Flouw

will these work with the small 720w Mecer inverters?

@SEGEN SOLAR my question is regarding the Kodak OG6.2 Plus it is described as an inverter with dual/twin outputs. i cant seem to find any information as to how many kw can each output take?

i stumbled apon your post as im also looking at one of these units. the Dual output just makes more sense to me. then you can use ALL the PV even when utility is out. and it has smart load management when night time load shedding occurs, and dont want to kill the batteries. so ill answer what i can/think. and perhaps someone else are willing to point out my stupidity. 1) Inverter noise - im in the same boat also owning a Mecer unit currently, the new inverter fan i do believe this is due to the SUB function, as its not using DC to DC converter anymore. the buzzing noise i cant comment on, as i dont know. as i have not bought my new unit as yet. 2) Odd charging/floating cycle - this could be due to settings. is utility set as primary charge at this point? and since you are getting weird info from the battery BMS and inverter. what is the battery type set as currently? 4) Constant drain of batteries while on Eskom supply - again, you need to provide current settings. 5) SOC control of non-essential load sort of works - since your battery voltage is running low, it might be that it dips below 95% once the grid fails. see if you drop that % lower, if the correct process happens. im going out on a limb here, and im sure i will have the very same issue once i get going with the new inverter. i need to save up for the send battery still, or a replacement 48v.

I have a document from esener stating bulk should be at 28.4v float at 27.2v. According to them cut off was at 29.2v. Ive also mailed them and phoned them to ask at what voltage does the BMS start balancing. But they could not tell me. He just kept saying the BMS is always balancing. So im still in the dark.

I have to ask. Isnt the 29.2v a little high for the esener battery? LI does not want to live there.

has this inverter been sold as yet?

connect the external MPPT directly to the battery. is that a 3kw model with only 36v voltage range? doesnt sound right. is it a 24V model inverter?

hi. not sure where to post this, as its a weird question. and im open for weird answers. BUT... can i connect DC power (voltage will not exceed VDC Max) to the PV input of my 24V inverter.

thank you. but the CT function is missing. what i would like: either a 24v inverter with CT. that way i can keep the essentials connected to the inverter, and excess PV feed back to the non essential side, that way making most of the panels. and night time we only have essentials running during load shedding anyway. OR dual output inverter, essentials one side. non essentials other side. also making most of the panels, but then the inverter needs to be sized properly so everything can be connected to the inverter, and they normally not available in 24v. battery storage is rather expensive, and since 2.54kwh is sufficient to carry the essentials for a 4 hour load shedding. i dont see the need to increase capacity. not trying to get off the grid, but instead use all PV available during the day without oversizing the system. other alternative is to get a grid tie solar inverter, the issue is, the drop off once the grid disappears..... or buy a 5kw inverter that can run without battery, and let that supply the non essential inverter and from there the DB. once the country falls appart completely splash out on a 48v battery. (i have a 24v 3kw Mecer system already, PV capability is just very low, only 600w)

Has anyone found more information on these DNEA inverters? or an supplier? load shedding is getting worse by the day.... even though my battery and inverter is capable of doing the 4 hour outages with ease. the non essentials is the issue. getting laundry done is becoming an issue. again. the battery is able to run the washing machine. but that dips deep into the battery capacity over 4 hours of load shedding.

The specs and interface does look impressive. And it being 24v makes the battery options limited, but much cheaper as a load shedding essential kit aswell. With the benefit of pushing back into non essentials during daytime I have found a video mentioning Sorotec Revo inverter that looks similar. End of the day. All of them comes from China. You can come test it out in my house... hint hint nudge nudge. As ill have to build the kit and test anyway before i move it to the holiday home. And the fact that it can also work without battery. But can add at a later stage makes it even more attractive. Lets hope someone else has more information or experience with mentioned inverter.

Good day all. I stumbled on these inverters. Does anyone know them or recognize the casing from some clone? https://dnea.co.za/product/inverter-xpert-hybrid-solar-24v-parallel-3000w-touchscreen/ Grid tied with CT coil. And it being 24v sounds rather nifty. Im trying to help my parents get a system going at the holiday home. It doesnt have huge power draws. But the power is out alot of time besides load shedding.

