7 hours ago, MockTurtle said:

i would really just suggest just to hire an expert elec-chicken/sparkie if in doubt!

but to answer your question:

(1) use a multimeter... you really need a multimeter/tester to test and see which wires are which.

Yes that is the plan and was a stupid question on my part. When I started looking at this before I read about switching neutral and then from that understood that there could be a voltage on the N as well. So typically between L and N I should read +-230V and  and between N and Gnd very little if any. 

(2) black wires: get a new piece of wire and fix to one end of that terminal block to the "N in" on the sonoff.
red wires: one of those is the Live wire (you really need a tester to find out which one it is). that goes to the "L in" on the sonoff.  the rest of the red wires lead to the fixtures, so they go on the respective "Out" terminals on the sonoff.

Fairly sure the 2 twisted red that comes into the switch at the bottom of the switches is the L, but will test this as well. Will then just add a terminal block to these two and into the Lin on Sonoff. 

3) tie them together and make sure they don't make contact with the red/black. unfortunately no ground connection on the sonoff 

Thanks for the replies. 

 

Edited May 29, 20206 yr by Tsa

Another question, all those neutrals (4) should typically all be tied together, so technically I can just take one to the sonoff and then try and hide the rest somewhere in the switch cavity?

Its a mission to try and maneuver the sonoff into that cavity with the bulky terminal block at the back of it. Also a very tight squeeze when fastning the screws. So would rather get a smaller terminal block (current one is marked for 16mm) and then just run one of the neutrals to the sonoff. 

Thoughts? 

Any ideas on filling the gaps left between the old switch plate and the new "smaller" sonnof cover?

On 2020/05/29 at 6:24 PM, Tsa said:

Another question, all those neutrals (4) should typically all be tied together, so technically I can just take one to the sonoff and then try and hide the rest somewhere in the switch cavity?

Answered my own stupid question, single circuit so all those neutrals are tied together, so they need to stay that way. Went for a bit smaller terminal block and put 2 into each side and a 3rd on one side going to the sonoff. Was able to get the sonoff "fairly" flush inside the cavity. 

 

On 2020/03/29 at 10:59 AM, francois jordaan said:

Hi Guys

I have been making use of Sonoff switches for the best part of 5 years now and thought I would share my use 

I have a dedicated circuit running from my UPS powering 1 dedicated LED down-lighter in every room for when Eskom is not available,  to control theses I have installed 2 'utility boxes' in the ceiling with a sonoff 4chpro in each. as these is always on (UPS power) I only ever control them via iwfi.

In the rest of the house I have wired basic's directly into the power line (installed in a 2x4 power box in the ceiling) The sonoff power on state is set to ON, in normal use the switches stay on the on position and is actuated via the Google home device in most rooms, setup this way you can override th sonoff by simply switching the gang switch off and on again, this will switch the Sonoff to the ON position.

For my pool pump I am using a TH16 with thermal probe, the Th16 is driving a solenoid that in turn is switching the pump power, this Unit can show either humidity (think water tank full/empty) or sense temperature via a sealed  sensor, I have installed my sensor on the out line toward the pool to monitor pool temperature, this switch can also set to automatically actuate on temperature (handy if you have  a heat pump heating your pool, not so much for solar as you cant set time in conjunction with temperature)

I have also given RF unit a go but not all that successful since they launched G1 models for garage and gate motors (you can also use the PIR to switch on/off sonoff units with movement but the PIR sensitivity is way to sensitive

hope this is useful to someone

Francois

Hi Francois, installed a TH16 for the pool after reading your post. But a little confused as to how you mounted or placed your temp sensor, would you mind sharing a pic?

Thanks

Hi I have installed Sonoff m5-120 smart light switches but it is not working with the already inserted loadshedding EMS backup globes.

The EMS globes worked perfectly with the normal light switch.