Louisvdw

There was a study done that show only a 1% reduction for east/west panels. In my set up I see almost no reduction. It just adds and works very well.

Normally when you apply to do grid feedback they will come and install a new bidirectional meter. I'm not sure if this one will be, but the bi-dir are more expensive meters, and I doubt those will be installed by default.

As long as you can set the charge voltages you can use any solar charge controller (PWM or MPPT) With PWM it does not work well if you join panels in series. Then MPPT is preferred. So using 1 panel only, or only panels in parallel, then PWM is fine.

This on is my favorite. Might be closer to your Healey. Also: Freedomwon batteries started as a convertion for a Jeep Cherokee. You might want to talk to them as they are in SA.

You can add another bank in parallel. Charge both to full charge separately and then add them in parallel. That way they should have the SOC. It wont be perfect, but it will very close.

The is an ANT-BMS. It works well. We are working on adding this to my driver. But it does not have that interface yet, although the BMS is capable of serial communications (RS485 with the screen and bluetooth to your phone). This is a good option for a BMS. Let me try and explain it another way: All Victron equipment can work independently, but then you then need to set each one up independently as well. They can even work with other manufacturer's equipment. However if you do not know what you are doing this could potentially give you some headaches. In the Victron world i

No. Everything connects to the GX device (the Pi in my case). So the MPPT, the BMS and the inverter connects to the GX device. The GX is the brain of the system. If you do not have a GX device, then nothing talks to each other. On top of managing everything, it then also offer remote monitoring. My suggestion will be to take the Multiplus with the built in GX. It will make your install so much easier. Less (and cheaper) cables you need to buy and set up. That is the Daly BMS that they sell. It is a solid BMS, but with no communications. So it cannot talk to the inverter and the i

I suggest https://lithiumbatteriessa.co.za/collections/frontpage?constraint=Cells although they are currently sold out. Those are 120Ah You just follow the guide on Victron's website. The cables you connect to you get from your Victron supplier, but these need to be the USB versions. If you have a real GX device then the cables is not the USB version which are cheaper. So buying a GX device is expensive, but you save R2000 on the cheaper cables. You need a USB-MK3 cable for the inverter to Pi(R1500) and a USB VE.Direct cable for each SmartSolar controller (R500).

@Racer if you do want to go the Victron option here are 2 options that you can look at. Both are good. If you want to do a Victron blue trolly, look at this thread. This is a 12V, but you can do it as a 24V just the same. The other option is to go full install, using 48V. Something like what I did here

Try the Inverter section and mention Multiplus II ESS in your heading. It will stand out to all the Axpert posts trying to get their inverters to work. hehe

Pylontech are also LiFePO4. If you can set the charge voltages, then you can use these with your inverter. If you want something that will last a long time and just works, go for the Victron. If you want something that you can will have to tinker/fix, then Axpert clones is a cheap option. Some work well and some don't. If you think Victron is a bit more difficult, then you should be looking at the EasySolar(all-in-one) and not the Multiplus(separate components). Something else you can look at is the BlueNova drop in replacement batteries. They are also lithuim, but build to be ab

If you work on 60% of the capacity usage normally you will be fine. So take your usage and add 40% to that and get a battery that give you at least that. You can be more precise if you want to be, but that is a good rule of thumb to use.

Start by looking at Youda Lab thread. It is in there with pinouts and all.

That explains why I have to refresh the page to see the correct details when I return to my VRM tab.

1. You can run a full house on a 5kva. It all depends on how many things you want to switch on and use at the same time. For 99% of the time I run my house of a 3kVA Multiplus II. I have scheduled the big items to try and minimize concurrent use of those, so my geyser (heat pump) switch on at times when the stove and oven would mostly not be used. If it is used it will fall back and add extra power from the grid. 2. Most of the time 5000VA is not 5000W. There is a power factor at play and if there was no losses in conversions then it would be possible. But not in real life. For instance