kellerza

It would make life easier! One easy change I can think of would be to change _power_kwh, to _energy. I also made this mistake in one of the erlier editions of the addon and since updated & deprecated the old names - https://github.com/kellerza/sunsynk/blob/main/sunsynk/definitions.py#L318 It is a bit painful, since you lose your Energy stats

I managed to return mine. Sad to say, but the installer did not even want to install it

The error you show @Sparkz0629 seems to be related to the umodbus driver There are some options here - https://github.com/kellerza/sunsynk/issues/131 Personally, I use this via mbusd all the time and gave away one of my Pi's that I used to test the direct serial interface. So unless someone helps out with some testing its not something easily solved by just looking at the code. Btw, the pymodbus driver seems to be a lot more stable these days, they have done some significant updates

Next time if it fails, take a snapshot of the log BEFORE you restart it and post it on the sunsynk github repo as a fault A PR is fairly easy, and you first step to help build something that you & hopefully others can use!. In your case it's a single line to the definitions.py file

If you have power outages in this forum you are doing something wrong! Best is to look at the log, but it should print an error and wait for 30 seconds before it exits (and the watchdog restarts). Unplug the Pi/restarts your router to test this. See https://kellerza.github.io/sunsynk/reference/mysensors for the imports, then you probably need SENSORS += MathSensor((186, 187), "PV power", WATT, factors=(1, 1)) - if this works, feel free to create a PR on the repo

RTFM 😉 https://kellerza.github.io/sunsynk/guide/deployment-options https://kellerza.github.io/sunsynk/reference/multi-options#inverters

Why not just run InfluxDB on the HA Pi? You should probably have a look at Node-RED's logs. Can't help much more than that as I don't use Node-RED at all. HA on it's own can do some pretty neat automations and between native integrations & addons there is very little you cannot do. You could always try running mbusd on the Pi0 and the addon on you HA Pi.

@aaelex do you share the CAN bus with the battery? If you have constant writes you will likely shorten your SD card's lifetime. On my Home Assistant I use a USB SSD.

@roadkill it also depends on the size of your inverter. If you have a 5kW and a 4kW geyser element, rather put it on non-essentials. Note that the Sunsynk/Deye can supply up to 2x its rater output for 10 seconds, so it should also be possible to switch off a geyser when the kettle/hair dryer is turned on. Mine is on non-essentials and I manage the Inverter's load limit to ensure I don't discharge my batteries to the geyser during the evenings (while Eskom messes around with my geyser's smart switch), see here: https://kellerza.github.io/sunsynk/examples/a-mode#load-limit

- use the multi addon - use mbusd to connect to the serial port - modbus id = 1 (16 is not supported today) - should still be pins 1-3. Plug out the bms/can cable and plug in the modbus cable

We've recently seen some of these TCP to RS485 converters don't really support Modbus TCP. I'm not saying this is your issue, but might be worth keeping that in mind See this issue: Issues · kellerza/sunsynk (github.com)

You can run two copies of the addon, the normal and the dev version, very similar to what you'd do today. There is an open issue on the sunsynk GitHub repo discussing this. For a third you can run a local copy. I've got some beta code to run multiple inverters (and the 12k) but probably won't be able to spend much time on it before May.

I have two automations for my inverter, that should be easy to implement with your setup: If the solar forecast for the day is less than x kWh, don't run the pool pump (mine has a heat pump so 3.5kW) In the evenings, without solar. I switch my Load Limit setting on my inverter to "Essentials only". During the day this is set to "Zero Export". This prevents the battery draining into any non-essentials during the evening. Other automations: I have a temp probe on my geyser, so normally don't go above 50degC, except once a week to prevent any nasty bacteria forming in there. My alarm is also part of the HA setup, and the main use case (except for remote monitoring & being able to switch off some sensor if the dog is in the house/garage) is to do presence-based lights. Based on different zones that gets triggered you can keep these on for different lengths of time. This combines outside lights with time schedules & presence. Another simple one is turning on the radio (google home) to a local station (RSG) in the morning. You can also make sure it turns itself off before all the call-in shows start (a very important automation!). Kids can only watch an hour's worth of streaming (this one is still a work in progress and manually triggered today) Enjoy your Smart Home journey!!

