suds7162

I'm considering purchasing a similar model for my own backup needs (Specifically the PV18-3024VPM). I've been studying the user manual as part of my research.
I interpret the "output source priority" options as follows:
SUB = solar - utility - battery SBU = solar - battery - utility SOL = solar only UTI = utility only Based on this, I reckon you actually want SUB - since you don't want to use battery if the grid is available? SUB should use solar first, if that's not available, go to utility, and if that's not available then battery. My interpretation of the SUB setting description is that it'll draw as much solar as it can, if the loads is more than what solar can give, it'll draw from the grid, and if the grid is not available then it'll draw from the battery. This way you will always use your panels to provide power to the home when the sun's out.
In addition to the above, you have two other important settings:
"Solar Supply Priority" (05)
I reckon for this one, you need to set it to LBU (load-battery-utility). If the battery level is lower than the setpoint in setting 20, then use solar to charge the battery. I interpret "If the battery voltage is higher than the setting point in program 20, the solar energy will supply to the load or recharge the battery." to mean that it'll charge the battery at whatever amperage it needs, and the rest will go to the load.
In addition to this, I think you can change setting 20 to something higher than default. Set it to maybe 70% of your battery SOC voltage? That way, you will never drain the battery below 70% IFF the grid is available and you have no sun. You'll only dip into your reserves if the grid is not available during loadshedding.
"Charger Source Priority" (10)
Here I think SNU (solar-and-utility). You will charge the battery using both solar and grid (same as setting 05). 
 
I think bottom line is the battery is there for a backup. Not to be used as part of your regular daily usage. Our grid is unpredictable, and you want to make sure you have battery available when you need it, and not draw from the batteries when you can avoid it (when the grid is available).

For which council is this?
Can you maybe link to some online literature that explains this in more detail? It's the first I've heard of this, so would be interested to learn more.

Be careful, many in this forum regard that as a "sun tax", and it's highly controversial. Even though it's a perfectly reasonable thing for the council to do.

Ok, so first a summary of my setup:
8 kW Sunsynk inverter 2 x 5kWh Greenrich WM5000 wall mount batteries 10 x 555W Longi panels, for a peak of 5.5kW nameplate capacity. All my circuits are connected on the essentials (UPS) side, except for the geyser, which is connected to the Aux output. Although I am considering moving it over to the main UPS output as well. Battery Mode:
No screenshot, but the only interesting thing there is I have "Grid Charge" enabled. So that I can authorize my inverter to charge the batteries from the grid under extreme conditions (see below).
Work Mode: System 1:

Some general notes:
"Use Timer" is enabled, otherwise all the settings on this screen is ignored.  The SOC column determines the lowest allowable SOC before the inverter will switch over to grid mode. If there is no grid, the inverter will continue using battery, even if it goes below the setting for that time slot If you have either the "Grid" or "GEN" columns ticked, then the inverter will charge the battery from the grid/generator up to the SOC value. This will only happen if your battery SOC is less than the setting for that time slot. My reasoning for these settings
I never want my battery SOC to dip below 50%. This is because we often have loadshedding in the mornings before the sun comes up, and that's when I want to use my coffee machine. With my house's load it's easy to completely drain my batteries in a single night, which results in me being without power in the early morning before my PV starts producing.  The side effect of this is that my inverter regularly switches over to grid from midnight-ish till about 07h when the PV starts generating. I buy about 1-3 kWh eskom power every day.  A 3rd battery will take away this problem, because then I'll have more than enough capacity to last me through the night, but at R30k, just to save R10/day it's not worth it. From 10h-16h I require my batteries to be at least 75%. My assumption is that with good sun, my batteries should be at 100% before noon every day, regardless of how much they have drained the night before. Between 16h-20h I also require the 75% limit, BUT, I authorize my inverter to use grid during this slot if the batteries are not up to spec. This only happens under serious inclement weather, which happens about 10 days out of the year in Pretoria. The timeslot for this grid charge event is 4 hours long, so that if I were to be loadshat during this slot, I'll have some power either side of the loadshedding event to charge batteries. Our area rarely start loadsedding at 16h. it's either 15h, or 18h. I don't want to be caught off guard with a flat battery during loadshedding and rainy weather. If my batteries are at 75% by 20h, I have enough remaining energy to last me through the night till dawn (usually). During 20h-01h I lower the SOC limit to 50%, because that's typically where the battery will be anyway.  Grid charge is also on here, in case I dipped lower than that and I need to make sure I have enough juice left for the aforementioned coffee machine the next morning. Work Mode: System 2

I honestly can't figure out how the "Zero Export" series of checkboxes work. This is how my installer set it up, and it works, so I leave it like this. I don't export to the grid, and I don't have non-essentials connected. So no need to fiddle with it.
What is important to note, is I have "Priority Load" set to OFF. This means "Priority Battery" is ON. What this means is that when my battery SOC is less than whatever SOC if have set in the timer table under "System 1", then the inverter will send ALL the PV power to the battery. When this happens, the inverter uses grid to power the load. If there is no grid, then this setting is ignored and the load is powered, and remaining PV is sent to the batteries.
Remember, the "Load" output on the inverter is a UPS output. So the inverter will do everything in its power to ensure it remains on at all times. 
Aux Load

