Scubadude

Quite a common installation error - it took three or four tries for my guy to get it right. First he had non-essentials on aux. Then everything was essential. Then essential and non-essential was corect but CT coil in the wrong place.

^^^ What he said

Hi all, Had a stange incident this morning where the inverter input tripped without any major production or consumption. Typical early morning usage with one geyser working and couple of kettle boils. Any idea why this would trip?

Not really ... the invereter senses supply and load and balances everything. The purpose of the CT coil is to stop backfeeding into the grid.

Yes. The auto changeover is a workable solution for a generator or off-grid inverter. But the Deye is a hybrid model, i.e. it seamlessly changes from grid-tied to off-grid as and when requried.

Don't understand what he tried to do here. The inverter kicks in automatically when the grid is lost - no need for automated change over. What you need is a manual changeover to be able to effectively control and isolate energy sources.

Easy ... install it any way around - if it shows nagative grid power invert the leads om the inverter. Job done.

BAT Shoto-Product-Manual.pdf This is the one I got with my batteries. Not quite the 5.12kWh version but close enough ...

More light reading here .... https://www.eskom.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/State-of-the-SystemBriefing11May2022.pdf

And to answer your question, this gives some clues ... Eskom plans to have more units operating in winter to match increased demand. Problem is if the old ladies keep breaking down faster than you can fix them. Which is where we are now.

Source: Own analysis on Eskom se Push historical data

I'm busy justifiying a generator and solar expansion project at work. Found the Eskom se Push history online here https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ZpX_twP8sFBOAU6t--Vvh1pWMYSvs60UXINuD5n-K08/edit#gid=863218371 Easy enough to calculate duration of each stint and GWh shed. The real situation is worse than the graph @Bobster posted - the graph shows hours only which should be mulplied by stage to get GWh shed. 2018 Full Year: 220 GWh 2019 Full Year: 1328 GWh shed 2020 Full Year: 1782 GWh shed 2021 Full Year: 2494 GWh shed 2022 YTD 10 May: 1238 GWh shed

OK, so the installer basically arranged the strings as two rows. The problems is the one palm shades the edge of both strings in the morning and the other shades the other end of both strings in the afternoon. This makes for a very nawrrow operating window during our shorter winter days. So I want to re-arrange the strings to split the array East/West rather than North/South. Two questions: 1. Do you think this will improve winter yield? 2. Who could I get to do this little job for me - my installer seems to have gone awol and most installers dont want to pick up small maintenance jobs.

Several users have had the master BMS fail in multi-battery set-ups. Supposedly resolved now but check that the batteries are 2022 production.

And fixed. Upside is I have a spare TSE power supply board if anyone has a need for it ...

Well spotted @BritishRacingGreen ... fried neutral in the main DB. I'm no electrician but clearly the one that wired this board wasn't one either - didnt even bother to secure the wire. Will fix it in the morning when the wife and kids have gone out for the day.

Thanks BRG! I'll trace it tonight ... there is only the trip switch and isolator in the circuit. But what could cause this to change all of a sudden after months of faultless operation?

OK, so I tested the old PSU board with a plugged cable and it is working. So now either something in the wiring between the DB board and the PSU changed (unlikely) or something on the geyser has side changed. I'm at a complete loss here ... anyone have any ideas what to test next?

Fuse is intact on both PSU boards - silly me I should have checked that first of course. Unplugging the leads makes no difference. One thing that looks odd is I get +/-230V between L and GND, and the same between N and GND, but 3 or 4 V between L and N. Is that right? Even if it isnt, it was like that since I had the geyser installed in Jan 2021, or as a minimum since the ocmpletion of my solar installation in December last year.

OK being time deprived I picked up the board and replaced it ... No joy! LED in the middle still dead. Control panel still dead. Now what? Suppose the board could be a dud but what are the chances?

Brilliant! Either that or the complete board from Geyserwise for around R400. If the PSU replacement involves soldering I may just go for the board ...

OK .. some basic fault tracing done. All cables are in tact and the TSE power supply has 230V on L1 and L2 but the little LED on the PSU board is dead. DIY PSU replacement or should I pay the call out fee and let the pro's do it? Where can I buy the PSU ex stock in Pretoria / Centurion / Cosmo City?

Hi all, I had an EVT solar geyser installed January 2021 Nd along with it Geyserwise controllers for this and another geyser. Last night around 9pm I started switched on the kitchen (solar) geyser when my wife complained the water was cold. This morning the Geyserwise panel is dead. Consumption on Solarman shows it started momentarily then off. Is this a common occurrence? And best way to fix it? Worth calling the Geyserwise number on the panel?

Had lunch with him and the tannie today ... no joy yet. He bought a pure sine wave inverter which he returned as it had a very noisy fan day and night. Still looking for a cost effective solution.

Saw this today ... Townhouse in Gordons Bay severely damaged by a gel battery explosion. What would cause this?