Very nice layout @Rynoster! Another quick option is the "Add to dashboard" button, available in the Home Assistant settings (Settings->Devices&Services-->Devices-->Sunsynk). But the layout is not as slick. The dashboard I use you have to click to change a value. It still provides an overview, but it's not so easy to accidentally change a setting 😉

I've updated the fault finding section to include this. kellerza/sunsynk: Sunsynk Inverter Python library and Home Assistant OS Addon (github.com) In your case, `DEVICE` is ignored, it uses `PORT` if it contains any value. In all cases I would still use the umodbus driver, since it is much more reliable to reconnect. You can see from Jack's log pymodbus disconnected for some reason (last error in his log). I only use the pymodbus driver to do basic development work from windows, else I use umodbus. Will update the docs

Glad you got it working with Solar Assistant!! If you are someone who expects support, you are doing the opensource devs a favor by simply buying a product with support 😉

The wrong serial nr in the config does not affect reading the serial from the device... It will tell you if the number was wrong. mbusd can run anywhere, including the same pi A crc error can be due to bad wiring/not using a pair/a bad cable/bad module/too much interference/you trying everything and causing the smoke to escape...

A google search gave this, but obviously use on your own risk... Si-Sensor Victron RS485 to USB interface Signal Brown Orange RS485 Data A + Orange Yellow RS485 Data B - Red - Power Pos - 12 to 28 VDC Black Power Neg/Gnd - 0 VDC Black (thick) - Ground / Cable Shield / PE - Red Power Pos - 5 VDC (not used) - Black Power Neg/Gnd - 0 VDC (not used) Brown Terminator 1 - 120R (not used) Green Terminator 2 - 120R (not used)

Not sure Node-Red give you that much from a dashboarding and UI perspective. You have a UI to modify some system settings on Node-Red, which can just as easily be done on Home Assistant these days. For everything else, Node-Red simply feeds the information via MQTT to Home Assistant. Home Assistant is where the dashboards, energy management UI, and even automation in many cases lives. It's all on an app and integrates with a 1000+ services devices. There is even ESPHome (once again a Home Assistant project) code that could probably read these register values into Home Assistant with your existing hardware. Node-Red might be somewhat more flexible for automations, but for everything else and 98.5% of automations you have Home Assistant. But I admit I might be biased, in the past I've built my own hardware - based on ATmegas and electric Imps ;-), UIs and eventually settled on HASS in 2016. Today it is one of the most active opensource projects out there, which obviously serves as some nice confirmation bias 😉

While I cannot really comment on where you want to store these registers in Node-Red, I can comment on the concept behind bulk reading. And agree that it makes a lot of sense! A call to read the RS485 holding registers needs a start and a length, so you obviously want to read the optimal length. Since all the registers you need are not sequential, you will have to group your reads. There is a couple of factors you should keep in mind. Sometimes it might make sense to read a register or two that you do not need, since skipping one might be expensive. With some hardware the size of the blocks you can read can be limited. Once you've figured out what registers you need, you can have a look at what we do in the Sunsynk Python library to group these - groups Btw with the library it's easy to react within a second or two to a major load/power change. The idea from the start was that I can control loads, and even remove them if the inverter goes above its rated 5Kw output. In reality the solution was much simpler, and I ended up simply spreading my heavy loads through the day (geyser & pool pump+heatpump).

If you have a directly connected interface, try having a *blank* PORT and selecting your DEVICE... Also try these kellerza/sunsynk: Sunsynk Inverter Python library and Home Assistant OS Addon (github.com) I find the umodbus driver more reliable. By far the most reliable is the umodbus driver connected to mbusd via TCP, which connects to the usb port

There is probably nothing wrong with the cable, but if I see a pre made-up cable, I always wonder: Do you cut the connector off to route the cable through sprague & the cable glands, or do you cut the cable gland to make the connector fit? (And if you use a RJ45 inline extender, then you still need a crimping tool 😉)

Read the link in my signature. There are even pictures 🤪

Once you have the data in Home Assistant you can use it in any dashboard, it does not matter if it comes from Solar Assistant or any of the other options. In Home Assistant, go to Developer Tools -> States tab and then filter on the Attributes column for 'power' or 'energy' to see what sensors you have available.

@Zodiac69 trying to understand what is different with your setup, you mentioned this worked: while this did not Or more specifically, I'm missing where L2 is being measured! Sensor(169, "Grid power", WATT, -1), # L1(167) + L2(168) Sensor(167, "Grid LD power", WATT, -1), # L1 seems to be LD Sensor(168, "Grid L2 power", WATT, -1),