Good day all. I stumbled on these inverters. Does anyone know them or recognize the casing from some clone? https://dnea.co.za/product/inverter-xpert-hybrid-solar-24v-parallel-3000w-touchscreen/ Grid tied with CT coil. And it being 24v sounds rather nifty. Im trying to help my parents get a system going at the holiday home. It doesnt have huge power draws. But the power is out alot of time besides load shedding.

contact details please?

I would like to carry the base load during the day through the inverter, otherwise i need to set the inverter to battery first if i have a external charge controller. that will bugger up my backup setup for night time. but i wil definitely go view your posts

Hi Tim. System is treating me well thus far. I have not tried the microwave as yet. But my wife did run the hair dryer for a few minutes to dry the kids hair one evening after bath time. The 4 hour load shedding isnt a problem either. Fridge connected permanently now. Tv and essentials running comfortably. At the end of the 4 hour the battery is reading 26/26.1V. Dipped to 25.8V one evening while some extra computers and playstation etc all was running. Being unaware we had a mssive power outage. I am however looking at another inverter with bigger solar capability. And saw the newer Growcol unit. Also 24v. 3.6kw. But has a massive 4000w solar input capability. Still doing homework on it. Looks like a voltronic copy. Winter is going to have us on our knees with load shedding. So i need to weigh up. Another battery. Or solar panels....

the link to specifications are not working. if you could PM me all the specs, aswell as a contact number please.

if i can add my 2c. the Aux output can be programmed to always be on grid. when there is PV, it will push all the excess PV to the Aux (set the threshold to 0w). IF the grid falls away, and PV still available. it will still provide. set the Aux Load off battery setting to a high number (99%), otherwise it use your battery. from there you can set your geyserwise timer for lower temps at night, and higher temps during the day (i would just stick to a reasonable temp during the day) heat loss becomes stupid the higher the temps. and if you have so much extra PV. perhaps invest in another battery. my personal opinion, you need hot water. period. whether it is sunny, rainy, light or dark. so if there is no sun for the day. you still need hot water by 18:00 to go shower or bath. set the timer to do so. if there is PV, it will heat it. if there isnt, eskom will have to do it. if there is no PV or eskom. well. welcome to south africa. Since you mention you might rent out the property, dont over complicate it. using excess PV to heat the geyser beyond normal temp sounds great. use it for storage... having the same temp water every time i open the hot water tap is actually essential to me. (i have young kids that run their own bath) what you might have to play around with, high or low Watt element. the timer will switch on. regardless. do you want to try and get the water hot as quick as possible, risking drawing some grid power if the PV is too low? or do you want a lower Watt element and have a constant draw the "whole day" and perhaps stay within the PV capabilities. below i list more silly ideas: - geyser plate made with two AC elements, each with heir own thermostat - put your geyser on the Aux output, crank up the temp to 70deg and untick the "always on grid" so only PV will power it. you will have to raise the PV watts. and install a small push trough geyser after the main geyser. if the water is too cold, eskom will heat it. or a smaller size geyser with temps set to minimum acceptable temp.

i think you are misunderstanding. the Growatt, i can install with no battery at all. and it can supply UTI or PV when available to all loads. my second smaller inverter will remain for load shedding on essential loads.

can the Lux power also function without battery?

on this topic, although not answering the original post. IF myself and the neighbor decides to erect a pole/structure on the fence wall with 12/14/16/20 or hundred(this is for argument sake) solar panels (these very same panels will provide shade for his outside patio area by his pool) and we run the PV cables down to the wall with junction box installed. we both tap into this junction box to our own inverters.... can this work?

