Hi

No more electricity at home, it's smell in the garage like electronics component has burned.

Now my inverter is in fault, F12 and F03, it show me 600V on PV1 and PV2 input. PV1 is cut and PV2 is not connected and we are at night !!!

He is restarting alone every 30 seconds.

Inverter was working very well since 6 month without problem.

Some idea ?

Thanks

 

Edited March 12, 20224 yr by bib60

17 hours ago, bib60 said:

it's smell in the garage like electronics component has burned.

I'm sorry to hear that.

17 hours ago, bib60 said:

it show me 600V on PV1 and PV2 input.

I assume it would never actually see this sort of voltage in real life?

17 hours ago, bib60 said:

Some idea ?

Hopefully you can get it repaired under warranty. Is there a changeover switch so that you can run the house off utility power (when available, obviously) in the meantime?

The restarting may mean a power supply fault, or short somewhere that the firmware doesn't detect in its self testing and start-up code.

Hi

Yes i can switch to the public electricity.

I've contacted the shop who sell me it to get waranty, wait and see.

I wanted to open it to see what did it burn, but i'm waiting answer from the shop before to know what to do. 

Thanks

 

 

 

6 hours ago, bib60 said:

I wanted to open it to see what did it burn, but i'm waiting answer from the shop

Wise. You can't open it properly without cutting a date sticker, and they might use that to say you voided the warranty.

As for what burned, it will probably be the usual suspects: a bunch of MOSFETs, the IGBTs, and probably some gate driver minor components. I doubt that they will board level fix this one, sadly.

Shop has answered me, i must send back to them the inverter, it will cost me shipping to international, shit, no more free electricity !!! 😀

Hi

My inverter has been repaired, the main motherboard has been changed. 

Shop send me pictures about it but not really tell me wich parts has burn.

Except that in parameter 13, back to discharge, i'd put 48V, they tell me it's too low when my battery is under charge and after no charge, voltage drop over 48V and inverter switch to bypass and so on, too many time, they suggest me to use 50V as parameter, if i do nothing they said it will append again in 6 or 12 month !!!  

So now i'm afraid that it append again ;-(

Do you know wich part on the mother board has burn and some idea why ? Is it really because of parameter 13 too low ?

Thanks

 

 

 

Edited March 29, 20224 yr by bib60

It is sad to read that this can happen due to switching between the 2 set points indicated. This could be type of problems why a well known installer does not install Axpert.

19 hours ago, bib60 said:

Except that in parameter 13, back to discharge, i'd put 48V, they tell me it's too low when my battery is under charge and after no charge, voltage drop over 48V and inverter switch to bypass and so on, too many time, they suggest me to use 50V as parameter, if i do nothing they said it will append again in 6 or 12 month !!!  

I don't think that's correct. At least in the 5 kW models that I'm more familiar with, there are delays in the firmware that mean that you can't change too quickly from battery to utility and back again; it will spend at least 10 minutes in utility mode for example.

 

19 hours ago, bib60 said:

Do you know which part on the mother board has burn and some idea why ? Is it really because of parameter 13 too low ?

It's hard for me to say; the 7.2 kW models are a fair bit different to the 5 kW models. It looks like something flashed over on the main board, causing some PCB tracks to burn, but I can't be sure. On a 5 kW model, there would be the current sensor around that area, and I don't see one, so that suggests it might have been that sensor that started the fault. But those things are generally fairly rugged; the current flows through a pretty substantial piece of metal with a lot of plastic around it to isolate the mains it's measuring from the sensitive analogue components. I'd say it's just one of those things that happens; it tends to happen more frequently on "version one" hardware, like the Max 7.2 (seems it was a learning model for the 8.0 kW models, and perhaps the 10 and 11 kW models that came after that).

As to whether setting 13 had anything to do with it: I'm highly sceptical.

Setting 13, in my Kodak 7.2 User Manual states 54V as the default for "Setting voltage point back to battery mode".

In the top line in small print it says "Available options for 48V model:" (meaning the 48V battery- as opposed to 24V batteries).

In the bottom line they state "Setting range from 48V to 62V". 

Maybe thats a reason for them not to hold you responsible?