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Thank you for the great forum, Safe Driving over the weekend. Sincerely Jason

Ingo

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Ingo last won the day on January 27

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  1. Looks interesting, will keep it in mind.
  2. What are the regulations regarding ground-based solar panels and wiring? I would like to toy around with four +400W panels using a ground based contraption and then have the cables run underground to my garage. The cables will be 6mm2 and the panels connected in a series-parallel configuration to suit a SmartSolar 150/45. Panel to Garage distance is 25m. 1. I think a combiner, fuse and Surge protection, at the source would be good unless I am mistaken. It's outdoors so needs to be weatherproof. 2. Do the cables need to run in a steel pipe or can I run a PVC conduit underground and pull the PV cables through there? 3. If steel pipe, do I need to earth it at the panels using a spike or can I earth it and the other end using the house/db/grid supply earth? Lastly, the frame, I guess I have to build my own unless there are kits available that can be assembled for what I am planning. Thanks.
  3. Yip. It's about 10 years old and started out white and now it's a yellowish tint that stands out from the rest. That said, right next to it is a 24V transformer also from Gewiss and that one is still fine. Could be a manufacturing process with the plastic used in a certain batch of Contactors.
  4. Thanks. Just a note on Gewiss: I am sure their kit works well but have a Contactor from them and over the years it turned yellowish - looks a bit odd now among the other white breakers
  5. I have a few old, discontinued, CBI EL breakers that is starting to fail. They are DIN rail and the current replacement part is the QF14CD units which works great but is pricey. What is considered to be a high quality EL unit these days? Hager and ABB are both cheaper than the CBI unit and takes less space so it's something I am considering. Any other suggestions I can evaluate? *63A, 30mA, 2P, No Overload. Ingo
  6. If I had that extra Neutral in my DB like you have I would run it Grid Parallel and not use ACOut2 at all. It will save on the 4P C/O and some DB space, display separate AC Consumption on my GX (which I like) and also fix my pet-peeve of 'something' I can't get fixed on ACOut2. Like @plonkster said, you have to decide which works best for you, you have all the building blocks for a good system.
  7. Actually, if Hager made a 3P unit then that is all you need. I have the Hager 4P change-over installed and I went and got myself the ACDC 3P changeover. Knowing the quality might be a bit less I went for the 125A version but you need a crowbar to switch it over so never installed it. Below is how mine is wired based on your diagram keeping in mind the Neutrals in the Multi is connected together internally. Yes you lose some DB space with the 4P but you have that one open slot available IF you ever want to split the Neutrals BEFORE the inverter and run your heavy loads directly from the grid and only critical loads on ACOut1. I left mine like yours as it's not worth the effort and works perfectly fine as-is except my GX only shows a combined load output and not the split output when done the other way.
  8. Thanks for the wisdom @Jaco de Jongh. I will do the PVC conduits then and leave them open-ended where the installer can better access the entry points. Being right in the corner of the roof and wall is going to be difficult enough even with the conduits already in place.
  9. I would like some advice on PV wiring. Currently I don't have a PV setup but I am working on a solution to first get wiring from my roof to the garage before I get an installer to do the rest. There is no direct path from my top floor to the garage. The only access point is the plumbing shaft that houses all the PVC pipes for the waste water and solid stuff. The shaft runs from my garage roof space to the top floor roof space and is totally enclosed (no access from outside except from within the roof cavities). Here is my plan: I want to install a 8-way DB in the top floor roof space and make provision for 2 x DEHN FM surge protectors. This DB will have 8 x panel mount MC4 connectors to connect two separate strings to the garage roof. Only one will currently be used but for expansion I have the option of another separate feed. The surge protection has additional 'status' contacts that I can connect to a monitoring system to see if they are Ok or not. The next step is to put another 8-way DB in the garage roof without any components, just the same 8 x MC4 panel mount connectors and bridge them internally from In to Out to form a termination DB. In the 'poop-shaft' as I call it, I run 2 x 25mm PVC pipes each with 2 x 6mm PV cable in each and one with an additional earth cable that terminates between the two DB's. Sort-off like structured wiring in the Networking/Datacentre environments. When I am ready to install my panels I then run the panels to the top floor DB and then just a small stretch from the Garage DB to the Solar Inverter. The idea is not to ever fiddle with cabling in the 'poop-shaft' as there is NO space and I am getting older so don't really want to get in there if it can be avoided. If not used, the second pair of cabling also acts as a backup so I can switch over if there ever is damage to the first pair. The current planned PV design is an AC coupled Fronius inverter running +-3.5KW @ +-500V odd. The MC4 connectors are well withing spec current wise. 6mm cable is because of the distance and future capacity growth. So the question: Do the clever guys agree with this plan? I could sacrifice the Garage Roof DB and go straight to the DB next to the Fronius Inverter but then the cable has to flow through a few more angles via the PVC conduit to get there. All possible of course.
  10. @spark88I have Battery Balance also and a second Power Meter on ACOut2 to measure Non-Critical loads. My GUI is based on a Comfort Ultra Alarm and Management system and a PC front-end developed by a buddy in the UK. Maybe it can give you an idea or two, free, gratis and verniet. Note, that second power meter is in no way connected to any Victron kit, I read ModBus data directly from it via ethernet.
  11. Planned vs Unplanned. That doesn't mean Planned Outage doesn't cause a blackout. A Blackout is usually due to a fault.
  12. You can't - Legal issues. If the company then suffers due to your name and shame and people lose their jobs because of it you will surely be in for a rough legal ride. Just don't do it. I know, it sucks but that's how the cookie crumbles. Just ask for a recommendation from the forum members on who they will recommend AND ask for references. Then check it yourself.
  13. Ingo

    Changeover Switch

    Just also check that the rotary switch fits. They are sometimes a bit deeper than the blade-type with the knob sticking out so you might not be able to close the door.
  14. https://www.communica.co.za/products/cramolin-freeze

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