a future wish for me.

to validate that your battery is connected while using the splitter, just go on the inverter and on the settings, selectthe icon for LIBMS(bottom right hand corner), it shows values when battery is connected. not values when not connected.

I see you will be sorted. No more worries here😃

All Green is not used on my config. it appears not that much relevant. Unless you have the rs385 which requires the ground.

I did not want to cut the battery cable or change anything on the cable for the battery or risk anything at all, hence i went with a splitter which has the sockets. I therefore never bothered validating which pins are for the battery. But based on what i have gathered from PICs found on this forum yes 4 and 5 are the pins.

I made mine. I Bought one which I am expecting today. I will test the new one and let you know. The one iam expecting, I bought from pishop online

Now you can put back yellow cable and start hunting for a RJ45 splitter. Yes you should be able to use B. Just a note on the splitters. They don't come equal. Some splitters don't have all pins connected.

RMS meter did not work at all for me. So stick to the middle. You will need a splitter. I used a splitter.

Your image is exactly like mine. That means the middle port bms485/can is what you must use. On the cable part yes using own crimping can be a nightmare. Get a factory made working cable and cut it , then determine which wires are on pin 1 and 2.

You can share the slave picture for the ports, iam still eager to see the working esp32 tested on the slave.

Donovan, you highlighted that one inverter is working and the other is not. This means that working esp device is proven, you can remove it from the working inverter and use it to test your second inverter until you get a working configuration. You can start by removing it from the working inverter and plugging in to the nonworking now and check if you still get data. If you do get data then it means your other esp is not working due to config or wiring issues. If it does not work first time, then you would need to change the IDs in the config file as suggested until you get a working config. It helps to attach the config files well. Sometime we make silly typos that we cannot find on our own but extra set of eyes comes in handy. That applies to to providing images of your devices as well. unknown status simply means no comms from inverter.

hi The below suggests that you have set id to 1 in both files. Can you either update your yaml to id to 2 modbus_controller: - id: sunsynk address: 0x02 modbus_id: sunsynk_modbus setup_priority: -10 update_interval: "300s" command_throttle: "50ms" I could be wrong, I only have 1 device.

time for treasure hunt, start with the fridge. I do see spikes that correspond with my meter on the fridge occasionally higher than expected.

I think you need to shop and get a feel of the price. I had mined for installed for 130k , that is 5kw sunsynk inverter and 5kw sunsynk battery with 6x460W JA Panels. The lowest quote was 110k. My most expensive was 172k. Your quoted price is dodgy.

cant wait for you to send it my way.

Hi All I am looking for assistance with my issue with the data collection setup. I have an esp32dev paired with TTL to RS385 converter and I have noted that the detail being reported is plainly incorrect. Occasionally the detail reflects correctly for some of the registers. I initially thought maybe the TTL converter might be acting up, I got another TTL converter but the results are the same. My device is running the following firmware M3.3.8.2/S1.5.1.5/CE.4.2.6. I have enabled debugging but I have not been able to determine what could be wrong. i have uploaded the log file logs_sunsynk_run(2).txt