LiFePOWER

I've updated mine to the below and still locked at 100A:

An Axpert? I've just maxed out both MPPT strings on my 10kW Kodak and noticing the same behaviour, will only charge to a max of 100A. Setting the current limit higher doesn't do anything. If you turn on extra load in the house it'll pull from the panels but won't use this available power to charge. Can't be BMS limit as they're hooked into Solar Assistant and not the inverter.

Will probably be disliked to death for this and I'm not defending Pylontech, they don't need it and it's actually in my best interests to bash them to hell... BUT From their side, the battery should have been configured correctly and not be allowed to overvolt, the installer should know what they are doing, if they don't it's not Pylontech's fault. They've given the guidelines to follow, if you don't, well... Best analogy I heard was the charge limit voltage is like a car's rpm redline, it'll allow you to go over but you really shouldn't. Then you proceed to rev the engine above the redline constantly and say it's Ford's problem when it blows... The reasoning for allowing it to go over volt and not shutdown is as far as I can tell a customer experience one. Pylon's were initially designed and sold in, let's say, more civilised parts of the world where the people installing actually were trained, accredited and therefore knew what they were doing. 99.9% of the time an OV was just a blip and if the battery cut off, the system goes down, customer has a bad day and Pylontech look bad. So they "ass"umed the same here. Only now down the line once these things have been in the wild west are they seeing the results of cowboy installers. I could tell you some horror stories of electricians who think they know how to install inverters because they're legally allowed to issue a CoC (bonded input and output neutral as well as earth to the chassis anyone?). OP is likely out 28k unfortunately unless they can make enough noise that CNBM, SolarWay or their installer replaces it. If anyone else has Pylons in their setup, put them at around 0.5V below the max charging voltage on the spec sheet and you'll be fine.

Can see from the logs that it was consistently charging at 53.8-54V, max for a Pylontech is 53.5V. Do NOT exceed this ever or they will void your warranty. Voltronics and Victron should be set to 53V max, they have spikes in voltage on charging that'll void the warranty as well. You won't get anywhere disputing the warranty void, this is decided by Pylontech and the local guys have no say, you'll have better luck with the installer asking why he set the voltage to 54. The Pylontech BMS does not trip at 53.5V to protect from this. Pylons are especially susceptible to over voltage swelling because of this and that they only use 15 puch style cells which means the pack needs to be at a lower voltage and they are less resilient than prismatic cells. They are currently developing a new BMS that can bleed off high voltage but this isn't in production yet. No, I can't tell you how I know this.

Got it thanks! For the other people like me out there: Username: solar-assistant Password: Local password

ahem, yes that makes sense... Another stupid question, username? Sorry there's 0 documentation I can find on this.

Just setting up mine, what's the SSH default log in? Can't set the .conf file without SSH'ing into it or can I? ELI5 please, still new at all this.

Can definitely recommend: https://www.solent.co.za/ I don't have the aircool, too rich for my blood, I think Maxima but thing is a beast. For quite and efficient you want more blades and as long as possible.

In a single phase system the Live isn't compared to the Earth but the Neutral of the 3 phase star/delta at the sub station, so even if the neutral bar is removed at the substation it won't cause the above. May do some other damage though on the input side. Inverter output neutral and Eskom neutral should be entirely separated, same as live! Bind your inverter output neutral to either Eskom earth or your spike, never both or Eskom neutral! Or, I know, incoming heresy, let your inverter output neutral float, as long as it's behind an earth leakage it's entirely safe except for the 30cm of wire between the inverter and DB board. Lazy or incompetent installers will tell you otherwise that you can share neutrals between incoming and outgoing from an inverter, you can't! Had one installer who connected inverter output neutral, Eskom incoming neutral AND earth to the CHASSIS OF THE INVERTER and then told me it was the right way to do it.

I was being a bit dramatic with the 30kWh Eskom but it's not far off, that's why reading this thread blew my mind, I am in a fairly unique position though: 4 adults in the house. Eskom: My wife and I take loooong showers My MIL has like a 600L bath FIL showers twice a day Oven cooked meals every other night Housekeeper that loves a hot tap..... Can't wait to get the geysers on solar! Solar: 2kW pond pump that runs all day Pool pump, but that's only a couple hours, 1 now in winter Dishwasher, run everyday Washing machine, run multiple times a weekday Vacuum cleaner, makes a difference when it's 1000m2 of floor Ironing every afternoon, this absolutely destroys PV accumulation 2 fridges Small appliances kettle/toaster/lawn mower/hairdryers/etc/etc/etc, these things EAT electricity 200W+ LED lights all night, no that's not an exaggeration I'm well over 4GWh of solar generation the last 6 months. 45-50kWh is more of a reasonable assumption for the household but that's still nuts considering we don't have any aircons, heaters or tumble dryers.

