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Superwatt 5000W 48V repair

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  • Author
On 2025/03/10 at 6:15 PM, fhocorp said:

@Shadders Nice approach 👍 I will check that when i return to my lab and i keep you informed 😄🤘

@Shadders this is not the soft start circuit. Values are correct. Here in attachements the soud of TX9 after powering on the circuit via the power button. Also D54 get very hot just in few seconds after powering on via the power button.

31 mars à 00.18​.aac

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  • The chip only turns on at 8.7 V. Recommended minimum is 12 V. It should run at about 15 V on Vcc (pin 7 to pin 5). The timing capacitor connects to pin 4. On my very old schematic, it is marked

  • @Shadders this is not the soft start circuit. Values are correct. Here in attachements the soud of TX9 after powering on the circuit via the power button. Also D54 get very hot just in few seconds af

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8 hours ago, fhocorp said:

the sound of TX9 after powering on the circuit via the power button. Also D54 get very hot just in few seconds after powering on via the power button.

TX9 noisy, D54 hot: looks like a short or overload on the 12 V line, either to GND or to -12 V. Is -12 V within 5% of 12 V?

  • Author
47 minutes ago, Coulomb said:

TX9 noisy, D54 hot: looks like a short or overload on the 12 V line, either to GND or to -12 V. Is -12 V within 5% of 12 V?

@Coulomb Measured on the FAN3 connector (CN12) witch is directly connected on the 12V output of the SMPS and no output measured. Already replaced the -12V regulator L7912CV. The shortcut on the 12V line could be done by components after D54 ? If so, what is the most frequently components you seen that probably failing ?

Edited by fhocorp

20 hours ago, fhocorp said:

The shortcut on the 12V line could be done by components after D54 ?

Yes.

20 hours ago, fhocorp said:

If so, what is the most frequently components you seen that probably failing ?

I would think the SG3525 though that would normally short to -12 V. Perhaps both 12 V rails are shorted to either each other, or to GND.

+12 V gets used by the control board, and it's easy to unplug that. Also by the relay drivers and parts of the gate drivers. A non-contact thermometer might be helpful; all that D54 current must be going somewhere, and that somewhere should be getting hot unless it's a really dead short, like a solder dag.

I've injected a few volts with a 3 A current limit from a bench power supply to find these sorts of faults. [ Edit: Into the shorted power supply. I always use a current limited power supply for the battery terminals. ] Traces carrying amps of current have millivolt drops across them; traces carrying next to no current do not. So you can find out where the current stops flowing along the trace; that's where the short must be. It might sometimes be easier to trace the current coming back via the GND or -12 V traces; the GND pours tend to be easier to spot.

Edited by Coulomb

  • Author
2 hours ago, Coulomb said:

I would think the SG3525 though that would normally short to -12 V. Perhaps both 12 V rails are shorted to either each other, or to GND.

@Coulomb Ok i will check this

2 hours ago, Coulomb said:

+12 V gets used by the control board, and it's easy to unplug that.

Yes, of course, and i have already tested with the control board unplugged, with no changes and even with another control board. Tested the control board on another inverter and it is working. The short is probably on the mainboard.

2 hours ago, Coulomb said:

Also by the relay drivers and parts of the gate driver

Replaced all the mosfets on the SMPS parts and no changes. One relay could be faulty and short to ground ?

2 hours ago, Coulomb said:

A non-contact thermometer might be helpful; all that D54 current must be going somewhere, and that somewhere should be getting hot unless it's a really dead short, like a solder dag

Yes, i am agree with that but not found any hot part execpted D54, so the research is quite difficult. I have another faulty board with the same issue but on this one D54 is not hot at all.

2 hours ago, Coulomb said:

I've injected a few volts with a 3 A current limit from a bench power supply to find these sorts of faults. Traces carrying amps of current have millivolt drops across them; traces carrying next to no current do not. So you can find out where the current stops flowing along the trace; that's where the short must be. It might sometimes be easier to trace the current coming back via the GND or -12 V traces; the GND pours tend to be easier to spot.

I always test my inverter with a 3.14 Amps bench power supply that can do up to 48V of output. I have spent a lot of time (and also nights) on theses boards but the thermal inspection with the infrared thermometer could be a good point of research. Maybe with a thermal camera the search could be more accurate ?

