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Hi All

I want to start utilizing sonoff switches and controlling these via the App, with the idea of eventually expanding this into one of the home automation software options which can talk to the inverter.

I want to start off with security outside lights and also the pool pump. 

1) The idea is to have the security light switches always on (physically) and then control current via the sonoff wifi smart switch. Is this suggested? Idea being to use the current light switches as is, just wire the sonoff into the relevant circuit for the outside light on a specific switch. In most cases these are 2 gang switches with one being for an internal light and the other switch on the panel being the outside light. I am considering the smart wifi switch or the mini before having to go the route of replacing the whole switch panel with the sonoff touch light switch. Timer to enable when lights go on and off during the night. 

2) Pool pump has its own sub db with a timer. Idea also here is to put in a sonoff device that would either replace the timer, where the sonoff app enables the timer and also give me the option of remotely switching off the pump. (batteries too low and low PV). Again hopefully automating this in a home automation tool at a later stage. 

Please let me know what you guys would suggest with the 2 ideas above and anything specific to look out for. 


TIA

@Tsa  I use Sonoff  RF switches with the Sonoff remote .

For the lights the Sonoff is installed inline with the curcuitbreaker in the db. The lights we want on is switched on at the switch . 

The pool Sonoff is also in the db . The Sonoff timer is set for times when needed .

Also a panic alarm connected with Sonoff  remote

The RF is quick and always available when in range . Our WiFi sometimes needs to reconnect  to Sonoff  but is also handy .

  • Author
3 hours ago, Chris Louw said:

For the lights the Sonoff is installed inline with the curcuitbreaker in the db. The lights we want on is switched on at the switch .

Thanks for the feedback @Chris Louw. I guess the above will work if you have all the lights you want to switch on and off at the same time on the same CB. In my case I only need 3 outside lights on, not all of the lights on the same CB. That is why I am looking at wiring the sonoff smart switch into the specific light connection for the lights I have one, ideal place being behind the current light switch if there is space. My question still is if this is possible and a good option. Hopefully one of the other guys that have done this can comment. 

Noted on RF and Wifi. Thanks

Which sonoff are you running on the pool pump? 

Thanks

 

33 minutes ago, calypso said:

You also then lose the physical control of the switch

You can wire the physical switch to one of the inputs of the Sonoff, and then configure the Sonoff to toggle its output whenever the physical switch is toggled. At least, you can if you flash Tasmota onto it.

But I still agree in broad terms. I too prefer the integrated switches, because attempting to hide the Sonoff inside the light switch is just about impossible (on youtube I've seen people remove the outer case and wrap it in tape or large heatshrink tubes to make it fit), and placing it next to it likely violates wiring code and looks ugly.

The T1 switches are rather expensive though compared to the low end Sonoff relays (R120 a piece now, likely even less).

56 minutes ago, Tsa said:

Thanks for the feedback @Chris Louw

Which sonoff are you running on the pool pump? 

Thanks

 

For the pool I also use Sonoff RF . Remote is handy in my pocket to switch for what ever reason . Clouds , backwash ect . I can see if it is cloudy on the CCTV then switch the pump off using Wi-Fi if not at home . 

 

Am running a bunch of T0 light switches all across my house - they work great. And if you order them from Banggood, they are only around $13 or so

I really like the Sonoff/Ewelink stuff, so I have a bunch around the house:

  • Outside lights on Sonoff Mini (wired into that light switch)
  • Garage door on Eachen garage door opener
  • Pool pump on Sonoff Basic (only one flashed with Tasmota; my pump only has around 750W, so the Basic is sufficient)
  • Heat pump on Sonoff POW
  • Sonoff LED strip
  • Some other random stuff on Sonoff Basics

Unfortunately not all Sonoff products work with IFTTT, but with the T0 and the Basics you can do really neat stuff (e.g. having your lights in the house come on when you get close to home in the eve)

The pool pump is controlled via APM based on the ICC data, so switches on/off by itself (and gives option to manually override via VNC)

  • Author

Thanks for all the informative replies guys. 

I see the different T1 to T3 options with and without RF, white and black, etc. . Then also the different models EU/UK/US. What would we run in SA? 

1 hour ago, Tsa said:

Thanks for all the informative replies guys. 

I see the different T1 to T3 options with and without RF, white and black, etc. . Then also the different models EU/UK/US. What would we run in SA? 

Don't know about EU/UK/US  tipes .  All the Sonoff switches I bought local and import have a voltage input range 90 - 100 v  to 240 - 250 v AC and RF433 MHz .

 

Quote

Then also the different models EU/UK/US. What would we run in SA? 

US model fits for SA 

Quote

I myself am very much looking for sonoff goodies in SA. All sold out ?

I have bought all my Sonoffs from Banggood. With the shipping method 'South Africa Direct Mail (Tax Free)' the shipment has always arrived at my doorstep within 2 weeks (granted my last order was before Corona). And shipping costs were usually even cheaper than domestic shipping from a local supplier in SA 😶

Yes, for me the Sonoffs simply screwed into the box that was behind the old switch. The pic above is a 1-gang, but 1/2/3-gang are all the same size

Just be aware that the Sonoffs require a neutral wire to work, which in SA is not always installed. In my house, my upstairs switches already had a neutral wire in the wall box, but for my downstairs switches I had to pull a new neutral wire through to get the Sonoffs to work. So I would recommend checking what your situation looks like 😉

Here pics of old and new 2-gang

IMG-2801.jpg

IMG-2802.jpg

  • Author

Guessing I'm in luck and that all those black wires tied together are the neutrals just waiting for a Smart Switch :) 

Edit: I see you posted about this as I was typing. 

image.png.299c38b1bee271b8604479dd0e12bb5a.png

 

Now to look for local Sonoff supplier with stock. Communica seems to be out of stock. Buffalo (Banggood Direct Mail courier) indicate that with Covid19 and many airlines cancelling routes, there will be delays.

