Good day all.

I installed a 800w turbine. It connects to 100ah probe lifepo4

I have the controller that comes with the turbine. Will attach pic. When I use this controller the turbine runs nicely but it gives no charge.

I have another mars rock 0 - 1500w mppt controller. When I use this controller it seems to only brake the turbine. It barely moves.

I would prefer to use the mars rock controller but I think the setup might be wrong, and this is what I am needing assistance with please.

Below are the pics of controllers, wiring, battery spec and suggested settings

Below are the settings I am looking for please.

Over discharge protection voltage

Over discharge recovery voltage

Over charge protection voltage

Edited April 18Apr 18 by wareddel

Hello did you get the turbine and the controller from the same manufacturer?

Typically the controller needs to be factory set to match the input voltage range of the turbine if not then you may have a problem.

Another factor may be the rated wind speed of the wind turbine if it is rated at 12 meter per second you need a wind in excess of 40 KPH for the turbine to generate its rated capacity and it may be that the wind speed you have is just to low for the turbine to generate any meaningful power.

What is the blade Diameter of the turbine?

What is the physical weight of the turbine?

Post pictures of the product.

Hi there.

The blades were 900mm long, put together 1.4m odd this is when 2 blades on ground and 1 is upward, measured from ground to top of upward blade.

Turbine itself is 1.2m long.

I am not sure of weight I think it was 28kg.

The controller is an after market controller that is supposed to operate between 0 to 1500w.

Black controller was controller that came with turbine, never kicks in to charge mode.

3 wires were soldered to lead that comes to controller, I doubt there is any kind of connection issue.

Orange controller seems to break the turbine all the time, if I replace with standard one it just spins freely.

Edited April 22Apr 22 by WA Reddek
More info

Hello

I am going to just give you the facts on the turbine you have there based on verifiable real world data.

Some facts about wind power.

Blade diameter equals potential power output at a certain wind speed amount of blades will only increase torque but not KW output. In your case 1.4 meter 3 bladed design the potential power output at low to medium wind speeds is very low.

Blade rigidity is very important so that they don't deform under load and change the blade characteristics. In your case nylon blades typical for cheap chinese turbines I assume they have a lot of flex.

Being a high RPM Generator the tip speed of that turbine at its maximum capacity will be close to 270 KPH Nylon has very little stiffness and the blades would deform out of shape long before the potential capacity of the generator will be achieved thats why your high quality small high speed turbines all have carbon fibre or kevlar reinforced blades to prevent deformation at high rotational speeds.

Generator configuration is important low RPM generators are a lot heavier and require a lot more material (Copper Iron and Magnets) in the design to produce power at low RPM and require a lot more torque to produce decent power at low RPM your generator is very small and very light and likely a high RPM generator requiring more than a 1000 RPM to produce close to claimed output and is more likely something like a 50 watt to 100 Watt generator.

High RPM Generators have a very narrow power band meaning they will only start producing useable power very close to their nominal RPM.

Location and objects that can cause turbulence and ground turbulence will also affect the turbines ability to produce power.

Location being the area's average wind speed you can use this tool to see what the radar data says about average wind speed at your location.

Objects in the way like high buildings trees and structures that can cause turbulence. So the turbine has to be installed higher than anything around it to avoid turbulence so not on your roof or next to a house.

Turbulence will cause a wind turbine not to function like it is supposed to they require directional non turbulent wind to produce their rated power at specified wind speeds.

The Cp is the efficiency of a wind turbine as an example a CP of 0.40 means 40% Efficiency very expensive high quality small turbines have Cp ratings of 0.35 to 0.45 the most efficient commercial small turbine in the market has a Cp of 0.45 and that is the Bergey Excel 10 (10 kW) the best recorded Cp for a small turbine achieved was a scientific prototype with carbon fibre blades in a wind tunnel was Cp of 0.48 and this in a controlled environment.

Just for context to work out how fast in KPH from m/s just multiply m/s 1 x 3,6 =3.6 KPH so 12 m/s = 43,2 KPH

Our HYE 1 KW turbine has a blade Diameter of 2 Meters with 5 blades for extra torque and it needs 12 m/s to produce 1 KW at 750 RPM and it has 5 Glass fiber, Strengthen Nylon blades for additional torque output maximum wind speed for this turbine is 16.6 m/s with a max output of 1200 Watt the bearings in the machine is SKF bearings to improve efficiency and reliability.