I'm not really using my Aux load as an aux load anymore, but my geyser is connected to it. I did not want to redo my wiring so I set everything to 0 to essentially force the Aux output to function identically to the UPS output (i.e. always on).
Do you want me to explain how this screen and its settings work, so that you can use it for your pool pump, or are you familiar with how it works already?
Geyser
I recently installed a Geyserwise TSE timer, and I have it setup as follows, to help me better manage things:
The four temperature blocks I have set as 00h00 - 06h00: 45C 06h00 - 12h00: 50C 12h00 - 18h00: 75C 18h00 - 24h00: 45C For the Timer, I have 2 blocks enabled: 10h30 - 17h00: This is the main heating period. I assume my batteries are full by this time (they normally are), so I have more than enough excess solar to then "charge" my geyser. You'll notice this "on" period goes up to 75C. So I make my geyser as hot as it'll go from the sun, as I see the geyser as another battery. During the days of inclement weather, I need to basically monitor things, and then maybe when I hit 50C or whatever I switch the geyserwise off with the keypad. With inclement weather it's likely I'll heat the geyser from the grid, so no need to then make it hot as hell.  04h30 - 05h00: This is a short period of boost, before my morning ablutions. Just to make sure there is some hot water. This is especially important if someone took a bath the night before, or if the geyser did not get up to max temperature. Often, because of my battery SOC settings, this boost will draw from the batteries or from the grid, depending on where my SOC is at that time. 30 minutes on my geyser is 1kWh, 10% of my battery capacity, or about R2, so not that bad. This boost does not happen every day, if we took showers the night before, then it's still well above 45C the next morning a lekker hot shower. Note: I installed a 2kW element. Originally I had a 4kW element installed. 2kW is small enough that it will not overwhelm my PV production. So I will almost always heat my geyser from PV, unless it's the early morning boost, or when there is inclement weather during the day.

Ok, so first a summary of my setup:
8 kW Sunsynk inverter 2 x 5kWh Greenrich WM5000 wall mount batteries 10 x 555W Longi panels, for a peak of 5.5kW nameplate capacity. All my circuits are connected on the essentials (UPS) side, except for the geyser, which is connected to the Aux output. Although I am considering moving it over to the main UPS output as well. Battery Mode:
No screenshot, but the only interesting thing there is I have "Grid Charge" enabled. So that I can authorize my inverter to charge the batteries from the grid under extreme conditions (see below).
Work Mode: System 1:

Some general notes:
"Use Timer" is enabled, otherwise all the settings on this screen is ignored.  The SOC column determines the lowest allowable SOC before the inverter will switch over to grid mode. If there is no grid, the inverter will continue using battery, even if it goes below the setting for that time slot If you have either the "Grid" or "GEN" columns ticked, then the inverter will charge the battery from the grid/generator up to the SOC value. This will only happen if your battery SOC is less than the setting for that time slot. My reasoning for these settings
I never want my battery SOC to dip below 50%. This is because we often have loadshedding in the mornings before the sun comes up, and that's when I want to use my coffee machine. With my house's load it's easy to completely drain my batteries in a single night, which results in me being without power in the early morning before my PV starts producing.  The side effect of this is that my inverter regularly switches over to grid from midnight-ish till about 07h when the PV starts generating. I buy about 1-3 kWh eskom power every day.  A 3rd battery will take away this problem, because then I'll have more than enough capacity to last me through the night, but at R30k, just to save R10/day it's not worth it. From 10h-16h I require my batteries to be at least 75%. My assumption is that with good sun, my batteries should be at 100% before noon every day, regardless of how much they have drained the night before. Between 16h-20h I also require the 75% limit, BUT, I authorize my inverter to use grid during this slot if the batteries are not up to spec. This only happens under serious inclement weather, which happens about 10 days out of the year in Pretoria. The timeslot for this grid charge event is 4 hours long, so that if I were to be loadshat during this slot, I'll have some power either side of the loadshedding event to charge batteries. Our area rarely start loadsedding at 16h. it's either 15h, or 18h. I don't want to be caught off guard with a flat battery during loadshedding and rainy weather. If my batteries are at 75% by 20h, I have enough remaining energy to last me through the night till dawn (usually). During 20h-01h I lower the SOC limit to 50%, because that's typically where the battery will be anyway.  Grid charge is also on here, in case I dipped lower than that and I need to make sure I have enough juice left for the aforementioned coffee machine the next morning. Work Mode: System 2

I honestly can't figure out how the "Zero Export" series of checkboxes work. This is how my installer set it up, and it works, so I leave it like this. I don't export to the grid, and I don't have non-essentials connected. So no need to fiddle with it.
What is important to note, is I have "Priority Load" set to OFF. This means "Priority Battery" is ON. What this means is that when my battery SOC is less than whatever SOC if have set in the timer table under "System 1", then the inverter will send ALL the PV power to the battery. When this happens, the inverter uses grid to power the load. If there is no grid, then this setting is ignored and the load is powered, and remaining PV is sent to the batteries.
Remember, the "Load" output on the inverter is a UPS output. So the inverter will do everything in its power to ensure it remains on at all times. 
Aux Load

I'm not really using my Aux load as an aux load anymore, but my geyser is connected to it. I did not want to redo my wiring so I set everything to 0 to essentially force the Aux output to function identically to the UPS output (i.e. always on).
Do you want me to explain how this screen and its settings work, so that you can use it for your pool pump, or are you familiar with how it works already?
Geyser
I recently installed a Geyserwise TSE timer, and I have it setup as follows, to help me better manage things:
The four temperature blocks I have set as 00h00 - 06h00: 45C 06h00 - 12h00: 50C 12h00 - 18h00: 75C 18h00 - 24h00: 45C For the Timer, I have 2 blocks enabled: 10h30 - 17h00: This is the main heating period. I assume my batteries are full by this time (they normally are), so I have more than enough excess solar to then "charge" my geyser. You'll notice this "on" period goes up to 75C. So I make my geyser as hot as it'll go from the sun, as I see the geyser as another battery. During the days of inclement weather, I need to basically monitor things, and then maybe when I hit 50C or whatever I switch the geyserwise off with the keypad. With inclement weather it's likely I'll heat the geyser from the grid, so no need to then make it hot as hell.  04h30 - 05h00: This is a short period of boost, before my morning ablutions. Just to make sure there is some hot water. This is especially important if someone took a bath the night before, or if the geyser did not get up to max temperature. Often, because of my battery SOC settings, this boost will draw from the batteries or from the grid, depending on where my SOC is at that time. 30 minutes on my geyser is 1kWh, 10% of my battery capacity, or about R2, so not that bad. This boost does not happen every day, if we took showers the night before, then it's still well above 45C the next morning a lekker hot shower. Note: I installed a 2kW element. Originally I had a 4kW element installed. 2kW is small enough that it will not overwhelm my PV production. So I will almost always heat my geyser from PV, unless it's the early morning boost, or when there is inclement weather during the day.