Did you know a site for buying inverters parts ?

Also, i have successfully upgraded another inverter that have a PWM solar board to a MPPT solar board. I have just to replace the 2 nuts of the battery connection to the appropriate place. CHG+ and CHG- are for the PWM board (directly connected to the battery terminals and BAT+ and BAT- for the MPPT board (directly connected to the DC/DC bus of the inverter). The others connections are the same. Just need to create 2 new holes on the inverter chassis for fiexing the MPPT board chockes. That's all 😉

Edited by fhocorp

2 hours ago, fhocorp said:

I always test my inverter with a 3.14 Amps bench power supply that can do up to 48V of output.

I mean to add "on the shorted power supply", with no other power source connected (now edited). Only for when I'm trying to track down a short circuit, (I always use a current limited supply if powering the battery terminals. ) So all the current is along the traces leading to the short circuit.

2 hours ago, fhocorp said:

Maybe with a thermal camera the search could be more accurate ?

Probably quicker, I guess. I've never used one.

2 hours ago, fhocorp said:

Did you know a site for buying inverters parts ?

There is an MPPSolar web site with a few spares, mainly whole boards. I think that EBay and/or Ali Express or the like could be good. Some of those Chinese suppliers seem to be able to get their hands on the same parts that Voltronics buys. The tricky part is to make sure you are getting exactly the right part. I've been fortunate and not had to buy anything specific to a model, like a transformer. Standard parts (MOSFETs, TVSs etc) I just look up the marking code, get a manufacturer's part number from that, and order from one of the international electronics retailers, usually Mouser, DigiKey, RS-Online, or Farnell/element  14.

2 hours ago, fhocorp said:

i have successfully upgraded another inverter that have a PWM solar board to a MPPT solar board. I have just to...

That's good to know, thanks. I thought it may well be the case, and it makes sense to design them that way, but never found out.

  • Author

@Coulomb Tested the board today with a non contact thermometer. The D54 get about 60*C in 2 seconds only. I was unable to find any component that get hot at this temperatures. I have one question about the TX7 : it is powered by the 12V line ? Either no any volts measured on the control board inputs. TX7 transformer could be shorted ? Here is a picture of mine TX7, do you think it is safe ?

IMG_20250403_011344.jpg

Edited by fhocorp
Add picture of TX7 transformer

On 2025/04/03 at 9:17 AM, fhocorp said:

I have one question about the TX7 : it is powered by the 12V line ?

No, it's powered from HFPW+, the same source that generates +12 V.

On 2025/04/03 at 9:17 AM, fhocorp said:

TX7 transformer could be shorted ? Here is a picture of mine TX7, do you think it is safe ?

If TX7 was shorted, then certainly that would cut the +12 V line right down, though probably not to literally 0.0 V, as there should be about 0.2 V drop across D40 (driving TX7). It might be worth checking D40 for a short circuit, but you'll have to lift one end as both ends have a transformer or inductor winding to GND. You may care to try powering up the main power supply with D40 removed, or one end lifted, IF you can prevent bus voltage somehow (e.g. remove the control board). That should confirm or rule out D40 and TX7 as culprits.

Edit: On 5 kVA models, HFPW+ is also used by the communications and paralleling boards (if the latter is present). I know less about the MAX comms boards, but they likely do the same. So it may also be worth powering up with the comms board disconnected (at least on the connector that contains HFPW, it might even be marked). Ditto for the Solar Charge Controller board(s).

Oh wait, a short on HFPW+ would probably not make D54 hot. I think you need to chase down the short on the +12 V line. First find out what it's shorted to (likely GND I think). Then inject a few volts limited to about 3 A on that +12 V line, and use the millivolt multimeter scale to find out where the current is going. At least, D54 will not be sizzling during this. If there is no short here (checking the -12 V rail as well), then I suppose that D54 might be high resistance, causing it to heat up. It might even be shorted, meaning that it will be in series with all the back diodes on the 12 V rail during the negative part of the HFPW cycle, which would heat it up without any one part getting hot (many of them sharing the load).

Edited by Coulomb

  • Author
17 hours ago, Coulomb said:

If there is no short here (checking the -12 V rail as well), then I suppose that D54 might be high resistance, causing it to heat up. It might even be shorted, meaning that it will be in series with all the back diodes on the 12 V rail during the negative part of the HFPW cycle, which would heat it up without any one part getting hot (many of them sharing the load).

