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  1. Hi Deon, I have never thought of that, not a bad idea, but still I would prefer it the way I suggested, that would be the ultimate.
  2. I have spoken to Keith personally about this feature. He also suggested that I change the SOC setting during the day. That's great and that can work, but still is not the answer, what do I do at night time? I think the only way we will get our wish if we can get as many people as possible to vote and then send this through to Keith. Do any body maybe know if Sunsynk have like a wish list forum or a place where you can add this as a wish for new features'?
  3. I have read through this and want to know, I have connected my whole house hold to the Load Output, and the geyser and the stove I connected to the none essential side or lets call it the local grid before the inverter. I have a Deye which is essentially the same thing. I am running my inverter on Zero Export to CT and not pushing back into national grid (Solar sell not ticked), this gives me the option to during the day to use solar power to run my geyser and oven and it works very good, obviously not working when load shedding. However my problem is that should your geyser and oven run and the PV can not supply enough power it will first start running from battery if its above the SOC setting and only when battery reaches the SOC you set it will start pulling from national grid. This also happens at night time when there is no PV power, it depletes the battery first. No this is my issue I have spoken to Deye and Sunsynk to add one flag to the Zero Export to CT which you can tick(use no battery). This will then give you as user the option to prevent your battery from draining day or night when using none essential loads and also give you the benefit if there is excess PV power during the day to use for your geyser and stove or aircons without draining the battery. This is almost the same function as using the Smart load without installing the extra cables and switches, just set a flag! Does this make sense to any body? I can not persuade Deye or Sunsynk that this is a good idea. Please give feedback as if we can get enough users that want the same thing we can put some pressure on the manufactures.
  4. I have been installing solar systems and have been installing the ZN-shine for the last 1.5 years. The panels are great, I have not had any problems so far. I have the 370 Watt panels on my roof and I have installed them on 2 other projects as well. I have not had any comebacks so far and yes my vote also goes to Sunsynk, You can also have a look at the Dyness batteries, I have used them on all my projects. So far no problems.
  5. I have a Deye, but I have tried to speak to there Technical support and they first of all do not really understand what you are trying to tell them and where just refering you back to the manual which do not have a solution of what I want to do. In the other hand I have contacted Sunsynk, they where willing to talk to me and I do not even have a Sunsynk, They have a British guy Steve which do all there promotional videos and if not mistaken is one of the founders and director of Sunsynk. I contacted him and he was willing to have a 30 minute personal talk to me. He could understand me. So I have a Deye inverter, but the Sunsynk manual is much better, there user interface is more appealing to me and they seem to be the leader between the two. Sunsynk now is beta testing a Wifi dongle which is not the third party Solarman one that they both use, but this new wifi interface you will be able to setup your inverter remotely. Deye will probably follow soon, but my experience is that Sunsynk is the front runner and as far as the hardware is concerned there is no difference. I can not speak for the Fusion as I have had no experience with them.
  6. This is what I do, have done the PV Green Card Installation Course. This is what is recommended. A fuse on the Positive and Negative legs, a surge protector and a Double Pole Isolator switch. See drawings below. No fuses on the roof, only connectors where you can disconnect if needed. If you disconnect make sure the fuse on bottom panel are disconnected as it can cause big spark. Earth the Solar panel structure and connect to a separate earth Pin, 1.5mters so that lighting would be taken direct to ground and not to Electrical Earth. I ordered all component's from Solar Europe in Pretoria. Solar Europe - Solar Energy Brands Importer and Distributor (solar-europe.co.za) 07 Panel PV Isolation Layout.pdf 08 Panel PV Isolation Layout.pdf
  7. Hi All, I am trying to run my Grid-Tie side during the day from Solar Produced power and at night only from grid, I never want the Grid-Tie side to use battery power. The reason for this is. I connected my geyser, stove and Aircon to the Grid-Tie side. I have set the Grid Settings System Work Mode settings to Zero Export To CT, then on the System Work Mode I have set the Time of Use function and set my battery to SOC to 45%, keeping 45-10% for possible load shedding. I do not want to export any power to the grid. What happens, at night time or when there is not enough Solar Power during the day, the battery starts discharging to run any load that might appear on the Grid-Tie side from the battery. Once battery reaches 45%, then only, the load will run from the grid. To me it does not make any sense to ever run my Geyser, Stove or aircon from the battery. I have spoken to Deye technical support, they suggested that I use the Zero Export to Load and then tick the Solar Sell option. The problem, I have a pre-paid meter and therefor if all the excess power is not used on the the grid-tie side, the inverter starts exporting to grid. This can not work as the pre-paid meter will then charge you for the power pushed back into the grid. Do any one have a solution to this problem?
  8. I have an Mecer/Axpert SOL-I-AX-5M Inverter and a Lithium Ion Dyness 3.55 kWh battery. Does anyone know what the dip switch settings will be for the Dyness battery to work with the Axpert inverter?
  9. Hi there, I am looking at Inverters(3kVA-5kVA) and which way to go. I have been looking at Axpert and Growatt. Now the difference between these pricewise is within the same ballpark figure, but the guarantee is 1 year(Axpert) versus 5 years(Growatt) which sort of making me lean more towards the Growatt. The question is what is the experience out there? Can we have some feedback of people that have been using these two types of inverters. 1. The reliability of these inverters 2. Guarantee issues, do they honour there guarantees? 3. Software/hardware for monitoring performance between these 2 types 4. How do they compare in options you can set for different types of operation?
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