I'm considering purchasing a similar model for my own backup needs (Specifically the PV18-3024VPM). I've been studying the user manual as part of my research.
I interpret the "output source priority" options as follows:
SUB = solar - utility - battery SBU = solar - battery - utility SOL = solar only UTI = utility only Based on this, I reckon you actually want SUB - since you don't want to use battery if the grid is available? SUB should use solar first, if that's not available, go to utility, and if that's not available then battery. My interpretation of the SUB setting description is that it'll draw as much solar as it can, if the loads is more than what solar can give, it'll draw from the grid, and if the grid is not available then it'll draw from the battery. This way you will always use your panels to provide power to the home when the sun's out.
In addition to the above, you have two other important settings:
"Solar Supply Priority" (05)
I reckon for this one, you need to set it to LBU (load-battery-utility). If the battery level is lower than the setpoint in setting 20, then use solar to charge the battery. I interpret "If the battery voltage is higher than the setting point in program 20, the solar energy will supply to the load or recharge the battery." to mean that it'll charge the battery at whatever amperage it needs, and the rest will go to the load.
In addition to this, I think you can change setting 20 to something higher than default. Set it to maybe 70% of your battery SOC voltage? That way, you will never drain the battery below 70% IFF the grid is available and you have no sun. You'll only dip into your reserves if the grid is not available during loadshedding.
"Charger Source Priority" (10)
Here I think SNU (solar-and-utility). You will charge the battery using both solar and grid (same as setting 05). 
 
I think bottom line is the battery is there for a backup. Not to be used as part of your regular daily usage. Our grid is unpredictable, and you want to make sure you have battery available when you need it, and not draw from the batteries when you can avoid it (when the grid is available).

I've been participating quite regularly on the forum for a short while now, but earlier this week I finally got my setup installed and comissioned.
Some information:
Sunsynk 8kW Inverter 2 X Greenrich WM5000 wall mount batteries 10 X Longi 555W panels, all facing north. I was originally planning on going 6+6, with one string facing north and another facing east/west due to size constraints on my north-facing roof. But the installers managed to fit 10 on the north facing roof alone, and we reckoned 10 facing north is better than 6 facing north and 6 facing east/west. I was considering buying 8 more, and put another 10 on the other roof so that I can use the other MPPT as well, but that might come in the future, pending my actual usage patterns.
Solar generation is good so far, and in fact it seems over specced. On sunny days I have this large notch in the middle of my PV graph. The batteries are recharged by 10h, and the rest of the day's loads are quite low. 
I have my geyser connected to the inverter Aux port, as a semi-critical load. I'm still playing around with the settings to find the most optimal configuration, but so far it seems like it's working. I've made another post explaining how I set things up. I reduced the geyser element to 2kW, so that when it runs it can run 100% off solar. I don't want to cycle my batteries during the day for hot water. The geyser thermostat is also set as high as it can go, so that it can act like a thermal battery of sorts, taking up more of that sunshine if the rest of my loads don't call for it.
Total outlay was just north of R200k. I purchased the expensive equipment myself (inverter+batteries+pv), and contracted an installer to do the actual installation for me.

So in summary, on a normal day like today, with lots of sunshine:

Some things to note:
Not sure what that 01h00 spike is. Need to figure that one out.  The 04h30 geyser boost took place, and pulled from the batteries because the grid was off. This is not ideal, a cooler shower is preferable imo, but there is no way for me to avoid this, unless I wake up at 04h30 to switch off the geyser. Batteries were fully charged by 10h30. The coffee machine morning spike came from the grid, because the batteries were <50% SOC at this time, so the inverter did not allow it to go lower.  The spikes you see above the geyser's 2kW draw include the dishwasher, washing machine and other things like kettles.  15h50 spike was the airfryer, lunch. On a less than nice day, where it's either raining the whole day or cloudy, things might look like this:

Notes:
Geyser still comes on in it's given time slot (hot showers are important!), but now the inverter uses a blend of solar and grid to do that, because there is not enough PV do it alone. The inverter brings the battery up to 75% as per my settings, and uses grid in this time to power other loads. Once it's at 75% it stays there, and uses grid to power my loads, as I had a massive rain storm at this time and PV was uncerperforming. In the late afternoon, the sun came out, and topped my batteries up to 100%. We decide to cook something in the oven at 1730, and the batteries crashed back down to 75%, and the inverter held it there till 20h, using grid during this time.

Ok, so first a summary of my setup:
8 kW Sunsynk inverter 2 x 5kWh Greenrich WM5000 wall mount batteries 10 x 555W Longi panels, for a peak of 5.5kW nameplate capacity. All my circuits are connected on the essentials (UPS) side, except for the geyser, which is connected to the Aux output. Although I am considering moving it over to the main UPS output as well. Battery Mode:
No screenshot, but the only interesting thing there is I have "Grid Charge" enabled. So that I can authorize my inverter to charge the batteries from the grid under extreme conditions (see below).
Work Mode: System 1:

