Shadders

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Good day Gents,
It has been a minute since an update: The idea in this instance was merely to get the inverter up and running. However there are a few minor complicating factors that can make this impractical. Components availability is the primary area of concern, because a number of the components employed, are not off the shelf. Having exhausted a number of avenues as well as myself in the process. I initiated contact with Luxpower. I waited and waited until I eventually received a response.
We have maintained a near daily contact, which ultimately resulted in the reception of two “DC Board Assemblies” and one LCD screen assembly. Circumstances are 1 on 1. However, I am of a strong belief that they will reasonably assist in any way possible, so long as the request(s) are reasonable.

Brand new board assys /w drivers: Both are several months apart. From mid 2025 to late 2025. How do I know? The date code is on the xfrs. There are at least 3 separate revisions. Based on part numbers

Brand new LCD assy

Board being replaced (missing the two GDT) “isolation transformers) those had a date code of 2316 or the 23rd year and 16th month. (The cable retainer was removed from the original board and installed on the second new board) It broke in transit and took but a minute to remove and reinstall.
This will be a very difficult week, and I am not 100%. In addition, I have not yet received the thermal grease priorly ordered, per manufacturer’s specifications. Next week I will provide a final update on a complete and fully functional hybrid Inverter, one that I have really grown to love and the little bits that sets it apart from other inverters, that I have not had the greatest of success with; longevity speaking. I can say this much: unlike most companies, Luxpower has owned up to its mistakes and has made a pledge to prevent future failures such as this. As a sceptic; I genuinely believe that they will. Having once worked in PCB manufacturing and later, IPC Compliance ISO 9001:2015 there are significant differences between the mainboards. Same parts different quality controls.
***Note*** I am not in any way affiliated with Luxpower or its subsidiaries; otherwise my inverter would have been repaired several months ago.

Good day guys, I haven't posted something for a while and really haven't had the time. A very interesting problem arose on my FreedomWon 10/8 & due to the sheer frustration of trying to get support I made a decision to get intrusive with the unit & I voided the warranty. More on the warranty a little later and in general I hope that this thread opens up a very worthwhile conversation on warranties and what are they really worth. Even more interesting is the South Africa Battery assemblers as I call them. Let's face it, the raw Lithium is processed in China and made into prismatic cells and then shipped away to our shores as either an assembled battery unit or finds itself on the assembly line here in SA via FreedomWon factory or other well known SA battery manufacturers. The Local guys here then have a factory to a build those prismatic cells into a production unit & pair it with a BMS and then sell this finished product.
Now here is starts to get interesting: How long will these businesses stay relevant because it's a very tough market. The Chinese have the technology to process lithium, they also have the R & D to produce BMS controllers and let's face it their manufacturing costs are a fraction of what can be done here in SA. We now start to see Lithium batteries starting to reach Lead Acid pricing for the first time and sales on the market in general have dried up.
I have evaluated and deployed locally built as well as Chinese LV & HV batteries is mass. I myself used to build batteries. I'm sorry to say the undercut and the affordability of buying a production Chinese imported battery makes this a no brainer.
I hope there are more people out there that can add more perspective to this starting thread. Will add more details on the problem I had, the support that was offered and the steps I took to take matters into my own hands to salvage my battery and get it healthy again.

Feedback here, I have removed the RS232 card and the inverter has been working as should ever since.
I use Home Assistant to monitor the inverter, so the WiFi card is not needed. Thank you for the suggestion.

I believe it is related.
I have seen this exact problem and it was caused by the card the Wifi dongle plugs into. You can test this by unplugging the cable that feeds this internal card. Does the inverter start normally?
I have repaired two of these cards. One had a shorted capacitor and the other a faulty MAX232. Simple fixes if you know someone cable of working on SMD components.

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I changed the setting in the SmartShunt to match the battery total amps. I will monitor them and see if that alleviates the 'drift' between the SOC on the BMS and the SmartShunt.

Thank you for the suggestion, will certainly try and see if I unplug the cable that goes to the RS232 card.

