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EISH! I bought thru the power-store and that's where they sourced from.....EISH!

Would like to know who you contacted to get this done. I've been reading a number of angry complaints on the Sunsynk channel that people couldn't get thru to support to have their machines seen to.

That was the thought that immediately flashed thru my mind - why not just install the relay and allow the installer to pick a setting. Finish and klaar.

Thanks. Will do.

If one has everything on the essential load side does it still make sense to have the earth-neutral bridge because there's basically just one earth and one neutral and they're already bonded on the grid side?

Did you get an answer to this issue? Does anyone know? I've got the same issue now with my own installation. Will check tomorrow if the CT is sitting on the UPS load side and not the feed from the grid. Or did RiazM return his inverter to the supplier and I got given that faulty one instead? ( Yes, I'm that cynical..! )

Did you get an answer to this issue? Does anyone know? I've got the same issue now with my own installation. Will check tomorrow if the CT is sitting on the UPS load side and not the feed from the grid. Or did RiazM return his inverter to the supplier and I got given that faulty one instead? ( Yes, I'm that cynical..! )

Thanks, I think I have found the logical but very expensive way to do it : https://www.mce.co.za/itemdetails/multi-pole-distribution-block-----din-rail-or-bolt-down-mount?category=termination%2Band%2Bwiring%2Baccessories&code=fj63&type=2&access=2&id=B05A21F7-A00E-486A-A326-2D89F7E331A7 This clips into the DIN rail, taking up space but it's the neatest solution for power distribution in the DB Box I've come across.

Given your requirements, I'd much rather go with either 3x10kwh or 2x15.97kwh batteries - Sunsynk or Freedom Won. They are of course massive items but it's so much better with regards to installation of cables and communications. Freedom won actually recommends going with the larger batteries instead of multiple smaller ones. Price wise it might also be cheaper I think. Just my 2-pence. EDIT: The Pylons are just plain Lithium Ion whereas the sunsynk and freedom wons are LiFePo4 technology batteries. I choose the latter for safety reasons. YMMV.

Any follow up photos and comments? Would be good to see what it looks like finally.

I think the whole process and its emphasis needs to be changed. Instead of focusing on the legality of having a piece of paper CoCT should rather concentrate on getting people informed about making safe installations. One has to ask - just which registered professional engineer has the time to go around signing these documents? How many of them are there around to do this in any case - and just who is willing to put their names/reputations at risk? What CoCT should rather do is compile a whole list of guidelines to follow for installation so that all those DIY enthusiasts will make very informed decisions and apply sound principles when doing a design and installation. From what I've seen most people actually want to conform to the written code but examples of implementation are lacking. Only the mentally unstable would want to have an unsafe installation which they'd have to live with. I strongly suggest that CoCT take cognizance of the fact that there is so much demand and just not enough people to go around certifying installations - and who wants and is going to pay for it anyway?

Thank you. Much appreciated. Might be able to save money doing it this way.

Thank you very much. My logic was leaning the other way and was tending to be difficult to figure out. This is definitely something to consider carefully.

What things did you put on essential and what on non-essential? Would like to know as I have the exact setup as yours and still need to install.

I think that would be me asking that question! I have an almost exact copy requirement - SS 8kw, Freedom Won 10/8 and am about to install. I like your idea of sprague within the trunking - so what size trunking are you using? I bought 40x40mm but could easily give it up because of an awkwardness with AC and DC having to cross paths. I see you haven't used an DC Isolator with fuses - are you relying on the breaker in the Freedom Won?. Also - did you permanently bond the earth to neutral on the LOAD side? And the inverter itself - also bonded to the grid earth? Would very much appreciate your response.

Seems like they no longer sell this stuff - one gets redirected and finally end up looking at what is basically normal 40x40mm trunking you can get anywhere...

I see rolls of Solar Cable 25m, 50m, 100m long and am just looking to avoid spending unnecessary money on buying too much cable. So, I'd like to know how much people actually use and what is left over - does it just become a waste? How does one estimate how much one will actually use? I guess it's not too difficult to estimate how much runs from the entry into the roof space to the inverter - but what about between the panels? Thanks in advance for any contribution.

It certainly looks legit. You could check the specs for the panel on the CS website to see if it matches what you have. Then you could check the Open Circuit voltage yourself in full sun to see if it matches up. Good luck.

From where I sit - it seems that once the doodoo hits the fan in public forums, suddenly support appears, especially when the founder makes a direct call. Interesting how things work in this messed up world.

I have tried to find a solution for connecting a parallel wire [that goes off to the inverter input and the change-over switch] to the grid live wire after the main mcb and so far have seen very little satisfactory answers. The ideal solution would be to use a LIVE busbar, same as one would use a Neutral or Earth busbar - but then there's the issue of having to insulate/close off that busbar to prevent accidental contact. The alternative is to force two conductors ( 16mm2 plus 10mm2 ) into the MCB outlet and similarly join them up another set on the change-over switch and the inverter MCB. I suspect this is what most electricians do. The last "solution" would be to use a scruit nut to join 3 16mm2/10mm2 wires together. Neither of the last two solutions seem very attractive ( to the inexperienced, untrained wannabee DIYer). I'd like to know what all those people who have actual workings systems have done (or their installers have done) to resolve this simple issue.

I've seen Jacqalas on utube showing a before and after video wherein he had the earth-neutral bond in first then removed it afterwards. BEFORE removal : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avtYl7-CCAQ AFTER removal : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WElya_jjNHg So having seen another installer doing the same, I think I'll follow suit - at least until I have an actual earth rod or two and feel comfy experimenting with the stuff.

From the latest manual: permanent earth-neutral bond diagram with NOTE to not connect the earth output terminal to the load. But...just why is there a separate earth bar for the case of the inverter? Why not show it connected to the bigger earth bar in the figure?

I like your installation. I have to do something similar also with a freedom battery (smaller though). Just puzzled as to where you put the DC disconnect and fuses for the battery since it's not visible in the photos? Also no disconnect for the panels - using the fuses as switches?

Mmmhhh, I tend to agree with this. I've been agonizing over the MPPT voltage range as well. For the 8kw ( which I'm also planning to use ) the MPPT voltage range is 125-425V which I assume is a WORKING or OPERATING voltage, not the maximum. So for this setup the 10 panels deliver 421V at maximum power but the Current To Voltage curves show that the voltage rises as the current drops (e.g. when the battery is just about full and no other loads are being driven) and it doesn't take much for the operating voltage to go over the 425V value of the MPPT. I am not sure exactly what the consequences will be - in light of the datasheet and installation manual seemingly emphasizing the Max Open Circuit Voltage. As for the maximum open circuit voltage - for 10 panels it is already at 499.5V at 25 degrees. So if the temperature drops even by 5 degrees to 20 degrees the max open circuit voltage will be exceeded (0.3% per degree) . I really think SUD7162 should revisit the installation - just to be on the safe side.

Great show!