I have replaced all the big diodes just near D54 (and also D54 itself). When i test motherboards, the board is removed from the casing and tested without any accessories (communication board or parrallel board) on an isolated testing plate with 3A 48V bench power supply. I presume that the high resistance of D54 could be a part of the problem. Very embarassing research...

Edited by fhocorp

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Hello. After further research, i should ask that TX9 and TX7 transformers are shorted or faulty. Since there are no any suppliers in europe that allow shipping to france (only found one that only ship in pakistan) theses parts, i will stopping all the work on it and keeping the board for parts only.

Thanks for all your help ☺️

  • 5 months later...
On 14/1/2025 at 6:25 ΜΜ, fhocorp said:

@Κουλόμβ   Εντάξει, ευχαριστώ για τις πληροφορίες

Για την υποδοχή SCC, μιλάτε για τους ακροδέκτες 2 ακίδων για την εκκίνηση του μετατροπέα όταν το ηλιακό σύστημα είναι εντάξει; (η ίδια υποδοχή 2 ακίδων ακριβώς κοντά στους ακροδέκτες 2 ακίδων για τον διακόπτη ενεργοποίησης). Αν ναι, έχω ήδη δοκιμάσει με ένα καλώδιο, οπότε το τράβηξα αυτό για την προσομοίωση της εντολής ενεργοποίησης του SCC (είμαι σίγουρος ότι μία από τις διόδους ελέγχου στην πλακέτα SCC γίνεται αγώγιμη όταν η πλακέτα SCC ανιχνεύει ισχύ από τα πάνελ και χρειάζεται να εκκινήσει τον μετατροπέα) και αυτό μου επιτρέπει να κάνω μερικές μετρήσεις. Μέσω του κουμπιού ενεργοποίησης του μετατροπέα 2 ακίδων, ο ήχος του SMPS λειτουργεί μόνο για περίπου 2 ή 3 δευτερόλεπτα το πολύ και δεν πρέπει να γίνονται μετρήσεις μετά (το U10 θα πρέπει να προσπαθεί να εκκινήσει μία φορά και όχι συνεχώς).

Είμαι σχεδόν σίγουρος ότι το U10 είναι ελαττωματικό και θα το αντικαταστήσω για ασφάλεια. Μέσω R212/213 έχω 8,7V στην έξοδο. Έλεγξα σήμερα στο ηλεκτρονικό μου κατάστημα για τις αντιστάσεις και είναι οι καλές που έχω αντικαταστήσει, οπότε δεν είναι το πρόβλημα των αντιστάσεων.

I have the same problem and I don't find why don't turn on you find what is the problem;;

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author
On 2025/10/18 at 7:24 AM, panosgreece said:

I have the same problem and I don't find why don't turn on you find what is the problem;;

Hi

Sorry no good news on this side, i have tried everything, even replacing the CMS capacitors near the L7812CV regulator and nothing work :(

The devices has gone for parts :(

Edited by fhocorp
correct bad typo

18 hours ago, fhocorp said:

Γεια

Δυστυχώς δεν έχω καλά νέα από αυτή την πλευρά, έχω δοκιμάσει τα πάντα, ακόμη και την αντικατάσταση των πυκνωτών CMS κοντά στον ρυθμιστή L7812CV και τίποτα δεν λειτουργεί :(

Η συσκευή έχει πάει για ανταλλακτικά :(

I've also spent endless hours changing this and that but still nothing. From next month I will have more time to deal with it. I have found service manuals and I have also found the circuit diagrams of the board if you are interested.

  • Author
2 hours ago, panosgreece said:

I've also spent endless hours changing this and that but still nothing. From next month I will have more time to deal with it. I have found service manuals and I have also found the circuit diagrams of the board if you are interested.

Ok good luck sir 👍

PS: Yes the circuit diagrams are interesting me 😉

Cheers

5 hours ago, fhocorp said:

Εντάξει καλή τύχη κύριε 👍

ΥΓ: Ναι, τα διαγράμματα κυκλωμάτων με ενδιαφέρουν 😉

Εβίβα

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/download/file.php?id=6815&sid=1351b7a95d2de80137dfaff729447d37

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