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Shadders last won the day on April 23

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  1. The two highlighted errors from the manual both point towards your battery being an issue, are you able to test it? You can also try a cold reset- remove grid, panel and then battery power, wait for the screen to go off and then restart the inverter in the opposite order. If it does turn out to be an internal component failure I cannot assist with pricing in your area(SA), sorry. Your installer should be able to help more.
  2. I use a lithium battery so the cut-off and bulk charge values are very close. The inverter "measures" SOC by using the terminal voltage so as soon as grid power drops/battery leaves float the SOC reading drops like a stone because it assumes a linear relationship between SOC and the voltage. This is not the case over the range programmed into the inverter. Looking at the data again I think it's the decimal points for the frequency. Nothing else makes much sense. I'm glad the information has been a help
  3. Looking at your expected loads I would guess you'd be looking at a maximum load of between 400-900VA, since you are not planning to run any motors you could get away with a modified sine wave inverter which are really cheap. If you are looking at future proofing the house against long outages I would suggest considering going towards a 3KVA which would be able to cover a fridge and freezer and maybe a small kettle if you don't have gas cooker option? (you would be close to the limit with a kettle so would not recommend that as a consideration). 5KVA would be no worries at all but obviously at a higher cost. Batteries definitely lithium as you say. Lead acid technology, knowing the power problems in Southern Africa, are a no go IMHO. There are some very good SA designed batteries available, I have most experience with Revov which are very attractive pricing for their second life batteries but they don't have a 24V system yet as a standard product (very soon I'm told). I've used Pylontech for 24V systems and been happy with them.
  4. What we typically like to do on installs, and Solar Assistant will facilitate this, is to discharge your battery in the early hours of the morning so that you have energy storage available and you will then be making better use of your solar system. You want to discharge enough that you will be able to recharge as much as you need for your loads on a bad pv power day (think summer with days of grey weather and little sun or short hours in winter) and you want your battery to be fully charged (or as much as you need for the evening/night) by the end of the sunlight to cover against any power cuts.
  5. Looking at your graph you have a full battery so the pv power is matching the load power because it does not need to use any more. If your battery was not fully charged you would see that the pv power would try be higher and over time you would see the bell curve you ask about.
  6. In this post I give some details on how I fixed Error 57.
  7. This sounds like your current sensors may need to be de-magnetised or replaced if it has happened and then recovered.
  8. I recently repaired a board that had this same error . The board was damaged by a leaking pipe that dripped water onto the inverter through the ceiling which then shorted out the DC bus. AC IGBTs, DC MOSFETs were blown and replaced. Error 57 continued and the problem turned out to be one of the transistors that drive the DC MOSFETs. It had short circuited and was pulling up the -12V power rail that the HTC sensor needs. So your problem might not be this exact transistor but check the power supply to the sensor.
  9. https://solar-assistant.io/ https://iccsoftware.co.za/ These are the websites for the software. They both use a raspberry pi to interface with the inverter. I would suggest using Solar Assistant if you want to just get information and basic SOC control easily. ICC allows for much more advanced set up with a single pi controlling multiple automation options but is more complicated to get going with unless you are familiar with things (you need to use VNC for remote access and possibly port forwarding).
  10. It certainly sounds like it is the battery to me. If the master module/battery was supplying a higher current it would imply that there is less resistance in it's current path and the overvoltage might be plausible but you are seeing the reverse which doesn't make sense. I assume if you switch master settings and module position, keeping everything else the same, the same module continues to have a problem?
  11. We've had similar problems with the watchpower app and don't use it for monitoring. Solar Assistant or ICC are much better monitoring options which can provide realtime data compared to the 5 minute interval of watchpower. Sorry I can't be of more help.
  12. Correction. utility loss is defined as an error and triggers an email as I discovered this morning. There was a bug in the older version of ICC that stopped the mail notifications from working but this has been fixed in a recent update.
  13. A comment on this issue as a whole is that the King model, even with the updates and correctly wired panels, has still can have problems in certain cases but the changes made will improve matters. If you search for dip and freeze problems there are several posts that explore this in detail.
  14. Unless it's a Pylontech or Weco and you have the correct communication cable you will need to select user define. Battery settings should appear in the settings menu after you select the user defined. We normally enter the settings manually as the app isn't great in our experience.
  15. Just to add that ICC does support email notifications but this is limited to errors and as far as I know there is no way to define utility loss as an error. ICC does have MQTT integration and you can install Node Red or other automation software alongside it unlike SA so you can use one pi to do everything if you like.
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