Having sorted out the mess that is the 43.xx firmware number range, I came across three newer (to me) 43.xx firmwares. The latest of these is 43.29, two days later than 43.28. Perhaps they noticed a whoopsie with the charging and updated the firmware quickly as a result.
This is main (U1) factory firmware version 43.29 for the Axpert VM II Premium 3kW and 2.5kW '28062 non-Twin. Do not use with any other model or version.
Use at your own risk. The hex file is dated 16/1/2025.
Firmware upload instructions for models with a removable display.
This firmware processes the QDOP command, so with suitably recent display firmware, it should support SoC% for settings 12,13, and 29 when connected to a suitable battery's BMS.
The rar file password is "flash" without the quotes.
VMII_Premium_2K5_3K_MAIN_Reflash_Ver43.29 pw flash.rar

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·         Master inverter parallel settings
·         Three-phase parallel mode configuration
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S6-EH1P(3-8)K-L Parallel setup v1.0-2025.pdf

Quick update on this. I managed to get comms going between the inverter and battery. I can now see the charging current changing dynamically depending on state of charge (lower SoC higher current and vice versa). Charging voltages were also changed when I switched over to PYL.
Error with the solar generation stopping completely has gone away. Happy.
Thanks for the support!

This is the freeze bug that the axperts are known to have. The kings seem to be particularly problematic. My company has had the factory send us adjusted firmware for the SCC but we were never able to eliminate the issue at some sites and had to change inverter models.
As far as we could tell the problem is triggered by the inverter seeing the battery voltage rise quickly over the bulk charge voltage so the solar power is dropped to 0V and the MPPT tries to reset and match solar power with load. If this happens too often it shuts down in an 'error mode' and only resets when the panels are turned off i.e. the MPPT voltage drops to 0. The sharp voltage "knee" of lithium cells when cells are full plays a large part. Often the BMS has gone into a protection mode because of a high cell which means the inverter suddenly has to dump energy. Looking at your data I would guess you have cell balance issues. The triggers seem to most often be:
1) Cell imbalance triggering BMS to go into alarm and disconnect from inverter. Terminal voltage shoots up as a result.
2) A load switching off when the battery is close to the bulk voltage. The SCC doesn't ramp down in time and the voltage rises quickly/BMS goes into alarm
3) A sudden shift in MPPT power caused by a cloud leaving the sunlight and ramp down doesn't happen fast enough.
Are you using communications between the Synapse battery and the inverter? The Synapse's are rebranded pylontechs and coms should be possible. The BMS should ramp down charge current when almost full and prevent this happening.

Methods that may assist:
1) Reduce battery charge current so the battery has longer time to balance
2) Reduce bulk charge voltage down 0.2V-0.5V so the battery doesn't sit right at the top end of cell voltages, it should still have +/- 95% stored charge

20A should be okay but 30A isn't terrible. it would be better if you could get the communication between the battery and inverter done so that the BMS can dynamically vary the current. Typically it will drop the requested charge current down to 1 or 2A when the battery is almost full
Absorption is bulk charge yes. I'd recomment you try float to be 52.7-52.5V and absorption 53.0-52.8V....https://powerforum.co.za/topic/4925-best-charge-settings-for-pylontech/#findComment-197229 might be helpful
These are pretty good. Pylontech max should be 3.54V per cell and looking at your values you are close to this, it's probably only 1 cell right as you first reach 100% that is going over the alarm threshold. Dropping the absorption should help.

The axperts can throw odd errors if the SPS capacitors, in particluar the ones on the -12V rail have failed. It's worth replacing all the SPS capacitors if you can.
I have seen the output IGBTs fail when trying to invert under the high voltage however they test fine in circuit and using a multimeter. Maybe there is a similar situation here and they are dragging the battery into protection mode and triggering F03 and the battery protection resets when you measure the battery? Here's a link showing this situation https://powerforum.co.za/topic/14666-repair-of-axpert-inverters-a-journey-started/page/27/#findComment-214451

Quick update. After reducing the charge voltages the error hasn't re-occurred. Happy days.
Next step is to get comms going between the inverter and battery. I want to do this in any case as it seems to be the best long term solution.
There are still random instances where PV generation drops to zero (even though it is sunny), but so far generation has always resumed again shortly after. I haven't been able to identify a pattern. Sometimes this happens with load change, but other times not (example below). It would be great to get this resolved, but it doesn't really seem to be a significant problem as generation recovers shortly thereafter. Unless I'm missing something?





