Chris Louw

Thank you for the progress reports @Scorp007
Wish you a speedy and permanent recovery from this re-occurring ailment @TaliaB

Some considerations just based on personal experience.
My first solar path started with a flat plate solar collector. Installation was done with the pump and Geyserwise controller. You need the pump. That flat panel only has a volume of around 1 to 2 litres of water. Once the differential temp between panel and geyser reaches the differential as set then pump circulates the water from the geyser into the panel and the hotter water in the panel goes back into the geyser. Works wonders in summer but winters have been mediocre. It works, but it's a compromise. Had to get a new pump twice in the 5 years I had it.
The Panel had a 5 year guarantee. At 5 years and 2 months it started leaking internally. This thing has no user serviceable parts except for the electronic temp probe which feeds the Geyserwise controller. Suffice to say it was out of guarantee and @SolarGuru advised I need to buy a new one.
Since that flat plate conversion in 2017, I have expanded to a full PV off grid system with enough energy to power the Geyser element via AC. Much more efficient and quicker in heating the water.
After the disappointing flat plate lifetime I regard is a bad investment and it's now just an ornament on the roof. The Geyserwise controller at least still provides me with the temp data and ability to set the timer for the heating periods.
A friend of mine had a PV to Geyser direct installation done. He will send me the photo of the box later on. That sounds like a basic Inverter which selects between grid or Solar. He is running 6 X 250W panels which give him about 180-200VDC which then heat the element directly. I don't know the cost of that "Inverter" box but he paid around R7500 for the full electrical installation with that box, but had to supply his own panels.
I'll post more info for that "inverter" box once I get it and also the details of the Installer that may be able to provide you with further info.

Thank you very much. I will give this a go when I get home.

Great inverters these. Just do the upgrade before you start. A few years ago some Luxpowers would just switch off if ever you exceeded the power side with no damage. Just ensure you stick to below the Voc of the strings and downgrade the string voltage to the lowest temp in your area in winter.

Perhaps add the area you reside in if you need values of yield as it's no use quoting in Gauteng and you in the Cape. Winter there is like being in darkness compared to Gauteng😂
I have used this external method with success.

Depends how you flip it, flip it slow then yes power will drop and return.
Flip it fast enough and there is no break in supply.
Use to do this with my change over switch when I use to run the generator, when grid restored I would flip it fast enough so there is no drop in power.
Disclaimer: this is my process to use and unsure if this is the “proper” way to do this. I have done it for years on the change over with the generator and since I got solar have done this a good few times already without issue. *touch wood*

Just uploaded the file here https://powerforum.co.za/files/file/204-hinaess-computer-software/
You will need one of these 2 usb to r485 connectors
https://www.robotics.org.za/W17286?search=rs485&page=2 I used this one.
https://www.robotics.org.za/RS485-MINI?search=rs485 but this will work too
Firmware file can be requested in what'sApp group https://chat.whatsapp.com/KPUBd7ZC89RL7bIeTRVBRs
Use it for cell voltage monitoring, updating frimware, can't change any bms settings though.

they use a lifepo4 battery,
I would connect a normal car 12v charger(non intelligent) to the solar input of the unit (18v max) just make sure of polarity, and use the internal PWM solar charger as it's setting is correct for the lifepo4 battery inside.

spotweld is the best option. the cells will rust further on the exposed scratched surface, the anti oxidation coating was removed.
I used to do the same, grind the spotweld leftovers off to make a smooth surface for future spotwelds, until I saw that the cells rust on the grinded areas and over time the rust spreads over the anode to form bumps under the cell wrapping.
I now salvage cells by grinding(dremel) the original spotwelds off between cells, trim the original spotweld to the desired shape, and spotweld nickel strips over the original spotweld.

I purchased the Pace RS232 USB to RJ11 cable from SolarAssistant, Loaded BMS Tools HS2.03 (Any PBMS Tools software works)
The ethernet cable used for master and slave is a normal straight-through network cable.

Hello Chris Sadly there are many of these giving problems you can PM me with the serial numbers on the batteries that are faulty and I can try to assist you with the warranty or atleast find out who the supplier was.
I can recommend Freedom Won Greenrich Hubble Lithium these are all established brands that offer relatively decent support on their products and warranties. You can contact us for pricing on these brands however they will not be compatible with the Pylontech batteries.

