Kory

We currently have an 18-panel solar array split between east-facing and north-west-facing roof sections. In summer, the system performs exceptionally well. Our the 16 kWh battery bank is usually fully charged by around midday, and we're almost completely off-grid. We generate around 1,060 kWh in a good summer month and about 800 kWh in the weaker summer months such as February and September. In short, we don't need any more panels for summer. Winter, however, is a different story. As many Cape Town solar users know, generation drops significantly. Last year our worst month was June at 498 kWh, while May produced 709 kWh and August 777 kWh. Overall, winter generation is roughly 40% lower than peak summer production. We have a garage and granny flat with a north-facing roof that wasn't used in the original installation because the available roof space is much smaller than on the main house. I've been wondering whether it would be worth adding another 6–7 panels there specifically to improve winter generation. The additional panels would probably contribute very little in summer, but then again we have increased doubled our battery capacity so might need extra boost for summer. They may provide a useful boost during winter when the sun is lower and daylight hours are shorter. Has anyone in Cape Town added north-facing panels to an existing east/west or east/north-west system specifically to improve winter production? How much of a difference did it make, and was it worth the investment?

Sorry guys, I need some suppliers (Cape Town area) or reliable online store for Deye stuff. I am looking for 16Kw batteries by 2 and inverter 12 kw 3 phase by 1. Reliable with fast delivery. Any recommendations ?

We are looking to install solar at our holiday place. However, there is a lot of dust and people end up washing their panels quite frequently are there are panels that are more efficient under dusty conditions?

It is actually a 2 burner induction plate that is in the flat. Getting the flat on an independent solar system might be a waste as current setup means when the flat is not in use the main house can use the excess production. I think based on the feedback, thanks so much everyone. The best option is to do the gas switch to move the two main sources of power draw off my back. It will also be helpful in preserving my battery as the main house uses gas and but the flat cooks with electric and so cooking late and early draws from my batteries.

Well if I manage to fit the gas appliances the electric use will minimized so I will not stress too much. The Setup is as follows: There are two electric geyser; one for the main house and the second for the flat. I am not worried about sumner as we barely buy electric with solar. The flat has a sub DB which shares it circuits with the garages. I think garages plugs are on one, garage light on the other, then kitchenette plugs on one the geyser on one, all other plugs one one but all the light are together. The sub db then has a breaker on the main db. I am able to switch off the flat DB if I turn the breaker off in the main house. My issue is not to prevent them from consuming but as much as possible to ensure they pay for their consumption without me needing to intervene. I do not rent consistently and generally most tenants have been easy as I rent to single persons of occasionally a couple. But I have had a few hard nuts.

Yes so microwave and kettle are in the kitchen area and the kitchen area plugs are on one breaker. The microwave is permanently plugged in and well the kettle it will just not make sense to move it. Plus I choose 1000w because I made sure all the kettles in the house do not draw more than a 1000w due to going solar. The question is will the use of anything that draws more than required trip the entire house power or just the power for the flat, it is on a sub db or alternatively it will just not work.

I have a one-bedroom flat attached to my house that I occasionally rent out short-term. We’re fully on solar, which powers both the house and flat well in summer, but in winter we struggle, because both use electric geysers. The main house has a gas stove, but the flat’s electric stove makes it worse when guests cook often. I’m considering renting the flat out longer term and investing about R16,000 to move it partly off the home system. This will mean replacing the geyser and two-burner stove with gas options. I’d provide one 19kg gas bottle at move-in, after which the tenant refills it. My concern is power misuse: a past guest installed their own electric geyser, overloading the system. Is there a way to prevent this? Perhaps a device that limits plug power draw to under 1000W?

We already had a split prepaid meter installed, that is what the letter said.

Done- Used a company to register.

Wow that’s a lot of battery power, it’s at least a full days draw. Congratulations

My installer is becoming the bane of my existence. Does not sound like they ever submitted the application, I take the time and effort to do this myself and they are not giving me the relevant information. All I need is their ECSA number of CoCT eservices they take days to reply only to say they don’t know what it is and that a 3rd party engineer has been submitting their applications. I will also going forward need a testing report from them. I really want to get it done as I am sure the amnesty for not doing it will wall away soon without loadshedding and they might be implications. I also just like to get things done right. How much will it cost to get another electrician to do it and does anyone know someone who does this ? If I have to pay for it I am not using their person.