thank you @Scorp007 for that tip. i have set up an old laptop next to the inverter, plugged into the USB comms. screen shut and monitoring it remotely with chrome's remote desktop. this way i can change settings and see when it is doing what. - i work out of the country, and dont want to bore the wife with these things. i will set up the screen next time so the laptop camera catches the Volt and Amp meter that has been installed by the battery, and work on a photo/video grab option. this is temporary though, as i just want to make sure the batteries are charging as they should. and after that you tend to forget about the setup. i am looking at purchasing a 5 or 8 KVA inverter, and eventually move to 48v, and run everything from the Solar during the day, including the geyser. and when load shedding, with no PV array available, it must tone it down to essentials only. the following inverters comes to mind: Deye, Sunsynk and Growatt. Growatt seems to be up and coming very quickly, and just been hearing good things. ranked at Nr 5 as the most used inverter in 2022, and ranked in the top 10. what i would like to do, purchase the Growatt, connect to AC input, output and PV. excluding the battery. this way i can start harvesting PV during the day, power the whole house, including the smaller 3kva inverter. when load shedding happens, it switches off the non essential items. and the smaller inverter continues doing its thing. during the times with no PV, the larger inverter will continue supplying power in Line mode. (geyser will be put on a timer) this way i can expand on PV as funds become available aswell. WHEN Eskom becomes VERY bad, i can fork out the cash to purchase a large 48v battery. im open for opinions and suggestions

after spending a couple of days fiddling with charging settings, and trying to understand how the charger is working. i started recording volts and amps going into the battery after load shedding. and have graphed it as per attachment. - every 5 minutes, this was painstaking, as i had to get up and go record values at the battery every 5 minutes for 1 hour. the time indicates minutes. bulk charge is set to 28v. although it never reaches that voltage. float is set to 27.4v - and at the end (at 50 minutes) I changed it to 27.6v. utility charge set to 30A. (on 20A it gives a complete different charge curve) still to record and graph it i do believe once i fit panels, the charge curve will change once again. hopefully by end of the month.

Good day i thought ill introduce myself formally, and start a topic so i can add information and experiences on a regular basis. LOADSHEDDING is the main reason/cause for me joining, and the main reason i have a backup system. started off with a small Mecer UPS, fit for a computer with two small 12v batteries that i used to keep the router going. batteries died as they where about 9 years old. then connected them to 2 x 105Ah Royal batteries that was destined to be thrown out as they where past their 50% lifetime (from a massive server UPS system) they lasted for some time, and I wanted to add more batteries, (i had 6 in total) the small UPS did not have the capacity to charge the bigger batteries, as it only has a 2A charging capability. took almost 10 hours to charge the 105Ah batteries after a 2 hour load shedding. purchased a 2400va Mecer LOBO unit. served me well. added 2 more batteries, had to balance charge the batteries every couple of days, as i did not have equal length cables or a Battery balancer connected. My Neighbor's lighty is a sparky, and he helped to connect the inverter to the DB in essential and non essential circuits, and connected the inverter to power lights, TV and router. the setup did very well for about 11 months, when i realized the batteries are deteriorating even further. wanting to install a LifePO4, and knowing the current inverter was not suitable to maintain the battery properly. luck would have it, down the road from me, a friend decided to upgrade his system, as he works from home (IT) and his rigs are power hungry, and load shedding is hampering his work. he offered me the Mecer 3KVA for a reasonable price, including the manuals, invoice and balance of warrantee (purchased from Mustek themselves) purchased the inverted. installed and connected the old 105Ah batteries. next day jumped in to strip out the DB, identify all the circuits and rewire it accordingly. 2 pole breaker to supply the inverter, 2 pole breaker for the supply to the non essential Earth leakage to all essential breakers i dont have a changeover switch. but i am able to isolate the inverted if and when i need to work on it. following week i went out to purchase the Esener LifePo4 battery. since the inverter doesnt have any communication ports, its no use buying a battery with ports. ill just have to monitor the battery myself. no solar panels installed as yet - only have 600W MPPT capability, which should be enough to carry the base load during the day, and charge the batteries a little not to cycle them during load shedding. i have ordered a Junctek shunt/monitor through Amazon. no idea when it will arrive. in the meantime i installed a 100a shunt and Volts/Amp meter from Communica for me to track charging amps going to the battery to try figure out what is happening. i will post my charging findings. aswell as my current settings im playing with in terms of Bulk, Float and equalize.

@charl perhaps connect one panel only, and see if its actually charging then. perhaps the inverter is blocking out everything as its overvoltage. the 90VOC is an absolutely max, and as Coulomb has mentioned on another post, the controller will actually start blocking out below that, and blow up at 80Voc just a test, before forking out money on a new stand alone controler