I'm saying the irradiance is much less than 1000W/m when it's cold in SA which makes using the STC Voc as the limit for installations incorrect. To hit the STC limit you need: Panel temp 25C or below 1000W/m Sun zenith of 45 degrees or higher = AM1.5 Worst case scenario, let's say Sutherland, cold/sunny and be overly cautious: 1. Today 18C and say panels at 20C (remember it's cell temp that matters, not ambient, things in the sun get warm, solar cells especially so), 2C above ambient, NOCT (barely) and STC temp check! 2, 1000W/m, it's mid May and I'm only getting 700W/m in Pretoria, would need a CT forumite to confirm irradiance down that latitude. Again overly cautious and say 700W/m, NOCT irradiance fail, well below STC fail. 3. Zenith 40 degree, NOCT and STC fail. Sutherland lost 45 degree zenith at midday 2 weeks ago, never mind when the panels were cold. Yes it'll get colder but AM/irradiance makes a MUCH bigger difference than temperature to a panels output. To increase irradiance you need to go north in winter. The north of SA loses 45 degree zenith beginning of June, and as it's Musina it's hardly troubling the temperature coefficients. The only place I can think of in SA where it's going to have a zenith of 45 degree, panel temp below 20C and an irradiance of even 800W/m all at the same time would be a severe cold front with a bit of cloud edge in the escarpment above Louis Trichardt in July and that's just the NOCT limit, would have to be 45 degree, 20C and 1000W/m for STC. TLDR: use the nominal operating data (NOCT/NMOT) not the standardised test data (STC) for installation calcs. STC measurements are not feasible in the real world and is basically a marketing gimmick to say a panel is X watts, you'll never approach this. EDIT: and to be clear I'm not saying set your string to a NOCT Voc 2V under the inverter limit, be reasonable, but taking 10%+ of the STC margin "as a rule of thumb" is wasting efficiency, maximising PV voltage is the key, everything else cascades after that.

Yes, but Karoo winter mornings = very cold and quite sunny. Which is where Voc likes to play, even then as above he'll be good with 11.

You're never ever going to get panels below 25C with 1000W/m irradiance in South Africa. It's May and we're down to less than 800 already which is what NOCT (/NMOT, depends on the manufacturer) is measured at, and panels getting this aren't sitting at below 20C either. NOCT open circuit is 35.12V for those panels so 386V for 11, well within the limits. Even NOCT is conservative and you can push the string voltage higher, not that it's recommended though and I'd use NOCT as the actual Voc limit. You also have to consider peak summer days and the max operating voltage of the MPPT, no point pushing Voc to max on a winter day when your MPPT starts clipping in the middle of Dec. Why? The AM value, the only time a panel in South Africa is going to be cold enough to hit even the NOCT Voc value is first thing in the morning after a cold evening in winter, the AM value skyrockets at this time because of the amount of atmosphere the sunlight has to go through (red shifting it and therefore decreasing the irradiance) massively reducing the voltage the panel is producing. NOCT test is at AM1.5, this is at a sun zenith of 45 degrees no minimal dust/pollution, Sutherland (which is where you're most likely to be cold and sunny) loses 45 degree zenith at midday before the beginning of May. TLDR: use NOCT not STC as the limits when calculating string voltages.

I'd wait for others to confirm but I wouldn't worry about it. You're still well under the limit and the chances of getting anywhere close to open circuit voltages is very slim in our climate (unless you live in the middle of the Karoo). In my experience pushing a string as close to the MPPT's max operating voltage as possible is the most efficient way of doing things.

Just the main or the secondary as well? Now to get a USB to serial, just realised I only have USB to RS485 not 232...

These numbers terrify me, my house uses 30kWh Eskom and 25-30kWh solar a DAY! The only things on Eskom are the geysers and stove. System: 10kW Kodak 15x 555W JA and Canadian panels (soon to be 18) 30kWh of my batteries Once I finalise the second string with the 3 more panels the geysers will go on the solar with some home automation trickery I've yet to figure out so should hopefully drop Eskom to nearly zero. Then the wife has promised her 13th cheque to buy a double gas oven, sink gas instant water heater and installation so then will hopefully be at zero.

KODAK OG-10.0 UI8204 MAIN U23503 SECONDARY Yellow with round face, colour display and RGB lights.

Is this an update to 82.06? What's it's number? Compatible with the 35.XX display panel firmware on the Kodaks?

R750

R1000

Item: Growcol 250A Fuse Holder and 2x 250A Fuses Age: New Price: R1250 Payment Method Accepted: EFT Warranty: None Packaging: Original Condition: New Location: PTA East Reason: Extra Shipping: Yes, R140 to major centres Collection: Yes Link: https://eliterenewablesolutions.co.za/products/growcol-2p-battery-fuse-holder-250a? https://eliterenewablesolutions.co.za/products/gc-solar-battery-fuse-250a?

Damn, ok thanks!

Hi Coulomb, I've got a Kodak OG 10kw from the store: https://powerforum-store.co.za/collections/inverters/products/kodak-solar-off-grid-inverter-mksiii-5kw-48v Main CPU version is 82.04 and Secondary is 35.03. Am I correct in saying the below 2 FW are the latest available?: Just confused about going "back" to 22.20 on the display firmware? You also mentioned somewhere (I've been doing a lot of googling) a 291.70 patched main firmware but I can't find it anywhere. Scott [img]https://i.imgur.com/5MOIULL.jpg[/img]