Some general notes:
"Use Timer" is enabled, otherwise all the settings on this screen is ignored.  The SOC column determines the lowest allowable SOC before the inverter will switch over to grid mode. If there is no grid, the inverter will continue using battery, even if it goes below the setting for that time slot If you have either the "Grid" or "GEN" columns ticked, then the inverter will charge the battery from the grid/generator up to the SOC value. This will only happen if your battery SOC is less than the setting for that time slot. My reasoning for these settings
I never want my battery SOC to dip below 50%. This is because we often have loadshedding in the mornings before the sun comes up, and that's when I want to use my coffee machine. With my house's load it's easy to completely drain my batteries in a single night, which results in me being without power in the early morning before my PV starts producing.  The side effect of this is that my inverter regularly switches over to grid from midnight-ish till about 07h when the PV starts generating. I buy about 1-3 kWh eskom power every day.  A 3rd battery will take away this problem, because then I'll have more than enough capacity to last me through the night, but at R30k, just to save R10/day it's not worth it. From 10h-16h I require my batteries to be at least 75%. My assumption is that with good sun, my batteries should be at 100% before noon every day, regardless of how much they have drained the night before. Between 16h-20h I also require the 75% limit, BUT, I authorize my inverter to use grid during this slot if the batteries are not up to spec. This only happens under serious inclement weather, which happens about 10 days out of the year in Pretoria. The timeslot for this grid charge event is 4 hours long, so that if I were to be loadshat during this slot, I'll have some power either side of the loadshedding event to charge batteries. Our area rarely start loadsedding at 16h. it's either 15h, or 18h. I don't want to be caught off guard with a flat battery during loadshedding and rainy weather. If my batteries are at 75% by 20h, I have enough remaining energy to last me through the night till dawn (usually). During 20h-01h I lower the SOC limit to 50%, because that's typically where the battery will be anyway.  Grid charge is also on here, in case I dipped lower than that and I need to make sure I have enough juice left for the aforementioned coffee machine the next morning. Work Mode: System 2

I honestly can't figure out how the "Zero Export" series of checkboxes work. This is how my installer set it up, and it works, so I leave it like this. I don't export to the grid, and I don't have non-essentials connected. So no need to fiddle with it.
What is important to note, is I have "Priority Load" set to OFF. This means "Priority Battery" is ON. What this means is that when my battery SOC is less than whatever SOC if have set in the timer table under "System 1", then the inverter will send ALL the PV power to the battery. When this happens, the inverter uses grid to power the load. If there is no grid, then this setting is ignored and the load is powered, and remaining PV is sent to the batteries.
Remember, the "Load" output on the inverter is a UPS output. So the inverter will do everything in its power to ensure it remains on at all times. 
Aux Load

I'm not really using my Aux load as an aux load anymore, but my geyser is connected to it. I did not want to redo my wiring so I set everything to 0 to essentially force the Aux output to function identically to the UPS output (i.e. always on).
Do you want me to explain how this screen and its settings work, so that you can use it for your pool pump, or are you familiar with how it works already?
Geyser
I recently installed a Geyserwise TSE timer, and I have it setup as follows, to help me better manage things:
The four temperature blocks I have set as 00h00 - 06h00: 45C 06h00 - 12h00: 50C 12h00 - 18h00: 75C 18h00 - 24h00: 45C For the Timer, I have 2 blocks enabled: 10h30 - 17h00: This is the main heating period. I assume my batteries are full by this time (they normally are), so I have more than enough excess solar to then "charge" my geyser. You'll notice this "on" period goes up to 75C. So I make my geyser as hot as it'll go from the sun, as I see the geyser as another battery. During the days of inclement weather, I need to basically monitor things, and then maybe when I hit 50C or whatever I switch the geyserwise off with the keypad. With inclement weather it's likely I'll heat the geyser from the grid, so no need to then make it hot as hell.  04h30 - 05h00: This is a short period of boost, before my morning ablutions. Just to make sure there is some hot water. This is especially important if someone took a bath the night before, or if the geyser did not get up to max temperature. Often, because of my battery SOC settings, this boost will draw from the batteries or from the grid, depending on where my SOC is at that time. 30 minutes on my geyser is 1kWh, 10% of my battery capacity, or about R2, so not that bad. This boost does not happen every day, if we took showers the night before, then it's still well above 45C the next morning a lekker hot shower. Note: I installed a 2kW element. Originally I had a 4kW element installed. 2kW is small enough that it will not overwhelm my PV production. So I will almost always heat my geyser from PV, unless it's the early morning boost, or when there is inclement weather during the day.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but breakers don't break on voltage, they break on current? 

A 400V breaker that's subjected to 500V won't break, it'll burn.

Ok, so first a summary of my setup:
8 kW Sunsynk inverter 2 x 5kWh Greenrich WM5000 wall mount batteries 10 x 555W Longi panels, for a peak of 5.5kW nameplate capacity. All my circuits are connected on the essentials (UPS) side, except for the geyser, which is connected to the Aux output. Although I am considering moving it over to the main UPS output as well. Battery Mode:
No screenshot, but the only interesting thing there is I have "Grid Charge" enabled. So that I can authorize my inverter to charge the batteries from the grid under extreme conditions (see below).
Work Mode: System 1:

Some general notes:
"Use Timer" is enabled, otherwise all the settings on this screen is ignored.  The SOC column determines the lowest allowable SOC before the inverter will switch over to grid mode. If there is no grid, the inverter will continue using battery, even if it goes below the setting for that time slot If you have either the "Grid" or "GEN" columns ticked, then the inverter will charge the battery from the grid/generator up to the SOC value. This will only happen if your battery SOC is less than the setting for that time slot. My reasoning for these settings
I never want my battery SOC to dip below 50%. This is because we often have loadshedding in the mornings before the sun comes up, and that's when I want to use my coffee machine. With my house's load it's easy to completely drain my batteries in a single night, which results in me being without power in the early morning before my PV starts producing.  The side effect of this is that my inverter regularly switches over to grid from midnight-ish till about 07h when the PV starts generating. I buy about 1-3 kWh eskom power every day.  A 3rd battery will take away this problem, because then I'll have more than enough capacity to last me through the night, but at R30k, just to save R10/day it's not worth it. From 10h-16h I require my batteries to be at least 75%. My assumption is that with good sun, my batteries should be at 100% before noon every day, regardless of how much they have drained the night before. Between 16h-20h I also require the 75% limit, BUT, I authorize my inverter to use grid during this slot if the batteries are not up to spec. This only happens under serious inclement weather, which happens about 10 days out of the year in Pretoria. The timeslot for this grid charge event is 4 hours long, so that if I were to be loadshat during this slot, I'll have some power either side of the loadshedding event to charge batteries. Our area rarely start loadsedding at 16h. it's either 15h, or 18h. I don't want to be caught off guard with a flat battery during loadshedding and rainy weather. If my batteries are at 75% by 20h, I have enough remaining energy to last me through the night till dawn (usually). During 20h-01h I lower the SOC limit to 50%, because that's typically where the battery will be anyway.  Grid charge is also on here, in case I dipped lower than that and I need to make sure I have enough juice left for the aforementioned coffee machine the next morning. Work Mode: System 2

