JayMc

Just saw that I never posted an update on my installation. I had significant heat loss at night and also installed a NRV. Solved the back feeding problem and was very easy to do. Green = geyser at hot outlet side. Yellow = solar collector temperature at the inlet side Blue = Temperature at the collector on the output side. During the night, there appeared to be back feeding of water into the collectors (blue). Once that NRV was installed, that blue line drops over night which means there is no longer a back feeding of hot water into the collectors.

Hi! Having a look at this integration. Is there any way to speed up the data and make it real-time?

Solar Assistant is very powerful and will provide you realtime data (not aggregated over 5min). Reach out to [email protected] help in setting this up with Home Assistant to really optimise your system (production + consumption). automateit.co.za

To elaborate. We have checked wiring, changed out the earth leakage, checked the E+N bond etc. Nothing seems to be solving it. And, the only thing tripping the earth is when AC is into the inverter and output changes from SBU to SUB or Utility.

Hi! My Growatt 5000ES is tripping the earth leakage when AC power is on into the inverter and the output settings change from SBU to SUB. I have recently installed an E+N bond but that hasn't helped. Any thoughts on what it could be?

@gperasmus could you assist in explaining: 1. The cable pin-out (both ends) 2. Which ports you used on the Growatt (BMS or RS485) and Hubble (CAN or RS485) 3. The settings (I see above you used 5. lit and 36. L52. We're also struggling with the battery comms on a Growatt 5000ES and Hubble AM2. Thanks in advance!

Hey! Ye, my problem started in December 2022 when my SA was giving voltage errors. I changed out the power supply and didn't connect the dots in regard to the communication issues that then started. It was only recently when I swapped the power suppliers back to how they were that things returned to normal. I advised SA of the problem I faced and how it was resolved. Glad you're sorted too! J

Hi! Did you find a solution to this problem? I have a Growatt 5000ES paired to Solar Assistant and have also started experiencing the issue. The system worked great for a few months and is now faulty. The connection between the inverter and Solar Assistant keeps dropping. I've tried new cables, added ferrite beads, tried different USB ports on my pi, nothing is working. I'm not sure what else to do. Regards

Right. Here's my first stab at the automation. I haven't used the temperature differential as the trigger for the pump, rather a set 10min off and then 10min on, within a specific time period. However, if the collector output matches the collector input, the pump will stop and wait for 10min, then try again. Will play around with this and see how it performs. So far, it's looking good. Will change the pump on/off times to work with temperature differentials - like the geyserwise system. Here's a screengrab from this morning as well as my Node-Red flow.

Will do. I feel much the same. I have a solar install and typically have the inverter power the geyser element. I've just been flummoxed at the relatively poor performance of this solar geyser - I had it redone as part of an insurance claim. Keen to see how the collectors perform now with the new pump config. Thanks for your inputs!

I have a split system with 20 evacuated collectors. I have 3 sensors and all data is brought into my Home Assistant. I have a sensor on the collector output (but I now see it's positioned too far away from the output side), a sensor on the collector inlet side and a sensor on the geyser hot output. I had the pump running all day but have now created an automation in Node Red to basically toggle the pump. Keen to see how this performs!

Thanks for the reply! Ye, that's how I understood it. I had a solar geyser installed but the pump was connected to a solar panel so it literally runs the whole day provided there is sun. I've moved the pump over to a smart switch so now I control when it goes on and off but I was quite curious to know which is the better heating system, 1. pump on all day (provided output temp is higher than input) or 2. pump toggles on and off.

Hey guys, I read that the geyserwise system works on the premise that the solar geyser pump will turn on when the collector temperature is 7deg higher than the geyser temp, it then stays on for x duration and turns off again, then repeats the cycle. My question. Should the solar geyser pump be running continuously throughout the day (provided the collector output temp is higher than the input collector temp)? OR, should the pump toggle on and off throughout the day pushing bursts of hot water into the geyser?

Hey guys! I'm loving this thread. I wanted to ask for some advice. I recently got a 200lt split solar geyser system installed with 20 collectors. There is a pump fixed to the collector cold side pumping water into the collectors. The pump rate is 4LPM. Since the system was installed, today is about the only nice sunny day we've had here in JHB so it's a good indicator of the systems performance. Overall, I'm quite disappointed in the system. The solar gain seems painfully slow. With the pump running and in full sun, you can see that the collector outlet side is gaining 0.6deg every 12min. Does this sound right? Here is a screengrab of the data (1hr and 12hr) - I have sensors on the collector inlet, collector outlet and the geyser hot outlet. Red indicates the geyser element being on. Gray indicates the solar pump on. I saw some talk about the head - I don't know if my pump is under powered, if there is too much head or if this is just how these systems perform. Looking forward to your replies!