JayN

I didn't think that was an option. I could have done that and got rid of my unit. But now it seems fine.

What have you done with the Hubbles you've removed?

I have no experience with either inverter. What I understand is that you want an "out" on the inverter to the pump, and an "in" on the inverter from the grid and PV. Pump starts and runs and as the PV ramps up the kw produced by PV reduces the draw from the grid. The inverter should be able to blend the grid and solar PV to meet the pump requirements. That way you reduce your cost of grid power. Technically a grid tie inverter does just that ...

Cool ... Cudub have just come back and added more panels for me. I now have 19 x 545w panels - three strings, two of which are in parallel. Roof space was an issue, although in hindsight I could have squeezed in 3 more panels. I have more solar power than I need. Hoping to upgrade my batteries next year. I now draw only 10kwh per day from the grid on average - total daily consumption is around 35kwh. I added the panels before the batteries, because I have a Hubble and I want to change that to something else. Also added a few aircons at home ... and now day time cooling and geyser heating is through solar.

I totally agree. Hubble support is shocking. It took my battery a month for the repair - could have been done within 7 working days or less. I will not recommend buying a Hubble based on my experience. The batteries are constantly problematic ... I'm lucky if my battery gets up to 98% SOC, even though there is more than enough PV available everyday.

@PowerUser This is a nonsense response. It is an open forum and legitimate question asked on topic.

Hi ... I just did two applets in the CBI app. The first applet starts the monitoring a minute after the switch turns on. The second applet runs once the minute from the first applet is up. If the power is less say 100w, then turn the switch off.

Thanks ... that simplifies it.

Hi ... nope. This is a 12kw inverter. You can push 6kw on a phase load shedding or not. You will be left with 6kw for the other two phases ... i.e. 3kw+3kw or 4kw+2kw or any combination which adds up the remaining 6kw. When there is no load shedding, there is a pass through, and I'm not sure how much that can go. The brochures says 100% unbalanced load, but I'm not sure about that. I should reach out to Keith Gouch and clarify.

Hi ... not during load shedding. When the grid goes down during load shedding, none of the major loads come on. Geysers and pool pump are smartly controlled via wifi switches. The only major loads which we control is the microwave, kettle, iron and oven - that we make sure we don't put on during load shedding. I have 5kwh battery at 1c, and I try not to push this beyond 0.5c - 0.75c. My battery can therefore only deliver around around 4kw peak during load shedding - if that happens at the start I will not see out the 2 hours of load shedding. I definitely need additional battery storage.

I have also written two "if this then that" applets that switches the geyser off as soon as it reaches its full temp (when the thermostat kicks in). At this point the geyser automatically switches off ... without having to come off and on until the timer kicks in.

Hi ... I manage my loads. When the grid is down, I make sure that there are no heavy loads or that the loads are less than the PV production. Fortunately there were no clouds during this period that dropped PV production to less than demand or else the inverter would have cut out. Was a stressful period without the battery, but the system works.

@James1 I have been down this road and had all the same questions. Firstly, many installers will encourage you to drop the 3 phase and go for a 1 phase supply. At some point in the future (if and when you get an EV) you may regret this. I installed a Sunsynk 12kw 3P inverter as the most practical option. Others have installed 3 x 5kw or 3 x 8kw single phase Sunsynk inverts to do pretty much the same job, obviously with a much higher output than my 12kw inverter. If you are going for three inverters, common battery bank linked via a bus bar will work. If you go the 3 inverter route, you then get the no. of MPPT's x 3 inverters. On my 12 kw Sunsynk, I get 2 MPPTs. What is important for the solar array is the voltage ... you have to have enough volts going through the system, but bot exceed the max volts. You can start with an array or two linked to one of the inverters, usually the master. If you go for a 5kw inverter, that will limit you to solar arrays of around 5kw. If you want more panels, you would need to connect up to slave 1 and slave 2. Please feel free to reach out to me and I'm happy to share my experience.

I have a Sunsynk and for 4 weeks while my battery was in for repairs, the inverter worked just fine. I just ticked the no battery option. Solar was fine to power the house during the sunlight hours.

You could do the same with ewelink ... but it must monitor voltage.

I've used a simple smart wifi plug. What I have noticed is that the grid runs at around 230-245v normally. When the grid is down the inverter output is around 220v. I use a tuya plug to send me an alert the moment the voltage drop below 225v. You could use the same alert to shut down the plug.

That's a very high discharge rate and deep DoD. What is the warranty cycle count?

Hi ... is it possible to post the cycle count and SOH?

Incorrect firmware version. Try v1.46. Hubble will advise.

Looks very much like a battery calibration issue.

I finally managed to get my battery to the service centre, and low and behold they have confirmed that one of the cells is faulty resulting in my 50% battery capacity. The software update did not help me. Next step is that they have to send it down to CPT to have the cells removed and rewelded. Hoping to have the battery back next week.

@HubbleLithium So ... after 3/4 months of trouble shooting and blaming it on a firmware update, I have confirmed that my Hubble AM-2 has failed. On normal use, about a single cycle per day, my battery lost half its capacity in March 2022 (installation was end of Sept 2021). Battery never went below 20% and was charged to 100% at least once a day - one of the timed slots at night on my Sunsynk. It needs to be removed and sent into their service centre. Hubble does not carry the cost of the failure in terms of removal and reinstallation. They will only look at the device at their premises and getting it to them is, according them, my issue. If one applies this logic, in the long term the Hubbles are more cost than they are worth. I am super disappointed after initially being a big Hubble fan and supporter. It was great while it lasted. I'll get this battery repaired / replaced under warranty and will probably look to make a change going forward.

Hubble have not formally said that their battery does not talk to the Sunsynk and that you definitely need Riot. If they did that, and we had known that, then it may have been better to go with other batteries, e.g. Freedom Won or Pylontech ...

Will do this as soon as we are out of loadshedding ...

Thanks Jason, This is the right approach.