I honestly can't figure out how the "Zero Export" series of checkboxes work. This is how my installer set it up, and it works, so I leave it like this. I don't export to the grid, and I don't have non-essentials connected. So no need to fiddle with it.
What is important to note, is I have "Priority Load" set to OFF. This means "Priority Battery" is ON. What this means is that when my battery SOC is less than whatever SOC if have set in the timer table under "System 1", then the inverter will send ALL the PV power to the battery. When this happens, the inverter uses grid to power the load. If there is no grid, then this setting is ignored and the load is powered, and remaining PV is sent to the batteries.
Remember, the "Load" output on the inverter is a UPS output. So the inverter will do everything in its power to ensure it remains on at all times. 
Aux Load

I'm not really using my Aux load as an aux load anymore, but my geyser is connected to it. I did not want to redo my wiring so I set everything to 0 to essentially force the Aux output to function identically to the UPS output (i.e. always on).
Do you want me to explain how this screen and its settings work, so that you can use it for your pool pump, or are you familiar with how it works already?
Geyser
I recently installed a Geyserwise TSE timer, and I have it setup as follows, to help me better manage things:
The four temperature blocks I have set as 00h00 - 06h00: 45C 06h00 - 12h00: 50C 12h00 - 18h00: 75C 18h00 - 24h00: 45C For the Timer, I have 2 blocks enabled: 10h30 - 17h00: This is the main heating period. I assume my batteries are full by this time (they normally are), so I have more than enough excess solar to then "charge" my geyser. You'll notice this "on" period goes up to 75C. So I make my geyser as hot as it'll go from the sun, as I see the geyser as another battery. During the days of inclement weather, I need to basically monitor things, and then maybe when I hit 50C or whatever I switch the geyserwise off with the keypad. With inclement weather it's likely I'll heat the geyser from the grid, so no need to then make it hot as hell.  04h30 - 05h00: This is a short period of boost, before my morning ablutions. Just to make sure there is some hot water. This is especially important if someone took a bath the night before, or if the geyser did not get up to max temperature. Often, because of my battery SOC settings, this boost will draw from the batteries or from the grid, depending on where my SOC is at that time. 30 minutes on my geyser is 1kWh, 10% of my battery capacity, or about R2, so not that bad. This boost does not happen every day, if we took showers the night before, then it's still well above 45C the next morning a lekker hot shower. Note: I installed a 2kW element. Originally I had a 4kW element installed. 2kW is small enough that it will not overwhelm my PV production. So I will almost always heat my geyser from PV, unless it's the early morning boost, or when there is inclement weather during the day.

So in summary, on a normal day like today, with lots of sunshine:

Some things to note:
Not sure what that 01h00 spike is. Need to figure that one out.  The 04h30 geyser boost took place, and pulled from the batteries because the grid was off. This is not ideal, a cooler shower is preferable imo, but there is no way for me to avoid this, unless I wake up at 04h30 to switch off the geyser. Batteries were fully charged by 10h30. The coffee machine morning spike came from the grid, because the batteries were <50% SOC at this time, so the inverter did not allow it to go lower.  The spikes you see above the geyser's 2kW draw include the dishwasher, washing machine and other things like kettles.  15h50 spike was the airfryer, lunch. On a less than nice day, where it's either raining the whole day or cloudy, things might look like this:

Notes:
Geyser still comes on in it's given time slot (hot showers are important!), but now the inverter uses a blend of solar and grid to do that, because there is not enough PV do it alone. The inverter brings the battery up to 75% as per my settings, and uses grid in this time to power other loads. Once it's at 75% it stays there, and uses grid to power my loads, as I had a massive rain storm at this time and PV was uncerperforming. In the late afternoon, the sun came out, and topped my batteries up to 100%. We decide to cook something in the oven at 1730, and the batteries crashed back down to 75%, and the inverter held it there till 20h, using grid during this time.

So in summary, on a normal day like today, with lots of sunshine:

Some things to note:
Not sure what that 01h00 spike is. Need to figure that one out.  The 04h30 geyser boost took place, and pulled from the batteries because the grid was off. This is not ideal, a cooler shower is preferable imo, but there is no way for me to avoid this, unless I wake up at 04h30 to switch off the geyser. Batteries were fully charged by 10h30. The coffee machine morning spike came from the grid, because the batteries were <50% SOC at this time, so the inverter did not allow it to go lower.  The spikes you see above the geyser's 2kW draw include the dishwasher, washing machine and other things like kettles.  15h50 spike was the airfryer, lunch. On a less than nice day, where it's either raining the whole day or cloudy, things might look like this:

Notes:
Geyser still comes on in it's given time slot (hot showers are important!), but now the inverter uses a blend of solar and grid to do that, because there is not enough PV do it alone. The inverter brings the battery up to 75% as per my settings, and uses grid in this time to power other loads. Once it's at 75% it stays there, and uses grid to power my loads, as I had a massive rain storm at this time and PV was uncerperforming. In the late afternoon, the sun came out, and topped my batteries up to 100%. We decide to cook something in the oven at 1730, and the batteries crashed back down to 75%, and the inverter held it there till 20h, using grid during this time.

that was a good solid read and answered so many of my questions on setting up of my inverter....kudos to you. 