The Cp of this HYE turbine is rated at 0.36

The assumed claimed 800 W output at 12–15 m/s for a 1.4 m, 28 kg, 3-blade Chinese wind turbine is unrealistic, as the calculated approximate CP of 0.49 is not feasible for a cheap, lightweight design.

Based on your real-world experience (zero power due to controller issues and low efficiency) and other user reviews with similar chinese products the realistic performance of this turbine is as follows.

Power Output:

Theoretical Cp=0.20

Theoretical outputs of 326 W at 12 m/s, and 637 W at 15 m/s.

Real-World: 50–100 W at 12–15 m/s, likely ~80 W due to high losses, poor blade design (nylon blades) High RPM Generator

Annual Energy Production:

Real-World (80 W, typical site, 10% CF): ~70 kWh/year.

Real-World (80 W, windier site, 15% CF): ~105 kWh/year.

Theoretical (326 W, 10–15% CF): ~286–428 kWh/year (optimistic, unlikely given the results).

The above data I calculated based on the information I could find on the turbine you have.

I have also tried to find its actual data sheets and information however this seems to be unavailable raises some questions to the quality of the product most quality turbines have verifiable data sheets and information available.

I assume the cost of the turbine was very low likely below R10 000.00 that would be in line to what the cheap chinese turbines cost.

I also assume you have it installed against your wall or on the roof of the house that will affect the efficiency a lot due to turbulence.

The black controller is likely rated correctly for the wind turbine and the likely reason why the power output is never reached is because the wind is not blowing at 12 m/s = 43.2 KPH without turbulence and because it is a high RPM generator the wind speed needed for the generator to start producing is likely above 6 to 7 m/s and the potential that it may need wind speeds of 15 m/s to generate any useful power however it would be unlikely to survive continuous wind speeds that are so high.

The reason why the 0 to 1500 watt controller is not working is because it is likely setup for a real 800 watt wind turbine and your turbine is likely a 50 to 100 watt turbine meaning the moment the controller tries to convert power from the generator it demands too much and causes the turbine to stall because the demand far exceeds the maximum output of the turbine.

Tests you can do to prove or disprove my statements is to put the turbine generator on a bench and drive the drive shaft with a electric motor that has a VFD function so you can rev the motor up slowly make sure the black controller is connected to the generator and the battery then you can measure the output with a clamp on meter you would also have to measure the voltage this way you can see how much power the generator actually makes and at what RPM the controller will have a cut off voltage and RPM range do it would be important to rev the generator up slowly with the VFD of the electric motor doing it in stages until you reach the cutoff limit of the black controller.

Do not use the 0 to 1500 watt controller you may risk damaging the generator windings due to over current.

I hope this helps let me know if you need more information.

11 minutes ago, Powerforum Store said:

Hello

I am going to just give you the facts on the turbine you have there based on verifiable real world data.

Some facts about wind power.

Blade diameter equals potential power output at a certain wind speed amount of blades will only increase torque but not KW output. In your case 1.4 meter 3 bladed design the potential power output at low to medium wind speeds is very low.

Blade rigidity is very important so that they don't deform under load and change the blade characteristics. In your case nylon blades typical for cheap chinese turbines I assume they have a lot of flex.

Being a high RPM Generator the tip speed of that turbine at its maximum capacity will be close to 270 KPH Nylon has very little stiffness and the blades would deform out of shape long before the potential capacity of the generator will be achieved thats why your high quality small high speed turbines all have carbon fibre or kevlar reinforced blades to prevent deformation at high rotational speeds.

Generator configuration is important low RPM generators are a lot heavier and require a lot more material (Copper Iron and Magnets) in the design to produce power at low RPM and require a lot more torque to produce decent power at low RPM your generator is very small and very light and likely a high RPM generator requiring more than a 1000 RPM to produce close to claimed output and is more likely something like a 50 watt to 100 Watt generator.

High RPM Generators have a very narrow power band meaning they will only start producing useable power very close to their nominal RPM.

Location and objects that can cause turbulence and ground turbulence will also affect the turbines ability to produce power.

Location being the area's average wind speed you can use this tool to see what the radar data says about average wind speed at your location.

Objects in the way like high buildings trees and structures that can cause turbulence. So the turbine has to be installed higher than anything around it to avoid turbulence so not on your roof or next to a house.

Turbulence will cause a wind turbine not to function like it is supposed to they require directional non turbulent wind to produce their rated power at specified wind speeds.