We have a flawed system in many ways and the flaws were not only in the inability to provide energy to meet the needs of the population but also in how energy is being billed and sold, coupled with all the free loaders and non paying customer. So any adjustments to the system post individuals finding their own fixes feels like a direct attack on them. Together with the fact the municipalities are making selling back to the grid so unattractive for solar users who can it almost feels like you can’t win with solar. Every utility has different types of cost to manage fixed cost - installation, maintenance as well as RnD and the recurring costs. If it needs to function properly billing also has to be segmented along the same lines. Sadly enough every fixed cost or tax system is regressive ie those who use the least pay more. If you want to benefit more from fixed cost just use more. Hopefully with these changes will come more international good practices ie time of use billing and better options for feeding into grid to serve as incentives for pple to adopt renewables.

Wow 78%, folks are not pushing their batteries at all. I drive my battery down to 30% with no loadshedding and 40 when there is loadshedding. The intention is to maximise savings. Hybrid inverters are designed to blend power sources so I can only assume they are can cope with working 24/7.

Hello @TaliaB you have been extremely helpful. Do you know perchance what the ECSA number is for CoCT and what it looks like ? My installer has. Shared several number but doesn’t seem to know what this one number starts with MIE is that the one? I have used the WC number where required.

I can only assume switching off eskom completely eliminates a trickle feed if any. They also mentioned something about not being able to change the settings not sure as I have not used that inverter before but that could be why they do it manually. I am not sure what the effect could be on the switches or if municipality will pick the off and one constantly and have issue but essentially my inverter does this based on settings from 6/7am to about 6pm 98% of my needs are met be solar unless we use the oven in the night.

Thank you so much for the direction. I assume I will only need this after I receive permission to install, I will start engaging him now. For now I have registered for energy services and I am going to go ahead to apply. Since my system is already in place will I just fill like it wasn’t or there is something I need to do to capture the fact that it is already installed ? Also on the website if I am getting the instructions right, I am going straight to the Apply for SSEG section since I am the owner, no need for the proxy section or register a provider section right?

CoCT SSEG Help My installer claims to have submitted a physical application for SSEG (Small-Scale Embedded Generation) and dropped it off, but I have not received any updates or documentation. I also did not sign any authorization or paperwork for this process, so I find it unlikely that this application was made. If I did sign something, I do not recall doing so, and I am confident I wouldn’t forget such a significant step. I am now planning to submit an online application myself, as the installer has become unresponsive, and I want to ensure the process is handled efficiently. Currently, the only document I have from them is the Certificate of Compliance (CoC). Could you guide me on the step-by-step process for submitting an SSEG application? Is there an official thread or resource that explains the process? Additionally, I understand that a system diagram is required for the application. Is there any app or guidance available to create this diagram myself, or would I need to hire someone to prepare it? For context, I do not plan to sell electricity back to the city. In summer, my batteries are usually fully charged by 11 a.m., even with two geysers in use, and they stay charged at 90-95% by 7 p.m., lasting through the night. However, winter is more challenging. My installer mentioned that engineer sign-off is only needed if you plan to sell electricity back to the city. Is this accurate? Finally, are there any other key steps or requirements I should be aware of for this process?

I was about to ask what a lithium battery is lol but just said I should behave.

Yeap you know how it goes, love them but need them out to calibrate my renewable energy system. Perhaps get a plug in hybrid with all that extra summer energy generated as I have no plans of selling to CoCT.

My system based in CT. 2 Deye 5kW inverter 2 Deye 6.14 kWh battery storage making 12.28kWh 18 545w panels in NW and East direction. In winter cuts my bill by 50%, In spring summer etc could be off grid but for a 1 hour geyser run in the morning that uses roughly 3kw. also we are currently 2 households living on my property. Looking forward to next year when it’s just us we will surely be off grid then. Would love one more battery especially with prices this low but I can’t justify until family move out the the flat and I know my real numbers might be an overkill for summer but will definitely help for Cape Town winters.

Many factors including market forces and installers experience and skill level. Even painting quotes tend to vary widely depending on who you ask. If all the quotes are well vetted just go for the cheapest. Supplier prices also vary widely I have seen the Deye 5kW priced anywhere from 14k to 20k.

Mine is in my garage, did not think of the smoke detector. I will do.

We also have this version and the culprits are different.

Since installing solar and a monitoring system I have become very vigilant of electric usage. Especially as we use so much and I can’t understand why. So during the day we can pull as much as 9kW at a go and I always thought it was the period where the 2 geysers overlap with other stuff. So i noticed the person who irons leave the iron on when they take any form of a break. Only noticed this today when they cannot iron in the ironing room so had to come to patio to iron. They go to the bathroom and I realise the iron is on.

I know the battery is the most expensive component and people want it to last longer but I discharge mine to 40% everyday. If it goes will just upgrade no point having a battery that will not be used when loadshedding starts again I will keep more charge.