So in summary, on a normal day like today, with lots of sunshine:

Some things to note:
Not sure what that 01h00 spike is. Need to figure that one out.  The 04h30 geyser boost took place, and pulled from the batteries because the grid was off. This is not ideal, a cooler shower is preferable imo, but there is no way for me to avoid this, unless I wake up at 04h30 to switch off the geyser. Batteries were fully charged by 10h30. The coffee machine morning spike came from the grid, because the batteries were <50% SOC at this time, so the inverter did not allow it to go lower.  The spikes you see above the geyser's 2kW draw include the dishwasher, washing machine and other things like kettles.  15h50 spike was the airfryer, lunch. On a less than nice day, where it's either raining the whole day or cloudy, things might look like this:

Notes:
Geyser still comes on in it's given time slot (hot showers are important!), but now the inverter uses a blend of solar and grid to do that, because there is not enough PV do it alone. The inverter brings the battery up to 75% as per my settings, and uses grid in this time to power other loads. Once it's at 75% it stays there, and uses grid to power my loads, as I had a massive rain storm at this time and PV was uncerperforming. In the late afternoon, the sun came out, and topped my batteries up to 100%. We decide to cook something in the oven at 1730, and the batteries crashed back down to 75%, and the inverter held it there till 20h, using grid during this time.

Ok, so first a summary of my setup:
8 kW Sunsynk inverter 2 x 5kWh Greenrich WM5000 wall mount batteries 10 x 555W Longi panels, for a peak of 5.5kW nameplate capacity. All my circuits are connected on the essentials (UPS) side, except for the geyser, which is connected to the Aux output. Although I am considering moving it over to the main UPS output as well. Battery Mode:
No screenshot, but the only interesting thing there is I have "Grid Charge" enabled. So that I can authorize my inverter to charge the batteries from the grid under extreme conditions (see below).
Work Mode: System 1:

Some general notes:
"Use Timer" is enabled, otherwise all the settings on this screen is ignored.  The SOC column determines the lowest allowable SOC before the inverter will switch over to grid mode. If there is no grid, the inverter will continue using battery, even if it goes below the setting for that time slot If you have either the "Grid" or "GEN" columns ticked, then the inverter will charge the battery from the grid/generator up to the SOC value. This will only happen if your battery SOC is less than the setting for that time slot. My reasoning for these settings
I never want my battery SOC to dip below 50%. This is because we often have loadshedding in the mornings before the sun comes up, and that's when I want to use my coffee machine. With my house's load it's easy to completely drain my batteries in a single night, which results in me being without power in the early morning before my PV starts producing.  The side effect of this is that my inverter regularly switches over to grid from midnight-ish till about 07h when the PV starts generating. I buy about 1-3 kWh eskom power every day.  A 3rd battery will take away this problem, because then I'll have more than enough capacity to last me through the night, but at R30k, just to save R10/day it's not worth it. From 10h-16h I require my batteries to be at least 75%. My assumption is that with good sun, my batteries should be at 100% before noon every day, regardless of how much they have drained the night before. Between 16h-20h I also require the 75% limit, BUT, I authorize my inverter to use grid during this slot if the batteries are not up to spec. This only happens under serious inclement weather, which happens about 10 days out of the year in Pretoria. The timeslot for this grid charge event is 4 hours long, so that if I were to be loadshat during this slot, I'll have some power either side of the loadshedding event to charge batteries. Our area rarely start loadsedding at 16h. it's either 15h, or 18h. I don't want to be caught off guard with a flat battery during loadshedding and rainy weather. If my batteries are at 75% by 20h, I have enough remaining energy to last me through the night till dawn (usually). During 20h-01h I lower the SOC limit to 50%, because that's typically where the battery will be anyway.  Grid charge is also on here, in case I dipped lower than that and I need to make sure I have enough juice left for the aforementioned coffee machine the next morning. Work Mode: System 2

I honestly can't figure out how the "Zero Export" series of checkboxes work. This is how my installer set it up, and it works, so I leave it like this. I don't export to the grid, and I don't have non-essentials connected. So no need to fiddle with it.
What is important to note, is I have "Priority Load" set to OFF. This means "Priority Battery" is ON. What this means is that when my battery SOC is less than whatever SOC if have set in the timer table under "System 1", then the inverter will send ALL the PV power to the battery. When this happens, the inverter uses grid to power the load. If there is no grid, then this setting is ignored and the load is powered, and remaining PV is sent to the batteries.
Remember, the "Load" output on the inverter is a UPS output. So the inverter will do everything in its power to ensure it remains on at all times. 
Aux Load

I'm not really using my Aux load as an aux load anymore, but my geyser is connected to it. I did not want to redo my wiring so I set everything to 0 to essentially force the Aux output to function identically to the UPS output (i.e. always on).
Do you want me to explain how this screen and its settings work, so that you can use it for your pool pump, or are you familiar with how it works already?
Geyser
I recently installed a Geyserwise TSE timer, and I have it setup as follows, to help me better manage things:
The four temperature blocks I have set as 00h00 - 06h00: 45C 06h00 - 12h00: 50C 12h00 - 18h00: 75C 18h00 - 24h00: 45C For the Timer, I have 2 blocks enabled: 10h30 - 17h00: This is the main heating period. I assume my batteries are full by this time (they normally are), so I have more than enough excess solar to then "charge" my geyser. You'll notice this "on" period goes up to 75C. So I make my geyser as hot as it'll go from the sun, as I see the geyser as another battery. During the days of inclement weather, I need to basically monitor things, and then maybe when I hit 50C or whatever I switch the geyserwise off with the keypad. With inclement weather it's likely I'll heat the geyser from the grid, so no need to then make it hot as hell.  04h30 - 05h00: This is a short period of boost, before my morning ablutions. Just to make sure there is some hot water. This is especially important if someone took a bath the night before, or if the geyser did not get up to max temperature. Often, because of my battery SOC settings, this boost will draw from the batteries or from the grid, depending on where my SOC is at that time. 30 minutes on my geyser is 1kWh, 10% of my battery capacity, or about R2, so not that bad. This boost does not happen every day, if we took showers the night before, then it's still well above 45C the next morning a lekker hot shower. Note: I installed a 2kW element. Originally I had a 4kW element installed. 2kW is small enough that it will not overwhelm my PV production. So I will almost always heat my geyser from PV, unless it's the early morning boost, or when there is inclement weather during the day.