 

57 minutes ago, Tsa said:

Guessing I'm in luck and that all those black wires tied together are the neutrals just waiting for a Smart Switch :) 

Edit: I see you posted about this as I was typing. 

image.png.299c38b1bee271b8604479dd0e12bb5a.png

 

Now to look for local Sonoff supplier with stock. Communica seems to be out of stock. Buffalo (Banggood Direct Mail courier) indicate that with Covid19 and many airlines cancelling routes, there will be delays.

 

PiShop  Vereniging  do have stock of some Sonoff  switches . Check their web site , availability can be checked

Hi Guys

I have been making use of Sonoff switches for the best part of 5 years now and thought I would share my use 

I have a dedicated circuit running from my UPS powering 1 dedicated LED down-lighter in every room for when Eskom is not available,  to control theses I have installed 2 'utility boxes' in the ceiling with a sonoff 4chpro in each. as these is always on (UPS power) I only ever control them via iwfi.

In the rest of the house I have wired basic's directly into the power line (installed in a 2x4 power box in the ceiling) The sonoff power on state is set to ON, in normal use the switches stay on the on position and is actuated via the Google home device in most rooms, setup this way you can override th sonoff by simply switching the gang switch off and on again, this will switch the Sonoff to the ON position.

For my pool pump I am using a TH16 with thermal probe, the Th16 is driving a solenoid that in turn is switching the pump power, this Unit can show either humidity (think water tank full/empty) or sense temperature via a sealed  sensor, I have installed my sensor on the out line toward the pool to monitor pool temperature, this switch can also set to automatically actuate on temperature (handy if you have  a heat pump heating your pool, not so much for solar as you cant set time in conjunction with temperature)

I have also given RF unit a go but not all that successful since they launched G1 models for garage and gate motors (you can also use the PIR to switch on/off sonoff units with movement but the PIR sensitivity is way to sensitive

hope this is useful to someone

Francois

4chpro.jpg

th16.jpg

home screen.jpg

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

image.png.299c38b1bee271b8604479dd0e12bb5a.png

With 4 "neutral" black wires coming in there.

1)Is there any way to test if they are indeed neutral? 

2) How would one wire this to a Sonoff Touch?  From what I can see the 2 red wires twisted together at the bottom that go straight through the switch,  would be L(in),  the black (Nin) and then the 2 top red wires would go to the loads (L1 and L2)?   Now with the fact that there are 4xBlack and 2x Live, do you put all 4xBlack to Nin on the Sonoff and all 2xLive to Lin or only one of each? (what happens to the rest?)

3) What should you do with the ground? 

  

4 hours ago, Tsa said:

image.png.299c38b1bee271b8604479dd0e12bb5a.png

With 4 "neutral" black wires coming in there.

1)Is there any way to test if they are indeed neutral? 

2) How would one wire this to a Sonoff Touch?  From what I can see the 2 red wires twisted together at the bottom that go straight through the switch,  would be L(in),  the black (Nin) and then the 2 top red wires would go to the loads (L1 and L2)?   Now with the fact that there are 4xBlack and 2x Live, do you put all 4xBlack to Nin on the Sonoff and all 2xLive to Lin or only one of each? (what happens to the rest?)

3) What should you do with the ground? 

i would really just suggest just to hire an expert elec-chicken/sparkie if in doubt!

but to answer your question:

(1) use a multimeter... you really need a multimeter/tester to test and see which wires are which.

(2) black wires: get a new piece of wire and fix to one end of that terminal block to the "N in" on the sonoff.
red wires: one of those is the Live wire (you really need a tester to find out which one it is). that goes to the "L in" on the sonoff.  the rest of the red wires lead to the fixtures, so they go on the respective "Out" terminals on the sonoff.

3) tie them together and make sure they don't make contact with the red/black. unfortunately no ground connection on the sonoff 

Edited by MockTurtle
added quote

On 2020/03/21 at 3:46 PM, wolfandy said:

Yes, for me the Sonoffs simply screwed into the box that was behind the old switch. The pic above is a 1-gang, but 1/2/3-gang are all the same size

Just be aware that the Sonoffs require a neutral wire to work, which in SA is not always installed. In my house, my upstairs switches already had a neutral wire in the wall box, but for my downstairs switches I had to pull a new neutral wire through to get the Sonoffs to work. So I would recommend checking what your situation looks like 😉

Here pics of old and new 2-gang

IMG-2801.jpg

IMG-2802.jpg

same story with me! upstairs junctions/switches all had neutrals in... newer renovated part of the house so newer electrical code i guess? downstairs however just had the live and ground wires, so couldn't fit them with the touch switches.

luckily the new sonoff minis just came out so i used those for downstairs. they worked with the old wall switches, but now i can also control the lights remotely.

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