Wanda

It is actually an error code found in the Axperts that offer PYL or other lithium battery Comms. It's a Communication error. Happens when you have menu 5 setup to a Lithium battery setting and the inverter cannot communicate with the said battery. What it does do is disable charge and discharge. Because the logic is that your communication cannot be established so the inverter basically goes into a safety mode of stopping input and output. 
To my knowledge, the Pylontech uses the RS485 port of the battery. If you by mistake use the CAN RJ45 port you will pick up this error or if your cable is not crimped correctly it will also produce this error. 
Ok I see that you are using a VM3 so this is not applicable to you but users that have parallel options like on the King or the MKS3 and later models. One inverter is set to PYL on menu 5 and the other is set to USE settings. The one that is actually connected to the battery must have the PYL setting. It doesn't matter if it's the Master inverter or Slave. 
Maybe this helps someone else with this dreaded error. 

Maybe this will help
https://powerforum.co.za/topic/7052-kodak-axpert-king-dreaded-error-61/
Or hang in there and some clever folk on the forum will assist

Hi guys,
so, if you want to check the status of your Pylontech Phantom-S, US2000 or US3000, there's a great diagnostic tool for this called BatteryView.
*DISCLAIMER:
*Please note that with the information written below, you can effectively destroy your batteries, or invalidate your warranty.
*Do what you like, but I take no responsibility for your actions and results.
 
First, you have to create a Serial Console cable, as no such cable comes in the box with the batteries. Here's the wiring:
Plug the RJ-11 connector of the cable into the CONSOLE PORT of the TOP BRICK of you battery stack. Just to be sure, the top brick is the one that have LinkPort0 EMPTY. Next, plug the cable into your laptop's serial port, or USB2Serial adapter. Launch the app and choose the serial port name according to your's laptop configuration. IE COM1, COM2, COM6... Baudrate is 115200. If you have more Pylon bricks stacked, then check the "Parallel" box and select the number of bricks that you have in a single stack. Click OK to connect to the BMS. If you did everything correctly, the app will scan all the bricks and will show you the operational parameters, like cell voltages, current, temperature, SoC... There's a couple more charts available under the "Windows" menu, like Voltage/Amps curve, etc.
Be carefull, as this tool is used also for updating firmware. So, don't screw up your battery...  
For the experts, there's even a possibility to open a CLI, where you can query much more detailed info.
You can SET the values, test the circuits, perform shutdown, etc.
This CLI is so powerfull, that it's actually scary.

Well, if you're not a certified Pylontech expert, don't touch it, please!
 
ATTACHMENT:
BatteryView.zip
 

The OP has a VM III model, which has a removable display. For most such models, setting 5 (battery type) has extra options, including PyL for Pylontech. The display has its own processor and an RS485/CAN port intended for connecting to the BMS of a battery. 

I have the battery type setting on "Pylon" which is a custom setting for Pylontech batteries. I would assume that in this set up the battery is controlled by the Pylontech  BMS settings and as such I'm not able to make any battery charging parameter.
If I pull off the comms cable the Inverter goes into alarm mode since it's set on Pylon which requires comms. If I change to USER DEFINED the battery works fine but I prefer comms as the battery & inverter are compatible.

This was common with the early Axpert inverters, e.g. the ones I use which are rated at 5 kVA and 4 kW. That means a load with a power factor of 0.8 will reach both limits at the same time. Usually, this means that the current in the load lags the voltage (inductive load, like a motor), so that the product of voltage and current (the apparent power, measured in VA or kVA) is 5/4 of the real power. Real power is what you pay for, and what the battery has to provide (and a bit more to cover losses). Reactive power means that instantaneous power flows from the inverter output to and from the load, twice per 50 Hz cycle. These instantaneous powers cancel each other out, as far as real power that makes things happen is concerned.
In effect, the inverter-proper (the DC-AC converter) in my Axperts is rated at 5 kVA, i.e. they can power a 230 V load at 5000/230 = 21.7 A. But the DC-DC converter (between the battery and the input of the inverter-proper) is only rated at 4 kW (plus a bit more for losses). Call it 80 A from the 50 V battery, or 88 A with losses. So when Voltronic updated their designs to PF1, they had to beef up the DC-DC converter to handle 5 kW, so now the inverter-proper can power a unity power factor load at 230 V and 21.7 A. So the newer 5 kVA PF1 models have DC-DCs that can take 100 A from the battery, or 110 A with losses.
That's the proper use of the term "power factor". Utilities care about poor power factor, because it causes extra currents in their conductors that they don't get paid for. Those extra currents cause extra heating, and they have to supply heavier copper to compensate.

The smaller models (less than 4 kW) often have firmware that handles a variety of models, with different power ratings and battery voltages. At power-up, the processor reads one or two pins and based on the voltage found there, sets itself up for a particular power and battery voltage combination. It seems to be reading the wrong voltage in this case.
Another possibility is that it's a clone, and the clone makers have copied the wrong firmware, or not set up the resistors correctly.
Either way, it's not fit for purpose, so you should demand a replacement. At the very least, they could send you a new control card, which is where the power/voltage combination is determined. Though some smaller models have the control chip on the main board, in which case you'd need a new main board.
Good luck getting it fixed.
It's a shame if they have to junk that unit; all it takes to fix it is to replace one or two resistors that cost less than one US cent each. But which ones and which values? Unfortunately, schematic diagrams are not published.

I don't think firmware should do that, after all, the label does not mention 12V at all, thus I'd think the unit may have a fault, but I don't know this unit at all, so I could be wrong.
Looking at the serial number 202010.... might indicate that the unit is barely or less than a year old, so hopefully it still is under guarantee and the supplier can help resolve the issue.