Thanks for all the help!

I recently repaired a board that had this same error . The board was damaged by a leaking pipe that dripped water onto the inverter through the ceiling which then shorted out the DC bus. AC IGBTs, DC MOSFETs were blown and replaced. Error 57 continued and the problem turned out to be one of the transistors that drive the DC  MOSFETs. It had short circuited and was pulling up the -12V power rail that the HTC sensor needs. So your problem might not be this exact transistor but check the power supply to the sensor.

Sorry I had a meeting and did not get a chance to complete my post, following on from earlier:
- Personally I would drop SOC earlier in the morning so there is battery capacity for the panels to work closer to their maximum capacity rather than just matching load. You will save more electricity and make better use of your investment. It's nearly impossible in most applications to reach the warranty number of cycles so use the batteries more i.e. in the early morning hours before the sun comes up. Typically I go as low as 40% and as high as 60%
- time slot 1, 2 (and maybe 3) I would untick grid charge. If you hit the stated % it will hold at that value but not charge from grid. You only really need to charge to 100% in the evening to give backup for the evening

@BritishRacingGreen yes I do repair units but methinks Harare, Zimbabwe might be a bridge too far for you 😁

I have found that water ingress isn't too bad unless it has burnt tracks. I find the biggest issue for me is the DC caps, they are not easy to come by and my parts supplier can't source them. I've had to pull from several old machines to get good enough ones.

If the machines are less than 8 months old and weren't running at high power conditions you will most likely get away with the repair not having to replace the caps. Message me if you need any help and I'll try my best.

You don't want to try only replace the faulty ones, it's asking for trouble. I unscrew the IGBTs from the heat sink using a Z screwdriver and then desolder them. Removing the heatsink is a lot of effort. You might have to remove a capacitor or two to get good access but I normally manage without having to do so. Once the faulty componenst are off check the DC mosfets and all driver circuits again. To be honest if the inverter is more than a year old I don't recommend repair unless you replace the DC capacitors as well because I've had several repaired inverters fail again soon after repair. They passed full load tests so I can only think that capacitor aging is not buffering the surges well enough.
 

@Shadders this is not the soft start circuit. Values are correct. Here in attachements the soud of TX9 after powering on the circuit via the power button. Also D54 get very hot just in few seconds after powering on via the power button.
31 mars à 00.18​.aac

Thank you @Coulomb and @Shadders.
Can confirm that this works on my Kodak 7.2 kW by following Shadders PDF and using the communication tool link in the same doc. 

I shared the SOP I wrote up using the information linked above
 

Hey, neat! I have linked your file at the top of the calibration post. Thanks for doing that; it was sorely in need of a clean up.

Check the resistors on the gate of those IGBTs. Do you have an oscilliscope to check the driver circuits?

The bus softstart circuit might also be damaged, a quick check would be if the MOSFET driving the primary of TX2 is short circuit.

I use a high voltage IGBT/transistor/LED tester on the IGBTs from the DC-DC circuit to the H-bridge. I have had some pass the basic multimeter test but their break down voltage is out of specification when tested. It's saved expensive failures of replaced parts. See below of failure vs pass. (it's also very handy for checking zener diodes). It was USD20 odd from Aliexpress. EEVblog forum has some technical discussion on it here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/completely-non-sketchy-mini-high-voltage-transistor-tester-(emeco)/

Check the resistors on the gate of those IGBTs. Do you have an oscilliscope to check the driver circuits?

The bus softstart circuit might also be damaged, a quick check would be if the MOSFET driving the primary of TX2 is short circuit.

I use a high voltage IGBT/transistor/LED tester on the IGBTs from the DC-DC circuit to the H-bridge. I have had some pass the basic multimeter test but their break down voltage is out of specification when tested. It's saved expensive failures of replaced parts. See below of failure vs pass. (it's also very handy for checking zener diodes). It was USD20 odd from Aliexpress. EEVblog forum has some technical discussion on it here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/completely-non-sketchy-mini-high-voltage-transistor-tester-(emeco)/