Mier

Just some feedback. We logged a return with the supplier. RCT replaced the motherboard under warranty. Back to normal operation again.

Good day, Our estate has a small RCT Axpert 1000W 12v inverter which is used for backup power for streetlights etc. (about 300W total load). It's connected to a Hubble S-100A battery. It's been running perfectly fine since July 2023. However, the inverter is no longer supplying any output power during load-shedding. There is no alarm/fault code and the inverter display shows that the battery is full (13.7v), the grid input voltage is 0v, Output is 230V AC, and load is 0%. A multimeter confirms 0V AC at the inverter's output connecter. When grid returns, the AC on the inverter output is also back. We have switched the inverter on/off - same behaviour. Also, changed from Apl to Ups - same behaviour. Any thoughts, assistance will be much appreciated. Thanks

Looking for a 12v lithium battery for use with an axpert 12v/1000w inverter for our Estate. Typical load ~300-400W (some street lights, access control system, couple of CCTV cams). I personally own a AM-2 and I'm aware of challenges with that battery, but what about the S100A (first life cells, not 2nd cell like the non-"A" version)? Any issues that I should know about, or can we confidently go the S100A route ? Thanks in advance.

Thanks. Looks it hasn't changed recently from what I have. (My AM2 uses the file that ends with 2.50, but your file (4.50) was part of the package I got.)

Hi What's the latest FW version numbers? Thanks

Awesome. Grabbed. Thanks a lot !

Can someone please hook me up with the latest update SW and FW ? I logged a ticket with Hubble two weeks ago via their raiseaticket portal, but no response. My battery is still fine after ~170 cycles, but PBMSTools shows I'm on FW 1.43 (P13S120A-12290-1.43), so I want to do a pro-active update. I think there's at least a FW 1.50 available, according to this screenshot here: @swazz99jhb Much appreciated

(I tossed that filter in the bin... )

USB. I got a cable in the box. (Even the first digits of the serial numbers are similar )

You're not going to be connecting any load or battery to it. The inverter itself uses less than 60W< so you really don't need a very think cable to power it. 3 core, 1.5mm should do it. It's about as complex as fitting a 3-pin plug, but rather get someone to help if you are unsure. For actual installation and wiring into your DB / Battery, definately get an electrician if you have any doubt. You must get it CoC'd anyway to ensure saftely and avoid issues with your issurance if things go wrong.

I obviously can't gaurantee that your inverter is 100% identical (may even have different FW), but I'm happy to give some pointers (or inverter manual, screenshots etc). This inverter can start up without battery (some Axpert inverters can't). Before I had my battery or installed the inverter, I made up a simple cable to connect the inverter to a standard 3-pin plug outlet, just to check for out-of-box failure and to test the SW etc. There are a few things to be aware of with this inverter, such as the need for an external Earth/Neurtral bond relay. You can check out my install here, if you like

If you're based in Cape Town, just know that this inverter is not on the city's list of approved inverters, so it will be a problem to register your solar system as required by the council.

That looks like an Infinisolar clone. Appears to be similar to what I have (just different brand/colour). I've been running it since April 2021 with a Hubble AM-2. You will need the software called SolarPower to configure the inverter initially, but thereafter I would recommend SolarAssistant because it acts as a sort of bridge between Inverter and battery.

Also interested to know. At 100% my difference between highest and lowest cell is 0.048V, at 50% soc it's about 0.01V. My AM2 is at 161 cycles by the way. Edit:Typo

RS232 I don't have a cloudlink, so no idea if you can use it in parallel.

I'm running SA with AM-2. Got a USB<>Serial cable from SA

SolarAssistant can communicate directly with the Hubble BMS. They also sell the cable on their website

Look at this post on the other forum (even if this is a roofed patio it seems): https://mybroadband.co.za/forum/threads/the-battery-thread-solar-inverter.1071211/post-29116536 - very neat installation. Also consider the weight of the equipment, especially the battery, so you may want to mount it into the wall, not the cabinet. Which means, possibly weather sealing around (or at least on top of) the cabinet so that water don't run down between the wall and cabinet. If possible, you could mount through the back of the cabinet into the wall, as apposed to cutting the back out completely. Anyway, there's a way things to consider, but it can be done though and may even look aesthetically pleasing while also being a little better from security and warranty point of view too.

Maybe use something like this: Keter - Wood Grain Multipurpose Outdoor Cabinet | Buy Online in South Africa | takealot.com Keter High Store Plus Garden Shed | Buy Online in South Africa | takealot.com You may need to add some ventilation / fans to keep the temperature under control, though.

I have an Infinisolar 3k+ clone, so no comms between inverter and battery. Solar Assistant connected to both for monitoring.

Unfortunately not. The serial number suggests it was manufactured January 2022.

Interestingly, I installed a new AM-2 this morning the Capacity showed 100AH, the SoC was ~50% (shipping voltage I suppose). It proceeded to charge up to 103.4% SoC. Now, after about an hour, the Capacity is shown as 103.4 AH and SoC is 100%.

You should also consider the current rating of the cable and spec the fuses to protect the cable too.

Nevermind the 4mm cable, but... am I correct that the breaker to the far left is you MAIN breaker coming from the grid ? Because it looks like the inverter is fed from BEFORE this breaker ? It also looks like you have a mix of essential and non-essential in the same board. And to make it worst circuit one is ESSENTIAL, then 2 and 3 is NON-ESSENTIAL (and not EL protected), then 3,5,6 ESSENTIAL again ?

@AC-DC I only have one battery, but my cable is 35mm sqr @system32 You mention using the standard Hubble cables for interlinks. If I remember that's 16mm sqr. My understanding is that the current should flow equally to/from each battery (1/4 of current to/from each). Would that not mean that your first interlink would carry 3/4 of the current and therefore possibly underspec'd ? Just an update on my battery: Hubble tested the battery and confirmed that I have a faulty cell. They will be replacing the battery in the next few days when more stock arrives. So, kudos to Hubble for their support and after-sales service.