My voltage was set correct from day 1 . No overcharging and now after 6 years 2 of my 3 batteries are starting to swell . They were all installed on the same day . The cycles are 884 , 772 , 815 . All com cables was installed between batteries . Even the difference in the cycles tells me this is not a good BMS . There is a hell of a alot of these batteries that start to swell on this forum. The system is connect to Sollarassistant and I could see when the first cell was starting to go out of balance . Supplier has disappeared. What is realy a good make of battery.

With my setup 4500 Watt panels is connected to the Voltronic MPPT and 3300 Watt on external MPPT connected to the battery . I run the Voltronic MPPT at a lower voltage and let the external MPPT do the bulk charing . The Epever MPPT have a beter setup system with better control . No voltage overshooting like Voltronic MPPT . I have more useable power and even get the batteries full in cloudy days .

@meetyg I did this preventive maintenance on my Axpert 5 years ago and sofar so good .

@meetyg I did this preventive maintenance on my Axpert 5 years ago and sofar so good .

Technically Yes, but we will overlook it as cells have not been affected. if you ever have an issue with it. Just let me know. And i will assist.
PM me with your whatsapp number and we can assist is you have any issues.

@Pie No problems to charge 3x Pylontech US 3000 batteries with 5 kW Axpert. Use Solarassistant to monitor the state of batteries and monitor and do settings of Inverter remotely. Battery tipe set to User. Float voltage set at 52.5v Using this setup for more than 4 years . No communication between Inverter and batteries. Can also use multiSIB software with Solarassistant cable to check battery .There is a SOP for Pylontech batteries with Axpert inverter. Reduced floatcharge from 53.2v to 52.5v for better battery life suggestion  of @Coulomb

Good evening,
I had word from @TaliaBexhausted wife after a very long day at hospital as the surgery lasted 10 hours. The physician said that the procedure was a success and both clots was removed. He will be in ICU for the next couple of days. He was removed from the ventilator and back on high flow oxygen treatment that is a good sign. Futher as precaution he is receiving anti coagulant medication and antibiotics through iv placed in the main artery in the neck. His brothers and wife has also joined the family today so from here forward i am sure all will be on the up and up. Thanks to all on the forum for rallying your support around him it is much appreciated by the family.
Have a good evening 
Derek.
 

Big mistake and MPPT should go up in smoke using 3 in series. No question about it. Even if it works when switching on it will just be a MB matter of time. 
Will he stand in for the cost when exceeding the specs? 

Axperts have commands to calibrate the battery voltage reading.
There is a very small chance that the Must models use the exact same commands. Axpert details here.
Edit: See next post; it seems that the procedure is vastly different. 

Growatt Inverters have a hidden Program code where the offset of battery and grid for that matter can be adjusted as well.
Press the up and down arrow keys simultaneously. Then enter program code 111
This opens a new submenu with numerous values that can all be offset/adjusted. First one is grid, second one is Battery and then follows a host of other values that I have no clue what they are supposed to adjust. 

@TaliaB100% correct. I once had an IE try to recommend the same to me. I absolutely refused his offer. I told him if you not there physically to carry out the testing of the test report I will get someone who is willing to visit the site. To me this is borderline fraud. 
 

The above is also not lawful! How is the remote friend electrician going to supply a test report if not on-site. COC is not valid without a test report. There is many tests that need to be done before issuing any COC. Attached test report that needs to be completed by an IE or MIE.
2020-TEST-REPORT-GENERAL-Template.pdf

@Scorp007  I run the Axpert with no utility power connection . Setting 12 and 13 is used to control start/stop of a pool pump and geyser . The charging 16 was left on solar/utility. When the load is more than the PV the balance is taken from the batteries . This does not have any effect on the battery charging. Batteries is charged as set on 26 and 27 .

I would think that in a typical load shedding situation, trying to push power into the dead grid would be trying to power at least 1000 homes. Maybe there are only 100 houses on your local transformer, but that transformer is still (I imagine) connected, so you'll try to push power into the distribution system and at least another 10 transformers with 100 houses. That would be indistinguishable from a short circuit. So the inverter should trip on over-current instantly.
I can't think of any plausible scenario where an inverter would literally catch fire, assuming that normal circuit breakers and fuses are in place. Maybe if AC fuses are used to try to protect the battery, and something causes the MOSFETs to short circuit. Something wild on the AC-out could caused the IGBTs to punch through, which has been known to take the MOSFETs with it, shorting the battery. Then the fire could be initiated from the battery cables and PCB conductors, with the AC fuses unable to break the DC arc. There really isn't enough information to go on.