The Cp is the efficiency of a wind turbine as an example a CP of 0.40 means 40% Efficiency very expensive high quality small turbines have Cp ratings of 0.35 to 0.45 the most efficient commercial small turbine in the market has a Cp of 0.45 and that is the Bergey Excel 10 (10 kW) the best recorded Cp for a small turbine achieved was a scientific prototype with carbon fibre blades in a wind tunnel was Cp of 0.48 and this in a controlled environment.

Just for context to work out how fast in KPH from m/s just multiply m/s 1 x 3,6 =3.6 KPH so 12 m/s = 43,2 KPH

Our HYE 1 KW turbine has a blade Diameter of 2 Meters with 5 blades for extra torque and it needs 12 m/s to produce 1 KW at 750 RPM and it has 5 Glass fiber, Strengthen Nylon blades for additional torque output maximum wind speed for this turbine is 16.6 m/s with a max output of 1200 Watt the bearings in the machine is SKF bearings to improve efficiency and reliability.

The Cp of this HYE turbine is rated at 0.36

The assumed claimed 800 W output at 12–15 m/s for a 1.4 m, 28 kg, 3-blade Chinese wind turbine is unrealistic, as the calculated approximate CP of 0.49 is not feasible for a cheap, lightweight design.

Based on your real-world experience (zero power due to controller issues and low efficiency) and other user reviews with similar chinese products the realistic performance of this turbine is as follows.

Power Output:

Theoretical Cp=0.20

Theoretical outputs of 326 W at 12 m/s, and 637 W at 15 m/s.

Real-World: 50–100 W at 12–15 m/s, likely ~80 W due to high losses, poor blade design (nylon blades) High RPM Generator

Annual Energy Production:

Real-World (80 W, typical site, 10% CF): ~70 kWh/year.

Real-World (80 W, windier site, 15% CF): ~105 kWh/year.

Theoretical (326 W, 10–15% CF): ~286–428 kWh/year (optimistic, unlikely given the results).

The above data I calculated based on the information I could find on the turbine you have.

I have also tried to find its actual data sheets and information however this seems to be unavailable raises some questions to the quality of the product most quality turbines have verifiable data sheets and information available.

I assume the cost of the turbine was very low likely below R10 000.00 that would be in line to what the cheap chinese turbines cost.

I also assume you have it installed against your wall or on the roof of the house that will affect the efficiency a lot due to turbulence.

The black controller is likely rated correctly for the wind turbine and the likely reason why the power output is never reached is because the wind is not blowing at 12 m/s = 43.2 KPH without turbulence and because it is a high RPM generator the wind speed needed for the generator to start producing is likely above 6 to 7 m/s and the potential that it may need wind speeds of 15 m/s to generate any useful power however it would be unlikely to survive continuous wind speeds that are so high.

The reason why the 0 to 1500 watt controller is not working is because it is likely setup for a real 800 watt wind turbine and your turbine is likely a 50 to 100 watt turbine meaning the moment the controller tries to convert power from the generator it demands too much and causes the turbine to stall because the demand far exceeds the maximum output of the turbine.

Tests you can do to prove or disprove my statements is to put the turbine generator on a bench and drive the drive shaft with a electric motor that has a VFD function so you can rev the motor up slowly make sure the black controller is connected to the generator and the battery then you can measure the output with a clamp on meter you would also have to measure the voltage this way you can see how much power the generator actually makes and at what RPM the controller will have a cut off voltage and RPM range do it would be important to rev the generator up slowly with the VFD of the electric motor doing it in stages until you reach the cutoff limit of the black controller.

Do not use the 0 to 1500 watt controller you may risk damaging the generator windings due to over current.

I hope this helps let me know if you need more information.

Omg. I thought upgrading the cheapo to 800w SA bought 800 w was a good idea.

It seems I am just a sucker.

Next question. How do I get any use out of this turbine? I have it 2.5m above roof, I can move it anywhere on property not much in way of wind.

All I really wanted to do is get charge at night, where I live, seems wind starts here, we have maybe 2 weeks of no wind in a year, I feel so deflated.

The higher you put the turbine the more likely it will be to get a more directional and stronger wind.

The only controller you can use is the one provided with the turbine.

I recommend you test the machine on a test bed to see how fast it needs to spin to start generating power however don't expect very much power.

What I could also recommend is to return the useless wind turbine to the Company you bought it from under the CPA they sold you a product that claims false performance.

Rather invest in a good quality turbine that will produce power and will work with your system.

Supplier admitted he had 2 that seemed to be faulty, refunded me, thank you.

great news !