Don't we all 😂
I would strongly advise you move your pool pump to the Aux output, unless you are already using it as a generator input. You can configure the Aux output to come on when the batteries are full, and when there is sufficient solar (i.e. don't dip into battery capacity). Your pool will survive a day or two without the pump running. If you can't do this, at the least set your timer to only run the pool at noon for a couple of hours. A pool pump can eat a lot of power, and running it in the evening will eat your batteries.
Remember, anything that runs when the sun is not shining must get power either from your batteries, or from the grid. You don't want a situation where your pool pump running means you can't use your airfryer for dinner because the batteries are flat, and it's loadshedding.
I will post later this afternoon a detailed description of how my setup is configured, with pictures for you. I don't have the time right now. We have very similar setups, sans the pool. 
The reality is that you will have to manage your big loads, and when the weather is really bad, you'll have to manually intervene here and there.

So in summary, on a normal day like today, with lots of sunshine:

Some things to note:
Not sure what that 01h00 spike is. Need to figure that one out.  The 04h30 geyser boost took place, and pulled from the batteries because the grid was off. This is not ideal, a cooler shower is preferable imo, but there is no way for me to avoid this, unless I wake up at 04h30 to switch off the geyser. Batteries were fully charged by 10h30. The coffee machine morning spike came from the grid, because the batteries were <50% SOC at this time, so the inverter did not allow it to go lower.  The spikes you see above the geyser's 2kW draw include the dishwasher, washing machine and other things like kettles.  15h50 spike was the airfryer, lunch. On a less than nice day, where it's either raining the whole day or cloudy, things might look like this:

Notes:
Geyser still comes on in it's given time slot (hot showers are important!), but now the inverter uses a blend of solar and grid to do that, because there is not enough PV do it alone. The inverter brings the battery up to 75% as per my settings, and uses grid in this time to power other loads. Once it's at 75% it stays there, and uses grid to power my loads, as I had a massive rain storm at this time and PV was uncerperforming. In the late afternoon, the sun came out, and topped my batteries up to 100%. We decide to cook something in the oven at 1730, and the batteries crashed back down to 75%, and the inverter held it there till 20h, using grid during this time.

Ok, so first a summary of my setup:
8 kW Sunsynk inverter 2 x 5kWh Greenrich WM5000 wall mount batteries 10 x 555W Longi panels, for a peak of 5.5kW nameplate capacity. All my circuits are connected on the essentials (UPS) side, except for the geyser, which is connected to the Aux output. Although I am considering moving it over to the main UPS output as well. Battery Mode:
No screenshot, but the only interesting thing there is I have "Grid Charge" enabled. So that I can authorize my inverter to charge the batteries from the grid under extreme conditions (see below).
Work Mode: System 1:

Some general notes:
"Use Timer" is enabled, otherwise all the settings on this screen is ignored.  The SOC column determines the lowest allowable SOC before the inverter will switch over to grid mode. If there is no grid, the inverter will continue using battery, even if it goes below the setting for that time slot If you have either the "Grid" or "GEN" columns ticked, then the inverter will charge the battery from the grid/generator up to the SOC value. This will only happen if your battery SOC is less than the setting for that time slot. My reasoning for these settings
I never want my battery SOC to dip below 50%. This is because we often have loadshedding in the mornings before the sun comes up, and that's when I want to use my coffee machine. With my house's load it's easy to completely drain my batteries in a single night, which results in me being without power in the early morning before my PV starts producing.  The side effect of this is that my inverter regularly switches over to grid from midnight-ish till about 07h when the PV starts generating. I buy about 1-3 kWh eskom power every day.  A 3rd battery will take away this problem, because then I'll have more than enough capacity to last me through the night, but at R30k, just to save R10/day it's not worth it. From 10h-16h I require my batteries to be at least 75%. My assumption is that with good sun, my batteries should be at 100% before noon every day, regardless of how much they have drained the night before. Between 16h-20h I also require the 75% limit, BUT, I authorize my inverter to use grid during this slot if the batteries are not up to spec. This only happens under serious inclement weather, which happens about 10 days out of the year in Pretoria. The timeslot for this grid charge event is 4 hours long, so that if I were to be loadshat during this slot, I'll have some power either side of the loadshedding event to charge batteries. Our area rarely start loadsedding at 16h. it's either 15h, or 18h. I don't want to be caught off guard with a flat battery during loadshedding and rainy weather. If my batteries are at 75% by 20h, I have enough remaining energy to last me through the night till dawn (usually). During 20h-01h I lower the SOC limit to 50%, because that's typically where the battery will be anyway.  Grid charge is also on here, in case I dipped lower than that and I need to make sure I have enough juice left for the aforementioned coffee machine the next morning. Work Mode: System 2

I honestly can't figure out how the "Zero Export" series of checkboxes work. This is how my installer set it up, and it works, so I leave it like this. I don't export to the grid, and I don't have non-essentials connected. So no need to fiddle with it.
What is important to note, is I have "Priority Load" set to OFF. This means "Priority Battery" is ON. What this means is that when my battery SOC is less than whatever SOC if have set in the timer table under "System 1", then the inverter will send ALL the PV power to the battery. When this happens, the inverter uses grid to power the load. If there is no grid, then this setting is ignored and the load is powered, and remaining PV is sent to the batteries.
Remember, the "Load" output on the inverter is a UPS output. So the inverter will do everything in its power to ensure it remains on at all times. 
Aux Load

I'm not really using my Aux load as an aux load anymore, but my geyser is connected to it. I did not want to redo my wiring so I set everything to 0 to essentially force the Aux output to function identically to the UPS output (i.e. always on).
Do you want me to explain how this screen and its settings work, so that you can use it for your pool pump, or are you familiar with how it works already?
Geyser
I recently installed a Geyserwise TSE timer, and I have it setup as follows, to help me better manage things:
The four temperature blocks I have set as 00h00 - 06h00: 45C 06h00 - 12h00: 50C 12h00 - 18h00: 75C 18h00 - 24h00: 45C For the Timer, I have 2 blocks enabled: 10h30 - 17h00: This is the main heating period. I assume my batteries are full by this time (they normally are), so I have more than enough excess solar to then "charge" my geyser. You'll notice this "on" period goes up to 75C. So I make my geyser as hot as it'll go from the sun, as I see the geyser as another battery. During the days of inclement weather, I need to basically monitor things, and then maybe when I hit 50C or whatever I switch the geyserwise off with the keypad. With inclement weather it's likely I'll heat the geyser from the grid, so no need to then make it hot as hell.  04h30 - 05h00: This is a short period of boost, before my morning ablutions. Just to make sure there is some hot water. This is especially important if someone took a bath the night before, or if the geyser did not get up to max temperature. Often, because of my battery SOC settings, this boost will draw from the batteries or from the grid, depending on where my SOC is at that time. 30 minutes on my geyser is 1kWh, 10% of my battery capacity, or about R2, so not that bad. This boost does not happen every day, if we took showers the night before, then it's still well above 45C the next morning a lekker hot shower. Note: I installed a 2kW element. Originally I had a 4kW element installed. 2kW is small enough that it will not overwhelm my PV production. So I will almost always heat my geyser from PV, unless it's the early morning boost, or when there is inclement weather during the day.

Don't we all 😂
I would strongly advise you move your pool pump to the Aux output, unless you are already using it as a generator input. You can configure the Aux output to come on when the batteries are full, and when there is sufficient solar (i.e. don't dip into battery capacity). Your pool will survive a day or two without the pump running. If you can't do this, at the least set your timer to only run the pool at noon for a couple of hours. A pool pump can eat a lot of power, and running it in the evening will eat your batteries.
Remember, anything that runs when the sun is not shining must get power either from your batteries, or from the grid. You don't want a situation where your pool pump running means you can't use your airfryer for dinner because the batteries are flat, and it's loadshedding.
I will post later this afternoon a detailed description of how my setup is configured, with pictures for you. I don't have the time right now. We have very similar setups, sans the pool. 
The reality is that you will have to manage your big loads, and when the weather is really bad, you'll have to manually intervene here and there.

But then in another video he says the inverter has an overvoltage cutout of 520V. I have my salt-shaker next to me when I watch his videos 😂 

I've been participating quite regularly on the forum for a short while now, but earlier this week I finally got my setup installed and comissioned.
Some information:
Sunsynk 8kW Inverter 2 X Greenrich WM5000 wall mount batteries 10 X Longi 555W panels, all facing north. I was originally planning on going 6+6, with one string facing north and another facing east/west due to size constraints on my north-facing roof. But the installers managed to fit 10 on the north facing roof alone, and we reckoned 10 facing north is better than 6 facing north and 6 facing east/west. I was considering buying 8 more, and put another 10 on the other roof so that I can use the other MPPT as well, but that might come in the future, pending my actual usage patterns.
Solar generation is good so far, and in fact it seems over specced. On sunny days I have this large notch in the middle of my PV graph. The batteries are recharged by 10h, and the rest of the day's loads are quite low. 
I have my geyser connected to the inverter Aux port, as a semi-critical load. I'm still playing around with the settings to find the most optimal configuration, but so far it seems like it's working. I've made another post explaining how I set things up. I reduced the geyser element to 2kW, so that when it runs it can run 100% off solar. I don't want to cycle my batteries during the day for hot water. The geyser thermostat is also set as high as it can go, so that it can act like a thermal battery of sorts, taking up more of that sunshine if the rest of my loads don't call for it.
Total outlay was just north of R200k. I purchased the expensive equipment myself (inverter+batteries+pv), and contracted an installer to do the actual installation for me.

Never said you were lying, it's just important that we know where you are, and whom you are paying. Puts a lot of things in context. I realize now that my all-caps "HAVE" came across poorly. Sorry about that.
Also, we don't have the R55 flat rate charge, but you get R0.80 per kWh that you sell back. I would happily pay R55/month, and be able to sell my excess PV back! You are the lucky one! 😂

Here is a graph of a typical day's solar production for me. My array is 5.5kW peak. 


 
In a nutshell, when the batteries are full, and the geyser is done doing its thing, then solar production falls off a cliff because there is nothing else drawing any significant amounts of power. 
PV array can't continue producing kilowatts if there is nothing using any power.

Again, @Eurard, you HAVE to qualify statements like this either with proof, or at least indicate which council is invoicing you. 
I'm with Tshwane (COT), and I pay no surcharge. I get exactly the amount I pay for. In fact, before I had solar, my second purchase for the month would result in less units, because my unit cost goes up, the more I buy.
In Tshwane, the electricity costs are identical for pre- and postpaid customers, according to the following sliding scale, monthly:
0 - 100kWh = 209.70c / kWh 101 - 400kWh = 245.41c / kWh 401 - 650kWh = 267.38c / kWh >650kWh = 288.24c / kWh SOURCE: https://www.tshwane.gov.za/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?juwpfisadmin=false&action=wpfd&task=file.download&wpfd_category_id=266&wpfd_file_id=28726 section A, paragraph 1.1
Interestingly, for water, we pay a "network access charge", which is a flat rate regardless of monthly consumption. For the consumption part, we also pay on a sliding scale, the more you consume, the more it costs. There is a second dimension, for water restrictions. The higher the restrictions, the higher the unit cost. The "network access charge" is R141.70.
SOURCE: https://www.tshwane.gov.za/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?juwpfisadmin=false&action=wpfd&task=file.download&wpfd_category_id=266&wpfd_file_id=28722 section B paragraph (a) and (b). 
Note: These costs are for the FY 1 Jul '22 to 30 Jun '23. So it's going to change in 2 months, but more than likely the costs are only changing, and the structure remains the same. 
 
 
PS. See how I backed my claims with actual evidence, straight from the horse's mouth 😉